Helipilot16
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Posts posted by Helipilot16
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You guys have convinced me!! I'm going to have to try future on my next paintjob. One question though,can/should the paint be sanded smooth first?
Absolutely! The Future will follow the contours of you model very faithfully, including defects. I always sand my paint, then apply Future. Don't try to use anything over Future. Other polishes will attack it, and you'll have a mess!
Think of Future as the final coat.
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I surfed TCP Global and acording to them they got HOK pearl kits for like 66 bucks two base coat, and 10 pearls in the 2oz bottels, and 4oz bottels and they cary a whole line of HOK brand paint, and a bunch of bulk kits like the pearl set up, NOW unless there just wanting me to order and then hope thier supplier comes thru, I dunno...
House of Kolor and Kustom Kolor are completely different paint.
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Marcus, I found a supplier for the Kustom Kolors. He has quite a bit, and his supplier still has a lot of it from what he told me. Go to www.ltproshop.com . E-mail him to find out how much he is charging for it. The sign said $4.00 a bottle for the small airbrush ones, but he may charge less for a bulk order. Hope this helps.
Mageckman
Thanks; I will call him in the morning. His web site is useless.
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Nice to meet you Marcus,
First off I want to thank you for your service to America, in a very turbulent time in our history. Much respect for you sir.
With your experience in avation, do you build any helo/plane kits?
Good to have you on board, Sir.
I haven't built any aviation models yet, but I have two OH6 helicopters to build soon.
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Nancy and I will be there with a full fendered deuce and '47 convert. I might get more done in time.
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It is set for March 7, 2009 at Santa Clara Convention Center. I will be there with at least 2 models.
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I thought I would tell a little about myself as a way of "breaking the ice".
I graduated from Colorado University in 1966 and was promptly drafted into the Army. I went to OCS and became an officer. After attending flight school, I went to Vietnam in 1968 and came back in 1969. I then became an instructor pilot. I left active duty in 1973 and went into the California National Guard, where I was the chief maintenance officer for the state.
I was stationed at the Pentagon from 1983-1987, when I was the Aviation Maintenance Staff Officer for the Chief of the Army Reserve. I retired in 1987.
I then became a concrete contractor in California and Nevada. I was also a consultant in tilt up concrete design. I closed my business in the mid 90s and went on to my first love; building hot rods.
I retired for good in 2004. I met Nancy in 1990. She is a great granddaughter of W.K. Kellogg; the cereal king. She attended the Berkeley school of textile arts. She is a nationally known tapestry weaver, among other things.
I began building model cars in 1953, when I modified Highway Pioneers Revell models into hot rods. I became a serious gear-head and built many AMT models during the 50s. I recently began building again at the insistence of Nancy.
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I really like the color of the exterior and the interior. Beautiful job!
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I attended many indoor car shows in the 50s and 60s. This beauty would have been a great sweepstakes contender. You've captured the look perfectly.
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interior,paint and hopefully if i can find one, a engine.
Look for a 421 Parts Pack engine kit on Ebay. I see them all the time.
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Dave,
You are, beyond any shadow of a doubt, one of the best builders ever. I am in awe of your work. I "listen" very carefully when you talk about your methods. Thanks for sharing with us.
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You should have been able to use the water pump and oil pump in you engine if it was the correct one for a 350 or 330. All second series Olds engines use the same water and oil pumps, with only minor differences.
It takes an expert to tell the engines from numbers on the blocks. Some 350s came with a big 350 cast into the sides of the block, but most other engines were unmarked; here are the ways to tell the difference:
1. First series (303-394) Olds engines had rectangular valve covers, the later covers were all trapezoids.
2. The big blocks are 1" wider across the block measured at the heads.
3. 330s used shaft mounted rocker arms; all other late engines use independent rockers.
4. '68 and later big blocks have a large F cast into the front of the block.
5. Earlier big blocks had a D in the same place.
I hope this helps.
Marcus
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Marcus, I'd always thought the 394s were bored out 330s. I guess I was wrong. Here's the story that goes along w/ it. Back in the 80s I bought 2 64 Olds cars to build my son one good car. One was a 2dr and the was a 4rd. The 2dr was in better shape so that's the one I fixed. The 2dr had a 330 in it and the other I'd thought someone had put a later 350 in it, since I couldn't find any marks on the block. So I ordered a rebuild kit for a 350. Everything fit fine except for the water & oil pump. Those I ordered as 400 parts. While installing the water pump I could just see the block mark and it was for a 394. I finished the build and we put it in and it ran fine. I still have the 330 out in the garage in the corner. If I ever get to build a hot rod I thought of rebuilding the 330 for it.
Olds simply carried forward the 394 for one more year in 1964. The 330 was an entirely new design. The differences between the 330s and 350s is minor. the 330 has a superior forged steel crank. You can use this crank in either block. The heads on the two are different, as the 330s had rocker shafts, while the 350s had the later independent rockers (similar to Chevys).
As for interchangeability, most things can be swapped between the two blocks. Use the #6 heads for the best performance. If you can, get a set of heads with 2 inch valves, although a machine shop can install the larger valves in any head. As for cams, use an aftermarket cam (I like the Lunati Bracket Master) as the factory never did put a decent cam in these engines. Interestingly, the same cams are used in all 330s, 350s and 68 and later big blocks. The 65-67 big blocks used a different lifter angle, so the cams are different.
Get yourself an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold and you're ready to make over 350 HP.
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Marcus,I too have every color that was available and have yet to use it.I have spray cans and bottles with little knowledge on how to use it the right way,any pointers would really be helpful.I really don't want to sell them cause those are some cool colors.I do own a Pasche dbl. action air brush with compressor and also have a Badger beginners air brush that uses the compressed air in the can.I just don't know how to mix the paint,do I use the thinner or the reducer and at what ratio.Can I use lacquer thinner when I'm out of thinner/reducer????Again any tips would really be helpful.
I did use the Tangelo Orange from the spray can on a Camaro and had a problem with it not sticking in the door seams and the trunk seam.I ended up spraying a Tamiya Orange for a base coat and that solved the problem.Did I do something wrong the first time???I also used the white primer for a base coat the first time.
I have never bought or used the spray cans. I bought it in 1 oz bottles. Mix that with 1 oz of reducer/thinner. When you run out of the reducer/thinner, then use lacquer thinner. When you mix it with lacquer thinner, it will make the paint streak on the inside of your mixer bottle. Don't let that worry you; it's just the result of the chemical imbalance. It will still spray nicely.
Spray it with 35 lbs of air pressure through a number 3 needle/cap/tip. spray it just as you would lacquer; that is use three thin coats, finishing with a wet coat. It's important to lay it on wet.
Perhaps the spray bottles were thinned a bit too much; although I have no direct knowledge of that.
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Holy ######! 450 cu.in. was alot back then. Thanks Helipilot16. Thats very helpful. I want to build a 50's gasser with that engine and wanted to make sure it would go.
These were very popular engines all through the 50s and early 60s. Their popularity was due in part to their stout bottom ends. By the mid 60s they had all but disappeared as they were replaced by early and late Chrysler hemis.
These early engines were replaced in Oldsmobiles beginning in 1964 by the then new 330s. This same engine design became the 400s and 425s in 1965. These became 350s, 400s, and 455s in 1968. The later design was based on the 394 but there were no common parts between the two. The later design never did catch on with rodders even though it is a good design. I have built many late Olds 350s and 455s.
If you have any Olds engine questions, just ask as I'm considered an expert on them.
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This engine was produced from 1949 to 1964. The displacements were as follows; 303 from '49-'53; 324 from '54-56; 371 from '57-59; 394 from '59-64.
The best engines were the 394s. They could be bored and stroked to 450 cubic inches or so.
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I have purchased all of the Kustom Kolor paint I could find. It has become my paint of choice. I have about 100 bottles of different colors, but would like more, but it's been discontinued.
If any of you have Kustom Kolor paint you would like to sell, I'm buying. Let me know what you have and I'll make an offer.
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I would use straight pins on the posts. I drill a hole in the post at each point where it is broken. I use a pin vice for this operation. Use a drill bit the same size as the straight pin. Glue with Tenax or Proweld, then a tiny bit of epoxy glue. Here is a view of the pin insrted and the pin vice:
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I have now completed the new body. I'm waiting for the paint to cure before final clearing and polish. I will be taking the engine and wheels from the old one, otherwise everything else is new.
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There are a couple of different tapes from Tamiya. I've found the greenish grey stuff a little too stiff for my tastes but the gold tape might be the best I've ever used. I use the 1/4 in stuff for separations and blue tape for overall coverage. Very thin, supremely flexible with great adhesion.
Now that the Walmart line has been killed, where can I get reducer to use all the paint that I bought on sale? Or is there a substitute for the Kustom Kolor reducer?
I use medium temp lacquer thinner. It isn't a perfect fit with the KK paint, but it's the best available. Do not use oil based thinners; they will simply curdle the paint.
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I have decided that the paint job on this one is irredeemable
. That's OK, though, as I have many more bodies I can use. Instead of stripping this one, I will build another. -
Those front fenders wrap nicely around the front wheels. Did you do anything to the front suspension or is it that the full fenders really improve the stance of the Revell kit? The overall look is surprisingly contemporary. The last one you built must have been quite different. Nice build!
I was going for a contemporary look. The suspension is the dropped axle that is stock with the kit. The one I built in 1960 was a five window channeled with full fenders. It also had a Hemi. I may try to duplicate it some day.
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Nice rod. Not sure I understand how the addition of the fenders caused you problems with the interior? They are not related. I have built a fendered Revell roadster and had no problems.
When I first mocked up the model, the fenders didn't go far enough up into the wheel well. In order to fix the problem, I had to channel the body slightly. This entailed cutting some off the door panels and other interior modifications. Without these modifications there would have been a gap between the rear fender and the body.
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As you can see, I still need to polish the paint some more. The spot on the front fender is simply a flash reflection.
. That's OK, though, as I have many more bodies I can use. Instead of stripping this one, I will build another.
Who Am I?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Loaches and slicks. I was first in slicks, then became the scout platoon leader.