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Everything posted by Marlowe

  1. That lifter valley cover is too pretty to cover up! It's a gorgeous piece. Well, perhaps it'll still be sign during tear down between rounds!
  2. The most difficult part of the headers has been completed and all that is required now are brackets and some fine tuning. I've also finished the interior bulkhead too. Now I'm putting down the model and going cruising with the big boss to have some fun! Thanks for looking, folks!
  3. Why the paper clip in the first photo? 'Cuz I needed tie rods for the front suspension! I didn't have any in my parts bin and I didn't want to spend the money to buy another model just for those parts so I made scratch built them. Credit for this idea goes to my inspirational diecast modification guru, Chris Moroni. In his modification builds, Chris routinely creatively sources parts out of regular ordinary stuff found around the house. I give him credit for teaching me to do the same. So the paper clips, which is something right out of the "Chris Moroni Book of Diecast Modifications" came in really handy. Thanks, Chris for the inspiration! I needed to get going on building the rest of the interior. However, I couldn't do that until I finalized the engine, transmission, and rear end location. I fabricated engine mounts and now have installed the drivetrain in the sub-frame. That enabled me to understand the location for the engine cover, or "Dog House." I've fabricated the "dog house" out of plastic. So that it will stay secure in its location, I've inserted mini magnets in the floor and the dog house. You can see them in the photos and the concept works great. Still to come is a full bulkhead that fully separates the engine compartment from the interior that still needs to be made. On the original 1:1 Chevoom, Maynard Rupp built a footwell in the front interior wall where he located the throttle and brake pedal. I've started building it here. You can see the tie rods from this angle. Thanks for looking, folks!
  4. I'm awe struck. I lack the words. Simply fantastic!
  5. This is a superb execution in every way. Car, photos, everything! This is a post I'll come back to see again.
  6. My goodness! Now that's impressive! Wow!
  7. Sure. I assume you mean the center of the roof of the cab, right? If so, please look at #5 of the photos in my post. You'll see in the build photos that the B pillar was filled using a piece of scrap metal. The roof area where the cabs are combined was filled with a piece of brass sheet which I cut to size and then bent into place to cover the gap but also join with the new B pillar. It was filled in first with my favorite bonding material, JB Weld epoxy and then automotive body filler putty. It was filed and sanded smooth so the gap disappeared and gave the look that I was going for. You might want to look at my current project of the Maynard Rupp Chevoom funny car. To get the sedan body which the 1:1 car used, I had to get a sedan top. The Chevelle, which was the original car, had a hardtop with the flying buttress C pillar. To get the right look, I removed the top from a '66 Biscayne and attached it to the Chevelle after I cut the top off of it too. The Biscayne top was too wide so I cut it in half and removed 1/2 inch of metal, then attached the two halves back together again. I did a similar operation when I built my Dyno Don Nicholson Comet funny car too. Don't let diecast scare you. A lot of people are in awe of some of my work but I can tell you in all honesty, it is truly undeserved. I'm not doing anything really that hard to do. I'm not a machinist, nor do I have any training. I'm just on old plastic model builder that is just a hacker using simple hand tools. I have my trust Dremel with a lot of carbon blades for cutting and a hacksaw. That's how must of the work is getting done. Dive into diecast and give it a try. I'll bet you'll quickly learn, you can do this!
  8. I've fabricated a roughed out the dashboard and floorboard. The dash was pretty straightforward and simple but the floorboard required three rebuilds. Initially, I failed to factor in enough angle of the ladder chassis and the first two iterations just didn't look right. Much better now. I'll have to do the footwell next and begin on the doghouse too. Before and After Ahhhh, at this point, I'm reminded of Robert Burns' "...the best laid schemes of mice and men." Also, Murphy's Law kicked in too. Originally, to attached the rear end housing to the sub-frame I planned on creating 1:18 scale U-bolts. From MicroMark, I ordered 00-90 rod stock along with other hardware including a threading die. Folks, make no mistake, I am NOT not a machinist. I'm just a hacker using simple hand tools to carry out these builds. I have no machine shop training and I certainly have no clue on how to use CNC machines, drill presses, dies, etc. Now that the appropriate disclaimers (and excuses) are in place, I couldn't get the die to thread the bar stock to form my U-bolts! Arrggh! Frustrated, I gave up on the U-Bolt idea and decided on an entirely different approach. Instead of traditional U-bolts, I'd create brackets to secure the rear end housing to the subframe. Simple, right? After 5 sets, (that's right, count 'em) FIVE SETS and hours of time creating brackets that fit over the housing AND the subframe, I finally got a working, and for me satisfactory solution! OH, BTW! Attaching 00-90 bolts to 00-90 washers and nuts really requires a 1:18 scale person to pull it off! A 1:1 person working with such small pieces is more than a notion! Thank goodness I have tweezers and now it's all buttoned up. As far as I'm concerned, all I need to do is trim up the brackets, and get the whole frame ready for black paint! However, before I do that, I have to fabricate front radius rods. Should be fun!
  9. Thanks for the compliment. The tires are from the 1:16 Highway 61 International wrecker. The wheels were custom ordered and made from a company in Italy that does 3D printing. BTW, working and dealing with that vendor was a nightmare. Although the work was superb, it took him 6 months to complete the work and deliver the wheels.
  10. Ha! Your powers of observation are right on the money! I stole that puppy from the GMP Fairlane! Man, it was hard sacrificing that car too! GMP builds some very nice stuff. BTW, I posted the rest of my builds in the drag racing section. I figured it was more appropriate over there.
  11. I have to create a collar to attach the front suspension. I purchased the ACME Fuel Altered kit that will supply the front axle. The width is perfect and fits the Chevelle without any alterations. Wahoo!!! The front axle and suspension has been mounted for a text fit. The wheelbase is PERFECT! Wahoo AGAIN!!! The Chevoom rear axle has spring towers that are capped to the top of the chassis in the rear. So I fabricated spring towers using brass tubing. When building the Chevoom, Maynard Rupp built a sub-frame which would cradle the entire drivetrain of the engine, transmission, and rear end. It is suspended on pivot points to the main frame. http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee352/marlowemar/Chevy%20Chevelle%20Chevoom/DSC00109g.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC00109g.jpg The Chevoom has a 2-speed automatic Torqueflyte transmission. With the transmissions that I have available, with my buddy Gene Herman's advice, I elected to use a tranny from a Pontiac. Gene suggested I cut the shaft tube and then fashion a plate to the engine. Obviously, it isn't done but it's a start. The engine, tranny, and rear end is test fit to the sub-frame.
  12. There you go! That looks far more accurate now! Well done! Now, it's one to the front wheelwell! The front of the wheelwell opening should be directly behind the front bumper.
  13. As I've mentioned before, 1:18 diecast is my favorite scale. I've had this project in my mind for a few years and I decided to take the plunge to build it. I hope you enjoy the build and thanks for looking!
  14. Thanks for the compliments. All of my modified models that I've posted here are 1:18 scale diecast. There isn't a lot of pieces available on the after market so I have to be creative. Of the modifications that I've posted, Dyno Don Nicholson Comet, Butch Leal Plymouth, Gas Ronda Mustang, Gas Ronda Fantasy Transporter Hauler, and the Yankee Peddler the decals were made by me. I use Photoshop to make the decals and then send the master to a vendor who prints them using an A.L.P.S. printer. The advantage to that type of printer is that it prints white, gold, and silver. Mr. Norm's Dodge didn't require my making decals as I modified an existing model and the decals were already on the car. With the pieces that aren't part of the model, I either scavenge from other models or fabricate myself. For example, the headers and the tonneau cover on Mr. Norm's Dodge were fabricated. However, the Cragar wheels, supercharger, and moon take were scavenged from other 1:18 models.
  15. I love it! I can't wait to hear that puppy on start-up!
  16. I assumed you would have loved my 1971 429 SCJ Ram Air Mach 1 that I owned back in the day. This isn't my actual car but mine was exactly like this one with the exception that mine had white interior.
  17. That's just a really well done and executed model. The stance makes it look like a 1:1.
  18. I use a Dremel with a carbon wheel to cut the diecast. I have two Dremels so I can alternate as when cutting through the thick sections the tool gets very hot. The thin sections it cuts through like a hot knife through butter.
  19. As I mentioned in my previous post, my favorite diecast modification was my Gas Ronda longnose Mustang. I decided it would be a hoot if I had a transporter to match it with. Now unlike my other drag racing modification, that are duplicates of actual racecars, this one never existed. In 1966, the cars were pulled on trailers and sophisticated haulers didn't starting showing up for factory teams until 2 or 3 years later. I used the Don Prudhomme and Tom McEwen 1970 Dodge haulers as my inspiration. It began with the 1965 Ford F100 Pickup.
  20. With all due respect, the factory built cars were not all different. With respect to the altered wheelbase configuration, they were all the same. The front wheels were moved forward 10 inches and the rears were moved forward 15 inches. The Photoshopped photo I supplied him gives the correct location. There were 11 original factory cars and they were subcontracted under Chrysler design and oversight by Amblewagon. Amblewagon was a professional modifier of ambulances and funeral cars. The factory efforts at Amblewagon were the Plymouths of Melrose Missle (the subject of this build), Golden Commandos, Butch Leal, and Lee Smith plus the Dodges of Dick Landy, Ramchargers, Bob Harrop, Dave Strickler, Roger Lindamood, and Bud Faubel. Later, Bill Flynn's Yankee Peddler was received the AWB treatment but was done at the shops of Dick Branstner who was also the builder of the Little Red Wagon. However, you are correct that there were many privateer Mopar altered wheelbase efforts and they were definitely very different from each other.
  21. BTW, please know that I do appreciate the kind comments. Even more, I appreciate having the opportunity to share my models with like minded people who appreciate the work and the hobby! Thank you all!
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