slusher Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Never known of Citrustrip. If it works fast that's a good thing. Did it do any damage to the plastic?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share Posted December 25, 2014 MERRY CHRISTMAS! ok guys, here's the hood. It's not done quite yet. I have some more stripping and sanding to do. The little bit of white towards the windshield side of the hood is primer. So far this Citrustrip has done a great job. the body is still soaking in a solution of water and 91% iso alcohol. I'll let it soak until Thursday and see what happens then. See you guys soon and enjoy Christmas! Look forward to seeing what kits ya'll get! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share Posted December 25, 2014 Never known of Citrustrip. If it works fast that's a good thing. Did it do any damage to the plastic?? No damage to the plastic. No bubbling, pitting, or warping. The hood does feel a little more flexible maybe? I don't know the science behind plastic and such but I didn't really handle the hood a ton before and I also didn't test the flexibility of the hood, so I can't say with any certainty that its a little more flexible. I have heard that Dot 3 and 4 can cause the plastic to be a little more flexible so perhaps it's unavoidable. Oh, I spelled it wrong, it's Citristrip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragzz Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 least it came out looking ok so there was no damg to it that good just needs a bit more sanding then your set looking great so far good job buddy cant wait to see how the rest of it looks when its done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted December 25, 2014 Author Share Posted December 25, 2014 (edited) I stuck it back into the iso alcohol bath with the body to soak for another 9 hours while I am at work. When I get home I will get at the last little bit of primer and see what i can get off the body. I did discover this morning that glue holding the front bumper on had failed and the bumper is now off. I am also going to take an old sprue and let it soak in the Citristrip for an hour to see what happens tonight. Hopefully, it isnt a melted goop of plastic and stripper. Edited December 25, 2014 by ferrari87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragzz Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 all we can do is hope it will not happen good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horsepower Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Two things I've come across that may help you out, first one is, when working with plastics of any kind they will build static electricity up just handling them, and even tacking them down before painting. You can run a wire from the metal parts that you are supporting the body with to a ground in your painting area, or a trick I learned when painting boats and'Vettes, etc. when I had my body shop is you can take a cup (airbrush size bottle or paint cup) of plain old rubbing alcohol and spray a mist coat on what you're painting and surprisingly enough it will dissipate static electricity. The second thing is I assume you're using Tamiya paint, I've had problems with it "solvent cratering" when I try to lay down a good wet final coat without letting the previous coat to dry enough, you can be sure it's ready if it's allowed to dry to the "slick dry" stage, this is when you can lightly run a finger over a test area (there's usually an area of some sort right near what you're painting you can use) without any paint sticking to your fingertips, remember LIGHTLY run just a fingertip. These solvent craters look almost like fisheye, but just opposite of fisheye won't show up until the last wet coat of paint, and not when applying it, but shortly thereafter, when it actually starts to cure. What is happening is to much paint to fast, and the paint drys from the outside in, and the very top surface actually skins over trapping solvents in the paint underneath it,,, and when those solvents try to gas out, they will actually form tiny bubbles in the surface and when they vent out it leaves a pinhole of area that goes down to the point where the paint was allowed to dry, that's why usually it's a primer coat. This is bad news when you're painting your models, but the first time I ever heard or saw this happen was when I painted a full size Cadillac and when I went back into the booth two hours later every surface flatter than forty five degrees was covered in these little pops in the surface, Ditzler actually had to bring in a factory tech to look at the problem and diagnose what it was, none of the local paint guys had ever seen it. But having actually been through it, the first time I had it happen on a model I recognized it right away, there are some colors that are more prone than others, and the only reason I can think of is the amount of actual thinners Tamiya is using in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pizzwizz24 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Two things I've come across that may help you out, first one is, when working with plastics of any kind they will build static electricity up just handling them, and even tacking them down before painting. You can run a wire from the metal parts that you are supporting the body with to a ground in your painting area, or a trick I learned when painting boats and'Vettes, etc. when I had my body shop is you can take a cup (airbrush size bottle or paint cup) of plain old rubbing alcohol and spray a mist coat on what you're painting and surprisingly enough it will dissipate static electricity. The second thing is I assume you're using Tamiya paint, I've had problems with it "solvent cratering" when I try to lay down a good wet final coat without letting the previous coat to dry enough, you can be sure it's ready if it's allowed to dry to the "slick dry" stage, this is when you can lightly run a finger over a test area (there's usually an area of some sort right near what you're painting you can use) without any paint sticking to your fingertips, remember LIGHTLY run just a fingertip. These solvent craters look almost like fisheye, but just opposite of fisheye won't show up until the last wet coat of paint, and not when applying it, but shortly thereafter, when it actually starts to cure. What is happening is to much paint to fast, and the paint drys from the outside in, and the very top surface actually skins over trapping solvents in the paint underneath it,,, and when those solvents try to gas out, they will actually form tiny bubbles in the surface and when they vent out it leaves a pinhole of area that goes down to the point where the paint was allowed to dry, that's why usually it's a primer coat. This is bad news when you're painting your models, but the first time I ever heard or saw this happen was when I painted a full size Cadillac and when I went back into the booth two hours later every surface flatter than forty five degrees was covered in these little pops in the surface, Ditzler actually had to bring in a factory tech to look at the problem and diagnose what it was, none of the local paint guys had ever seen it. But having actually been through it, the first time I had it happen on a model I recognized it right away, there are some colors that are more prone than others, and the only reason I can think of is the amount of actual thinners Tamiya is using in them. Very informative. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 Well, that's all she wrote folks. I stripped the body clean and at first, it was going very very well. However, something happened to the stripper. It started to gum up. I tried washing it off, no luck. I tried using mineral spirits, that seemed to make it worse. It went down from there. The passenger side A pillar snapped and finally, the whole model became soft and springy. DO NOT USE CITRISTRIP! DO NOT USE CITRISTRIP! It doesn't play well with plastic. I have to find a new body, front bumper, and hood. I don't know if I feel like buying a whole new kit, as that's A. a waste of several parts and B. dang near a waste of money. I don't know what I want to do and this model has done nothing but fight me the entire flipping time. For now, I'm taking a break. Thanks to you that followed along and to those fellow DBS enthusiasts, I apologize for screwing up such a gorgeous car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 Two things I've come across that may help you out, first one is, when working with plastics of any kind they will build static electricity up just handling them, and even tacking them down before painting. You can run a wire from the metal parts that you are supporting the body with to a ground in your painting area, or a trick I learned when painting boats and'Vettes, etc. when I had my body shop is you can take a cup (airbrush size bottle or paint cup) of plain old rubbing alcohol and spray a mist coat on what you're painting and surprisingly enough it will dissipate static electricity. The second thing is I assume you're using Tamiya paint, I've had problems with it "solvent cratering" when I try to lay down a good wet final coat without letting the previous coat to dry enough, you can be sure it's ready if it's allowed to dry to the "slick dry" stage, this is when you can lightly run a finger over a test area (there's usually an area of some sort right near what you're painting you can use) without any paint sticking to your fingertips, remember LIGHTLY run just a fingertip. These solvent craters look almost like fisheye, but just opposite of fisheye won't show up until the last wet coat of paint, and not when applying it, but shortly thereafter, when it actually starts to cure. What is happening is to much paint to fast, and the paint drys from the outside in, and the very top surface actually skins over trapping solvents in the paint underneath it,,, and when those solvents try to gas out, they will actually form tiny bubbles in the surface and when they vent out it leaves a pinhole of area that goes down to the point where the paint was allowed to dry, that's why usually it's a primer coat. This is bad news when you're painting your models, but the first time I ever heard or saw this happen was when I painted a full size Cadillac and when I went back into the booth two hours later every surface flatter than forty five degrees was covered in these little pops in the surface, Ditzler actually had to bring in a factory tech to look at the problem and diagnose what it was, none of the local paint guys had ever seen it. But having actually been through it, the first time I had it happen on a model I recognized it right away, there are some colors that are more prone than others, and the only reason I can think of is the amount of actual thinners Tamiya is using in them. That is awesome. Thank you very much for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 Hey man, don't get to down on yourself. We have all had kits that tore our tails up. I think that spare parts can be sourced from Tamiya. Although more difficult that with revell. It's worth a try. Don't beat yourself up. I'm going to contact Tamiya USA and see about getting a new body, hood, and front bumper as well as the piece that goes into the rear end to finish the duck tail spoiler. All else fails, one day I'll buy a new DBS kit but for now, this bleeping kit is going into baggies and stuck on a friggin shelf. In retrospect, I probably could have sanded the area and repainted. The ENTIRE paint job was not screwed but i did not want flawed paint in any way. I also should have just stuck with DOT 3 or 4. I have a bunch of other kits in waiting, first up is an R-34 VSPEC II that I plan on putting an engine into from a donor R-32 kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragzz Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 iam sorry to see this happen dot 3 dot 4 brake fuild work good for me u going to a new build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pizzwizz24 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Lesson learned. Move on to something new and try to get your mind off of it. I think we've all been there... done that! Sorry it went wrong for you. Better luck on the next one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_67 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Justin, sorry to here about that bad luck. I guess all you can do is learn and move on. I just fought and lost to an aston martin as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrari87 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Thanks guys! On Monday or after the new year I'm going to contact Tamiya USA and see if I can get a replacement body and the other pieces. If not, I will camp on Ebay for a cheap kit. I'm going to restart this thread when I get a new body in. Until then, I've decided to start my RX-7 R1 build, so I'm going from a kit made in this decade, to one made when I was 6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
508boricua Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Sweet build! This kit is awesome. Here's what I came up with. Kutgw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Sorry to hear about the damage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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