Pete J.
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Posts posted by Pete J.
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I'd have to agree with Dave Van and Austin T the most I ever spent on 1 kit is like 70.00 + change + shipping off the bay. Its ok if you guys build the large scale and can afford them, to each his own. I have been looking for this car in 1/24 at resonable price, ( although I really don't build foreign cars )hopefully this weekend at the swapmeet and contest here in Omaha. If anyone lives close you should come.
If you want an Enzo in 1:24 scale, get the Tamiya one. Much nicer build than the revell. Also a lot more detailed. If you can find it the SMS detail set adds a lot to it. They are $38 from Hobby link, so you should be able to find one for less than $40 on some vendors table. By the way, GBR!!
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Nope, pretty much stuck just building the same thing over and over and over.
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You didn't understand my point.
What I said was that box stock is more a particular way of building for contests than it is the way most regular modelers build.
Yeah, it may be a "hard" contest category to do well, and I wasn't saying it was an easy way to build. My point is that It's a "specialized" contest category, not the way most experienced modelers would build a model that they build for themselves (not specifically to enter in the box-stock class of a contest).
So I'll stand by my opinion: most modelers probably don't build box stock unless they are doing so specifically as an entry in the box-stock class of a contest.
Yep, ok now I understand your feelings about it. The way you worded your first statment is came across as "only beginers build box stock. Experienced modelers don't waste their time on it." Not what you ment. Ok.
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I don't think very many experienced modelers do much box stock building. Maybe a beginner will do it that way until they get the hang of it... but I'm sure the urge to "do it your way" comes into play pretty soon.
I see box stock as pretty much nothing more than a specialized contest category... probably not too many people in the "real world" build that way.
Try this approach ....
Look at it as a challenge rather than an obstacle ! Box stock at the shows is the class with the highest number entered .
To take a first , you have to be at the top of your game , here ! Right ? Build it as though your life depended on it . Every single mold line sanded , every part perfectly positioned , killer paint , decals , etc , you know the drill !
Build a subject you throughly enjoy ! After you've shown it , you can always take it back apart and detail it to the max . Win win situation !
Oh , and quit banging your head off things . There are too many examples around here of how it can alter your thinking process and how you'll turn out later in life !!!!
Yes ! I am one of them !!! Lol !
Harry - I am definately in disagreement with you about this catagory and more aligned with LoneWolf15. I have always seen box stock at the top of the heap in contests and I am sure that will cause some disagreement but here is my logic. Box stock is nothing but pure modeler skill in the very basics of our hobby. It is about the cleanest of the clean builds or as near to perfection as you can get without the usual "cheats" of hidding stuff under detail or custom body work or all the other little tricks we all have to conceal our mistakes. It takes a lot to take what came in the box an make it into a really first class model. Minuet attention to detail is the name of the game. I don't compete in this catagory often, because it takes a lot of work to put a top notch model on the table.
As to it being a beginers catagory, I can see that point of view, but I believe it really appeals to a select group of top flight modelers who really want to compete one on one without the clutter of aftermarket/scratch build stuff. Just cleanup, fit, assembly and paint quality.
Best time I ever had was many years ago two of my best modeling buddys and I all built the same kit box stock and painted it with the same exterior paint and put them on the table at one of the bigger model contests and then stood back and watched the fun. This was a test of all our skills enhansed by a friendly competition. For those intersted here is a photo of my entry.
I have always felt that box stock can be one of the toughest catagories.
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I have spoken with Mr. Tamiya and his son-in-law, also Mr. Tamiya, on several occassions:
Ditto - Been there and heard that. All the employees at Tamiya say it the same way. -Tahmeah very flat with no inflection. Very hard for an american to get it just right.
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Comb, Home...
Then you have One & Won. Two & To.
One looks like it should be pronounced Own like in Tone. And Two doesn't even need it's W...
Mark - you left one(or is the won) out. It is to,too, and two. Tomb - toom comb - coom? and wear or where.....?
A big thanks to all who remind us of our regional differances! We are indeed a people united but separated by a common language. By the way Nate - Fahd is the stuff that gets into jet engines and screws them up. (inside joke for aviators!)
Oh, and by the way I never heard it pronounce Willis. I learned to drive in a CJ-2A and Dad always called it a Willees. I guess that is a Nebraska thing.
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OMG! That is impressive! Who is the builder? I would very much like to see more of his stuff.
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Part of it is also hiding any thing that doesn't look like a model. This is a pretty good photo if I do say so myself, but I can pick out 4 major bits that give it away as a model. Can you?
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MicroScale Kristal Klear - Best stuff on the market. A white glue that will tack up farily fast and dries completely clear. Shrinks as it dries so any excess around the edge pulls back under the photo etched and it remains flexible after dry. One other great feature is that it cleans up with water even after it has dried completely.
Pete,
Where can I get some?
Almost any hobby store with carry it. It is by the same company that makes Microsol and Microset. In fact if your hobby shop has a rack of Microscale products, one of them will be Kristal Klear. It's good stuff!
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You really need the kick stand. This may look like a sport bike but frankly, it is a great Japanese poser! Had the look of big American Iron with a 50cc engine. Only in Japan! Kind of a weird piece. Sport it out if you would like, but remember what it is.
I actually have one in my collection. It was a gift from my first visit to Tamiya HQ in Japan. I have never built it, but now that I see one, I am getting the bug to tackle it.
Pete
PS - I never saw the real thing but googled it and came up with this Japanese web site. http://info.motor.hc360.com/2007/05/30144921145.shtml This is really a small bike, almost the size of a minibike. Either that or the rider is just huge! Kind of puts the whole thing in perspective. Wierd is the only word I can come up with.
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No, no, no! NEVER attach photoeteched emblems with super glue. Use either clear 5-minute epoxy, or better get, brush a tiny dab of clear enamel or acrylic on the spot where the emblem goes, let it tack up for a minute or two, and then attach the emblem using tweezers. This will give you plenty of time to finesse the emblem and get it placed exactly in the right spot.
MicroScale Kristal Klear - Best stuff on the market. A white glue that will tack up farily fast and dries completely clear. Shrinks as it dries so any excess around the edge pulls back under the photo etched and it remains flexible after dry. One other great feature is that it cleans up with water even after it has dried completely.
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I've never heard of anyone doing this with a spray can...has it ever "NOT" worked for you ??? Was there a test period of getting the right amount of time in between steps..
I get a lot of touch up cans from work, I may have to try this out.
I've never had a problem with this process. As with anything, timing is critical. Normally, my wait time is over night as I mostly work in the evening after work. If you wait that long then you will never have any issues. I developed this idea because Mark Jones mentioned on time that using the other methods you leave a fair bit of paint in the can. Being frugel, I didn't want to leave any paint as it cost quite a bit per ounce.
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I follow a completely differant approach. First thing I do is turn the can upside down and release all the propellent, just like I was going to clean the nozzle before storing it, except I get rid of all the gas. I then set it aside for several hours. This does two things, first is that it prevents the paint from getting any moisture in it from condensation because it is cooled from the drop in pressure. Second it allows the paint to off gas in the can and I have no fear of boil over as it warms up. Once the can is back to room tempurature, I repeat the process because the gas coming out of the paint will have built up a little pressure.
I then heat the can in hot water to warm it and shake to bijebbers out of it. (bijebbers are those nasty little gremlins that ruin a perfect paint job.
) Once I am convinced the paint is well mixed, I lay the can on it's side on the bench and take an ice pick or an awl and punch two holes in the can. One as close to the bottom seam as I can and one near the top. I tip the can with the bottom hole over the jar I want to fill and use a finger over the top hole to control the flow. This method allows me to get all the paint that is in the can out. Once I have extracted all the paint that way. I use a hypodermic to squirt a little thinner in the can and shake it again, to get any residual paint out. This is a safe and easy way to get all the paint that you paid for.
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I was a bit shocked when with this one. After voting I found out this one is a Symbolic Motors here in La Jolla. Had to go by and see it. Very nice restoration!
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You might be right, but then I spent more than that on the 935 with the SMS kit so it doesn't look like a bad buy, especially if you can get a discount like most large scale models.
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Holy (instert your own explative)!!! Nobody that I know of saw this comming. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=12047 I have been waiting for 10 years for this thing to show up as an assembly kit. Down side - $610 but that is not any worse than some of the small resin shops and I would bet that this puppy is a much better build. I'm first in line! Who's behind me.
Pete
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Good heavens Harry, a Fiat Multipla! Who in their right mind would buy/own/model one of those. It has got the be real, either that or it is a really sick Itallian modeler.
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Technonlogy without a purpose is a toy. Having said that, the definition of purpose can get very blurred. Yes, entertainment is a purpose, but entertainment to the exclusion of useful work is a problem. Playing Angry Birds while waiting for the doctor is entirely differant than sneaking in a couple of games on the office computer.
I use a lot of technonology bits and pieces in my hobbies. For instance, I needed to cut a cove on a piece of metal I was turning for a project for my daughter. Rather than guess and approximate the cut, which a competant machinest would have been able to do(I am very much an amature machinest and far from competant), I created a spread sheet in Excel to calculate the depth of plunge cuts to accurately give me the edge of the curve. I then used Sketchup to draw and lable the dimentions of the piece I was making. Could I have done the calculations the old fashion way and drawn the plans this a pencil and paper? Yes, but I learned a lot doing it on a computer that I would not have learned otherwise. Was I playing with technology? Yes, but now I have a tool that can do this repeatedly should I have the need in the future. Yes, it will get used, so technology is making me more productive at something I enjoy and is not "work". I doubt that most would question this use of technology.
As to those who are glued to their smart phone while walking down the street, "Pay attention to the world around you!!!" Smart phones have a use. Over use is abuse! You don't need to be glued to it and expect others to get out of your way, and quit playing with the darned thing while you are driving. That is just plain dangerous!
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A couple of thought come to mind about building. If you get all your joy from finishing something, then you are not enjoying the build. Which one last the longest? The build or the finish.
Second is my favorite statement from the book, "If life is a game, these are the rules". There are no mistakes in life, only lessons and the lessons will continue until they are learned.
Modeling like life is all about the build/journey, not the destination.
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Sorry guys - All time ugliest car on the planet- Just no rime nor reason to the design belongs hands down to Pontiac. I just can not see a bunch of stylists standing around this beast saying "Wow, now that is a great design!" What were they thinking!
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Here are a few builds from other builders that I've had archived in my albums. Hopefully they don't them being shown off.
Doug Curran
Rickard
Frank Bennett
Love the area 51 referances in the decals. For those who don't follow such things, dreamland is the FAA name for the restricted airspace over area 51 and Janet airlines is the no markings shuttle service from McCarran airport. Groomlake race way
EEG and Los Alamos as sponsers, great fun. Loved seeing it.
Cult of ORIGINALITY! Show Us Your Style
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted · Edited by Pete J.
I seem to build at two extremes - First I like to ultra detail stuff and get it as accurate as possible. I love the challenge of "getting it right"
My other extreme is just pure fantasy. Something really extreme, but believible. Make it clean but something that nobody ever would have thought of.