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Thanks! Thats just what I need! I havent seen anything like these trucks anywhere. I am suprised no model kit has been made of these vans.

The brake fluid really works great! I have cleaned 4 cars now and it removed all paint. 2 cars must have had a different type paint, they took 2 days but still came very clean with no damage to the plastic. I am using a plastic 12 pack cooler for the tank, the lid seals well and has a latch. It is time to strain it, the brake fluid looks ugly now. I have been working outside with gloves etc. the fumes are bad from brake fluid, but no problems if you are careful. Thanks everyone!

Has anyone made rubber stamps to use for marking tires? Like a "Firestone" or "Goodyear" stamp? Use some white paint and- there you go. I suppose if they knew, the manufacturers would stop this also.

I thought some of might like to see these, you might have to scroll down to find the pics. Hope the administraters dont mind if I post some links here: http://www.tsrfcars.com/t-kallas-lancia.htm http://www.tsrfcars.com/t-kallas-956.htm http://www.slotblog.net/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=256 http://www.slotblog.net/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=125 http://www.slotblog.net/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=108 You might recognise the artist in the last link. :wink:

What can I do to reduce orange peel? This is with oil enamal like testors. I wash the car with dishsoap and rinse well, completely dry. Been thinning about 40-50% at different times ( with testors paint thinner for airbrush) and still cant get a really smooth paint. It doesnt look to bad (for me) but compared to the paint jobs I see here, its just not good enough yet. Should I thin even more? I have used between 20 -30 psi and I do have a water/oil trap. Could it be the psi is wrong? Also, Have any of you tryed to use oil enamal like rustolium or whatever they sell at the hardware store? I have been burning up the bottles of testors ($) practicing, wondered if this would be comparable? Only for practice but it needs to be similar to do any good. The colors are limited unless you get it mixed. I thought it might be worth a try, about $4.50 a pint. Thanks!

I use them for slot cars, different kinds. Usually I buy a regular kit and use the body, some of the chrome parts like grills, bumpers etc. I use the window glass for stock cars, thinner celophane type plastic for drag cars windows. Sometimes I use a full interior and install a driver, sometimes I use a shallow flat type made for slots. Everything else from the kit goes in a big box and there it sets. Most of the cars I build are drag cars or larger full size cars for vintage stock cars. I am finishing a 40 ford jalopy racer right now. If you look in the model racing section here you can see what I am talking about. These guys cars are better then mine though :roll: It is just a waste to get all those parts I dont need, and I do remember being able to buy these bodies alone years ago.

No, I am not talking about my wife. :wink: Are there any companies or websites that sell body kits? Not the complete model? There used to be a hobby store here in town that had all kinds of bodies and body parts, but they were not complete kits. I dont think they were resin.

Does anyone make a 1/24 or 1/25 kit of a UPS or Fed x truck? Thanks for any help,

I think that link is to the old forum, which was locked for posting I beleive. It is still up for references- lots of pics etc.

Thanks everyone!

Hi! I've been practicing, mostly fiddling with the pressures and adjustments on the airbrush. Still getting the feel for thinning the paint. Havent got it right yet, but I think its going to be great. i just need to get my skill level up now. I have some old model kits I am going to re-use, that will give me some experience. The Badger 200 is a nice little brush, of course the only one I have to campare is a testors ($20.00 at wal-mart) and the Badger is much better. I'll try to get the photo thing going here soon. Maybe it's just me, but the laquer painting on lexan seems easier than oil enamel on styrene. The compressor I bought goes up to 30psi, so I cant paint acrylics but thats ok for now.

Simple green removes paint? I never tried that. Thanks for the replies everyone, I will try some of these ideas and let you know how they work for me. I have about 12 cars to strip. Got them at a garage sale for less then $1.00 each. Thanks!

After checking around, the best I can come up with is: 12-14 psi for laquer paints on lexan, thin about 50% laquer thinner * many different things have been listed for thinning, like 4o9 cleaner, acetone? 60 - 80 psi for acrylics. not sure on the thinning ratio, or what to thin with. Dont know yet for oil enamel, I have been using about 28 psi and I dont think it is quite right. Of course, it could be me since I am new. Thin enamel about 40% paint thinner. Havent seen anything saying exactly what psi to spray with. This info came from several sources, like the testors airbrush thinner bottle for example. If anyone wants to chime in, feel free! I am sure some of you know better. It would be nice to have a clear list for these.

I have several models from garage sales that I want to re-use. Any tips on model paint removal? I think these are all oil enamel like testors paint. Somewhere I read about having a dip tank or bucket for this, that would be best since I will have several to do. What is used in this method? Thanks for any help! Roy

Hi! Can this foil be used over metal? Like cast aluminum or brass? I have some cox american mag wheels that look great but they are dull. I dont know if foil would be better then trying to polish the aluminum.

Is there a list for the best airbrush psi for the different paints like laquer, acrylic, oil based enamel etc? I have everything except the regulator now, i want to get started practicing. Roy

If you want to concentrate on the modeling aspect, these chassis are great and ready to use for model kit bodies: http://www.tsrfcars.com/TCARS-KITS-home.htm (hope Jairus & Greg dont mind links here) I have used these under some revell models, like the c-5 corvette, and the porsche. It has an adjustable wheelbase and I recommend using the pin tube mounts. It can be modified to fit other bodies and there is a list of bodies that fit out of the box. There is an organization with rules for racing these, but they are good just for fun also. If you are interested in this, look here: http://www.slotblog.net/Forums/viewforum.php?f=20 They also have ready to run cars, but you guys want to build your own, right? If you want to be faster, the lexan bodies are much lighter and less top heavy. The motors require a little more power than a standard power pack delivers, so there is info on that if you want to use these on a home track. There are lower powered motors available for that. Roy Walkup

Hi Jairus and everyone! The airbrush is badger model 200, very simple but will do the trick. I also received a big bagfull of pactra paint. I dont know if the link works, but this is the compressor I ordered: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92403 Again, very simple but for what I am doing for now ( as a beginner) its fine. It supposed to have a trap and some hose, also a pressure gauge. Do I need anythig else? Not a word about an air regulator in the description, do I need to get one of those? I did order an extra trap and a couple adaptors for the line, just in case. This unit only goes to 30psi, is that ok? I'm about ready to start practicing, using some modelmaster paint. I have some model kits I am building into hardbody slot cars. those will be my guinea pigs. I havent much experience really, I am more of a motor/chassis guy (with slot cars) than a body detailer, but that needs to change. I always did simple paint jobs before, using spray cans frequently. This is going to be great, maybe I will be able to show something here in the (distant) future. Roy

Hi everyone! I got the airbrush, it's a model 200. a simple airbrush but way better than my old one. I received many ( 40+) bottles of lexan (laquer ) paint, they would cost more than the brush. Anyway, now I am getting a small electric compressor. I see one on harborfreight for 49.99 complete with gauges etc. Locally I cant find one like it, but there are "pancake "compressors cheap. Is there a reason to choose one over the other? I will need more hose and a water trap. Where can I get one of those? Any particulars to look for? I cant wait to get started. 8) Roy

Hi Manny, I dont know which model the badger is, someone is sending it to me to try and I wont know till then. Is there a big difference between badger airbrushes? I will get some reg thinner - that price beats $2.99 for a small bottle of testors thinner. I've evidentally been mixing the paint too thick, that is probably why I havent had good luck with the old testors airbrush. I will do like you said, the consistancy of milk. I've had better luck on lexan bodies, that paint is already thin. Thanks! Roy

Hi everyone! Could someone give me some tips on spraying (airbrush) model paints? This is for styrene models, what paint is best? reg model paint like testors, modelmaker or just use enamel paint from the hardware store or? How much do you thin these? I have the most trouble with this and masking. I have testors thinner for airbrushing. Will regular paint thinner from the store work? I used a testors airbrush before, now am waiting on delivery of a badger - any tips on these airbrushes would be appreciated. Mostly I have used laquer paint for lexan bodies, but that is different, so any tips on that would be great. Roy Walkup

Hi Jairus! And everyone else! This forum is great! To those of you who dont already race slot cars, you should try it! Hardbody slotcars are my new favorite, having gotten away from commercial slot racing for the most part. Building them is a little different than a static model. I try to balance realism with durability. For example, mirrors and bumpers take a lot of abuse on a slot car, so mounting them can be challenging. I sometimes use small pieces if velcro to hold bumpers on, so they can be easily re-attached. I have used silicone for the same reason, if you permanantly glue them they sometimes break in half instead of coming off. Painting is a little different if you really expect to race the car. It will get abuse, so coating for protection instead of just for show is another difference. I have some cars that are so nice I hardly run them, you dont want to do Every car that way. Half the fun is racing them. I have some "runners" that have been through the wringer, scraped up, no mirrors or small parts left. I like that. Jairus does beautiful work, having him here is awesome. Thanks for showing this site to us Jaurus. Roy