Jump to content
Forum will be Offline for Server Maintenance ×
Model Cars Magazine Forum

jwrass

Members
  • Posts

    848
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jwrass

  1. Just give him a light coat of tuna fish oil and he's good to go.

    TEEN EXPLOITATION MOVIE ALERT!!!!!!!

    "High School Hellcats", starring Yvonne Lime is on right now on TCM!!!!! MUST-SEE-TV!!!!!

    High-School-Hellcats-1958-2.thumb.jpg.0a
     

    " And points all her own sittin' way up high, way up firm and high"

  2. Hey Kids.... Like a bad penny I'm back..............

    Five 4 Friday.....

    1) Layin' down one night, Papa tell Mama

        Well... Papa tell Mama

    2) You tell lies thinking I can't see

        You can't cry cause your laughing at me

    3) She had me runnin', she had me ridin'

        She had me runnin', hidin', ridin', runnin'

    4) Been away, haven't seen you in a while

        How've you been? Have you changed your style

    5) Hey Yeah Yeah

        I was a sailor, I was lost at sea

        I was under the waves before love rescued me

     

    Have a great weekend!!!! Peace Jimmy "RASS" 

     

  3. To get the leaf to stick to the Gilders Tip the tip needs to be charged with static Electricity, to perform this procedure you simply rub the ends of the Gilders tip though your hair in a rapid back and forth motion to create the charge like this...pictures62414015_zps4d61bebd.thumb.jpg.7

    As you can see by the picture I am not using a Gilders tip.... It's a cheapo nylon brush..... it will work in a pinch however the Gilders Tip is much more effective.

    (I'm running out of area's to create a charge) Now that the Gliding tip is charged it's time to pick up some leaf and lay it down.

    In a swooping motion touch the edge of one of the strips that have been previously cut and pick up the leaf.... it should hang from the end of the tip as in the photo

    pictures62414017_zpsfd805a7e.thumb.jpg.9

    Note: This is a very delicate procedure.... slow and deliberate movements and a calm environment is a must.

    Approach the sized areas and simply lay the leaf into the size....the leaf will actually somewhat be sucked into the size.pictures62414020_zps9ae7b6d4.thumb.JPG.d

    pictures62414018_zpse02e1b9b.thumb.jpg.1

    Continue to lay the leaf on the sized areas...After the leafs are applied gently push the leaf into the sized area's with a cotton ball.

    Next up: Burnishing The Leaf

    P.S. It won't be four months

     

  4. That was a long phone call................Right!

    My last post was in January..... I apologize for the delay..... I have been having some Medical issues.....Hence the delay!

    Let's get back to laying some leaf. The size has been applied to the areas you want to leaf and a swatch of size has been brushed out and the time recorded. Recording the time and the swatch of size is so very important...........This will make or break how the leaf lays on the surface.

    For modeling I would recommend a fast size........This size starts to tack up in about 30-45 minuets.

    ...........................................The Knuckle Test..................................

    To apply the leaf the size has to be just right...On the swatch area lightly touch the size with one of your Knuckles (I use my index finger) when you touch it the size it should have a slight tack and not leave a impression (a delicate touch here) drag your knuckle across the swatch and it should have a slight tack and have a low squeak sound...............The size is now ready for the leaf.

    To apply the leaf you will need one of these..... A Gilders Tip. This tool will transfer the leaf to the areas that are sized

     IMG_0788.thumb.JPG.a85c43a54d9f1d47de19a

     

  5.  

    Geez.  Guys, it's only a model.  Even though this project is not in the "Workbench" forum, it's still a WIP.  Here's a quote from the Workbench;

    "Rules for On The Workbench

    For those viewing others who are presenting their works in progress in this section of the forum, please keep your criticisms, sarcasms, and other comments to yourself, unless the builder/poster has specifically asked for such replies".

    Maybe it would be better to let guys build there models as they see fit, and be a little more friendly.

    The above entry is a fine example of why I don't visit the Drag Forum much anymore.

    Jesse, I don't know if the apology was directed at me or the forum or me either way it's all good, However I do want to clarify a few things

    1) The photos I posted were from my research folder for this build.... All depicting a four port injector. Back in he early 70s when Revell was making a small fortune off the backs of race car drivers. Purported Sponsorships were 1 body per year (Approx. $1,500.00) and 1 paint job (Approx. $1,000.00) plus contingency $$$$ based on  national ratings.

  6. You know that car in the Garlits Museum is a flat nose car that was updated with a slant nose, right?

    Jesse,

    And your point would be what? That you are a expert on all things JJ. I can call Big himself, Mr J or Glen.... All personal friends (see Profile)

    Based on my Posts you mostly look as if you are not a expert!!! At least not on this car!!!!!! I'm here to share modeling with a bunch of great builders and friends. Not to prove my race car prowess.................ENOUGH.... Go Hassle some other thread!

    Respectfully, Jimmy "RASS" 

  7. Actually, the 8 Port Crower Injector is correct for this car. 

     

    I don't think so...... Of course I was absent the day we learned to count to eight........ lol

    images0KTQ5Y7T.jpg

    images9XJDI1FC.jpg

    imagesPVZEWTYL.jpg

    Jungle-Jim.jpg

    Untitled-50.jpg

    images2Q5V8DNV.jpg 

    I just saw this car on display at Big Daddy's Museum In Ocala, Fla (1971 Vega) Yep Four Port Hilbourn

  8. Jimmy, mock-up is looking good. I saw JJ many, many times in Maryland back in the day (Capitol, Budds Creek, Aquasco speedways) and still love thinking back to the good old days of the sport. I will be watching you progress on this. I built his Camaro F/C a few years back and did alot of mods to build it as close to prototype as possible. I have pics on my website (protechmodelparts.com) if you would like to check it out (Model Car Gallery/Pro Tech builds).

    Charlie

    Pro Tech

    Charlie,

    Saw JJ many times back the day myself! If anyone could stand on the loud pedal for 1/8 (sometimes longer) mile Burnouts it was JJ. He truly had NO FEAR and Pam............

    Love Your Products and builds..... Many PROTECH goodies will be on this one!!!

    Jimmy "RASS"

  9. Mike

    Southern Motor Sports Hobbies has a 1969/70 resin body & Decals (SMH resins pg 1)

    I have a few of their bodies and they are very nice! I would agree that a Polar Lights would make for a great platform.

    Other bodies would be from Revell 69 COPO and Revell 69 Yenko

    IMO Tin work will need to be modified or fabricated to depict 1:1 That's half the fun!

    Hope this helps!

    Jimmy "RASS" 

     

     

  10. BMF/Leaf Update # 2)                            .....................  Laying The Leaf......................

    In the last installment I stated that before you lay down the size for your shinny bits you have to paint a patch of size off to the side

    This step is very CRTICAL as this will make or break how the leaf lays down! I also stated that you need to record the time at which

    you laid that patch of size down. This patch and time will be the measure of when you lay the leaf down!

    Much like BMF, leafing is a skill that will have to be practiced to achieve success. it's not magic! However IMO the results give you

    more options and flexibility as compared to BMF as you will see as we progress.

    059_zpsb9d7d889.thumb.jpg.06ab08bd996ebb073_zpsbdd13cab.thumb.JPG.e613462f839694

    In my initial post I failed to mention the Body I selected  for this tutorial it is a 1959 El Camino. The reason I chose this body is if you look at the trim it has concave, convex and compound curves, Also the windscreen post has a very

    complex curvature. 

    NOTE: I will return to continue, I got a important phone call I had to take Sorry

     

     

     

    073_zpsbdd13cab.JPG

  11. JJ Update #3

    Got some bench time in today while watching the play-offs

    IMG_0657_(2).thumb.JPG.794935b8fd427486a

    Buy lowering the body the upper tin work now sat on the injector hat. This needs to be fixed

    IMG_0659_(2)_-_Copy.thumb.JPG.75064c1756

    Cut upper tin work to raise opening for injector hat clearance.

    IMG_0669.thumb.JPG.167be1609bbaa9269ffc4

     

    IMG_0675_-_Copy.thumb.JPG.4471d6f6e10827

     Modification to tin work complete (to scale) Injector hat in kit is incorrect. JJ ran a four port Hilbourn injector hat not a eight

    IMG_0665.thumb.JPG.daf56551b5ed129b8119c

    Kit supplied injector hat incorrect. Eight port

    IMG_0680.thumb.JPG.393208c9442235763c86b

    Aftermarket four port Hilbourn correct

    671GMC-A.thumb.jpg.4a3a4b600a7b55166611e

    Thank You for looking

    Jimmy "RASS"

     

     

  12. JJ Update #2)

    I was able to get some bench time in last night. I'm putting the worms back in the can!

    IMG_0662.thumb.JPG.2c3ee60f38eb58ee01f51

    As stated in last post, when I lower the rear end mounting points the seat no longer fit down in the chassis, it was resting on top

    of the torque tube. I had to take a section out the seat to get it to fit back on the chassis. while I was at it I removed the molded in

    seat belts as am going add after market belts.

    IMG_0789.thumb.JPG.ab24d82940d4c21dba198

    The sectioned seat stitched back together. I didn't like the fitment of how the seat sat on the rails so I add 020 to the back and sides.

    The kits lower seat was incorrect as it didn't mate to the lower sheet metal pan. I extended what would be the lower sheet metal with

    020 to mate with the lower pan. The kits inaccuracy would have left the driver exposed to fire and a weenie roast.........

    I also re-scribed the tucks in the seat, and gave them more texture the kits were to linear. 

    IMG_0782.thumb.JPG.1353461fff721f5e1fe1bIMG_0783.thumb.JPG.2e6585a86eaa17c4292cbIMG_0681.thumb.JPG.a39a4d3d11ada5d074b0f

    Modified seat back between the rails.

    If I get some bench time today I'm going to correct the bulge in the upper tin as it now sits on top of the injector hat.

    I want to thank all who have looked and given me help!

    I want to give Randy AKA dragcars a special thanks!!! Your information was most useful!

    I know for many of you what I'm doing is no big deal (modifications) not having built a kit in 25 years and they were all pretty much box stock

    I'm having a blast!!!! Much of it has to do with the talent on this forum. I'm taking baby steps! however at least I'm not warming the bench any longer!

    Thank you!

    Jimmy "RASS" 

     

     

     

     

     

×
×
  • Create New...