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Achieving a Mirror Glassy Finish over HOK Enamel Model Paint?


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Hello! First time poster, not new to the hobby :)

Question I have is, how do you achieve those glassy like mirror finishes on model cars?

I have sprayed Plastikote Primer on some spoons to test. I then airbrushed HOK silver enamel (from Wal Mart) by misting several coats. I then airbrushed red metallic also from HOK enamel (Wal Mart).

I airbrushed Testors Glosscoat thats from that jar with the purple label. I shot multiple coats until i achieved a fairly glossy finish.

After letting it dry for a few hours, I went from 3200 --> 12,000 grit, and polished with Novus #2. The result was really nice but after awhile, it looked like i lost some of that nice luster.

Any tips or other brands I can try? Thanks..

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Hello! First time poster, not new to the hobby :)

Question I have is, how do you achieve those glassy like mirror finishes on model cars? ...

...After letting it dry for a few hours, I went from 3200 --> 12,000 grit, and polished with Novus #2. The result was really nice but after awhile, it looked like i lost some of that nice luster.

Paint shrinks as it dries, sanding scratches become more apparent, and the overall result is that that nice high gloss goes away. If you got a gloss you were happy with, I'd suggest you just let your materials shrink in longer before you sand and polish.

Back in the 'day', high-end shops like Barris who shot 1:1 cars in lacquer primers as undercoats would often let them "gas out" or "shrink in" for months before shooting color, just for this reason. The longer you can let your materials dry, the more permanent your gloss will be.

If you want to accelerate the curing / drying process, consider shooting catalyzed materials rather than air-dry enamels (and lacquers).

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Paint shrinks as it dries, sanding scratches become more apparent, and the overall result is that that nice high gloss goes away. If you got a gloss you were happy with, I'd suggest you just let your materials shrink in longer before you sand and polish.

Back in the 'day', high-end shops like Barris who shot 1:1 cars in lacquer primers as undercoats would often let them "gas out" or "shrink in" for months before shooting color, just for this reason. The longer you can let your materials dry, the more permanent your gloss will be.

If you want to accelerate the curing / drying process, consider shooting catalyzed materials rather than air-dry enamels (and lacquers).

Thank you for the reply and explanation. Is there a catalyzed system you recommend? Metallics, pearls, and regular single tones? Thanks again.

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If you allow the paint to completely gas out , give it a week or so , go back over the finish with 6-8-12000 . Lightly polish it with the Novus 2 , you will bring back the shine and gloss you originally lost .

I believe you started your polish procedure too soon . As Bill stated , you need to allow the paint to gas out .

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If you allow the paint to completely gas out , give it a week or so , go back over the finish with 6-8-12000 . Lightly polish it with the Novus 2 , you will bring back the shine and gloss you originally lost .

I believe you started your polish procedure too soon . As Bill stated , you need to allow the paint to gas out .

Thanks, I'll do this...

What Walmart carries House of Color paint ?

I bought mine about 4 years ago at Wal Mart - Temecula, CA

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Hi there, I am brand new to this site and this may be the wrong place to post this question. I am fairly new to the hobby, and was wondering what a good method is for getting a nice gloss mirror finish on your models, I have done 4 small scale cars so far, and I am now just about to start this foose camaro. Any tips would be so muchly appreciated.. Thanks..

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