customline

I don't exactly know why I didn't try this first but after my night-time "medication" kicked in, I dug out some .005 sheet and the rest is a blur. like....why didn't I try this first? Much better, thank you very much 💩 Sometimes the simple stuff works 🥴.

You are, Mark, I've seen the IH pickup. Thanks for your comments.

Yeah, man, I'm liking it. I like the donor chassis a lot, too. A full channel job would have taken rear fenders off the table and I wanted to keep the front fenders (one of the reasons I like the chassis doner) and if there's fenders in front then....now I feel like I need to extend the rears to be flush with the body I extended 🤪. I'll never be finshed with this thing. 😪

The rear wheel wells have no innards so I started playing around with some .010 scraps. The width difference between the AMT interior bucket and the outer side of the frame was too much for the .010. to bend so I opted for a overlapping configuration with half on the interior and the bottom half glued to the frame. I glued 'em on and painted 'em flat black. I tried to photo the finished product but couldn't get anything useful so you'll just have to trust me 😉. I did a little Dremel surgery on the transmission to alleviate positional difficulties during final. That wasn't it. I apologize 😔. Turned out to be the firewall opening. Dremel surgery again. That did it. 😄 It would be almost impossible to squeeze the interior tub between the above inner fender panels. Final assembly would be me cleaning up the scattered pieces and Wifey whining about the hole I put in the wall. I opted for the overlap. It's still a bit tricky but with practice....🙂 Yes it's jack-leg but we're the only ones who know. 😉

Thanks, Brian, it's been an adventure 🥵 but I got help here.

I just felt like having a little show. 🙃 here we go.....

Thanks, Bob. This thing as had more surgery than I have.

Okay....because of a disparity in scale accuracy or maybe just the size of the rear tires, the gap between body and gas tank was unacceptable. The only thing to do was extend the bottom of the body to close the gap First I removed the bead molding. I welded a fishplate on the inside of the body and, because of the unevenness of the thickness of the AMT body, I built up the thickness of the extension with strips of sheet stock till it was a tad over flush with the body and sanded it down fair. I added .040 half-round to replace the one I had to remove. Tying the half-round into the existing bead was next. Not too bad. It will need some love and understanding to get the transition invisible. Sand, prime, sand, prime, etc going forward. Thanks for coming by. 🤓

Awesome, period.

Ahh...sometimes the mirrors are just too small to pin. I figured that was the case. So this is a way to attach and aim the mirrors. I think I might have some 1" angle out in the garage. If I can find it.

That's a cool technique for installing mirrors, Greg. My guess is they were too small to drill. I hope I remember it 🥴

I really like this kit 😎

After some very emotional soul-searching, I decided the Revell grille is the best choice. With the aid of my trusty Dremel Micro, I removed the bottom tank and the mounting lugs and anything else that was in the way. I scraped the paint off the front cross member to give the shell something good to stick to. Now it sits about .25" lower. I think it's gonna work. I drilled the shroud (and the core 😦) for a new bottom connection and inserted a short length of tube directly into the core and ordered a case of K-Seal HD, which probably won't help much since the bottom tank is gone, not to mention the.....anyway, here's what Tubby looks like now. The top radiator hose was shortened and a new one was "crafted" for the bottom. Both are now painted flat black. 🥴

Yeah, that's what I figured. 😄

My first '40 dash section. 🥴 Though the Revell part(s) is way more accurate and fits between the horns, the AMT grille might be easier to modify for the job. I have a few of them to experiment with (more junkyard stuff).