ERIK88
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Posts posted by ERIK88
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I think the focus is more on adults, and your occasional kid who is probably introduced to the hobby from a close family member who is already an avid builder. I think they would probably fit The casual weekend builder who wants to have a quick fast snap kit to build alongside grandpa . There are enough baby boomers and grandsons / daughters to capitalize from! Lol
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That is definitely a sad article on the discontinuation of the make and take program. I think it's hard to reach out to the youth, I mean there are many other hobbies out there that give instant gratification with less effort, let's not forget the cost of supplies and the fact that every kit on average is about $20 bucks or so. A kid can't buy a model with a $5-$10 weekly allowance like they once were able too. That and the fact that they can't even go to a local retail store and buy a can of spraypaint or glue if under 18.
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Idk about you guys, but personally i rather not deal with the passive agressive behaviors mentioned from some of the hobby shop owners in this thread or the antisocial, pushy attitudes. Let's not forget the hobby shop with that crazy scary looking German Shepard guard dog , and a poorly kept landfill of a place with sky high prices ! Lol. Excuse my past experiences .. For those of you who live in the milwaukee county area you know what place I was referring to
no longer In business either :/ I like dogs btw , but this dog was scary, especially as a 12 13yr old, makes you feel like your patronage is not welcomed lol!!! -
I would agree if it was rephrased as,"Are car model kits making a comeback in North America?"
I apologize I guess I should expand my horizons sometimes .. ?
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Wow! There were a lot of great stories, and excellent statements as to why the model kit industry is booming ! A member commented on how younger generations are not attracted to many of the American muscle/ hot rods of the 50s, 60s,70s, I wonder how Factual that is. I don't think American model companies are building modern sports cars because they aren't as popular with the older generations which have a bigger influence In this hobby. I can see how this industry can go into a downward spiral once baby boomers are long gone. I wonder if they will attempt to build modern muscle once model companies see this change in demographic. Nonetheless I'm going to enjoy this great era were in to the fullest!
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Idk about you guys but I feel like the model industry is making a comeback, what seemed like a dead hobby only for a rare few seems to be coming back. Is it due to the economy getting Better? Baby boomers retiring? We might just be at another golden age of model building. Im seeing a high variety of new molds and re releases of old kits than I ever have over the last 7 years. I know this is still a niche market, and doesn't develop strong enough sales for large retail stores, but I think we're in a good stage right now.
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This model is amazing , I really like your execution. Gotta love those side skirts!
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Can anyone tell me more about this kit? Is it valuable? What are blueprint kits?
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Wow what a good amount of info you guys have given me! Thank you for making this hobby much more enjoyable. Body paint has always been my struggle, but it looks like it won't be anymore thanks to the masters! All of these tips will be taken seriously and applied to my projects .
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That was a lot of good information that was shared with me, deeply appreciated !
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If you're still seeing scratches after polishing, it's because either you left deeper scratches in the paint that you didn't get out during your progressively finer and finer sanding, or you haven't polished enough.
Many modelers tend to not put enough effort into the sanding phases. Each successive sanding step is intended to remove, entirely, the deeper sanding scratches left by the previous grit. Just lightly rubbing it around on the car isn't getting the job done.
Polishing, unlike what a lot of folks seem to believe, isn't just "wipe it on and rub a little bit", either.
Polishing is an ABRASIVE process, and its purpose is to abrasively remove the last of the 12,000 grit scratches and restore the surface to its original gloss.
Do it all right, you won't see any scratches in the surface.
We do exactly the same steps on the big cars, but only sand to 3000 grit or so, usually. Polishing the final 3000-grit scratches out is done with a machine, but the same advice applies. A cloudy, dull surface or visible scratches simply mean the job isn't done yet.
Polishing is what brings the gloss back, not wax.
thanks a lot, I might not be scrubbing enough . I will try going at it again this time a little harder on the body. I'll share my results ;)
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Hey guys, I want to thank everyone in advance who responds . So I have. A question concerning polishing and waxing. Ok so as you guys know a lot of times when clearcoat is sprayed there is orange peel . A way to get rid of orange peel is to sand the clearcoat. So I sand with diff fine grits from micro mesh. I finally do the 12000 grit wet sand scrub and then apply a polish, rub and apply a wax. This is all done with a micro fiber cloth. So I'm aware that when I sand clearcoat, it's going to get dull, and it won't completely regain the original full shine. That's fine , it's still shiny enough. However I notice these light scratches I can't get rid off. Is that because I sanded or scrubbed too hard? Maybe it's normal? I really don't think I should be seeing light swirl or scratch marks. I also used meguiiars and it didn't work. How can I keep everything smooth without light scratches?
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I was just wondering, Erik, why you expend so much energy in the primer phase? From what I have read here, you have 7 coats of primer on this model! You would normally have that many primers when you found areas that needed more sanding, and you were using the primer to point out those areas. If you've prepared your model before priming by removing the mold lines, etc., and you give it one coat of primer... if you don't see any small scratches, or any unlevel areas... it's ready for finish paint!
Btw, are you sure 3-5" is the "recommended" distance from your object? Usually, these big cans recommend getting further back than that... Check the can and let us know... This could be why you're getting too much paint on the model at one time...
I agree with you guys, I think I'm putting on too much primer and the spraying distance should be 10-12 inches,
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Eric, did you use an enamel paint, or lacquer? I've never used a dehydrator and seem to get along just fine without it. It's not like I'm gonna build a model in one day, even though I've know guys to do this.
hello, it was actually a lacquer spray an
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i came d across a good reference online , and this is how the model looked in yellow paint.pimples, but not so extreme
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I respectfully suggest you practice and develop your spray techniques BEFORE you paint models that you want to look good.
Small plastic pop bottles make good test subjects. Do all your prep and paint steps the same as you do on a model.
Find out what works, reliably, every time, and then stick to a known procedure with the same materials.
Constant experimenting, mixing materials from various companies (without thorough testing first) and trying to rush-dry your paint are all disasters waiting to happen.
It's a LOT more fun to do this stuff when you KNOW your paint will come out right.
thanks for the advice, I honestly try do do things as procedurally right as possible. I hated the fact that it seems to be a hit or miss deal most of the time. For example, I've experimented under higher or lower temps diff acceptable humidity levels on my Mpc svo mustang which came out right in like the third try lol. That kit had krypton primer and krylon gloss black , no other brand paints used. It still developed those tiny dots everywhere. I try to follow everything by the book, I gotta be doing somethi g wrong by speed drying. I should try not to rush so much. Those dang little dots or pimples whatever you wanna call them get me !
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"Air" bubbles in spray paint is a problem as old as rattle cans themselves, particularly enamels (I discovered this problem back in 1959 with the very first paintjobs I did with the then-newly-released Pactra 'Namel "Soft Spray" paint for plastic models. This problem is caused by humidity--it can cause enamels to "skin over" very quickly which I've found is the primary cause of "hazing" with both rattle can enamels and lacquers. "Hazing" itself, is curable--it polishes right out.
Those nasty little air bubbles are another matter entirely: When the paint (particularly enamels) "skins" over too rapidly, the paint has still not out-gassed its propellant gas (spray can propellant does get dissolved into the paint, in the can, under the rather high PSI needed in order to propel the paint out in a fine spray). If the paint surface dries too quickly, that gas (generally propane nowadays, BTW) has no place to go, and as with bubbles in a glass of soda, they tend to gather together in ever larger bubbles.
There really is no solution to this problem other than stripping the paint, and starting all over. Living in the Great Lakes region, we all face this at some time or another--the only thing to do is wait either for the humidity to drop, or paint in the heat of day when the relative humidity is lower than it would be say, at night. Another solution is to paint indoors, with airconditioning (will take some work to keep the rest of the family happy though!), or get a dehumidifier, which will dry out the air inside the house (or at least in a room) enough to prevent this from happening.
Also, I'd wait for the paint to begin to dry, at least to the "tacky" stage, before putting it in the dehydrator (which device I use religiously BTW), so the propellant has as much time as possible to out-gas before the surface of the paint traps it.
Art (who's been spray painting model car body shells (both aerosol can AND airbrush) for now a good 56 years.
this is some really good info! Thanks . So do you think that every time I shoot a layer of paint I'm causing for the paint to dry to quickly? I think that's were my problem might be. Because every time I shoot a layer of paint I place eighth back in the dehydrator along with can and wait 5-10 min and go on model cars mag while I wait
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thanks a lot for your response mark , the body was washed with soap firsthand, dried and primered in krylon grey primer, put in the dehydrator, then two days later sanded with 600 grit 800 1500 grit, then washed with soap. Once dry, I primed with duplicolor white primer. Thin coats, about 6 then set to dry once again in the dehydrator. The body was taken out of the dehydrator then sanded smooth same grits of sandpaper, smoothed out washed in dishwasher soap. I then waited for the body to dry, and warmed up my krylon sun fire yellow spraycan for about 10 minutes in the dehydrator. The body was then sprayed with this spray can with about 4 thin coats, 5-10 min intervals on each coat depending on how heavy I went on paint. I finally did one medium coat , I waited for another 5 min (body placed in the dehydrator within each coat after) . I finally did a heavy coat, as I sprayed I wasn't achieving a gloss, only in some areas . This is part of what cause the overspray. I wanted to get somewhat of a gloss. I finally stopped, and realize I went over, but not to the point where paint is running or sagging, it simply has a deep look to the point it took out some panel detailing. About 3 min after I saw clouding in the paint. It remained hazy, however as soon as I placed in the dehydrator multiple little tiny dots (not circular fish eyes ) where all over the paint .
I really appreciate the help, I love this hobby but can't seem to spray car body's good . This is my second model it's happened on, I eventually got a decent spray on the first model it happened on but I can make out what causes this . It's frustrating , it seems like I follow every rule in the book. I spray about 3-5 inches away too
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A photo would speed help along also
I got so frustrated I didn't take a pic . Lol
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Did you mean to say Dehydrator? As in a food dehydrator?
Can I ask how the body was prepped before spraying? Sanded? Washed with hot water and TSP?
Did you use Gloss or Satin paint? If it is Gloss it should come out shiney with no need to clear for the shine.
Answer my questions and we can better help you.
Mark
thanks a lot for your response mark , the body was washed with soap firsthand, dried and primered in krylon grey primer, put in the dehydrator, then two days later sanded with 600 grit 800 1500 grit, then washed with soap. Once dry, I primed with duplicolor white primer. Thin coats, about 6 then set to dry once again in the dehydrator. The body was taken out of the dehydrator then sanded smooth same grits of sandpaper, smoothed out washed in dishwasher soap. I then waited for the body to dry, and warmed up my krylon sun fire yellow spraycan for about 10 minutes in the dehydrator. The body was then sprayed with this spray can with about 4 thin coats, 5-10 min intervals on each coat depending on how heavy I went on paint. I finally did one medium coat , I waited for another 5 min (body placed in the dehydrator within each coat after) . I finally did a heavy coat, as I sprayed I wasn't achieving a gloss, only in some areas . This is part of what cause the overspray. I wanted to get somewhat of a gloss. I finally stopped, and realize I went over, but not to the point where paint is running or sagging, it simply has a deep look to the point it took out some panel detailing. About 3 min after I saw clouding in the paint. It remained hazy, however as soon as I placed in the dehydrator multiple little tiny dots (not circular fish eyes ) where all over the paint .
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Eric, did you use an enamel paint, or lacquer? I've never used a dehydrator and seem to get along just fine without it. It's not like I'm gonna build a model in one day, even though I've know guys to do this.
I actually used krylon lacquer spraycan . I know how you feel, but idk I can't go without using that thing ! It just seems fascinating how it can instantly dry paint for ya
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the model car gets place in the dehumidifier right away fyi. But i saw the hazing beforehand, the bubbling didnt occur until after. Was this going to occur anyway? did the dehumidifier just speed up the process? I would imagine it did since it intensifies taking out the moisture , and drying the paint .
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so i painted my Porsche model kit in 70s temp, 67 % humidity I sprayed krylon sunfire yellow warmed in the dehumidifier, sprayed thin coats in the beginning about 4x each time putting the car in the dehumidifier and then I did a wet coat. I must admit i think i sprayed to much on my final wet coat as i was looking for a gloss look all around. Should I be looking for a gloss all around the body? or should I leave some parts unglossed? I think that the gloss goes away anyway once the paint dries. Should i expect a gloss at all? or should I just fully cover the model car, and obtain the shine from clearcoat , buff and wax? This is my 4th model in years. I wanna get this right, painting the body always gets me. I dont get it. The paint came out hazy , cloudy as a result, and it also had multiple bubbles or dots around the body all around.
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what a beauty! I actually recently bought two of these from revell ( the indy pace car editions ) I plan to do one pace car, and a anniversary silver corvette. I think I've catch the corvette bug lately, normally I don't buy vettes but have accumulated quite a few since
no longer In business either 
thanks for the tips and support 
Are model kits making a comeback? What gives?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted · Edited by ERIK88
Hey video games are to blame since I think a lot of times theh make a older muscle car appear as this heavy duty all metal BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH near uncontrollable piece of machinery in actual course tracks . Muscle cars are not suited for track racing, mainly for drag racing and possibly oval racing. Try going in circles for 20 laps in a video game and see if that doesn't get boring quick, or going in a straight line in a video game . Modern cars typically handle better in a video game , Which leaves me to believe muscle cars weren't exactly the easiest to handle back in the 60s 70s . Nonetheless , I still like a muscle cars or hot rod any day before a modern car I can see everyday by simply going outside .