FloridaBoy

Jarius, We have a mutual friend who founded and owns Model Car Garage, and he parlayed his incredible model building talent and body shop skills into a Salt Lake winning car, then founded the photo etch line, and now he makes a very livable living. And when I see him occasionally, he looks to me like he is having a good time doing what he does. My family often tells me I am wasting my talent by only doing small jobs, but my talent is pale in comparison. I am telling you that your God given talent pretty much dictates that you shouls leave your legacy on our society. I kept your calendar although the years are long past, because the designs on the month covers adorn my place. I am not a nutty fan, I admire talent. There are lots of incredibly talented people on this forum, who have already inspired me to depaint, re-do, and repaint my cars because I want to operate within their level of standard quality models. You sort of owe it to us, and this is the time to start. You already are more than halfway there with your design portfolio. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

We aren't done with you yet, Jarius, I am a 60 year old modeler who has been building model cars for many many years, even before the '58 line of AMT 3in1 kits. I have been around for the entire cycle of model cars from beginning to right now. First, I think that most of the contributors in this forum are pretty good modelers, and model to a high standard, and inspire others to improve and excel. But you are the guy. The guy. I used to buy Car Model and Scale Auto magazines if your designs were in them, and buy the mags when your cars were featured. Augie may have been the ultimate model car builder, but you are the ultimate model car designer. I just accumulated a lot of mags and just took some time leafing through them and your work sits high and above other graphic designers. And that is only the quality part, you also have the demented mind to come up with some of your designs, and that is a compliment. Then comes your modeling. I was sold on your work since the Concept 32. And you are a Salt Lake winner. You probably do not realize your rep within the industry. I also perceive you are quite the humble type person, but this is a downturn economy and this could be a time to parlay those talents into something lucrative without losing your independence. My close modeling friend, Jeff Selker in Miami, is an airbrushing artist of the highest caliber. He makes a decent living airbrusing art and flames and scallops and designs on vans, pickup trucks, motorcycle tanks, and cars. There is a guy in your area, named Michael something, who works for Foose on Overhaulin' and Rides on Discovery named Killer Paint. He commands the big bucks and you are as good if not better than he. So this message can be nutshelled two ways. First, a paint job is worth $100, but a Jarius paint job may command more. and Second, to expand those talents into something. I got a lot of airbrushing work by going to auto body shops and motorcylcle shops in the area and leaving a sample of my work and a business card. That may be an answer. Good luck, but I wish you even more than that, good hunting and may the wind be to your back and fill your sails. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I had 2 '59 El Camino's over the years, and did nothing to either of them. One I used for parts including the chassis for a '49 Merc I built. Believe it or not, with very very little work, that chassis fits on that shell like a glove. Then my second, I was going to construct, but it sat on my work desk for some time, while I got a Chevelle El Camino, which I sectioned and now trying to complete. I sold the second '59 just because I didn't have an inspiration to go crazy on it. That is until I looked at your photo...... so here goes......... Shorten the bed behind the rear wheel well, enlarge the rear well, do a mild section to it, cut off the roof to make a convertible'roadster pickup, put large sound system in the bed, get the biggest honkiest 454Chev big block with the biggest darn intake system, then roll the front pans, blend in the rear bumper, paint it silver metallizer pearl with light purple/violet scallops. See, your picture just inspired my otherwise bovine spirit and came up with an unreal model, only if I had the skills to carry that one out. just a thought.............. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I have a lot of models that I built over the years starting from the early sixties. All are on display in my hutch in my dining room perfectly protected from the elements. One morning over coffee at my table, I was just glancing at my cars, and pending projects, some of which are my older cars which I am re-vamping with new detail, and finish. These were those that the finish chipped or faded over the years, or the body putty bled through. Then I saw something. It seems like I built in phases. One model was all it took to get me to the next plane. I still have an old AMT Deuce roadster that I built when they first came out. I opened up a door and glued it in the open position, used red velvet ribbon for upholstery, handpainted the entire model, and it included more imagination that workmanship. The next model was my breakout model. After getting inspiration from the Rod & Custom article about sectioning the '49 Ford, I took a '50 Ford Convertible while in the hospital (car accident) and sectioned it with tools and glue smuggled in by mu parents. On this model after I got home, I used AMT body putty for the first time, then painted the car with Pactra Candy paint, then used an Ulrich interior kit my mother bought for am as a present. Then started to use thread for spark plug wires on my AMT Pontiac Parts motor. When it was done, I was even amazed at the work I did, which inspired me to build several other cars with the same approach, which proved to win several contests for several years. Success can be a blessing and a curse. It locked me in a style, which soon got out of style. So, in the eighties I looked for another approach, more detail but still I was way behind. But I built a '36 Ford Roadster and '40 Ford Coupe as my breakouts back then, which were Ok but not world beaters. Then in the nineties, I built some cars again, with a '49 Merc which I chopped the top added aftermarket stuff, and a Boyd Aluma Coupe pearl yellow finish which again was mildly successful, and now building several cars which will all be breakouts. I am using detail kits, aftermarket parts, fuzzy fur, two tones, and hope to herald in a new change in my style. Hopefully among the failures there will be one or two breakout models. Do you guys have the same experience or are your cars evolutionary? Just curious. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I am just finishing up 12 models as I prefer to build a bunch at a time rather than just one. After reading your posts, and really appreciate Jarius's input, as I consider him the premier car designer along with Chip Foose in America Today. Thanks for the attention, Jarius. A little memory blog came to me at the last 3 contests. More than one contestant participaing in our contest experienced wheel/tire failure. Even though every guy took great care to pack and transport his models, it seems that wheels are the first thing to break off. And it seems those guys never bring a rescue tool box with basic tools and gluesm then use Borrowed tools and glue to make the repair. And under the pressure of others looking on. he makes a "quick fix" and often glues the wheel on with less than the care he had in the comfort of his home workbench. So, with that in mind, I took a tiny drill, some brass rod and tubing, and tap a small hole in the axle end, inserting the tube with 2 part expoxy. Then drill a hole in the wheel and insert the brass rod just ever so slightly, then mount the wheel to the axle just by pressing it on. If it is too loose, add a film of silicone and it will turn just like a real wheel with the brake pads providing the minor resistance. I make very simple and strong hinges out of the same materials, and have had very good success with my models, warping and strength issues are not a factor anymore. I apply hinges to all of my doors and trunks, and do not hinge my hoods, as many of my cars are thirties with droop over hoods, and if hinged will cover the engine. If you want to display the engine, the hood would have to hinge way too much. So I am thinking of making a removable type hinge so the hood can be removed. Same for sunroofs. I do not hinge or slide sunroofs. I just put in a few pieces of plastic underneath to keep them from falling through. When I display my cars at a show, I put the hood and sunroof to the side, so the judge can pick up my car and look around it. I try to build in enough strength to my models to minimize how fragile they are. I encourage judges to handle my cars, adn when you do pick them up, parts hopefully do not fall off. I really appreciate all of your input so far, and if you see me at a contest, hopefully we can talk about our models. I have my habits, hangups, opinions, predispositions, and style so recognizable now that my fellow club members can tell my cars on the table. I am trying to break out of these and it is difficult for an older person who is so solid in their ways. I often look at a model kit and try to envision a model that I will build to "break out" and define a new style of mine. Just once, I would love to hear when someone is looking at one of my cars, "I wonder who built that"? Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

A couple of years ago, I held a large "yard sale" to sell off my excess model kits, all in perfect condition with parts still on their sprues. I put them out on a Saturday morning after notifying my model car club that I would be selling off a lot of my collection. So I set them out, and guys showed up and I sold all but a few kits, a few I decided to keep, a few that didn't sell, and a few others that sold later. One member bought all of my Johan kits, and at the time, I still had my predisposition toward Johann and put these marvelous kits in the $2 pile, imagine the "60 Desoto, Chrysler 300, Plymouth Belvedere, Sox and Martin Challenger and the Titanium Pinto going for $2. The saving grace part is that member is carefully storing the kits and has no intention to build them or sell them. He just wants to preserve them, and I am thankful for that.

Appreciate your comments. I do want to clarify that my wheels turn not roll freely. Even if they roll loosely, I add a slight film of silicone to slow them down. I just want to ensure my wheels do not bind with the inside of the fender, wheel well, and show some operational integrity. I tried adding working lights and found them too gimmicky, and have approached that my models have working features only for a particular function. Right now, I am struggling with glues and strength, and now using drill holes and pins for maximum strength. It used to kill me to see a great model being touched up on the table by the builder because a piece fell off in transport. Always not the perfect arena to make such a repair. Our contest on Nov 9-11 will be held at the Deerfield Railraod Museum, which boasts several model railroad layouts, and the cooperation between the two sets of modelers is at an all time high. I am fortunate enough to be member of both clubs, and there is a terrific work area for guys to make repairs with the maximum affordable workspace available to ensure comfortable workmanship. We want to give eveyone a chance. Learning from those calamities, I try to make my models super strong, even to side mirrors and the such. Since my available attachment space is taken up, I will try to rectify the situation and start posting pictures of my almost completed work in progress that I will unveil at our November contest. Hope you guys like them. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Appreciate your comments. I do want to clarify that my wheels turn not roll freely. Even if they roll loosely, I add a slight film of silicone to slow them down. I just want to ensure my wheels do not bind with the inside of the fender, wheel well, and show some operational integrity. I tried adding working lights and found them too gimmicky, and have approached that my models have working features only for a particular function. Right now, I am struggling with glues and strength, and now using drill holes and pins for maximum strength. It used to kill me to see a great model being touched up on the table by the builder because a piece fell off in transport. Always not the perfect arena to make such a repair. Our contest on Nov 9-11 will be held at the Deerfield Railraod Museum, which boasts several model railroad layouts, and the cooperation between the two sets of modelers is at an all time high. I am fortunate enough to be member of both clubs, and there is a terrific work area for guys to make repairs with the maximum affordable workspace available to ensure comfortable workmanship. We want to give eveyone a chance. Learning from those calamities, I try to make my models super strong, even to side mirrors and the such. Since my available attachment space is taken up, I will try to rectify the situation and start posting pictures of my almost completed work in progress that I will unveil at our November contest. Hope you guys like them. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Since I build my cars for close inspection, I usually add a working feature and/or a method to get a better look at the interior. So, I open doors, trunks, and even make sunroofs even on sectioned models. I have taught myself over the years to make a quick strong, virtually hidden hinge that allows entry and visual inspection of the insides and trunks. But my other approach and hang up is much more work. I try to have rolling wheels on all my cars. My older cars just had my wheels glued on and in a fixed state, except for my favorite '40 which I lowered quite a bit, but wanted to ensure the wheels cleared the inside wheel housings. So I used some brass tubing and rod and made mini-axles on the aftermarket wheels and after many many hours they came out ok. Now, when I glue a wheel on a car, it is only for mock-up and one of my last functions (I am a major procrastinator) is to make the mini rolling wheel contraptions on each axle. My wheels roll independently. But the car does not roll, and you do not push them to prod them along. But the wheels do roll when held, only to demonstrate they do not bind against the wheel housing and to add a minimal and now required level of functionality to my finished cars. So, guys, what do you do, glue the wheels in place or use the factory applied methods of wheel/tire installation or make your own, I submit to you guys as to me you are the experts in this country. Just take a look at the work under glass or in progress, and the level of the playing field is very high. I am looking for your opinion and practices. Thanks in advance, Spending way too much time on a minor function, but stuck on the inclination. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I've been thinking about Johann and after reading about them in old mags, and passing them up although I knew they made a pretty decent kit, I think a factor of my youth was that I was a label jockey. When I was young, I was sort of conditioned that the name label was the only quality on the market, and evreything else was a cheap imitator. Plus, who wanted back then to model a Cadillac Hearse, or Rambler or Desoto or Oldsmobile. Today, great inspirational customs and concept cars have been created from all of these cars, and now, I am saying, "Darn". Then in the late seventies and eighties Johann came out with their Ramchargers, Great Funny Cars, ProStocks, Mavericks, Comets, etc etc etc, and I was still label oriented. Heck, I even remember that one time saying to myself looking at a Maverick Johann kit, "Hey, I'll wait until AMT makes it". Idiot. Now, the only thing I have left of any Johann is the 429 Ford motor from the Maverick Funny Car, probably my best motor, which I put a new fuel injection unit in it, for installation in my kitbashed '41 Ford Convertible. When I get attachment space, I have a bunch of pictures, and will post them when the space comes available to me. But, again, those Johann kits were my major mistake of the hobby, compounded again and again over the last 40 years, and sometimes I think I am not alone. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Fast Floyd, You lucky Devil!!!! I have a weakness for the '61 Ford that goes WAY BACK. I built about 3 or 4 of them back in '61 and '62, which came out OK. But, my crowning achievement '61 Galaxie Styline kit was one of my favorite builds. I sectioned it and cut out the hood, added the all chrome engine from the '57 T-Bird. Then I sectioned the front styling headlights, fabricated a roll pan in the back, opened up both doors with working hinges and painted it Candy Rasperry. I entered it in 1970 at the Hollywood Hobbyrama in Hollywood Florida, and took Grand Prize of all Hobbies but when I went to pick my car collection up, it was stolen along with 2 of my other favorite builds. I was devastated. Then in 1972, I was having a surfboard made for me at a bicycle/hobby/surf shop in Delray Beach, and because I was springing for the best board the owner could make, he gave me a '61 Ford Styline from the hobby portion of the store. Over the next 10 years I slowly built on it, to recreate the one I lost. And lo and behold in 2003, I finally had it completely mocked up primered and ready to paint. I was hospitalized in 2003, and my wife as a surprise cleaned out my garage (really my hobby room) and inadvertently threw out 12 of my favorite projects including that Galaxie, and another sectioned '59 Ford I did at the same time. Again, I was devastated even climbing up in a hot attic in Florida summer thinking she stored the models up there. No go, she threw them out. Then this idiot ignored the kit reissue under the AMT Builders series a few years back, thinking it will be perpetually available. Wrong!!!! Now, I am lurking every model car contest for another Galaxie styline kit or even a '61 Starliner coupe. I have faith, and will find one soon. But in the meantime, promise me you will take great care of that '61 you have now. Regards, Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Gregg, Could you do the same for me, too? I think I forgot to delete the space used when logging out after I posted, and still have 387K used and now am unable to post any more pictures. Would appreciate it greatly, and post correctly next time. Thanks. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

The purpose of this thread is to convey some of the stuff I have learned over the past few months building and painting my models. In the Golden Era, I used to prime only when I had the paint, then undercoat, then paint Pactra Candies and Metallics on one day, and in those often circumstances a glitch happened, it made my day rotten from the start. Nowadays, things are different. With the advent of terrific paints and solvents, if you make a mistake you can go right on and correct it without reversing the entire painting process. What used to take me a day to paint a car, now takes over a week or more overall. Plus, based on my own situation of trial and error, I have come up with what works for me best. I am not exclusively an airbrush painter, but use spray cans pretty much as well. So, here goes. The first step is primer. Now I primer everything, even parts on motors that I intend to handpaint. Why, because the primer is a good background and holds paint evenly so you do not have bunching up at the cracks and crevices. I have taken so much advice when it comes to primers, I was getting pretty discouraged because not every primer treats a model well. So far I have eliminated Testor's Primers as they do not cover well, and dry too slowly, and still can react to paint above it. Same goes for other enamels, so now I use Duplicolor primers I get at the Auto Parts stores, and they seal the cars whether I use a lacquer, enamel or urethane based paint. I also primer the entire car underneath the shell and on both sides of the chassis, even where not seen. This prevents overspray from reacting the plastic, and your model is completely protected. I have also found that there are two Duplicolor primers available, and in three colors, white, gray and red. I use gray most of the time, and find all spray on very evenly, are forgiving regarding runs and too thick coats, fill the little scratch and sand marks well, and protect the plastic from just about every chemical invader. There are TWO (2) DupliColor Primers. One is called Filler Primer, which is very grainy, and covers very well, needing only about 1 coat at most, but somewhat grainy when complete. This grainy surface is designed to fill those little scratchmarks, sand marks, blemishes, etc that your fine sandpaper just didn't get to. I use this primer only on certain bodies in which I did a significant amount of body work which will need the fine detailed filling. It needs to be sanded, with both fine dry and about 2000 grit wet, then ready for either undercoating or another coat of primer. The second primer is called Sealer Primer. This has a smoother finish, and is designed to be the final primer before undercoating. It also is a stong protector, and I use it when I build a car with a lot of molded on details, which needs little clean up and will retain the details. It too, produces a very smooth finish. Often I apply a light coat of this over the filler primer just to inspect the body work I did. You need to make sure both primers finish are not touched or recoated for a couple of days at the least to give the paint time to settle in, then take a magnifying glass or opti-visor and go over the model searching and correcting any missed areas, such as mold marks, parting lines, sink marks, and other imperfections. So this concludes the primer process. I am learning to build models to compete with some of the hot modelers in my club, not to mention those guys throughout the state and on this forum 00who have a long head start in really getting down to painting a model with a superlative finish. I am not writing this because I have a particular expertise about painting, but I do have some creds with body work, and if you do really apply yourself in this area, you will be rewarded with a paint finish that will last for years. I have two cars that I did correctly back in '65 completely by accident that still have a competitive sheen. To me primer is a very important foundation to any model. Without a proper primed surface, you will see many many imperfections to the finish of any good model. I have seen some really great models with silver or white showing through at door jambs, chrome trlm and other spots, and when judging, I really down these unprimed cars with lots of points deducted. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Now that I have read this thread and there are others who like Johann models as much as I do now, maybe we could get something going. Maybe a Johann revisited. Surely there are guys out there that have a Johann kit which we were discussing, and all we would need is the body, interior tub, engine block and manifold, and other parts to make it a decent start up model, then we could somehow make a committment to a resin caster of us purchasing so many kits, have that model owner lend his model to the resin caster, then return it with a little payment. We would buy up the resin kits, like the Olds F85, Caddilacs, Ranblers, Mavericks, Comets, and the like, as they are cast, and everyone makes out. We get the "lost Johann" kits, the resin caster gets business and gets it easy as he probably could cast his piece from a styrene master very easy compared to a built up model, the owner and caster makes a few bucks and voila!!! That is if there is interest and a little income. Maybe if there are enough of us, and we do one kit at a time, we could start something. I have no ulterior motive except to recapture those lost Johann models I sold a few years ago for practically nothing. I for one would like to see that neat 60 Desoto cast as a resin kit. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I came here because it is a terrific magazine and website. I have enjoyed the mag, Gregg's editorials and Jairus's art and models so much, it is just an inspiration just to browse around. I was "fired" from my job at the last model car contest we held because I spent so much time talking to the guys about their cars while they were entering them. I was a bottleneck, and at 60 still have the high level of enthusiasm and I really don't know why. Then comes the icing. I really had no expectations when I first browsed on work in progress and finished work, and the stuff you guys showed me was just out of the world. I enjoy talking cars and model cars, and really like participating on internet forums. I am a member of 3 model railroading forums (yeah, I do that too), this and the other mag's forum, but spend an infinite more time here. Because of the models and topics. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I think these advertisers could give a rat's patoot if the words to the music had anything remote to do with the car. They are appealing to a certain market, people who are of the age to enjoy that music because they were younger, more energetic, and more carefree to spend money on a car in those days. Some of it is horrific, and some of it works. What worked for me were those Mercedes Benz commercials a few years ago, with Etta James singing, "At Last". To me it was majic that the music and the theme and surroundings matched the car so well, and the only thing that kept me from buying a MB was my wallet, or lack of it, so to speak. We are a very mucical society, and advertisers and marketers will use it for time eternity, whether it works or not. They will keep trying, because I think way down deep they really do not know the key as to what is effective and what isn't. Now my rant on box art. I have been a modeler for many many years, and seen both golden times of the hobby, as well as the depressions. The commonality is not only alternative activities available to people, but box art is woefully lacking. In times when the hobby is hurting, it seems like a suicidal tendency on menufacturers' part is to take any resemblance to creativity and attractiveness in box art and literally throw it out the window. Even today, some box art is really effective. Some standouts were the Revell '32 Ford 3 Window Coupe and the '40 Ford Convertible and Standard Coupe. What really stunk up the place was the original "orange" 37 Ford sedan, with its ridiculous orange plastic color. How many coats of primer does it take to keep that orange plastic from bleeding? Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I have been modeling for many many years, and being an old guy, and traditional type modeler, I have those hang-ups and baggage that comes with the territory. Now I regret many of the preconceptions of years past. One of them is that I had to do major bodywork to every car I worked on, such as chopping, channeling, sectioning, etc etc, which can really get you in a rut. Second, I am way too old to really jump on the bandwagon that guys are making street machines, rods and customs out of cars that one never thought would fly, such as Lincolns, Continentals, Oldsmobiles, Buicks, and the like. Heck, I just finished a 37 Cord I made into a street rod, but as I look back, I regret the total bigotry that I had toward Johan model cars. Back in the sixties, I had the opinion they made imitation 3in1 kits of what AMT didn't make, such as DeSoto's, Oldsmobiles, Caddys, Ramblers, and other obtuse cars. I did buy a DeSoto back then, and even admired the details and the motor, but focused on the fact there were way too few custom parts, instead of the model. In the seventies and eighties, I began to show appreciation, but not total objectivity toward Johann, and when I had the chance would buy AMT any day of the week. Now that Johann is essentially gone, I heard that several of the employees who were owed money took some of the toolings from the company, leaving the model car world without some of the jewels they made. I don't know what is missing, but in my book, the Mickey Thompson Titanium Pinto was a classic, out classing the AMT and MPC funny cars of that time. They also did great jobs with the Challenger and Barracuda drag cars, the Comet and Maverick funny cars were beautiful with those big 429 motors, and there I was buying 40 and 40 Fords, and here I am with about 50 AMT 40 and 49 Fords which I will never build. But looking at old Car Models and Model Cars and SAE mags, I see the selection that Johann offered, and really wished not only me, but the rest of the model car world gave it the support it deserved. This company failed because it was so far ahead, we couldn't adjust, at least in my opinion. I know that Okie Spaulding purchased what was left of Johann, and wish him luck, and maybe some of those employees with the pilfered toolings will be offered amnesty and give Johann a chance to run some of these jewels. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Before you do any work on it, if I were you, I would evaluate what I plan for the future of the car. First, let me say as a modeler for over 50 years, that car is one of the more beautiful models I have ever seen done to this type of car. If I were a judge, I would award it 10 on a 10 scale in the "judge's discretion" or wow factor category. However, if you plan to display it only, I would fix the spoiler and leave it as it is. If you plan to enter it in judged categories, you seem not to be real content with the finished product, such as finish, etc, although it looks fine to me, I would carefully take it apart, put on a polishing kit to it, fix the taillight, and get rid of all of those little flaws. Judges these days use magnifying glasses, and you do not want this beauty to be judged down on point. If I were you, I would make the superficial repairs, display it on non-compete tables or enter it in audience vote contests, and enjoy the overall effect of this model. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Hey guys, Old FloridaBoy needs a little technical help. I have asked the website a couple of times and have not received an answer in over a month, so maybe you can help me out. I posted some photos of some of my old work by attaching them to an earlier post, and used the browse/upload process with jpeg files. I used about 400K of attachment space, then entered my photos, but my attachment phase is still used up. Although I have some more photos of my work in process, I cannot post anything because my attachment space is filled to 387K of space, and a photo is about 125K of space. Is there any way to clear the attachment space I used up? I have tried booting off, rebooting, logging out, etc, and searching for somewhere this stuff is stored for me. I have only posted 3 photos and cannot post any more until this is resolved. What can I do. I think now what I should have done when posting before is to delete the photo file in Browse, before logging out, but I left them listed like you do in email. Thanks, in advance for any advice to resolve my situation, Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

As a certified pack rat, scrounger, and accumulation junkie, who is into model railroading and model cars with equal zeal, I have had my share of good deals and being in the right time at the right place, along with missing out on some good deals, too. There is nothing more pleasurable to me than scoring a major hit for veryfew dollars or stuff in trade. However, my model car buddy and fellow builder Jeff, scored the deal of the century a couple of weeks ago. He was contacted through a mutual friend of his by a recently widowed lady whose husband was a prolific model car builder, and she wanted to get rid of his model collection, supplies, and materials. He ended up with about 200 kits, many of them oop and real collectors stuff, (for example, the original AlaKart/29 Model A, the Double Dragster, stuff I have never heard of lest seen) plus tools, a new state of the art paint booth, every Model Cars and Scale Auto mag since '98, trucks, planes, paint, air brushes and compressors and the list goes on and on. He has at least 30 copy paper sized boxes with kits sticking out now temporarily stored in his dining room. Geeeessshhhh!!!! He asked me considering the circumstances how much he paid for it. I told him at the very least, and if the seller was totally desperate, 500 bucks. He floored me when he told me 130 bucks. The funny thing is the story of the negotiation. She originally asked 100 bucks for the entire lot, and Jeff did not want to hoodwink her, so he told her 200, and she said that was too much, so they ultimately agreed on the 130. Out of that stash, he already doubled his investment back by selling off the duplicates or stuff he wasn't into. I sprung for the mags, and now can brag that I have every Model Cars magazines printed. Beats any deal that I hold proud by a million, that is for sure. Jeff is a super good guy so he deserves all of the rewards offered from this transaction. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I am a long time custom car builder and probably have gone through more tubes of different puttys than just about anyone out there. I started in '61 with Plastic Wood, which was horrible, until AMT Putty came out, then that was great. I found with a TLC that AMT putty will not shrink, craze, chip, disintegrate over time, and I still have 2 models which have AMT putty and they are holding up as if the day I painted them. I used AMT putty until discontinued, then sort of drifted away from the hobby for awhile, but still did some body work on some old cars using old tubes. Then in the mid eighties, I tried Testors Putty (lousy), the Sherwin Williams Spot Glazing Putty, (Ok, but shrank and needed several thin coats), then Squadron Green (ok), then Squadron White. I had a terrible experience with my favorite '40 Ford custom when re-doing it with Squadron White. I was rebuilding a quarter panel benind the door, and it caved the entire door in. What a mess, and I fixed it, in about 6 weeks, and now the car is ok, but I do not use Squadron White or Green now. Then I went to an auto store and found that bar of expoxy like the old Milliput, all you ahve to do is to cut off a section, twist and mix it, then dabble it on. This worked, but in a few months it bled through my several coats of primer, underbase paint top coat and clear. Again, trial and error. By now, I was really forming a demand and expectation as to what I wanted in a putty. Pliable like soft clay, dries quick and has some strength, bonds to plastic without killing it, doesn't craze, or cave in, or bleed through, and sands easily. Then by accident I found it at Discount Auto Parts store. Bondo in the tube!!!! Great stuff!!!!! First, I use the one part mixture, but several guys in my club tell me the two part works well, too. It goes on easy, fills, sculpts, molds, sands and dries quickly, doesn't shrink, or fail in any way. I swear by that stuff. The only drawback is that it makes a real mess of the "sawdust" when you sand it. It wet sands perfectly and doiesn't wilt from the more rigid plastic. I always use a large fingernail file first, then go to fine sanding and at the most, use only one of two coats, and it is ready for primer. Nothing has bled through in a year, no shrinkage no nothing except like the old days of AMT putty!!!!! So I keep a roll of paper towels on hand all of the time, for clean up and it dusts right off clothes. Because I use my hands to apply the putty, it washes off, or when dried, just sands right off my fingerprints. All this for 4 bucks a large tube which should do about 20 cars. Nothing better. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

I'll vote for real, look at the reflections in the hub caps, as I have never seen any model do that. Ken "Adrian Monk" Willaman (hahahahah)

Duplicolor primer is to me the best, and it comes in different textures so you can pretty much tailor it to your model. I have experimented with both Duplicolor, Krylon, and Testors, and have had no problems. I will apply enamel (Krylon and Testors) over lacquer (Duplicolor (primer too) but not vice versa, as in some colors on test pieces, Duplicolor will attack the enamel paint but not right away, it takes a while because of the chemical reaction. So, as a rule of thumb, I use Duplicolor Primer on every model I build. Then paint it with my select paint, and do a fine sanding. Then I clear it with either enamel or lacquer, preferably enamel as it does polish to a nice sheen. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Back in '66, I renewed my subscription to Car Model just because they did this article. Ever since day one, I have built customs, street rods, street machines and by the late sixties, putty throwers were getting rarer, which I was, and CM was devoted to slot cars, beastie rods, weird-ohs, and other tangential stuff that I could not relate to. I did try to adjust by building funny cars for awhile, but in '70, I took my first hiatus. That Merc will always live in my heart. I was inspired by this, and took my own Merc and sectioned it using the Rod & Custom 3 part series years before as a guide. I put in quad lights similar to this one, and quad taillights like the Cushenberry '56 Ford. Then I opened the doors and primed it. While waiting for paint, I was hospitalized with a serious health problem and my wife with good intentions to clean the garage for my return, inadvertently threw it and several other projects thinking they were "junky old cars", not like the pretty ones on our display case in the living room. Now, I just bought a Revell Merc, and the recently re-issued "Rides" verson of the AMT '49 Merc. I am building the Revell model box stock, which is generally what I do when I get a newly tooled model, which I plan to purchase and build severl more. The AMT Merc will be sectioned, not chopped, no skirts, with a flathead motor, with working doors. I did cut out a sunroof in the Revell model to allow people to see the detailing and finishing I did to the cockpit. Great work, and keep it up. You got talent. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

Chromecop, That model is definitely OUT THERE!!! Why do I love it so much? Because our hobby needs more guys like you and that model. Doing insane things but showing them with excellent technique and workmanship. Now, I have a problem. That cop face will haunt me forever!!!! Please keep us posted up until the final drop of glue is done. Again, thanks. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman