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microwheel

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Everything posted by microwheel

  1. Here's my update for this evening guys. I got the glass and firewall installed in the body this afternoon. To hold the glass in place, I taped the glass into position and then carefully applied some 5 minute epoxy around the edges of the glass with a q-tip. Once the epoxy set up for awhile I then mounted the firewall into place and cemented it to the inner body fenders. Next I mated the interior and main chassis to the body and applied a small amount of 5 minute epoxy to the seam where the main chassis and interior met the firewall, then once the epoxy had set up I touched it up with Tamiya semi-gloss black acrylic paint to blend the firewall into the chassis. Next was to install the rear taillights into the rear tail panel. The taillights were detailed with model masters metalizer aluminum plate paint. Then the SS and 454 photo etched script from the model car garage detail set was added to the rear light panel and tacked into place with testors lacquer gloss clear, applied with a toothpick, to the location on the rear panel where they need to be placed. Then the rear taillight assembly panel was epoxied into place on the back of the body with 5 minute epoxy. Next I removed the outer rims from the rear wheels and then placed the rear wheels on the rear axle. I applied a little bit of liquid model cement to the locking pins where they slide onto the axles. Doing this through the tire after the pins had been slid onto the axle assures the wheels will rotate and not wobble. Later the outer rims will be pushed back onto the tires. Excuse the dust in some of the pics, I usually clean things off and on as I build. Some of you may wonder at this point why I didn't assemble the front sub-frame and engine assembly to the main chassis. I found that it the front end will go into the model much easier and align up better by installing it later. Besides I still have a few odds and ends detail things to do to it before installing it into the car. Still have to add the license plate and photo etched frame to the back yet. I kinda like how this paint color changes depending on the lighting. At times it almost looks silver metallic, and at other times almost a greenish metallic. And finally from the underside with the rear wheels installed. Anyways that's pretty much it for this evening. More as I progress.
  2. Thank you for the kind words Gary. I am a little familiar with the kit you are working on, so I know the struggles you must be dealing with. But Im sure you will do a fine job of it. The important thing to remember when it comes to your build, and it's what some old modelers back in my early years of modeling told to me when I got stuck or frustrated with a stubborn build. "You can find things wrong every step of the way with any kit you get your hands on, so don't worry about the things you cant fix, and work to take care of the ones you can. It's a model after all, and this is a hobby after all. Have fun with it, and if it quits being fun, then your probably trying to do too much. Do only what you can, and don't try to do too much. The build will speak to you in it's own way and tell you when you've done enough with it". I am honored that my ideas can be of help to you on your build. The things I do when modeling, come from many years of advice and assistance from the many modelers I have crossed paths with. And even some pro 1:1 car builders I've had the privilege to meet and interact with. Feel free, to use any of my ideas and tips you feel are helpful. And dont be afraid to ask any of the outstanding modelers on here for ideas and help that you may need. That's how we all learn and improve over time. Just remember, there will come a day where it will be someone asking for your advice and help, and when they do, share all you can with them.
  3. Here is a reference pic of the front of a 70 Baldwin Motion Camaro for you guys working on, or thinking about working on one of these kits. Notice the 454 emblem on the grill is white, not red or black, also notice the very center upright of the grill between the meshes. That part, on all the reference pics I have or have seen of the Baldwin Motion Camaro, is usually black, and with some, very rare cases, body color. I have seen a few clones where they have done the grill meshes in black, but that was not the case on the true 70 1/2 Baldwin Motion Camaros, most had chrome or brushed aluminum grill meshes. I can't say that they didn't blacken the grill meshes on the 71 and newer BM Camaros, most of my research has been dedicated to the 70 1/2. And here is my grill with the 454 script attached and the center between the meshes painted black. I'll try to get a few more updates posted later on today if I have time.
  4. Hi Joe Thanks, your grill looks good as well. I went with Alclad because whenever I use MCG detail kit grill inserts on kits and I go to cut out the kit grill meshes for them, I always tend to scratch up the grill chrome areas I dont want to loose, so the easiest fix around that for me, is to just de-chrome them and then re-chrome them with Alclad when I have them ready. It took me a while to learn how to use the stuff and there are times I still mess up the process and have to give it more than one try before I get the result I want.
  5. Sorry for the lack of updates the past few days. My wife's sister was up visiting from Detroit. Here is a little something to tied you over till I get a few more things done. I worked on the front grill since I only had a little time this weekend. My plan was to use the photo-etched grill inserts that come with the Model Car Garage 70 Camaro detail set. I started out by drilling a hole in the grill mesh on each side and then scribing the edges with my exacto knife. Then working from the hole out to the scribed edges, I cut the mesh areas of the grill out. Next was to de-chrome and clean up the kit grill and then remove the photo-etched grill inserts from the detail set and trim them to fit the grill openings with a pair of hobby parts trimmers. Next the grill inserts were cemented into the kit grill with medium grade CA glue. Once the glue had set up good for a couple of hours, the whole thing was primed with a couple of coats of Tamiya white fine spray primer. Once the primer had dried, 3 coats of model masters gloss black enamel was applied. and then set aside to dry for a day. Once the Black had been given a good 24 hour drying period, the grill assembly was re-chromed with Alclad II chrome paint and set aside to dry for a few days. That's where we are for now. Stay tuned for more.....
  6. I've used them since the late 1980's especially the acrylics which I always mix 50/50 with denatured alcohol which you can get at any hardware store. It mixes good with it. But when I use the Tamiya flats for my interiors, I usually use their spray can versions which are lacquer based. I think it was just a type O and he meant to say paint lol
  7. No Problem Fred just had a question about the camaro body fit, but I ended up figuring it out already lol
  8. Hi Joe, well when you do get time to work on it, I'm sure it will turn out great. I do my interiors mostly in flat colors and then anywhere that a vinyl look is needed I go over that area with a testors semi-gloss clear coat lacquer, and if I use Tamiya flat colors, I sometimes even go over that with testors clear gloss coat. But only the seats usually, the side panels of my interiors are always left in a flat color.
  9. Thanks Justin, It's not a matter of hoping you can model like this, I'm sure you can, it's the time and money involved in detailing to this level that takes commitment. No Michael, the wheels were left regular kit chrome. As will be the bumpers. The reason for using Alclad on the exhaust was due to to many areas of them having seems and ejector pin marks in visible areas.
  10. Hi John, no problem. And no I haven't read it. I'm not much for reading, or doing tons of research when it comes to model building. Most times I rely on my youth memories, or other people's advice and when it comes to Mopars that I build, that comes from my years of working for Chrysler. What little I know about this kit Im building comes from the one my brother owned back in the 70s. I don't know the whole story about his, but I know he wanted one bad and didn't want to have to order one from Baldwin Cnevrolet to get it, so he, asked the local chevy dealer in town to look for one for him, when they told him there was one available from a NJ chevy dealer, he went up there to check it out, and came home with it. I'm not 100% sure how that dealer ended up with it, other than assuming that someone traded it in to them. I am also not 100% sure that my brother's was a 454, his may have been a 427. It was a long time ago (I was only 15 at the time) and he only had it for a little over a year before he wrecked it.
  11. Hi Joe. I think you did a great job on your camaro. I like your rim choice.
  12. Your correct John, All the 70 1/2 Baldwin Motion Camaros with the 454 that I've seen had the PCV and Vacuum Advance deleted for performance, (not sure about other years or models). My oldest brother (god rest his soul) owned a 70 1/2 that he bought used from a NJ car dealer back in 1973, that someone from New York had traded in, and he used it as a daily driver, I dont ever remember him taking it to the track, though, I do remember riding with him during a couple of Friday night back road races. It even passed Delaware's vehicle inspection with the straight side pipe exhaust, believe it or not, though the Smyrna,Delaware cops didn't like it much. Back then, I guess they weren't as strict on noise as I know they are now lol. Eventually, he did have the side pipe exhaust removed for a conventional duel exhaust system. (I have no clue why), And it wan't long after that, he totaled it. Sure am glad Michigan doesn't have those pesky vehicle inspections. LOL
  13. on most GM 454's but as far as all the reference pics I have on the 70 1/2 Baldwin Motion Camaro's, I haven't seen a single one that has PVC valves. Some clones I've seen do, but not the genuine ones so far.
  14. Finally I got around to getting a little work done on the body. Got all the bare metal foil work done, including the front light buckets. And lastly got the rear spoiler on. That's pretty much it for this round of updates. I have company coming this weekend so next updates will be around the first of the week.
  15. Lots of work done to the Camaro the past few days. It may take a couple posts to fit the updates all in. I finally took some time and got the decals from fireball modelworks on the tires. This allowed me to at least get the wheels and tires out of the way. Next up I got most of the detail work done on the engine. There is still a few things to do for detail yet, but most of that has to waite till the sub assemblies start going together. I trimmed the fuel line off where it comes off the fuel filter and added a pin so I can later add my own fuel line from that section over to the cool-can, this is because using a little different alternator than the one that came with the kit, wouldn't allow the fuel line to run where it should. I also finally got the carb detailed with linkage and set on the engine. I then used the air filter top that came with model car garage's detail kit for the camaro. Got the plug wires run and the vacuum line for the power brake booster. Once the engine is in the car, I still plan to run the heater hoses and a few other odds and ends. Continued in following post................
  16. Thanks everyone. Howdy Joe. thanks alot. I like this kit alot so far. It does have it's issues with alot of flash and ejector pin marks, but otherwise a good kit. I would love to see yours sometime.
  17. Cool idea Fred. A nice little change.
  18. No this is how you keep the hobby alive. Way to go Nate!
  19. Afternoon guys. Got a little more done on the Camaro the past few days. Anyone that says lining up the headers is easy........ Boy.... Well lets just say they sure weren't for me. First I got the plug wires and boots made and attached to the engine. I also made a oil dip stick at this point, and a starter wire and attached the starter wire. Next came the fun part... NOT!..... I first slid the passenger side header over the plug wires and glued it into place. Then I glued the dip stick into place, I made earlier. Then I slid the driver's side header over the driver's side plug wires and left it loose for the time being. I thing tilted and turn the engine until the passenger side header just cleared the sub-frame, and then maneuvered the driver's side header around until it just cleared the sub-frame. I then glued the engine into place on the sub-frame. And finally I positioned the loose driver's side header into it's proper position on the engine block and glued it into place. WHEW...... what a job! And no I don't have pics of the process because I worked steady at it until I got it right, and didn't take time to stop in the middle of things to take pics. But here are a few pics of the results. I plan to finish more detail work on the engine, with it in place on the sub-frame. Now that one of the hardest processes is out of the way, maybe I can actually get alot more done. more later as progress continues......
  20. Small update this morning. Finally got around to getting the exhaust parts re-chromed with Aclad 2 chrome paint. I like the way they turned out. They look alot better than what they did with the mold seams and push pin marks all over them. Now they just need to dry for a few days and they will be ready to go on the Camaro. Excuse my messy work bench, it's still a little dark out this morning so my room lighting wasn't the greatest, so I had to take the pics on the bench. It doesn't always look that bad, just when I'm in the middle of heavy building and don't take time to clean things up and put them away lol. I'll try to take some better pics later of them, if the dang sun ever comes out, it's rainy today.
  21. I agree Chris, and though they do take a little time to fit and configure, the extra time is worth it.
  22. Thanks guys. One last update for this evening. I went ahead and setup the fan belts for the engine and added a couple of wire looms for the plug wires. The pulley kit from "parts by parks" comes with some pretty neat fan belt material made out of rubber strips. They are pliable and look pretty realistic when used. I attach the belts by applying a small drop of CA glue with a tooth pick in the pulley groves where the belts rest just before they need to curve around the pulleys. I work between just a couple of spots at a time, I also like to make the area, where the two belt ends meet, on the underside of the crank pulley. This is the least visible spot for it. To cut the belt material, you'll want to use a good sharp pair of sprue cutters. And cut them just before joining the two ends together. Also if your alternator is on photo etched brackets, try not to stretch the belt material and put to much of a bind on your brackets. I usually just lay the belts around my pulleys spot gluing as I go so as not to stretch the belts at all. If you use CA glue, and as most of you know, it sometimes leaves a little white residue when it dries, you can touch up the belts in those spots with a little bit of Tamiya semi-gloss black acrylic paint, and it will blend in nicely with the natural color of the belts. If your careful and take your time, this should be your results. That's pretty much it for this evenings progress. I'll be posting more as I go along.
  23. Here ya go Fred. They are still drying out, but you get the idea. LOL
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