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ferrari87

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Posts posted by ferrari87

  1. I'm currently working on my Mitsubishi FTO.I have the basecoat laid down and spent the afternoon and evening wetsanding it with 3600 to 12000 and now I have a nice uniform finish with no orange peel. Now my questions:

    1. I still need to mask and paint the headlights, tail lights (the backs or inside) chrome silver and the window and door trim black and then add the decals. So question, should I paint the window/door trim and headlights/tail lights and then use the novus system, then place the decals, and then clearcoat? Then, is that when i'll use my rubbing compound and wax?

    I tested the polish and wax on an older model, it's Turtle Wax Polish and Meguiars Carnauba Wax and everything turned out pretty well there actually.

    I'm just a little confused on the best way to go about getting the best results.

  2. Nice build Justin. Looking really good. Nice to see a good turnaround and see you come out on top after your issues with the Aston Martin.

    Especially like the garage as well. I think that others may be right about toning down the bricks a bit but otherwise great job.

    Chris

    Why you gotta bring up old stuff?! Thanks for following along Chris. I plan on taking on a new Aston Martin soon.

    I agree, the bricks need a good dark wash and some pigments.

  3. Guys, I want to thank you all very much for the kind words and support. Scott, thank you for following along from the start, it was a fun trip with this one. I'd love to do a couple more! For future builders, please note that there is a very small part of the directions that instructs you to remove the fender mounted turn indicators. I did not catch this until I started painting the corner markers and I felt that it was too late by then.

    I also want to thank you guys for the support on the garage. I couldn't have done it without coming across Philbass's "Restoration" thread and inside of it, a DIY tutorial for the bricks.

  4. Love rotary power. Is the carbon fiber painted, decal or how did you do it?

    It is a decal from Scale Motorsport. You can find it here. A good tutorial on how to use it on hoods can be found here. I recommend you cut the decal in half while on the backing sheet. I didn't and it was a PIA to properly place.

    That garage facade is awesome. Really like how you added the weeds along the bottom edge.

    Thank you Kris! That is exactly what I was trying to get at!! Glad you noticed. Thank you.

  5. Hi guys. This is my first Under Glass post. The build was a long one and it was a lot of fun. I learned a lot along the way and here she is in front of my recently completed garage facade.

    IMG_20150303_144721021_zpswkhedafe.jpg

    IMG_20150303_144511788_HDR_zps5okk20mx.j

    IMG_20150303_143634860_zpsuq0eehyg.jpg

    IMG_20150303_143604635_zpsaa0fulcw.jpg

    IMG_20150303_144600657_HDR_zpskc0wlhpi.j

    IMG_20150303_143140746_zpstcwjgoye.jpg

  6. Well guys, I can call here COMPLETE! Finally...Pictures with my garage facade will be in Under Glass but here's a quick workbench photo to complete this build. It didn't come out perfectly, the hood has given me some fits and don't get me started on the front windscreen but I had a blast building this and I am pleased with the outcome...I did my best and I learned along the way.

    IMG_20150303_142320385_zpsi78n9tiz.jpg

    IMG_20150303_142301084_zpsifdhimcz.jpg

    IMG_20150303_142357115_zpsgqfboude.jpg

    IMG_20150303_142720333_zpsczauocac.jpg

  7. I'm sure you'll be happier with the end result you'll have from reworking the firewall as you describe.

    I've done rather a lot of 1:1 engine swaps, and it's entirely permissible to modify a subframe, crossmember or oil-pan...or all of them...to get an engine to fit a chassis it wasn't intended for. Just bear in mind where the strength needs to be replaced in the structure (after it's been cut away for clearance) and where the oil pickup would be in the pan.

    That's the major issue, I would have to basically create an entire new suspension for the car. I am going to lend a little more research into swapping an RB into an S15 but from what I rememeber, its a popular swap due to it being relatively easy.

    I've already modded the oil pan to fit over the rack and pinion steering rod in the current set up. More homework shall be done.

  8. Don't get me wrong, a GT-R power plant with all wheel drive would be absolutely KILLER in any S-chassis. There's a company in California, Full Race, that converts S-chassis cars to awd with the GT-R drive train of your choice.

    keep up the good work, I'll be watching intently!

    Thanks for following along Ken! I'm going to keep this one rear wheel drive for simplicity as putting in the Tamiya engineered AWD drivetrain would have meant some serious modifications. Initially, I thought maybe I could use the whole front end of the donor R32 but nothing fit right. Currently all parts of AWD system have been permanently removed.

    Skip, as you requested...here is the box, it's Aoshima's TOP SECRET S15

    box_zpsesxculi0.jpg\

    here is the current paint color:

    silvia%20red_zpsoldr47te.jpg

    silvia%20red%20rear_zpsoip1sf7t.jpg

    Bill, I took your advice and disassembled the entire firewall back to square 1. The milliput is gone and I will be mounting the firewall closer to the inner fenders IAW the picture you provided. I still will have a considerable gap from the back of the engine to the firewall but that is mostly a compromise of several issues. The leading one being the sub-frame assembly that holds the LCA's that mount to the steering knuckles. To properly place the engine, the oil pan is in direct conflict with the sub-frame assembly and to move it, I would have to redesign the entire front suspension. I also have a feeling that the engine isn't quite the size it needs to be either. The R32 donor is an old kit and I suspect that even Tamiya's excellent engineering may have made the engine a wee bit too short. In fact, it looks more like the SR20 motor than the RB26 in the engine bay but this is a minor issue I can live with.

    I probably won't make much progress over the weekend but with Tuesday and Wednesday off, I'll be able to reconstruct the firewall and resume progress on the front of the engine bay, adding in the crash beam and radiatior supports and then finally start to mock up the intercooler placement and then charge air piping as well as the intake piping.

    Stay tuned gents. B)

  9. Bill those pictures are friggin sweet! I did a generous amount on googling but could only find pictures of the SR20 installed. I found one picture of a bare engine bay but i could not verify if it was an S15 or one of her older sisters. It also left what was behind the wheel wells to my imagination.

    I think what i can do is tear down what I have built up and remove the milliput. If I am careful enough, I may be able to re-use the styrene firewall and inner fenders. If not, I can easily make new ones.

    As the saying goes, Rome wasn't built in a day.

    Thanks again Bill!

  10. Justin,I really like the progress on this.It is going to be interesting to see how this goes.

    Have you decided on a body color??

    I'm torn between Tamiya's Metallic Orange and a Gloss Red. I'll change my mind two more times before I get done with the engine though. :lol:

    What bothers me about this one, and remember...you asked for constructive feedback...is the Milliput at the firewall / inner fender juncture. I don't know what your plans are, but right now it looks like somebody emptied a couple of cans of Great Stuff urethane expanding foam in the crease, and hoped for the best.

    And this is why I cherish input...I did not think of it like that at all and now that you mention it, that's all I can think of. I'm going to spend a few days figuring out a way to fix it up a bit. My initial plan was to go over the Milliput with Tamiya White Putty. One thing I did mess up on was the transmission housing, that "bump" shouldn't be there along the firewall and I'll have to remove that section if I can.

    Thanks Bill!!

    This part of the build will be difficult to see and I was thinking, "well, if it doesn't lookright it won't be too visible." I am still going to revisit this area as I'm not done working with the firewall area.

    Stay tuned gents, I'll get her right.

  11. Thank you very much gentlemen for the kind words. Al, I added a few missing bricks and am still flirting with the idea of adding the white powder seen in philbass's Restoration thread to give it a bit more of a weathered look. However for now, I think it will do fine as a backdrop to my cars. Thank you guys again.

  12. Ok, let me set the record straight. pardon the caps but y'all obviously need them I'M NOT SUGGESTING, I'M NOT SAYING, I'M NOT DEMANDING, I'M NOT ASKING FOR ATTA BOY'S, PATS ON THE BACK, GOOD JOBS, NICE WORKS, OR ANYTHING OF THE "POSITIVE SORT!" NEVER, NOT ONCE DID I SAY "HEY GUYS START TELLING ME I'M DOING A GOOD JOB. IN FACT, I WANT YOU TO START TELLING ME WHAT I NEED TO FREAKING IMPROVE ON TO BECOME A BETTER MODELER!!!!!

    With that said here's what I'm talking about now that I'm at my computer.

    With the large amount of American muscle builders and fans, it is very difficult for those of us who do not build popular cars to keep our builds from getting buried in the forums. When you have to compete with posts of 6 Camaro's at once, three other active Camaro's, 2 Vette's, 3 Mustangs, and a handful of other old cars those of us who build Japanese or even European cars get lost in the posting.

    In my opinion, the issue at hand is the lack of organization within the "On the Workbench" forum. A simple grouping of American, Japanese, and European would be nice and allow my post, which clearly has a very small interest group from getting buried under the much more popular American muscle builds.

    When a thread receives little input, it gets buried under the more popular threads. Often times, the posts to the other threads are something as simple as "this build rocks" or "great looking paint." Those are great to receive and I am not suggesting that they are not important but when you watch your thread disappear into the abyss of page 4, it is frustrating because let's face it, not many people read every post all the way back to page 4.

    I'm here for constructive feedback from those of you who have been doing this for many, many years and can help input when the situation arises. I'm not here straight for "oh wow, you did such a great job!" because frankly, my wife could say the same BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH thing. What I look forward to is some useful tips and suggestions on how to do something better or if I got something wrong, a way to do it right. I got lots of input on my RX-7 build and when needed, I received help. However, that post too often times got buried under the weigh of the other threads.

    Each build is amazing to me, from Tom B's 6 Camaro's and Andy Brooks' Fox body LS-1 to Michael Moskov's Liberty Walk 458 Italia. I love all cars and I truly enjoy the builds that are on this site.

    My apologies for coming off whiny, frankly I just felt like ranting. Some of you guys can dial back the attacking, especially when it comes to calling me a middle schooler which truly shows your maturity level. Personal attacks aside, if you felt like I was attack the subject matter of most builds here, well, again my apologies. Just looking at the first page of the workbench, I see a Hemi Dart, a Hemi Cuda, another Hemi Dart, a 65 Chevelle, a 71 Plymouth, a 53 Vette, a 79 Camaro, a '13 Mustang, and a 70 Challenger. It is difficult to survive through the large number of posts and then new threads on here. If the community isn't commenting on a post, it disappears.

    In fact, just to update my thread I had to search for it through the search function. I usually make progress weekly and by the time I make an update, often times it has already been far buried. So what am I to do then? Bump it once it falls to page 3? Make some random comment on it? Again, I feel the need to clarify:

    I'M NOT COMPLAINING ABOUT NOT HAVING BACK PATS, ATTA BOY'S, OR WAY TO GO'S.

    Ultimately, it's discouraging to me when I don't build cars that 90% of the community likes and that won't change. So frankly, if the cars I build aren't popular here, and the community only replies to stuff they are interested in, I'm stuck like Chuck.

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