Lindberg 1948 Lincoln Continental front fenders?

[russosborne]

Here is a link to a picture of what I am asking about.

http://www.autoblog.com/used-detail-6550296542999807025-Lincoln-Continental-1948

I tried looking here and only found a couple of mild custom builds. If there has been a stock build of this kit posted please let me know.

I am planning on doing this kit basically out of the box with maybe some under the hood detailing.

My question is the kit front fenders. They are two piece units and will have a seam line running just a bit above the wheel wells the full length of the fender. I have looked online and found many pictures of these cars. It looks to me that there is a bit of a detail line (sorry, brain frt, can't think of proper term) on the real cars right where the seam will be on the model( at least as far as the outer part of the fenders is concerned) So I am thinking about leaving that part of the seam instead of making it look smooth. On the real car it may not be going all the way back. My eyes aren't that great anymore, and I don't have a real car to check out.

Is there anyone who knows anything about these cars who can tell me if I am even close to being right? Or would leaving the seam line be way out of scale?

I would have already started this, but I can't find the stupid glue I have packed away somewhere with the rest of my modeling stuff. Might have to buy new.

Thanks,

Russ

Edited July 18, 2015 by russosborne
added link to picture

[Ace-Garageguy]

Just looked at one still on the trees in the box, and one not-too-bad builtup. The seam appears to be pretty well where the character line is on the real fender, and it also appears the fender-half locating tabs may be engineered to provide a sorta correct 'step' so that the crease will look right when built. Give it careful assembly, try to align the seam so it provides just a small 'step', and it should look great.

[BigTallDad]

Maybe you're talking about fender welting...

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101745-another-use-for-thread/#comment-1421463

[Ace-Garageguy]

The seam you refer to in the OP is obvious on this model in-progress by Chuck Most. You've already noticed it is in roughly the same place as the crease on the fender of the real car. The upper part of the fender stamping is stepped slightly outward relative to the area below the crease. Just try to get the same amount of relative step during assembly.

 

 

Edited July 18, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[russosborne]

Thanks.

Seam is close enough to the right position for me. However with my luck I will accidentally smooth it.

Russ

[Howard Linscott]

The seam is more or less correct as it travels to the trailing edge of the front fenders. BUT the front fenders, and therefore the whole model car, is much too short. The car must be lengthened from the cowl forward, including the hood, if it is to reflect the proportions of the real car. This is a tricky proposition given the compound curves involved, but can be done. First generation Continentals have a wheelbase of 125 inches, so the wheelbase on the model should be exactly 5 inches. This probably means adding at least a quarter of an inch to the fenders and hood, in addition to the  chassis. I would skip the engine compartment and glue the hood shut unless you are making a hotrod. 

If that hasn't discouraged you from building the kit maybe this will. The grille detail ended up on the inside of the piece -- oops! The vertical bars should be recessed behind the horizontal bars. A lot of work with the rat-tail mini file ahead! Note too that the actual car has a surround panel around the lower grille and  a valance panel between the front bumper and body; these are missing in the kit. The headlights are not convincing and don't fit properly. And the rear of the door is too far back. It needs to be re-scribed about an 1/8-inch forward. And all the pieces of the windscreen are too thick and bulky -- some thinning and refitting is necessary. That's what I have found so far. . .

Good luck!

[Mark]

This kit's origins stretch back to 1955.  It was created by Pyro, and was first issued with wheel/tire units made entirely of plastic, and with no plated parts.  It was tweaked in the early Seventies to include plating and vinyl tires (probably adapted from another kit).  If you keep that in mind, the shortcomings are more acceptable.  But it shouldn't have been issued in packaging with only pictures of a 1:1 car, and certainly not at the price of a more modern car kit.