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NoobModeller

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Posts posted by NoobModeller

  1. Hi all, 

    So the 1966 Chevy Nova project has been put on hold till I can get to a shop to get more body paint (lesson learnt with the EK9 project, more on that in just a bit). So I decided to take the Fujimi EK9 kit for a quick build into a Spoon Civic look, it's not quite finished yet but made so many mistakes on the way too. 

    Problems and Bad stuff:

    - Only had one small can of yellow body paint and the body could have done with another 1-2 wet coat before I sealed it with clear

    - I then attempted to mask and paint the black accents on the window trims on the clear plastic and turns out using painters masking tape instead of something like Tamiya tape, I had runs and leaks so had to wash that off and not as clean windows

    - Just general small bits of paint blemishes on the body, you'll see

    Anyway, after all that I am still quite happy how it's turned out given what happened lol. 

    After the final coat of clear and polished using Novas 1 and 2

    20161012_211621.thumb.jpg.268d9778d45ab3

    20161012_212436.thumb.jpg.48130bf6f76964

    More on the interior bucket in the next post. 

     

  2. You might consider cutting the rod and mounting a piece to each wheel. Then use that to glue the rear wheels to the rear axle. Unless the axle housing hole is to large, then you could either bush the axle with hollow plastic tubing or drill the wheels for a larger diameter metal axel to match the housing.   

    The cutting and gluing sounds like the back wheels won't move. I might have to go down the larger rod path, I went to my local hardware store and you'd be surprised how hard it was to try and find 1mm thick rods ..who knew! I might have to Macgyver my way through this, thanks for the tips! Here's another picture for you all. 

    20160906_005313_(Large).thumb.jpg.50485c

  3. Some more progress for you guys, annoyingly though the 1mm metal rod provided to couple the back wheels together is too short which makes it impossible to add either the drag or stock tyre for the back. But any here some more photos :)

     

    20160905_232514.thumb.jpg.c3a0417b9b3a93

     

     

     

     

     

  4. So I screwed up (again) on the dashboard as I wanted to change colour scheme and left the plastic for a little too long trying to get paint off it and affected the hardness of the plastic, so anyhow ordered a replacement off eBay and ordered the gauges from Best Model Car Parts as well while I was it and they both arrived today. So yeah, will be busy in next couple of days 

    20160905_114630.thumb.jpg.7df0380de24a09

    Also decided to just do a bit of dry fitting to decide whether I wanted it lowered or not lol 

    20160902_231923.thumb.jpg.39c1473450eca2

    20160902_231951.thumb.jpg.698f00034bb2a7

  5. Looks ok, just in some areas, spray didn't quite get to, so I went over with a brush with Tamiya matt black acrylic and you can notice the different in layers of paint, I might leave it and try to weather it slightly with some dirt etc, see how it turns out. Any made some more progress; first time applying alot of these techniques, i.e. flocking, distributor wire, panel line using washers, all in good fun and a learning experience :)20160830_234654.thumb.jpg.d005e4369e4e1920160830_234711.thumb.jpg.49114b0d198ac2

    20160830_234616_001.thumb.jpg.6349a8f32a

     

    I've decided on a colour scheme, I am going to go metallic blue exterior and interior use the stock one seat piece for both front and back seats and go with a blue and grey upholstery. Taking my inspiration from here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/readers-ride-1966-chevrolet-nova/

  6. Thanks! Bit hard to source MAD stuff here in Australia, usually the postage makes it not worthwhile. I've now gone and done a rookie mistake, late night wasn't thinking and just wanted to quickly do something on the kit and ended up spray painting matt black on the under carriage without any primer. Would there be any adverse effects if I just prime it over the top and sand it down necessary and spray again?

     

  7. Wow thanks for the advice. That really helps a lot. Sorry guys haven't made much progress on this as I would have liked in the last couple of days (kids and work) lol. 

    I redid the distributor wires and managed to get them a little shorter, did a dry fit into the engine bay and chassis. Looks OK. Just waiting on a few supplies like matte black paint and flocking powder and I can continue lol. 

    More photos to come soon. 

  8. Thanks. So I didn't succeed with the distributor that came with the kit. Ended up using the metal distributor from Scale Productions. Because it was already prehold I only needed to drill them with the pin Vice and was able to feed the wires through. Think it turned out better this way. 20160827_010944.thumb.jpg.9ce3ae45f00acd20160827_010924.thumb.jpg.f44d4a6d7e0516

  9. So I attempted to use the existing distributor and used a pin vice to drill in to try and free up space for 8 separate pieces of wire, but was only able to get 4 in, perhaps once the glue dries, I might attempt to drill again and squeeze the other 4 in. So far only managed to get one side of the engine block done (kind of, didn't include boots). First time attempting a distro lol. I am a little unsure on how it sits though...

    20160826_005144.thumb.jpg.31f373b7eb89f7

    20160826_005156.thumb.jpg.0d271b15f4315f

  10. So I managed to get the carburetor on there. Next step is to attempt my first ever distributor setup. Planning to use the existing distributor from the kit and hand drill a hole on top to add the ignition wires in. Does anyone have any tips on doing it this way or any other better ways?

     

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