Is it possible to color sand tamiya X-1 acrylic?

[Dpate]

Sorry if this has been posted before, but i couldn't find anything doing a search.  I'm still waiting for the tamiya X-1 to cure, but i ended up getting dust and little bit of orange peel.  I was wondering if it's possible to color sand tamiya acrylic or do i have to clear coat and than proceed with sanding with micro mesh? I've marked the issues in the pictures.  Also used Alclad grey primer as base.  Thank you for the help and P.S I'm new to the forums

Edited July 30, 2021 by Dpate

[bill-e-boy]

Yes you can

Wait for about a week then hit it with 2000 grit sandpaper wet with a little wash up detergent then put it aside for a day or more to let it continue to gas out

Then use your grits up to what you would normally use then let it gas out some more before hitting it with polish

I have found that it is not quite as glossy after colour sanding as some other paints do but it does come out OK

The problem is the Tamiya acrylic paints do not dry hard for ages so you need to let it gas out between steps. It does gas out faster after the first step

This how I have done it in the past and have found from experience that you cannot rush the job

Pix below is of  29 Roadster with solid blue using the above method - no clear used either

 

[Dpate]

11 minutes ago, bill-e-boy said:

Yes you can

Wait for about a week then hit it with 2000 grit sandpaper wet with a little wash up detergent then put it aside for a day or more to let it continue to gas out

Then use your grits up to what you would normally use then let it gas out some more before hitting it with polish

I have found that it is not quite as glossy after colour sanding as some other paints do but it does come out OK

The problem is the Tamiya acrylic paints do not dry hard for ages so you need to let it gas out between steps. It does gas out faster after the first step

This how I have done it in the past and have found from experience that you cannot rush the job

Pix below is of  29 Roadster with solid blue using the above method - no clear used either

 

 

That's a beautiful Roadster there.  I own plenty of lacquer based paints, but i own alot of Tamiya acrylics too and wanted to give the X-1 a try.  I also forgot to mention i had the hood in the dehydrator(Micro-Mark) for bout 2 hours before i took those pictures.  But i guess more time in the heat should help from waiting a week? Also when you say 2000 grit you mean just regular ole wet & dry? like tamiya, infini, etc? Than hit it with micro mesh? 4000 and up? or 4000-8000 than novus polish? 

[bill-e-boy]

 

Also when you say 2000 grit you mean just regular ole wet & dry?

Yup - I nearly always start with that then move on up to the finer grit sizes

In the bad old days we started with 2000 grit then sanded to 2000 grit on other piece of 2000 grit to get a finer cut then onto polish compound then carnuba wax

Pretty much the same as now but we have access to nice stuff like micro-mesh

 

 

[Dave G.]

With a dehydrator you don't need to wait a week. Maybe a day or two.

[Dpate]

13 hours ago, Dave G. said:

With a dehydrator you don't need to wait a week. Maybe a day or two.

Yeah the few parts in the  dehydrator for another 3-4 hours today.  Checked the hood out and no smell and could touch and rub it without leaving a finger print.  I'm guessing it'll be good enough to start trying to fix the issues in the paint next time i get to it.  The tamiya X-1 isn't too bad of a gloss after really looking at it again today, and i can see my face pretty clear in it lol.  The orange peel isn't as bad as my iphone made it seem too - even though it's there.  

20 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

 

Also when you say 2000 grit you mean just regular ole wet & dry?

Yup - I nearly always start with that then move on up to the finer grit sizes

In the bad old days we started with 2000 grit then sanded to 2000 grit on other piece of 2000 grit to get a finer cut then onto polish compound then carnuba wax

Pretty much the same as now but we have access to nice stuff like micro-mesh

 

 

I was just curious because i didn't think it was 100% safe to use 2000 grit on paint even though it's a very fine grit.  I guess the gloss is sorta like a clear coat too? I'm still new too the hobby if you couldn't tell lol.  So if after working on the hood would i need to do the bumper front & back too to match the hood? or after all the wet sanding & polsihing is done the hood will remain the same just much better looking? Because the bumpers are basically flawless which surprised me.  The kit I'm working on the bumpers are separate and can't be attached till basically end of build even the tail gate so that's why I'm asking.  I haven't even laid paint on the body yet until i know i can get these parts right, because i do have a back up kit if all else fails.  

[Dave G.]

10 hours ago, Dpate said:

Yeah the few parts in the  dehydrator for another 3-4 hours today.  Checked the hood out and no smell and could touch and rub it without leaving a finger print.  I'm guessing it'll be good enough to start trying to fix the issues in the paint next time i get to it.  The tamiya X-1 isn't too bad of a gloss after really looking at it again today, and i can see my face pretty clear in it lol.  The orange peel isn't as bad as my iphone made it seem too - even though it's there.  

 

I've shot X-1 mixed 1-1 or a little more even, with denatured alcohol and it comes out like glass and the dehydrator seems to increase the gloss.  A quick rub with a little Formula 1 Scratch Out and it's good enough for me. It takes 5 coats to look good though, the first two you get a feel for distance when shooting ( with the Paasche H and medium tip you can go 4-5 inches away or I did at least) is about all and they flash off dull so it seems a bit discouraging up to that point, except nice flow out and so smooth. After those two coats you can start to go progressively wetter and gain gloss..  The real gloss pops in the dehydrator. I've only gone to 110f, I'd be curious what more heat could do but you never know about the plastic these days. I saw where one guy cooks paints on models at 130F, I bet enamel would love that temp but I'd be concerned about the plastic parts myself. Acrylics I usually do between 105 and 108. Enamel I do 110 and as mentioned I've done the Tamiya at 110f.

[Dpate]

10 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I've shot X-1 mixed 1-1 or a little more even, with denatured alcohol and it comes out like glass and the dehydrator seems to increase the gloss.  A quick rub with a little Formula 1 Scratch Out and it's good enough for me. It takes 5 coats to look good though, the first two you get a feel for distance when shooting ( with the Paasche H and medium tip you can go 4-5 inches away or I did at least) is about all and they flash off dull so it seems a bit discouraging up to that point, except nice flow out and so smooth. After those two coats you can start to go progressively wetter and gain gloss..  The real gloss pops in the dehydrator. I've only gone to 110f, I'd be curious what more heat could do but you never know about the plastic these days. I saw where one guy cooks paints on models at 130F, I bet enamel would love that temp but I'd be concerned about the plastic parts myself. Acrylics I usually do between 105 and 108. Enamel I do 110 and as mentioned I've done the Tamiya at 110f.

I used Mr.hobby leveling thinner for the tamiya.  I think i did about 3-4 coats and i do remember doing a medium wet and heavy wet coat.  I had to be careful on the tail gate because the name was starting to get covered up, but it came back after drying in the dehydrator.  I also only go about 110F in the dehydrator, and yeah if it wasn't for the trash getting in the paint i probably could get away with just some polish.  Weird considering I've shot alclads gloss black base for chroming and I've never had anything get into the gloss lol.  The only time i had issues in the dehydrator was when i had a part to high up near the exhaust fan and didn't think it was that high, and probably 20 mins went by and i look up and the axle just slightly bending over.  I caught it just in time to bend it back into shape, but it was my own fault almost had a heart attack lol.

I have 3 airbrushes but i only use two.  GSI Creos Mr.Airbrush Procon boy PS-290 & Iwata eclipse hp-cs.   I used the fan cap on the procon to shoot the hood, which probably wasn't a good idea considering I'm still learning it, and it shoots in a wide pattern.  But man with the fan cap it lays primer on bodies like no ones business.