Harold

In the interest of going green and recycling (okay, I'm just jumping on the bandwagon) and adding more detail to my Lincoln, I sacrificed one of my older builds for the chassis and several other components. Starting with the Lincoln chassis, I cut away the back section and the boxed- in area around the springs, and added the corresponding section from an AMT '62 T-Bird. I then cut away the front section of the Lincoln chassis and replaced it with the front section from the T-Bird. The photo will explain it better. After I got everything the way I wanted, I removed the driveshaft and tunnel from the middle (Lincoln) section. It will be best to do it like this, to ensure that things will line up. Moving on to the engine, I removed the trans and front cover after gluing the block halves together. This is the MEL (Mercury- Edsel- Lincoln) 430, and though it's bigger than the FE, some parts were interchangeable. I used the front cover and water pump from the AMT '65 Ford, along with the oil pan. The hole in the block was filled. The transmission is the option Lincoln Hy-Drive from the Revell '64 Thunderbolt. What was a pleasant surprise is that it lines up perfectly with the T-Bird trans mount. The mockup shows that the wheelbase is perfect (nailed it on the first try- yee- ha!). The were some issues with the fit of the interior shell with the rear deck, so I separated the rear parcel shelf from the interior and grafted it to the body. I removed the engine bay from the T-Bird body, and according to my research, it's actually correct for this application. It fits on the chassis, so there's no messy bodywork grafting it in. I kinda like the Prowler wheels on it- they just might stay. I was able to use the belt and accessory drives from the 'Bird as well, only having to replace the generator with an alternator. More to follow.

Actually, I've just started working on the body. There's a few issues I'm addressing, most of it centered around the deck and tonneau area. I'll have the chassis mostly done tonight. Like I said, I stretched the '62 'Bird chassis (the Lincoln and T-Bird used a lot of the same inner structure, and were both built at the Ford plant in Wixom, Mi.). Using the Lincoln engine block, I cut away the bell housing and front cover and filled the hole in the block. On the front, I used the front cover and water pump from a Ford FE engine (the Lincoln is the 430 CID MEL motor) and FE oil pan and snagged the Lincoln trans from the Revell Thunderbolt. I'll start a WIP thread tomorrow.

Nice goat, bainford. Just tell 'em you're taking it back to the repair shop because the top won't go up. Or you're trying to get that Roaring Twenties touring car feeling. Great job.

To make the poseable steering was a cinch. The spindles are molded to the lower a-arms. I taped this assembly to the chassis and drilled out the pivot points (top and bottom) with a #61 bit in my pin vise (thru the arms and into the spindles) and then cut the spindles away from the lower arms. The attachment points on the spindles where the tie rod fits on were drilled out, again with the # 61. I then superglued a straight pin into one of the spindles and cut it off with about 1/16 of an inch protruding out. I repeated this for the other three holes and assembled the front suspension and spindles. To attach the tie rod, I slid a pin through the tie rod point (from the bottom, as the tie rod goes on top) all the way to the pin head on both left and right sides. I then mixed up a small batch of 5- minute epoxy and, using a toothpick, applied it to the top of the tie rod. After the epoxy cured, I clipped the pins off flush with the tie rod. Just be careful not to get epoxy between the tie rod and spindle. It's easier than it sounds here. My secret weapon for this kind of stuff is a 4x magnification jewejer's loup, available at any well stocked LHS. Good luck. For dash details, check out www.oldsmobility.com.

Nice color on that, evilone. Also, I like your bodywork molding the roof into place. Are you going to us the stock bumpers or the custom bits (either would look great)? I have one in the works that's going to be the convertible. I already streched a '62 T-Bird frame to fit under it. Keep us posted with your build.

Well, I got this one finished over the weekend, and it was a darn sight easier than the Plymouth. My only gripe (or issue, depending) was the fact that it took a while to get those %^$#&*@ vent windows in place. The particulars on this car are Tamiya gold leaf for the engine, Polly S Reefer White and Steam Power black for the interior and Dupli-Color Ford Candy Apple Red for the fenderwells. I love doing web research to help with my projects, and for anyone else doing a 442, go to www.oldsmobility.com. Oh yeah- I pulled the Cragars from AMT's '50 Ford, and the tires are AMT big and little Eagles. The exhaust tips are aluminum tubing, the carpet is Detail Master flocking and the plug wires are my home mades. Sorry 'bout the picture quality on the engine pic. Well, my History final's in an hour, so I gotta run. See y'all.

Thanks for the tip- though I'll hold off 'til I do another body. I'll grab the Revell GTX and strip the paint off the Satellite hood- I think it looks cooler.

Thanks for the tip- though I'll hold off 'til I do another body. I'll grab the Revell GTX and strip the paint off the Satellite hood- I think it looks cooler.

I dragged out the kit last night and took a look at it, assembled the block halves and came to the conclusion that it's an FE engine dummied up to look like I don't know what. It has the FE front cover and water pump, and an FE intake will fit perfectly on top. It does have a nice C6, however. And do you think someone would use stock Windsor exhaust manifolds on a drag car? What a mess.

Wow. You don't see Falcons every day, and one like that is very rare. Great job. Looks like you had to tub the snot outta that one.

This one has been much kinder to me than the Plymouth. This is the Lindberg kit with wheels from the AMT '50 Ford and AMT Eagles. It's Plastikote 1096 Dark Blue Metallic with Dupli-Color clear. She should be done next week.

Sometimes, you start a project with the best intentions, but then it seems as though the planets are suddenly aligned against you. Case in point- this car has a laundry list of flaws, from a cracked a- pillar and a body that refused to be coaxed into something resembling square, to decals and paint that pummeled me every step of the way. I'd gotten to where it sat in my case mocked up since last summer. Finally, I dragged the thing out two weeks ago and more or less finished it. This is the old Monogram kit painted Plastikote Brook Blue metallic with Dupli- Color clear. Aside from wheels, tires, flocking and wiring, it's a box stock build. Oh yeah- I lifted some headlight lenses from the spares so I wouldn't have the 'pupils'. It photographs well, and looks good behind glass, so until I get another body and decal sheet, I'm actually kinda happy with it.

So you're griping about gripping? What would that be?

I vote for real. Really.

Here's something I adapted from an old issue of Car Modeler- using RIT dye for coloring clear plastic. Several years ago, I bought a roll of white wire wrapping at Radio Shack. Find the RIT dye of your choice (wide color range) and grab an old saucepan that has outlived it's usefulness as a cooking utensil (you don't want to cook behind this stuff) and a small strainer. Mix a small amount according to the directions and bring it to a rolling boil for fivr minutes. Cut aff a section of wire (I've done as much as 3' at once) and place it in the strainer. Submerge in your dye mixture for about a minute. Repeat this process until you get the shade you desire. Good luck.

What Harrypri said. The cans are convenient, and when you're finished, you just clean the nozzle (although one day I'll bite the bullet and buy an airbrush).

Nice looking Chevy. I like the stance and color combo. Like the 6, also. Good work.

That is one gawjuss build, Ismael. You should post it under "Real or Model", because you had me scratching my head for a moment. One last thing- I'll trade you an ex-wife for it!

What's really ironic is that these same people are always dropping Chevy engines into Fords. Whenever I'm at a car show and see another Ford with a small bock Chevy in it, I yawn and walk off. I've had evil plans of dropping a DOHC 5.4 mod motor into a 'Vette just to annoy everyone.

What they said- that's a kick ^&* build. The in progress photos were very welcome- it's fun to see how others attack things.

A great job on one of my favorite Fords. Clean building, great color, great period. I'm with the others, though- more pics, please.

Well, here's one I just finished. One of those on again- off again deals that I've been playing with over a period of several years (and I finally got serious with it after finishing up my T-Bird). It's the 90's era AMT kit built mostly box stock, with a few additions. The color is Plasti-Kote #1586 Light Blue Metallic in their 'Truck and SUV' paint line. I didn't realize you needed a special paint for pickups and Prairie Schooners. After foiling and adding the decals last Friday, I sprayed it with Dupli-Color clear, and spent part of Monday and Tuesday nights polishing it out with a Detail Master polishing kit. I like the way the 'Mercury' badges turned out on the hood and deck. I foiled them before I shot the primer, and the polishing revealed nicely chromed scripts. The tailights are floating somewhere around my apartment, and after rummaging through the boxes I thought they may have wound up in and not locating said lenses, I mixed up a batch of 5-minute epoxy, tinted it with Tamiya Clear Red and flowed it into the openings with a toothpick. After curing overnight, I added the backup lights with Polly S Reefer White and a toothpick. The engine is box stock with the exception of wires (Radio Shack wire wrapping dyed with RIT dye), some Detail Master wire looms and heater hoses. The wheels are the Cragars from the AMT '65 Ford, and I added some knockoffs from the parts box (Cragar offered these as accessories) and painted the centers with Tamiya Clear Blue. I still have to add the fender badges. After some research (image searches are a wonderful thing), I found out that they're black with silver lettering, and I have the silver 'GT' letters on the decal sheet from the AMT '67 Mustang. I also found out (or actually reassured my memory) that the turn signals were clear with amber bulbs, so these two issues will be dealt with tonight. Thanks for looking. Ciao.

Is this for real or just a cruel hoax? I've been wanting a '61 Starliner for ages, and the '62 Sunliner would be icing on the cake. Please tell me this is real.

It's kinda like that 'Twilight Zone' episode where there's a dimensional anomaly in the house and the kid falls through. That, I'm certain, is what happens to my parts when they take leave. Almost like the socks that disappear from the dryer. Well, I have to get to the bus depot to get to my 3D class ("What a coincidental"- Curly Howard).

Jiminy Christmas- you're worried about a lack of replies? Happens all the time, and you never know what's gonna turn someone's crank. If I was worried about that, hell, I'd never post. You might also want to consider a remedial English course.