CrazyCrank

Afternoon, guys Well, a final hinge has been fabricated and tested. All works smoothly and fit perfectly. Moreover, the hinge is adjustable and the door can be removed as many times it's needed . I've made the tests on the broken bodywork , and now, it remains to fabricate a second one for the right door. Then, I could begin to cut the doors out on the second body, one by one. I've used: - 0.8 m brass tube, 0.6 mm inner diameter - 0.6 mm steel wire - various twizzers to shape the wire in order to form the hinge - Adhesiv gum to fix temporarily the branches of the hinge inside the door - 2 mm square plastic rod, in which I dug a 0.8 mm groove on the milling machine, to trap the brass tube of the hinge inside the bodywork. - Masking tape to maintain the door in the right position, while I was adjusting the hinge by the inside Some photos in chronological sequence will explain you the process better than a long speech That's all for now, guys

Evening guys A bit of progress today: 1/ the tests for the 3D printing of the dash are finished And the surprise is that the first prints at 103 and 104 %, in 20 microns layers, shrank only by 0.8 mm in 48 hours, and 0.0 mm after. This is significantly less than with the prints in 50 microns. So, after 48 and 96 hours, they remain far too big fir fitting correctly in the windscreen frame. I launched 3D prints in 101 and 102 % a few hours after the previous print, but on a second and new printing plate. And after less than 6 hours, the base of the supports began to unstick from the plate. After 12 hours, all supports were totally detached from the plate. Nevertheless, I went on with the tests. And those print have shrunk a bit more than the 103 and 104%, which remained, them, strongly attached on the printing plate during the 48 hours I wanted them to be fixed. Luckily, there has been no twisting at all ! So today, after 96 hours drying, the 101% is too short, but, surprisingly the 102% print has almost exactly the length I expected : 54,25 mms vs 54.27 (on the drawing). It has shrunk 1.08 mm since the 102% drawing was 55.35 mm (54.27 for the 100% drawing), so exactly 2%. I have printed three 102% dashboards . One has been damaged when I cut the supports out, but I have 2 in excellent state. I've made a test fitting in the windscreen frame and it fits perfectly. It remains to complete the dash, to paint it and to keep it for the final state of this build, when I install it on the body. 2/ The tests for the door hinges progress correctly In fact, you just have to reverse the hinge, i.e. place the pivot point inside the body, and the fixed point inside the door, to reverse the movement. When the door is opened, its front edge moves away from the body, instead of going inside. It remains now to make 2 final hinges on the same principle, improving the shapes, the mechanical aspect and the aesthetics of the thing. The hinge, once the door is cut, will be precisely positioned and fixed in the body and will stay there during the rest of the assembly. The two horizontal metal extensions of the hinge shall be inserted with gentle friction on brass or aluminium tubes glued in the correct position inside the door. The door will be detachable from the hinge once the hinge position is permanently fixed; it can then be worked freely, improved, painted etc. It could then be easily glued in its final position on the hinge pins at the end of the assembly process. [ Stay connected if you like

Afternoon guys I publish always my builds on several sites, and a French modeler, friends of mine, pointed out that I was wrong about the door opening kinematics of the BMW 507 !!!! And, by the hell, he is right ! On his car, when you open the door, the front edge doesn't enter the bodywork as I thought mistakenly. On the contrary, the front edge of the door swings outwards when it is opened ! And he posted 2 photos and a drawing to show me how it worked on this car: It will be much more easy now with this knowledge, to fabricate the hinges and install them So I go back to my bench to fabricating theses hinges and test them on the broken bodywork Stay connected

I built it as a teenager, but lost it during my successive movings. I don' t remember to have seen such an issue, and have not yet measured the dimensions of the one which is in my stash. Asap, I'll do that on my kit and compare with the Pocher 1/8 size. I can see that your engine block is about1.4 inches so 3.55 cm. I just measured the length of the same part on my T50 Pocher 1:8, and I found about 10 cm, so 3.33 inches. I looks rather correct, don't you think so ? Obviously, this does not mean that the block is the right height, just that it is the same length

Sorry mate ! the T50 Bugatti is available as a Heller Kit in 1:24. I've one of them in my stash The kit is always continued by the brand, and you can find it either new (in France: Here), either second-hand (for instance on Ebay USA) Obviously the kit is sold at an insane price in US : almost $90 when it's 21 € in Europe) It would be cheaper to buy it in Europe and pay the shipping fees ?

Thank you so much @drifterdon for this kind praise

You're as stubborn as le when you've decided something Nice job and finally good looking aspect ! It remembre me when I decided to drill all the holes of the gril of my Bugatti T50 Pocher 1/8 scale: I hadn't at this time any honeycomb mesh, so I drilled the plastic in the holes between the meshes: more than 1000 0.6 mm holes hand drilled. But the result was worth the pain

Afternoon guys While my tests on 3D printing the dash are going on, I've begun to think about the doors hinges. Initially, I thought I would be able to fabricate and install the door hinges after having glued the tub inside the bodywork , but my recent tests show that it will not be possible (for me) So, I've begun to work on them. My goal if to get an accurate and real cinematic when opening the doors, I mean, when you open the door of a car, its front edge enters the bodywork instead of moving away from it. I thought deeply and seen some inspiring videos on Youtube and ... let's go ! As a precaution, I'll do all my tests on the first broken body, which I reinforced for the occasion so it won't break again. And here is the current state The hinge has been fabricated with brass tube and 0.5 mm steel wire, a piece of styrène drilled twice 0.6 mm. The axle of rotation is situated on the inside of the door, on the front edge, that has been thinned of 50% (I've dig a groove at this place) The few point is inside the body, in front of the door. A lot of adjustments had to be done, and, temporarily, the position of the styrene piece which goes inside the bodywork has been modified and maintained with adhesive gum (UHU Patafix) It open smoothly, without catching ! Now, I've to improve the system, always on the broken bodywork, modifying the styrene piece (Increase its size, modify shapes) in order to avoid the adhesive gum and glue it in place definitely to test the system. If all's OK, I'll be able to fabricate 2 final hinges for the new bodywork in the same way BUT, there's always a but: I shall not leave the unfinished and unpainted doors definitely glued on the unpainted bodywork. Indeed, to finish the doors, with their inside face, le filling of the gaps on the front and the rear between the door and its inside, and to paint them, they must be free, and I must have glued the tub inside the bodywork BEFORE, in order to adjust correctly the inside of the door so it fit well with the tub. So, it's only once that done (the bodywork painted, the tub achieved and glued etc) , that l can put and fix the finished doors, and for that, I will only have a very little free space between the bodywork in front of the door, and the side wall of the tub at this level, to insert the two pieces of steel wire of the hinge into their respective holes on the styrene piece. It will be a difficult and painful job, assuming I get there ! If anybody see a better and easier solution to this problem, I'll be happy to have him exhibit It ! ? See you later

Thanks for this comment @BVC500, much appreciated I'm going to make the part available for purchase. But, I'm still going on with my tries. After having measured the shrinkage of the prints when time passes for my drafts printed in 50 microns layers, I've just printed my final version V12 in 20 microns layers at 103 and 104%, percentages that seemed to be convenient . The print is absolutely perfect, just when I've cleaned it and after UV curing. BUT, there' always a "but"...After curing, the shrinkage was insignificant and 2 hours after curing, it's only 0.2 mm when it was about 0,75 mm for the drafts at 50 microns ! I've obviously to wait the next steps: 12 / 24/ 48 /72 hours drying to see if it will increase or not, and in which proportions. Anticipating a insufficient shrinkage with the 103 and 104%, which wouldn't allow to reach the exact size I need (about 54,3 mm +/- 0,2), I just launched a new print in 101 and 102% . Decidedly, 3D printing technic parts with 3D resin isn't an easy task ! So, @BVC500, you will understand that I can't sell these parts until I have found the exact percentage increase in size to be applied during the printing process so that after a long drying time of 72 to 96 hours under the conditions already described above, the part will have the required dimensions of a few tenths of a millimetre to fit the windscreen frame perfectly. Well, not a big problem, it's just a question of time and tries Be patient

Merci Pierre Yes it took two kits, as usual when I decide to over-detail my model, or modify their bodywork, if I make some irreparable mistakes... Nice to see here a Quebecer. My younger son live in Montreal too, and we visit him regularly, next time in January ?

Wow !!! Splendid model and color chart ! Love it ?

An utterly amazing model and your painting job does it justice. Congrats

Thanks a lot guys door your kind comments and interest for my builds Stay connected for the current one: BMW 507 ?

Thanks @Bugatti Fan yes it's a shame that Heller is so negligent in the molding of those kits, knowing that It's the only brand which is interested in vintage European cars ! Thank you so much for this huge praise ?

Thank you guys (ChrisR, 1959Scudetto, Slusher and Spencer1984) for your kind comments ! Much appreciated as always ?

Thank you so much Thanks for this huge praise. I did my best with this one Really ? Thank you ? Thank so much for this huge praise Regarding the Uhlenhaut, a kit has been offered to me for free several month ago by a modeler from another from, but he never send it to me and clearly will never do it. I found a kit on "LeBonCoin.fr", but wasn't quick enough to buy it. Now, I can found one on bay Austria for 80 € !!! Obviously it's out of question to pray such an insane price ! I keep searching... It's very kind of you to make such a compliment Good luck for you Uhlenhaut quest ?

Morning guys I've slightly modified some things and added 2 missing parts: - The ignition key housing, below the meters on the right of the steering column - The stand for the choke handle on the left end underside of the dash All that stuff has been sliced, 3 pieces in 103% and 3 in 104% . And will be printed today in 20 microns layers. Hopefully the prints will be as good as the previous ones ? See you soon

Good evening guys: Since early September, I'm working on the design and 3D printing of the new dashboard fors this BMW 507 series 2. I finally achieved to obtain the right curves and dimensions, exactly the same the the kit part, what is mandatory to get a correct fit in the body. However, I faced some expected print issues with the first drafts ! It's a well known problem that the 3D resin print has the bad tendency to shrink and bend several hours after UV curing. The larger and thinner the part, the bigger the problem ! The just 3D print thing, before curing, had the same dimensions than the drawing. But after curing, from the first hour, the part shrunk and twisted, slightly first, and after 24 hours, this was much more important ! To such an extent that the part was no longer usable ! It seemed to me, according to my first observations, that this phenomenon is less marked if the piece is left to dry on its base with its supports. So I made a comparative table with Excel on this phenomenon, measuring the size at the exit of the printer tray, the presence or not of a curvature of the straight lines after drying, the size after UV curing, the size after drying on a base or not after 1 hour, 2 hours, 12 , 24 and 48 hours for prints at different scales: - 100, 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105%. And I also measured, in case of curvature of the piece, the size after manual reduction of this curvature, on the piece dried 24 and 48 hours. All this job has been is very time consuming, which explains my silence for several days. Some pictures of the 3D drawing, in its initial state (far to be achieved and complete). A few days later, my tests were not yet not finished but it was already possible to draw conclusions. On the photos below, you can see a comparison between : - On the right: 103% size prints left to dry almost 48 hours. On the rear it dried on its supports, and on the front, it dried free of supports. Design V7. - On the left: 103% size prints with the same drying conditions, but with a modified design which increased the thickness of the wall. Design Called V8 What we can see: - There is a curvature on the straight lower portion on the 4 drafts, - This curvature is much less important when the draft has dried on its supports. This is visible for the V7 and V8 drafts - And it's much more important on the V7 drafts (thinner wall) - The shrinkage is bigger on the V7 drafts which have thin walls than on the V8 ones, with thicker walls. - And the size reduction is significantly bigger for the drafts which dried without supports (about 3.5 mm vs 2.0 mm) Anticipating such results, I quickly decided not to wait more for incorporating on the design new structs on non visible sections, that strengthen the build and intend to prevent the bending. I took this opportunity to modify of the meters surrounding , to prevent the waves you can see on the picture above I printed this design 100%, 101, 102 and 103%, and measured the sizes just after printing, just after UV curing and then after 1, 2, 12 and 24 hours of drying. But, this time, I've left dried the 4 drafts on their supports, and the supports left attached on the printing plate. And the results were much more different after 24 hours : There was really no bending, and the shrinkage varied from 1.09 to 1.27 mm ? So, I went on with my tests ! I decided to let them dry in these conditions until 48 hours, and then to let them dry 24 hours more, but after detaching the supports of the printing plate, and at last 24 hours more free of all supports. And to measure the sizes and the hypothetical twisting at all steps. And this is how all that came out at the end: The V8 versions (wall thickness increased but no reinforcement structs), that dried after having been detached from the printing plate had finally, after 48 hours drying : - for those that dried over their supports a slight distortion and a average shrinkage of 2mm - And for those that dried without their supports a major distortion and an average shrinkage of 3.5 mm The V9 versions (wall thickness increased and reinforcements structs), had finally after having dry 48 hours on their supports, themselves attached on the printing plate, then 24 hours more with supports detached of the printing plate, and at last, 24 hours more detached of their supports: - Horizontal and vertical distortion: Absolutely none - An average shrinkage of 1.40 mm The draft which size has been increased of 3% in the slicer has a final size of 51.00 mm, when 51.04 mm is the theoretic expected size for an optimal fitting on the bodywork. Nevertheless, I made also tests with 104 and 105% drafts for 2 days. But it was now clearly evident that 103 or perhaps 104% are the good factors. Little size comparison between the kit part and the 3D printed one (103%) And I did a test fitting of the V9 103% on the windshield frame: As you can see, there was a lack of material on the left and right ends, so, I modified the 3D design: And I printed it in draft mode (50 microns layer) in 101%, 102%, 103%, 104% and 105% . After 4 days drying in the already described conditions, I got yesterday the final results of all tests, and here is what I can say about the resin 3D prints, their shrinkage and their tendency to twist: - With my last V10 draft, I incorporated reinforcement structs - I've printed 100%, 101-102-103-104 and 105% drafts - The prints dried 96 hours, 48 attached to their supports, themselves fixes to the printing plate, then 24 hours only on their supports and at last 24 hours free of any support. In this way, contrary to the previous tests without reinforcement structs or drying free of supports since the UV curing, there was absolutely no twisting, even after having detached the prints form their supports. And the shrinkage has been very moderate during the first 48 hours, and very low after. It reached an average of about 1.3 mm for all the sizes after 96 hours, of which 1.0 mm during the 48 first ones. The 103 and 104% prints are the ones whose size is closest to the required dimensions. I've made this afternoon a test fitting of the 103% and 104% on the windshield frame, where the dash will be glued, and the 103% is the best, at the moment (because I don't know what will happen in terms of shrinkage with the final prints in 20 microns layers) The lateral reinforcement structs had to be cut out for a good fitting of the dash and hereunder you can see some pictures I took in a hurry, after a temporary glueing (with canopy glue) of the dash on the windshield frame, and the frame just sat on the first bodywork (the broken one): Some little improvements have to be done on the 3D design before the final printing, but I'm now very happy of the way this turned out So, I'm now going to do this job and print several dashes in 103% at 20 microns layer, and let them dry the same way I described above. In the mean time, I'll glue the tub on the body and then cut out the doors ... Stay connected if you like

Thanks a lot for the kind words. Stay connected I'm pleased you love it ! Me too ? Thanks for your praise Yes I made them ! And if I can do it, everybody can, too ! Thanks for the huge praise ?

Thanks Modlbldr, huge compliment, much appreciated ?

It's a shame that the spoked wheels are so simplistic ! Excellent painting job , love this color ?

Outrageous ? really ? It's not an outrage to turn a pumpkin into a flamboyant coach ( Cinderella said ?) ?

I don't doubt it for a second

Afternoon, guys To complete the making of trunk, I had to fabricate the retaining straps for the spare wheel, and the fasteners for these straps Fabrication of the straps: I used: - 0.4 mm Nickel-Chrome wire for the buckles - 0,4 mm brass tube, flated on an end, to make the barb of the belt buckle - Paper-leather to make the straps First, I did the central ring where attached the 2 rear straps and the front fixing one Then, I made the belt buckle and its barb (functional ) I glued 3 straps around the centre ring I glued the belt buckle on the front strap And I fastened the belts to give an idea And, for attaching the 3 holding straps, I needed to install 3 movable buckles in the wheel housing, so I made them: - 0.4 mm Nickel-Chrome wire - A section of about 1 mm length of 1.0 x 1.0 mm styrene square rode, that I drilled 0,5 mm in its centre - Tweezers and a lot of patience - The square rod is trapped in the metal wire before it is shaped - And the buckle can spin around the plastic rod And the same for the 2 other buckles With the straps just pu to see out it comes out: It just remain to cut the straps at the right length when I attach them, at the very end of this build. Then, time came for serious - and risky - things: cutting out the driver's door and fabrication of its hinges and of all the parts that will connect the tub to the body at this level. So I had to find a solution that would allow this cutting in a safe way. And the only option I saw and chose, after thinking about it for several days and checking a thousand times that it was technically and chronologically possible, is not to follow the assembly instructions that ask you to assemble and complete the "bathtub", then to glue it on the chassis, and only then to put the body on top of it! No, you have to do the opposite: - place the bathtub in the body without gluing it, then install the whole thing on the chassis, which allows a perfect positioning of these elements in relation to each other - then glue the bathtub to the body with a few well placed glue dots - Let it set and harden - then take the body and bathtub out of the frame and finish gluing. - Once dry and solid, put the whole on the frame, cut the doors, make the hinges and install them, without gluing them permanently on the doors, make all the missing elements of the inner body, which connect the bathtub and the body - take the whole thing out of the frame - Paint the whole thing, with different masking operations for the body, and the interior - etc... That said and planned, several remarks: The BMW of Revell is a series 1 and the one of Elvis a series 2 I already listed some differences between the two series, but there are others ! 1/ the dashboard is very different. So I have to model and print a new one, and this has to be done BEFORE gluing the bathtub under the body, because necessarily, there will be drawing mistakes that will have to be rectified step by step, and many blank installation tests will have to be done. Of course, it would be much more difficult with my big fingers if the cabin was already fixed! 2/ the rear of the body at the cockpit and soft top housing level is very different, which will require a lot of surgery on the bathtub, in order to stick as close as possible to the real thing Let me show you the differences: Here is a 1 series: (Photos found on the Youtube channel of RMP-Styling.com and other websites) As you can see, there is no room under behind the seats. A partition wall is situated just there, and the car cover housing is placed behind a wide metallic and painted part of the body placed just behind the seats The cover of the car's cover is maintained on the body with 12 eyelet locks Hereunder now various photos of a 2 series: As you can see, there's a large space behind the seats, and the car cover mechanism is placed into it The cover of the car's cover is maintained on the body with only 9 eyelet locks So surgery began on the tub: This is the parts supplied by Tamiya (tub and bulkhead) Hereunder the first phase of the operation: I cut out the excess part of the tub top. And the "dressing" of the part of the bathtub started... The bottom: The left side: The unavoidable gaps between the different walls have been filled with Tamiya Light curing putty, which also strengthens the bonding, and I can assure you that despite the thinness of the rear edge (about 1 mm), it is now very rigid on the left side. Rear and left sides: 3 layers of putty have been applied and sanded. It remained some slight surface imperfections, more visible after I've sprayed a primer coat. To achieve a perfect surface state, I ordered a new spray can of thick primer filler. And achieved the job: Of course, it remained some little imperfections that my iPhone 13's camera highlights, but don't forget that all this part of the tub will be carpeted ! And then, before glueing the tub under the body, I'd first to 3D design and 3D print a new dashboard, and as I guess that several tries will be mandatory before getting a perfect thing, I'll have to test fit the 3D prints on the body to check if they fit correctly with it, the doors and the windscreen frame. This attempts will be easier ro realize if the tub isn't glued on the body. So let's go for some hours on Fusion 360 ? Stay connected if you like

Thank you very much for this huge comment ?