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Everything posted by Helipilot16
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Loaches and slicks. I was first in slicks, then became the scout platoon leader.
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Future Floor Finish
Helipilot16 replied to Helipilot16's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Absolutely! The Future will follow the contours of you model very faithfully, including defects. I always sand my paint, then apply Future. Don't try to use anything over Future. Other polishes will attack it, and you'll have a mess! Think of Future as the final coat. -
I will buy your KK paint.
Helipilot16 replied to Helipilot16's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
House of Kolor and Kustom Kolor are completely different paint. -
I will buy your KK paint.
Helipilot16 replied to Helipilot16's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Thanks; I will call him in the morning. His web site is useless. -
I haven't built any aviation models yet, but I have two OH6 helicopters to build soon.
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Nancy and I will be there with a full fendered deuce and '47 convert. I might get more done in time.
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It is set for March 7, 2009 at Santa Clara Convention Center. I will be there with at least 2 models.
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I thought I would tell a little about myself as a way of "breaking the ice". I graduated from Colorado University in 1966 and was promptly drafted into the Army. I went to OCS and became an officer. After attending flight school, I went to Vietnam in 1968 and came back in 1969. I then became an instructor pilot. I left active duty in 1973 and went into the California National Guard, where I was the chief maintenance officer for the state. I was stationed at the Pentagon from 1983-1987, when I was the Aviation Maintenance Staff Officer for the Chief of the Army Reserve. I retired in 1987. I then became a concrete contractor in California and Nevada. I was also a consultant in tilt up concrete design. I closed my business in the mid 90s and went on to my first love; building hot rods. I retired for good in 2004. I met Nancy in 1990. She is a great granddaughter of W.K. Kellogg; the cereal king. She attended the Berkeley school of textile arts. She is a nationally known tapestry weaver, among other things. I began building model cars in 1953, when I modified Highway Pioneers Revell models into hot rods. I became a serious gear-head and built many AMT models during the 50s. I recently began building again at the insistence of Nancy.
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I really like the color of the exterior and the interior. Beautiful job!
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I attended many indoor car shows in the 50s and 60s. This beauty would have been a great sweepstakes contender. You've captured the look perfectly.
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Look for a 421 Parts Pack engine kit on Ebay. I see them all the time.
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60's styled 2005 "RETRO-VETTE" COUPE
Helipilot16 replied to E St. Kruiser50's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Dave, You are, beyond any shadow of a doubt, one of the best builders ever. I am in awe of your work. I "listen" very carefully when you talk about your methods. Thanks for sharing with us. -
What is that Olds engine?
Helipilot16 replied to noname's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
You should have been able to use the water pump and oil pump in you engine if it was the correct one for a 350 or 330. All second series Olds engines use the same water and oil pumps, with only minor differences. It takes an expert to tell the engines from numbers on the blocks. Some 350s came with a big 350 cast into the sides of the block, but most other engines were unmarked; here are the ways to tell the difference: 1. First series (303-394) Olds engines had rectangular valve covers, the later covers were all trapezoids. 2. The big blocks are 1" wider across the block measured at the heads. 3. 330s used shaft mounted rocker arms; all other late engines use independent rockers. 4. '68 and later big blocks have a large F cast into the front of the block. 5. Earlier big blocks had a D in the same place. I hope this helps. Marcus -
What is that Olds engine?
Helipilot16 replied to noname's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Olds simply carried forward the 394 for one more year in 1964. The 330 was an entirely new design. The differences between the 330s and 350s is minor. the 330 has a superior forged steel crank. You can use this crank in either block. The heads on the two are different, as the 330s had rocker shafts, while the 350s had the later independent rockers (similar to Chevys). As for interchangeability, most things can be swapped between the two blocks. Use the #6 heads for the best performance. If you can, get a set of heads with 2 inch valves, although a machine shop can install the larger valves in any head. As for cams, use an aftermarket cam (I like the Lunati Bracket Master) as the factory never did put a decent cam in these engines. Interestingly, the same cams are used in all 330s, 350s and 68 and later big blocks. The 65-67 big blocks used a different lifter angle, so the cams are different. Get yourself an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold and you're ready to make over 350 HP. -
I will buy your KK paint.
Helipilot16 replied to Helipilot16's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I have never bought or used the spray cans. I bought it in 1 oz bottles. Mix that with 1 oz of reducer/thinner. When you run out of the reducer/thinner, then use lacquer thinner. When you mix it with lacquer thinner, it will make the paint streak on the inside of your mixer bottle. Don't let that worry you; it's just the result of the chemical imbalance. It will still spray nicely. Spray it with 35 lbs of air pressure through a number 3 needle/cap/tip. spray it just as you would lacquer; that is use three thin coats, finishing with a wet coat. It's important to lay it on wet. Perhaps the spray bottles were thinned a bit too much; although I have no direct knowledge of that. -
What is that Olds engine?
Helipilot16 replied to noname's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
These were very popular engines all through the 50s and early 60s. Their popularity was due in part to their stout bottom ends. By the mid 60s they had all but disappeared as they were replaced by early and late Chrysler hemis. These early engines were replaced in Oldsmobiles beginning in 1964 by the then new 330s. This same engine design became the 400s and 425s in 1965. These became 350s, 400s, and 455s in 1968. The later design was based on the 394 but there were no common parts between the two. The later design never did catch on with rodders even though it is a good design. I have built many late Olds 350s and 455s. If you have any Olds engine questions, just ask as I'm considered an expert on them. -
What is that Olds engine?
Helipilot16 replied to noname's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
This engine was produced from 1949 to 1964. The displacements were as follows; 303 from '49-'53; 324 from '54-56; 371 from '57-59; 394 from '59-64. The best engines were the 394s. They could be bored and stroked to 450 cubic inches or so. -
I have purchased all of the Kustom Kolor paint I could find. It has become my paint of choice. I have about 100 bottles of different colors, but would like more, but it's been discontinued. If any of you have Kustom Kolor paint you would like to sell, I'm buying. Let me know what you have and I'll make an offer.
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Need help fixing Door problem
Helipilot16 replied to hungry4knowhow's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I would use straight pins on the posts. I drill a hole in the post at each point where it is broken. I use a pin vice for this operation. Use a drill bit the same size as the straight pin. Glue with Tenax or Proweld, then a tiny bit of epoxy glue. Here is a view of the pin insrted and the pin vice: -
I have now completed the new body. I'm waiting for the paint to cure before final clearing and polish. I will be taking the engine and wheels from the old one, otherwise everything else is new.
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House of Kolors paints
Helipilot16 replied to Fuel Coupe's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I use medium temp lacquer thinner. It isn't a perfect fit with the KK paint, but it's the best available. Do not use oil based thinners; they will simply curdle the paint. -
I have decided that the paint job on this one is irredeemable . That's OK, though, as I have many more bodies I can use. Instead of stripping this one, I will build another.
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I was going for a contemporary look. The suspension is the dropped axle that is stock with the kit. The one I built in 1960 was a five window channeled with full fenders. It also had a Hemi. I may try to duplicate it some day.
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When I first mocked up the model, the fenders didn't go far enough up into the wheel well. In order to fix the problem, I had to channel the body slightly. This entailed cutting some off the door panels and other interior modifications. Without these modifications there would have been a gap between the rear fender and the body.
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As you can see, I still need to polish the paint some more. The spot on the front fender is simply a flash reflection.