Helipilot16

I have found no satisfactory substitute for foil adhesive. I believe Walmart carries it.

I bumped this up to show the results of using Reynolds Wrap.

On the "other" forum I posted a tutorial on foiling using Reynolds Wrap. I will repeat it here. First; the advantages: It is much stronger and less likely to tear. It doesn't "bunch up" in front of the blade while cutting it, making blades last longer. It polishes beautifully and can be cleared over. It is very cheap. I bought a roll of 24 square feet for a buck at a dollar store. Don't use cheaper store brands or generic. Use Reynolds Wrap. 1. Cut out a piece slightly larger than what you want for trim. Use a #11 exacto blade or the equivalent. 2. Spread a thin coat of foil adhesive on the dull side.. I buy Mona Lisa at Michaels. 3. Let it sit until it dries (ideally one hour). 4. Apply to the model. 5. Trim as you would BMF. 6. Clean up with water using a microfiber cloth. 7. Wait for the oohs and aahs. Check out my '47 Ford in the workbench section for a look at the results.

Walmart discontinued models and modeling supplies well over a year ago. It was purely a merchandising decision. The shelf space could better be used for other toys and games. One direct result was the discontinuance of Kustom Kolor paint by Valspar. They simply could not get other outlets to carry them. I have found some of the paint with Great Planes, but they are quickly running out. Stevens International might have a few bottles left.

Well said! While Nancy isn't a typical wife and never complains, my two best friends have to be reminded of what you said in your post. It's your life; spend it the way you want!!

Try Novus #1 polish and cleaner. I use it to get rid of all my "nasties". It absolutely will not harm the paint.

Here it is with some Reynolds Wrap foiling.

It's a 50 year old photograph, so it's impossible to tell by the picture. The original color was true candy apple red. I have gotten as close to that original color as possible.

I have edited my avatar to more closely approximate the color of the original. The other was too dark

I have now added the grill and front bumper.

That's my experience also.

My wife Nancy is the reason I got back into the hobby. A few years back I was forced into an early retirement by health issues. At first I spent time in the garage working on 1:1 cars. As I grew physically weaker, this became untenable. I began to look around for a pastime. Nancy recommended that I finish some of the models I had startd years ago. As my passion for the hobby grew, she became even more supportive. She oohs and aahs appropriately over my latest paint job. She proudly displays completed models in our living room. She attends model shows with me (you will be able to meet her at NNL West this year). She has helped me convert a spare bedroom into my "man cave". She has her own artistic interests. She is a handweaver and textile artist. This means she has a deep appreciation for creative endeavers. In short, she has made the hobby that much more enjoyable for me.

Actually synching the engines is unecessary and adds nothing to the performance. The horsepower of each engine is added to that of the others regardless of throttle setting or engine speed. One old trick from early drag racing was to start the quarter on one engine and kick the other one in at mid track. The Bustle Bomb was run that way. Mickey Thompson used to use a blown chrysler and an unblown flathead in tandem.

Get a plastic spoon and try it.

I joined up over a year ago, but then life got in the way of modeling. Most know me from the "other" forum, which is now almost imossible to get on. I am back modeling full time now, so you will see much more of me

I plead guity as charged

I quit trying to get on the "other" main website some time ago when it became obvious that they had screwed it up royally. Like the rest of you, I now enjoy being on here much more since my old friends from the the other site are now members here. I am now building almost full time again and hope to have some models to post "under glass" soon. I will be at NNL West in March with my lovely wife Nancy. I hope to see as many of you as possible then. My "featured" model is going to be the '47 Ford that will match my avatar. The picture is of the actual car; which is the ex Dick Graese car, whis is no green but was origianally candy apple red. If history is any guide, I will be posting on here often.

So far I haven't needed reducer beyond a couple of small bottles. I used it with the HE108 Gold I used for a base. I sprayed the color coat straight out of the bottle! It covered quickly and smoothly. I always use ColorPlace Equipment Grey Primer under all my paint.

Early 60s Studebaker Lark

Here are two different versions of a '47 Ford convertible. The one on the left was built and painted before I got a picture of the car I was trying to emulate. It was painted using House of Color paint from Black Gold. The other was recently painted using Kustom Kolor paint. The latter one is slightly more orange. There are minor differences in the bodywork of the two. Look at the picture in my avatar to see what I am aiming for.

I would be concerned about using a kitchen or bathroom blower. I read somewhere that at least 200 cfm is needed. My weed blower (used on the vacuum side) puts out roughly 400 cfm. Since there is no venturi effect on the vacuum side with the large opening of the spray booth, you can't actually feel the air move. When I am painting, the overspray (which is directed outside the house) immediately disappears. To avoid the accumulation of paint on the walls of the booth (which can fall back on the model), I lined it with newspaper; which I change periodically.

I used a Toro weed blower mounted in the roof of my booth. It is a little noisy but really pumps out the air (would you believe 250 MPH?).

I recently bought a 20 pack of Ultra Soft Micorofiber Auto Cloths from a paint store. It is extremely soft and will not scratch paint, even when used dry over dust. This 20 should last me a lifetime.

I use ColorPlace equipment grey primer exclusively for all paints. It is available in a spray can for about a buck at Walmart. I have gone to a Paasche Vl double action airbrush for all my finish painting (particularly for large areas). A little practice with an airbrush wil open your eyes to the ultimate finish. My favorite paint is the now discontinued Kustom Kolor line. It is a hybrid lacquer/enamel system. I thin it with oil based thinner. I have accumulated about 70 bottles of it from Great Planes. I think they have a few bottles left.

These paints are a hybrid enamel/lacquer. Thin them with either enamel or lacquer thinner. I prefer the lacquer for its faster curing. Great Planes is still carrying them although their production at Valspar has ceased. I have about 40 bottles and am getting more through my dealer.