Using Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine

[Agent G]

While I have never tried it, a friend gets remarkable results by dipping his painted bodies in a container of Future.

I airbrush it as a clear coat when I use enamel on armor models. I am partial to using oils as washes so Future protects the enamel, and helps the oils flow into recesses and seams. I let the enamel cure for a week or so, then let the Future cure for a few days.

It makes a good clear parts adhesive, as well as making windshields sparkle.

Decal setting solution will fog Future if is not completely cured. If you polish a paint job with Novus, Future will bead up and be repelled from the surface.

G

[walt francis]

I have only used Future for my clear and to clean it I just use windex works great and you can thin it with windex check out my glass repair in the tips .

[Ddms]

YES! recently a bottle of it held -up a convenience store in New York

It had been hanging around with model builders and was led astray. Who knows what the kid holds for this poor Future?

Edited March 16, 2011 by Ddms

[Ddms]

Actually, Future makes a pretty good base for Spaz Stix. I've been using Alclad black basecoat until recently. I assume Future would work equally well under Alclad - and it's a lot cheaper and easier to apply than Alclad black basecoat. The thing is, it has a very high gloss, and I'm starting to realize that that's the key to nice looking sprayed-on chrome - IF the chrome will stick to it, which is not the case with a polished/compounded finish.

[asco]

Asking stupid questions here I guess, but I am pretty new with this Future -thingy, and I have to ask something. I have understood that I can use it to seal for example bigger body customizations etc., stright to the plastic. Then You could be able to primer the body and perhaps sand it and primer it again.

Am I wrong, I just didn't got the thingy working. Paint didn't stay on the waxed body. Quite a frustrating... It might have been the problem on primer too, cheap paints probably ain't the best ones...

But just to ask, am I on right track? I'm searching a way to keep the shaved handles and trims away.

Thanks.

[935k3]

Asking stupid questions here I guess, but I am pretty new with this Future -thingy, and I have to ask something. I have understood that I can use it to seal for example bigger body customizations etc., stright to the plastic. Then You could be able to primer the body and perhaps sand it and primer it again.

Am I wrong, I just didn't got the thingy working. Paint didn't stay on the waxed body. Quite a frustrating... It might have been the problem on primer too, cheap paints probably ain't the best ones...

But just to ask, am I on right track? I'm searching a way to keep the shaved handles and trims away.

Thanks.

Future will seal putty and body work and you can just about any paint over it but I would avoid waterbased acrylics like Tamiya in the bottle as it can crack.

[asco]

Future will seal putty and body work and you can just about any paint over it but I would avoid waterbased acrylics like Tamiya in the bottle as it can crack.

Thanks, I will continue testing different type of primers - that one really wasn't working properly, it was like I would have been painting over the wet soap or something, it just didn't stay on the surface.

[W117monte]

I painted my interior tub flat black, then i brushed the console, rear seat and door panels with future. I thought this gave a realistic look. Not as glossy as gloss paint and a good look for the interior.

[charlzrocks]

THANKS I will have to try that with my next build!

[Custom Mike]

Here's where I ask for some help from those who have used Future before, I'm at my wits end with this stuff. I got it tinted nicely, but can't get it applied evenly to save my life.

I tried dipping the windows in it....FAIL

I tried dipping just one side in it....FAIL

I tried brushing it on....FAIL

I tried airbrushing it (6 light mist coats @ 30psi)....FAIL

Here's a picture of what they look like, ignore the little black dots and lines, that's on the lamp base itself. They'll be making a trip into some fresh Future for stripping in a few minutes. I'm going to bash my head into the oak tree in the backyard.... :banghead:

[Art Laski]

Mike,

On this windscreen, I dipped it in future, then after it dried, I masked off the outer surface and sprayed Tamiya smoke through an airbrush to the inside. I may have been able to smoke it first, as I think some guys do that, but I didn't. I only wish I had put on a few less coats on the smoke so it was a little lighter, but I was generally pleased with it and it's still translucent.

Good Luck,

-Art

[customsrus]

Hello, I know this has been asked before, I have never used this product and needed to know how to use it. Do you spray it diluted or straight out of the bottle. And does anyone have a tutorial on how to use future. Also what do you use to clean your airbrush after use. Any help would be appreciated Thanks John

Edited March 26, 2011 by customsrus

[Foxer]

This should tell you more than you want to know:

The Complete Future

[diymirage]

i have applied it both with a brush (straight future) and through an airbrush (mixed with some blue paint for tinting) and both ways worked fine for me

it appears to me you are putting on too much at once

especially with the airbrush you want to run a high air/future ratio (specially if you have a dual action brush, press it down all the way but only pull it back a little)

this stuff takes a while to dry and if you apply a wet coat over a not completly dry coat it will puddle

[Cato]

Every one has a favorite method-here's how I did all the glass on my 1/12 GT. I did not tint it but food coloring should work or RIT Dye.

Round up some (almost) free materials:

Future.

A baking tin about 4" x 6" and 3" deep.

Clamp type wooden clothespins.

A shoebox or similar.

Four small jars of paint or similar.

A piece of paper towel.

Pick a dry, clean area to work with good light-no dust if possible. Lay the paper towel out flat.

Fill the baking tin nearly to the top with Future.

Clean the glass with a soft brush to get fine 'hairs' off-don't worry if it has minute scratches. Clamp the clothespin on the very corner of the glass so that the glass will touch down on the other corner and use the pin as a 'leg'.

Holding the clothespin, slowly dip the glass into the Future and remove it when completely immersed.

Lay the pin on it's side on the towel with just the corner of the glass touching the towel. You want the glass to touch down on just a corner, to wick off the Future. Get the glass as vertical as possible so the Future does not dry in 'waves'.

Slowly place the four jars around the glass in the shape of the shoebox's dimensions. Clean the inside of the box with a damp towel. Place the shoebox on the jars so it covers the glass but lets air in the sides. I like to let dry 6 to 12 hours. You can do all the pieces at once if they fit under the box. DO NOT touch when installing-use tweezers or clamps and the glass will be crystal clear. The Future will fill very minor scuffs if you had any. Good luck.

Edited March 28, 2011 by Cato

[Custom Mike]

I did not tint it but food coloring should work or RIT Dye..

I can tell you, RIT dye just clumps up badly, I tried that one first, made a heck of a mess to boot!

Eelco, I went with light mist coats about 10 inches from the pieces of glass, but apparently it was too much still. Cato's idea of "wicking" the excess Future off the glass sounds like a winner, the next time I try doing this, I'll give that a shot. I got the windows tinted using tint film, but modified my application method. I submerged the film in soapy water, then stuck the glass to the submerged film, eliminating any dust or hairs in the process. We'll see how they look tomorrow once the film has set up good and solidly!

Thanks for the help guys, now get back to the benches, these things don't build themselves you know!

[Jamez]

A layer of future over a flat colour has a tendency to turn it into a satin..... looks decent too

[ronnie]

Hi guys and gails of this great hobby

Im having trouble with appling future to my ford T roadster windowshield and I can't get a new one because revell stop production on the kit,any way ever time I dip it in a container of future I see tiny specs on the glass even after wicking it,could the future be contaminated

and now I see streechs on the glass and what is a good cleaning cloth any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

[Cato]

...ever time I dip it in a container of future I see tiny specs on the glass even after wicking it,could the future be contaminated

...and now I see streechs on the glass and what is a good cleaning cloth

Yes, the glass is contaminated or the Future may be bad. My Future bottle is 10 years old and it's still fine. Don't use any chemicals on the glass. Sand with sanding cloths, 6000 to 12,000 grit. Clean your fingers with isopropyl. Then rinse glass in water without touching. Blow dry and dip in Future as above.

You can also easily make a 'T' windshield out of acetate from a package because it's dead flat.

[ronnie]

Yes, the glass is contaminated or the Future may be bad. My Future bottle is 10 years old and it's still fine. Don't use any chemicals on the glass. Sand with sanding cloths, 6000 to 12,000 grit. Clean your fingers with isopropyl. Then rinse glass in water without touching. Blow dry and dip in Future as above.

You can also easily make a 'T' windshield out of acetate from a package because it's dead flat.

that is good to hear about the remidy that is and I was also thinking about using acetate thank you for the information

[RobH]

i would buy a roll of real window tint and try that! autozone ,walmart normally have it pretty cheap!

its like a sticker!

[LOBBS]

Was at the store after work and needed to pick up a new bottle of Future. Saw that it's now Pledge(?) with Future shine. To further complicate things there was a wood floor and also a tile and vinyl formula. What's the right stuff for clearcoating called nowadays?

[highway]

Kyle, I do believe the one you want is the Pledge with Future Shine. As for which one, don't hold me to it, but I would guess the vinyl one would be the right one, since I believe the old Future before the name change was for vinyl floors.

[LOBBS]

Thanks Matthew, that was the one I was leaning towards but didn't buy until I checked it out first.

[highway]

Thanks Matthew, that was the one I was leaning towards but didn't buy until I checked it out first.

Kyle, that's just my best guess, I've never actually used Future for clearcoating!! I'm just going on what I've read about it here, so you might want to wait until someone who actually uses it conforms it to make sure I'm correct.