Doug Bowen Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 This morning I had a thought and tried it out. I took a "flux brush" (for applying solder when sweating copper tubing) and trimmed the bristles down to about 1/4" long. This worked pretty well to burnish BMF into tight crevices. Its stiff, so you have to be careful with it. I'm sure it will scratch paint if leaned on to heavily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I've been using a Q-Tip, a toothpick, or the end of a paint brush handle to burnish my BMF and it works great for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I have had good luck in the past with a Testors burnishing tool. Comes with different tips... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyteal Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Have any of you guys tried using this hvac tape I tried some tonight it worked OK but its kinda hard to cut so its tuff to make a clean straight cut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyteal Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 And also if you have used it let me know what works better this tape or the bmf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnwildpunk Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I have used both and I prefer the BMF just easier to work with it will still drive you crazy but not nearly as crazy as with the flu tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I have used both and I prefer the BMF just easier to work with it will still drive you crazy but not nearly as crazy as with the flu tape I agree with Dave, BMF is easier to use but I rarely foil much anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 AD Lassiter makes a tremendous BMF burnishing tool. I'll try to get him to post it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbuzzed Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 I wouldn't go near a painted model with an acid brush, especially one that has been cut down. I use them professionally where I work and they can be very aggressive to any finish. It's like washing a car with a bristle brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Kucaba Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Anyone try a cotton stump? I saw them in the art/paint aisle at Hobby lobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DynoMight Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 How I do my BMF, cut and place on model, rub down on BMF with finger, use a cut down toothpick shaped to a flat-head-type shape and burnish that and then trim. After that I run a t-shirt or rag over the BMF to burnish it down more and sort-of polish it. I would be careful with the flux brush, you might scratch your paint or tear all the BMF off by accident.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scalenut Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) soft balsa wood makes a great burnisher.. conforms to the surface nicely Edited August 7, 2014 by scalenut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S. Svendsen Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 I use a pastel/chalk blending stick. It's soft yet firm and you can sharpen it to a point with a pencil sharpener to get down into tight crevises. Been using the same one for 20 years. http://www.dickblick.com/products/loew-cornell-blending-stumps/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=22866-1059&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvLGfBRDfkrr19KDS-7YBEiQA8CoFJz6P_XGwVWgfYKbZc2HW8F1VjSdcqDhXLD4tjpmVU5AaAqHp8P8HAQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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