Tyler62990
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Posts posted by Tyler62990
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So the small details were the order of the day last night. First on the list was making up a tonneau cover. I was going to do this elaborate, multi-step process that would've taken up most of the night, but then spotted a piece of corrugated cardboard in my recyclables. After a little snip snip, a coat of satin black, and a whole ten minutes, it was done and looked very similar to the 1:1.
The full size version also has nifty little details like a gas pump nozzle for a shifter, and a pull chain style interior light, much like the one you'd find hanging in your basement. The light is a piece of plastic rod, a small bead, a piece of thread and a small piece of 30 gauge wire. The bulb was made by simply dabbing on a drop of UV cured glue and setting it up.
I also got the windshield and rear window cut and applied, wheels done up, and the spiderweb grill put in place. The wheels and brake rotors are from the Revell 32 5 Window kit, and while there not the deep steelies sported by the 1:1, they look just fine. I could've done a bit better painting the whitewalls, but they'll work as well. Painting was my last resort, but whoever came up with whitewall decals should be shot lol. The MCG web grill is also a bit inaccurate, being a little too intricate compared to the garage fashioned grill on the full size, but it takes A LOT of work off my hands by not having to try to scratch build one.
Well, that's it. I'm thinking one more post than this one's off to the Under Glass section.
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Ok, we're making some good progress now! That superglue cap tranny tunnel was really bothering me just sitting there, so I decided to get it looking like something. After a coat of flat red, some watered down craft glue was spread across the floor and some red embossing powder was used to mimic carpet.
After not being able to find suitable tuck and roll seats in the parts box, I decided to make my own pattern for the kit seats. This started off with the tonneau cover from the AMT 53 Ford pickup. A little white Liquitex Basics acrylic paint was built up in several coats over the pattern. I remember using this stuff in high school, and it always seemed to peel off anything you put it on in sheets that felt like vinyl. Not the best qualities for paint, but GREAT for this kind of work. After it dried, I got this nice sheet of virgin T&R material. The 53 Ford part is pictured at the top.
My stencil making abilities aren't top notch, nor are my cutting skills, but despite the sort of jagged cut lines, I'm pretty happy with it. As a bonus, I have enough left over material to do the door panels. I'm thinking the mistakes will be pretty hard to see through the chopped windows anyway.
In the meantime, I painted the cab and other parts with Tamiya TS14 Black. The finish isn't great, but it's getting a coat of two of flat clear so that's fine. I just wanted to avoid the silvering issues the decals seem to face going over a flat paint job. After that dried, some decals were laid down. This is probably the most difficult decal job I've done to date, mostly because of the need to trim, overlap, layer, etc. The size of some of the parts didn't make it any easier, but more on that soon.
Unfortunately, I ran into a problem with one of my sheets I ordered specifically for this project. It seems to be the decals are either old, of there's a defect in the adhesive. Every one I tried from this particular sheet had this haze in the clear part. Not good for going over black.
The headlights and grill shell were two of the most troublesome spots to decal. A lot of Micro Sol and Set had to be used, but man do I love how it looks.
I ended up removing the tailgate decal and resoaking it in warm water while rubbing it between my fingers. There's still a haze to it, but not nearly as bad. The dullcote should help even it out more.
After getting the decals out of the way, I decided to finish the engine.
I also got the dash painted up.
And here's a shot after the flat was applied. The finish looks nice and smooth, the decals now look like they're painted on and that haze on the tailgate seemed to disappear. Something has to go wrong now, that's just the rule lol.
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Thanks guys. I managed to get a bit more done over the last few days. Hopefully I'll be able to get some pics up tomorrow.
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Ok, so after being laid up with the flu for a bit and having no desire whatsoever to work on anything, I got back to it this week. The first thing I accomplished was making the "injection" stacks out of some aluminum tubing. I've seen a post about using a vice to flare the tips, but I don't have one. Center punch? Nope, none of those either lol. I ended up having to resort to my Dremel to do the job, with three different tips used on each one to thin the metal and flare it appropriately. It was a pain, but totally worth it in the end.
I also got the visor mounted where I want it. If your familiar with this kit, you'll notice the clunky looking mounting bracket was trimmed down a bit. I think it looks much better this way, for a hotrod anyway.
I also scored a set of resin headers off ebay. They're not the best casting I've ever seen, but after a little cleanup and drilling out the tips, I think they look pretty good. As a bonus, the tube spacing looks appropriate for the 440 block that's going in it.
Just for fun (and because the 1:1 has one), I decided to make a gas pump nozzle shifter out of some plastic strip and rod, a small bead, and two pieces of wire. It looks kinda silly now, but after paint it should be fine.
I also got the final mockup put together. Now it's time for some paint
In the meantime, I finally found a reference pic of the 1:1 I'm trying to imitate. Mine seems to sit a tad bit lower, but I sort of like it that way.
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That top looks really nice. I think it looks like someone could even drive this if they were 1/25 our size. A thought on the engine mount. You might create an engine mount that drops down from the frame then curves to meet the side of the engine in the normal manor. Or if you want to use a mount like many race cars use, an engine plate that mount to the front of the engine and to the chassis. This way you could set the front of the engine at a height that would keep it level and the drive shaft would clear your floor boards. One problem you may run into is that now that the frame is Z'd the oil pan may be on the ground. Of course if you have an old NASCAR engine laying around you could always go with a dry sump oiling system. The old rule of thumb was that no part of the chassis or drive line could hang any lower than the outer edge of your wheel rims. The reasoning was that if you got a flat then nothing from under the car would strike the ground. The other alternative on the drive line is to run it level thru the cab and just make a very tall drive tunnel thru the interior, and that may be the easy way to do it.
I think I have it figured out. I decided to make a tranny mount out of a piece of plastic I beam that's keeping the engine sitting level and drive shaft going straight to the rear with no need for fancy U joints or anything. The negative is the floor needed to be cut in half, the seat will need to be cut as well, and a tunnel had to be built. I tried using styrene sheet to build the tunnel, but the tension was too strong to make a clean bend, or keep the floor halves level. Thinking that I just screwed myself, I happened to glance at my almost empty bottle of Loctite and it dawned on me. Cap! not only is it the perfect shape I'm going for, but it was also the perfect size and wouldn't interfere with the seat as bad. Crisis averted, but doing this with a used, glued up cap was a bit of a challenge. First, it had to be cut in half with my dremel's cutting wheel. The fumes of burning superglue feel wonderful on the eyes, btw. After that, a grinding bit was used to get all of the gunk and solid plastic out of the center. After about an hour of work and fume-induced tears, it worked out. It needs to be filled a bit, but I plan on covering the imperfections with some flocking anyway.
I also decided to start work on the crazy dummy Hilborn sported by the 1:1. Even though the thought of a fake Hilborn is kinda lame, I always liked the high-rise look and understood that running a real one on the street isn't the most practical thing in the world. It started out with two pieces of the scrap front frame rails from the 41 kit.
After the spacing was measured, a round file was used to carve out the indents for the lower tubes.
When the was done, some 1/8 tubing was cut to size and glued in place.
Now I'm working on the fuel block, manifold and injector stacks. The stacks are proving to be difficult, though. The flared ends are a pain to do with the tools I have. Maybe this weekend I'll get to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap center punch kit. I know I'm jumping around on this build a lot, but it's keeping me moving lol.
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Thanks for the kind words and compliments everyone! I really appreciate it!
What a great idea with that Hudson, and beautifully done too. How did you mask and paint the roof?
First, I shot the Testors White Lightning on the body, masked the roof and sprayed some Testors Purple-licious. After that, I cut a small piece of lace to size, running from the cowl to the trunk and taped the ends down tight. Two strips of Testors thin line masking tape were run along the edges of the lace to clean up the outside lines a bit. A coat of Testors Diamond Dust was misted over the lace, and the lace and masking tape were peeled off. With the body still masked, some Duplicolor Metalcast Purple (candy paint in a can) was shot over the entire roof, deepening the Purple-licious and leaving a really poppin' purple over the Diamond Dust. The whole car was the shot with 3 coats of Wet Look Clear and polished out. Considering I never get the best results with spray cans, I got really, really lucky and everything went flawlessly.
That's quite an impressive collection, and the variety is spectacular. I don't think any builder could have a more successful year. Outstanding work in every case!
I have only one nit to pick... you need to tone down and darken the copper chains on the tailgate of the rat truck.
Thank you Harry. Any compliment from you is held in high regard and nit picks taken into consideration for future builds. I think it was the lighting I used that make them come off a bit shiny. They were bright silver jewelry chains from a craft store that were dipped in some flat rust paint. I'll have to try a new technique, or just learn how to take pictures lol
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Thanks guys.
Great idea for a build. I remember seeing one at the Good Guys with a similar build and suspension idea. He was tearing up the Autocross track. The engine looks like it is sitting very nose high, don't know if you have finalized the engine mount issues yet.
I'm still working on that one. I need to find a way to support the transmission without interfering with the floor to frame fit. The standard half-hoop cross member isn't working due to the engine sitting twice as high as it should because of the z'd frame. I'm thinking I'll have to make some sort of mount, then cut quite a bit of the floor out and make a tunnel for the tranny. Eh, I'll figure it out lol.
Anyway, I have a small update on this one. I went ahead with my chop top idea and actually got some ok results.
First, I measured out what would be a 3 inch chop and made sure everything was square. After marking my cut lines, I ran a piece of tape around the cab and shot a little gray primer, leaving me with a nice bright, white section showing what needed to go. I know a razor saw is the preferred tool for this, but mine has a super thich handle that was actually making my lines go crooked after I cut so deep. The only solution I could think of was to break out the dremel and a cutting disk, pretend it was a 1:1, and go to town. The good - The thickness of the disk takes out almost a perfect 3 scale inches. The bad - chunks of melted plastic and some pretty jagged cut lines. After lining everything up, it was clear the roof would have to be sectioned and material added to line up with the posts.
After a bit more fitting, filing and sanding, the roof was braced from the inside along the sectioned pieces. The cut lines were then filled in using liquid cement and some plastic rod and shims. Some more trimming and filing produced some decent results. I'm especially happy with being able to kind of save the window lines and drip rails.
After a shot of some filler primer, it's evident that a little work is still required. At this point, it seems the cleanup is equal to or less than that of the resin cab I was thinking about buying, so I'm really not discouraged at all. Being my first chop, or first major body mod in general, I'm pretty happy with the results so far. I'm thinking another primer and cleanup session or two, and this one should be looking pretty decent.
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I'm participating in a same kit build off on Facebook that requires everyone to use the Revell 41 Chevy pickup as the base for their build. I've been looking for a reason to build this kit, so this was just the motivation I needed. I'm doing mine as a low, fenderless hot rod. It will be a real mix and match type of build, flat/satin black in color, but I don't really want to call it a rat due to lack of rust, or traditional due to the modern front suspension and brakes I will be using. What I'm hoping for, and I really mean hoping for, is a really low, mean looking Mopar powered rod that looks similar to the truck my former boss drives. Oh, I forgot to mention, I have one poorly taken pic of the real truck to use as a reference, so hopefully my memory serves me well lol. His happens to be a 35 Dodge anyway, so it won't be correct by default.
Well anyway, here's what I have done so far. I don't have many pics, so I'll try to explain what's going on to the best of my abilities. The frame is a Frankenstein in its own right, being the back half of the 41 Chevy frame mated with the front rails of a 32 Ford. Two small pieces of the scrapped front 41 rails were used to make the kick up for the rear, and the 32 rails were cut on a 45 degree angle just in front of the firewall for a surprisingly straight, double z'd frame. I forgot to mention I've never done extensive frame work, channeling, sectioning, or chopping, so any helpful advice for my next build will be very much appreciated. For now I'm just kinda winging it.
After that was done, the front suspension from the Revell 37 Ford Coupe was used to mimic the Mustang II front end on the 1:1. A lot of trimming on some pretty delicate parts was required to get the cross member/strut assembly wedged down between those narrow 32 rails. By the way, if anyone reading this wants to build said 37 kit, DON'T pay any mind to the instructions for the front suspension assembly. You'll be scratching your head for hours lol. The 37 kit is a 1/24 deal, but with the 41 being a truck kit, the wheel base is actually pretty spot on.
Surprisingly enough, even with the Frankenframe, new front end and stock rear end, when I mocked it up with the wheels/tires I plan on using from the Revell 32 Five Window kit, everything sat nice and level. Yay! 10% skill, 90% luck on that one is what I'm thinking. Even with the nice double z going on, it was painfully obvious the truck would need to be channeled quite a bit. Since I'm trying new things all across the board, why not? A really good chunk was taken out of the firewall and rear of the cab. that got it down where I wanted it.
After that, the box was sectioned (another new trick learned) and a few chunks taken out for frame/axle clearance. I still have to redo the motor mounts and grind out the firewall a bit to get that big 440 in there, but the bulk of the work is behind me.
Hopefully I didn't bore you guys too much. I promise to take more WIP pics. Now for the part I fear the most... taking 3 scale inches of headroom out of that cab. Wish me luck!
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7. Bonneville 29 Model A
8. 56 Chevy Outlaw
9. 55 Chevy Mild Custom
10. 69 Chevy Nova Street/Strip
11. 32 Traditional Full Fender
And last but not least, 12. 53 Hudson, my favorite build to date
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So here's the 2016 roster. I actually got more done this year than I thought and learned a lot along the way. Between scratch building, use of BMF, polishing paint, using an airbrush, etc., 2016 will be looked back on as a year of firsts, some good, some bad. Either way, it was all a learning experience with a wealth of knowledge gained from this awesome forum. As the title suggests, it was also a year of diversity. From rusty to shiny, salt flats to drag strips, daily drivers to Sunday cruisers, I tried to cover it all. 2017 is already getting started with my first rig, channeled rat, and drag rail, but it's gonna be a little while lol.
Well enough talk, here's some pics!
1. 55 Chevy Gasser, with an AMT Parts Pack Blown 421 Pontiac
2. 39 Chevy Gasser
3. 38 Ford Rat Truck
4. Ford Raptor
5. Stock 32 Ford
6. Tim Flock's 55 Chrysler 300
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2016 was a year to be proud of with builds like that. That Dart really got my attention. Great work!
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That's beautiful in every way. I really think those outdoor pics can fool anyone
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Very, very nice, diverse collection. All of these have some really nice features, but they all have one thing in common, and that's the gorgeous paint work. Believe me, I'm jealous lol.
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Both are great, but I LOVE that Ford. The color choice, wheels, stance... it's just perfect!
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Wow man, I'm used to seeing your builds on Facebook, but that tiny phone screen does them no justice! Beautiful work, as always. Can't wait to see what's in store for '17
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Looks great to me. I love the box art for this model and think you pulled it off well. I think I like the deeper color of the bronze better, actually. The foil also looks a lot better than my first attempt. What I learned is burnish it very well, always use a fresh blade (I had no issues doing a 53 Hudson with a single, fresh blade), and try using just the blade, no handle. I think it gives you much better control.
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Wow, unbelievable work! I'm in pretty much perfect health and I can't even fathom pulling off builds like these. Feel better in '17!
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Thanks again guys, and Merry Christmas everyone!
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Thanks a lot for the kind words guys!
Good lookin' build Tyler! My son loves these trucks so I'll be showing him this one today.
Awesome! Hope it gets his approval!
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Awesome suggestions guys, THANK YOU! I totally forgot MCW was even a thing. I've yet to try anything from them, but I'll have to keep them in mind. I just used the last of the paint I have. If it goes south, there's a shop in my town the carries Tamiya paints, an automotive paint supplier that will (hopefully!) mix up a small batch for me, and of course, MCW. Looks like I have some options to ponder now. Thanks again for the help!
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Not a whole lot to report on other than I'm losing my mind over consistent paint issues. To keep me sane and the car in one piece, I decided to mess with some stuff that was going right. I got most of the chassis completely finished and decided to add a bit more detail wiring to the engine. It looks like a rats nest now, but hopefully I can repair yet another botched paint job and get everything routed correctly. Wish me luck guys. I was hoping to have this one done for Christmas
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Ok, I need some help from my Ford experts out there. Is there a good, readily available match to 1956 Ford Peacock Blue out there? Preferably lacquer? I've tried Scale Finishes single stage enamel, and as perfect as the color is, I hate the stuff. No disrespect to the company in question, but I'm on a bit of a time limit with this build and can't wait another month for delivery plus the two or more week curing time. Let me repeat, THIS IS ME BEING PICKY, NOT THE PAINT. I'm not bashing it at all, as the product was 100% what it's advertised as, I just don't care for it. However, I love Tamiya and see that their coral blue may be close. Has anyone used this or a comparable option? I do have an airbrush, so I can shoot just about anything be it a rattle can or jar paint. No water based acrylics, though. I haven't gotten the hang of laying them down yet. Thanks in advance guys!!!
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Thanks guys. Well, disaster struck while painting. I painted the car using Tamiya White Primer and laid down the Peacock Blue from Scale Finishes. I'm not knocking the paint at all, but I just couldn't get a good coat using it. The orange peel (actually, more like grapefruit peel) got sanded out and stuck in a dehydrator for a couple days to make sure it was cured all the way through. After that, I gave it a couple coats of Testors Wet Look Clear and boom, it started wrinkling right away. Yes the SF paint was and enamel, yes the Wet Look is a lacquer and that should've been enough to tell me it was a bad idea, but the cars I've successfully done in this manner and tests I've done with this particular paint suggested everything would be fine. Funny enough, everything WAS fine on the hood and continental kit, just not the body. Luckily, the body is metal and I had some Aircraft Remover laying around. Can you say instant paint removal? The car was completely stripped in about 5 minutes, re-primed and repainted the following day. The orange peel is just as prominent as before, and the coats are thinner than before, so wet sanding this one without burning through is gonna be fuuuuunnnn. I'll post pics of the paint after it leaves the curing box. If I do botch this one, does anybody know of a good match for peacock blue, preferably lacquer based, that I won't have to wait over a month to get? I was thinking Tamiya Coral blue?
Anyway, good news! I got the engine almost completely done, and even though it lacks a lot of detail, the little things distract you and the big air cleaner hides a lot of the not-so-pretty parts. The engine/transmission was treated to a bit of blackwash to accent the lines a bit. The valve covers were also blackwashed to bring out the ribbing. The distributor was drilled and wired, then attached to the engine. A vacuum line was also added, though I'm not sure if it's correct. The reference photos I have suggest it goes either to the back of the carb or the manifold. I decided to go with the manifold hookup and used a piece of solder and a bead to make the piece.
After that was done, my photos also showed what looked to be an arm for the throttle linkage. It's not 100% correct, but it does the job. This was made from three pieces of plastic stock, cut down, glued and painted semi-gloss black.
I also noticed the very prominent fuel filter in my reference pics. The kit provides no such part, so one was made from a piece of plastic rod, two beads and a drop of UV cured glue for the glass bowl. Once again, not perfect, but who is lol
An oil filter label was created by searching for Purolator oil filters on google, finding a suitable image, cropping, resizing and printing out. That and a couple dabs of glue add that little touch that's often ignored. I plan to do the same with the battery and washer fluid bag. The power steering was also plumbed at this time.
Here's the engine with the vacuum, fuel, and power steering lines; throttle linkage and wires. We're not done yet, though...
Here's the complete engine, with the addition of generator wiring, heater hoses and all power steering lines. The headers were done with a red primer base coat, a dusting of gunmetal and a few Tamiya powders. The oil filler tube was lost at some point (maybe 1982. I don't think it was ever in the box) so a replacement was made from a piece from an AMT 49 Ford. I guess one of them won't be getting a Flathead lol. After a bit of trimming, I don't think anyone will be able to tell the difference. Here you can see how that giant air cleaner hides that terrible looking carb. All in all, after some detail work, what was originally only a 10 piece engine builds into a pretty nice looking representation of a 312 Y block.
And last but not least, I got the interior painted. These bucket interiors are always a ton of fun to two tone. No matter what I do, I always get bleed under when I mask. Some of those curves are just impossible to either cut or burnish down completely. After a failed spray attempt, I settled on brush painting with some acrylic paint. The aluminum(?) door accents were done with silver sharpie. The chrome was done with a silver paint pen, which surprisingly enough yields a very nice, super shiny chrome/silver finish in small doses. The piece that looks like it may be a speaker on the door isn't blue, it's silver paint pen. That's how reflective this stuff is! The floor was flocked with blue embossing powder. I see now that it needs a small touch up.
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This one was a bit out of my comfort zone, but it had to be done. I wanted a modern pickup to put in front of a trailer I'll be building soon, but not being one for modern vehicles, I didn't want to waste the money and 2 months putting something together that didn't really interest me, for example the Meng F350. With that in mind, I settled on this snap kit from Revell. I was a bit put off by it being such a simple kit, but it fell together beautifully and ended up being exactly what I was looking for. The body was painted with Duplicolor Perfect Match paint over a flat black base. The base coat was masked off for the trim. The wheels were dechromed and painted satin black. I decided to leave out a lot of the "decals" and go with a more plain appearance. A little detail painting was also done here and there to make what I think is a pretty decent looking curbside. Thanks for looking!
41 Chevy Hotrod
in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Posted
So this is the build I just completed for a same kit build off on a Facebook group. It started off as a Revell 41 Chevy pickup, but after looking at the cab I quickly came to the conclusion that the fenders had to go, it had to sit low and the roof was just a bit too high. After giving it some thought, I decided to imitate the 1:1 truck driven by my former boss, the guy who taught me just about everything I know about hotrods while being a young punk hanging out in his donut shop. Coincidentally, his kid is who got me into building models lol. Even though his is a 35 Dodge, I figured I could still pull off a cool build that would look very similar when complete.
The problem was, I've never tried doing the extensive modifications that would have to be done to pull it off. That's were the build off helped. Maybe it's my competitive side showing, or maybe the need to prove to myself I can do something, but either way, these situations always give me the motivation I need to get over the thought of messing up a $25 kit and just get into it. The biggest challenges were mating 32 Ford front rails with the 41 Chevy frame, chopping the top, channeling the interior, and shortening the box. After a lot of measuring, cutting, filing and sanding, I was very happy with the results during my mockups.
Well, about a month later, here it is, and here's the details:
41 Chevy cab, chopped 3 scale inches
32 Ford front rails mated to 41 Chevy frame, z'd front and back
Mopar 440 with scratch built dummy Hilborn, performance valve covers, scratch built "injection" stacks, and resin headers
Mustang II front suspension
32 Ford grill shell and headlights, MCG spider web grill
Wheels and tires from the Revell 32 5 Window
Tuck and roll interior made from acrylic paint
Scratch built gas pump nozzle shift lever
Pull chain interior light
Scratch tonneau cover
Scratch fire extinguisher puke bottle
Tamiya gloss black, decals from various kits and vendors, trimmed and layered to mimic the 1:1, topped with Testor's dullcote
Well, that's about it. Thanks for looking!