chuckinredneck

looks great I like the color and it is a good kit for building on Chuck J

the body looks great Chuck J

Just a quick update here. I still haven't had a lot of time and the time I have had has been spent finding or makeing parts. Top right of this picture is the kit blower scoop and it's junk so I found the one on the left in the parts box. Also from the parts box is a shaft for the fuel pump. Next on the right is a fuel pump I took off a model I already had built, because I couldn't find one in the parts box. I bought some latex rubber mold maker and made one from it useing epoxy(center). On the left is an oil filter that I will be mounting to the chassis and plumbing it up. Next is to run fuel lines from the pump to the distribution block at the back of the scoop. and mount the engine in the chassis. Chuck J

Thanks Bobby I worked on it tonight finished up the suspension. I searched through my parts box trying to find a fuel pump and couldn't find any so I took apart the one I put on the Bantam Roadster so I could try casting it. I went to the art store and bought some latex rubber and some 2 hour epoxy, I know it's not casting resin but I'm going to give it a try. Chuck J

My time for working on this build has been kind of limited and I ran into a snag when I did get to work on it. If you can see in the picture the idler pully for the blower belt is a bit messed up, so I made up a new one that I believe should work just fine. I had to use brass pins to make everything stronger because the kit uses a rubber band for the blower belt Next on the list I need to find a super coil or some kind of ignition box and a fuel pump. Now were did them parts boxes get put at LOL Chuck J

the Jawbreaker is done so now I'm starting my next project actually I'm finishing it, I had started this kit 10 years ago with the paint and BMF. the model got stuffed back into the box and stashed until I pulled it out and decided it was time to finish it. I built up the engine and chassis so I could mock it up for the pictures. Hope you like them. Still got a lot of BMF to go. Chuck J

Well I finially finished the quick build I was doing on the Jawbreaker. Here are a couple of pictures to show how it turned out.Hope you like it. Chuck J

Well I decided to go box stock. This was supposed to be a simple build but has become quite involve as almost evry mounting point had to be remove or adjusted even to the point were a square pin had to be trimed up to go into a round whole. Anyhow here are a couple of up todate pictures of this build just a little more work and it will be done. Chuck J

As things have settled down a bit and I needed a break from the 40 Ford Sedan, so I decided to do a simple build. My choice for this simple build is the Jawbreaker from AMT, a former MPC kit. I started building this model with the idea of just doing a little wiring and maybe some fuel lines. The body on this kit was warped and twisted pretty good so it took some heat and epoxy to get the 2 halves together, then it was puttied up and primed. I started building the chassis while waiting for putty and primer to dry. After the color coat of paint was done I layed down 2 coats of clear I brought the body back to the bench to wet sand it. I mocked the model up to see how it looked and took a picture of it in front of the box. After I downloaded the pictures on the computer I realized how close the Torch Red that I bought to paint the model was to the box art. Now I've decided I'm doing this as a box stock build with no extra detailing. The question I have has to do with contests. I haven't done any box stock builds for contest before and I know you have to have the instructions with the model. This kit has some optional parts, like there are 2 different types of headers but only one type is shown in the instructions the other set is shown on the box art. My question is do I build the model according to the instructions or do I use the other parts that are shown on the box art and argue my case at the contest that those are kit parts? Thanks Chuck J

After talking with a friend I took and changed the shifter around so that the skull could look out the windsheild and smile at all the cars going by. I also took and blackwashed it to bring out the detail

what can kill a build for me is burning through the paint. When I'm that close to finish and it happens it's done. Other than that my own Over complicating of a project and a project burnout. This is where I'm at on my 40 Ford Sedan I've been working on it for so long now I'm looking for something else. Good news is I now have a couple of shelves that I use for my In Progress models so they don't get lost in the shuffle of boxes. Then I can pull them out to work on every so often. Chuck

On the last post I messed up the two pictures that shows the differences in the ride. The first picture is actually the after picture. Sorry about that Chuck

I worked on my sedan's interior and thought I was going to tell you it was done, but after talking with a friend of mine I'm going to make a simple change. I'm going to make the shifter longer and turn the skull around so that it can be seen through the windshield. On the body I've done final polishing and put a coat of wax on it. The finish came out so good I'm almost affraid to do the BMF around the windsheild I've been trying to find something other than the kit suspension to use on this build but everything I've tried leaves it setting higher, which I don't want. At this point I'm going to work with the kit's part to make them better, I was able to get the ride to set a bit lower. More in the back than the front I've still have a good bit of work to do on the suspension I'm going to add shocks front and rear and put a tie rod on the front plus I'll be adding some brake detail Chuck

you've built that up into a sharp pony. NIce job on your Muctany Chuck

the skull shift knob came from the hot wheels car in the picture

Here are some pictures of the almost finished interior. Only problem is after all this work you cann't see much of it when the body and the interior are put together

great build, excelent detail, clean workmanship and let me say thank you for not entering the contest that I'm in LOL Chuck

nice job Walt glad to see I'm not the only one who abuses the AOL disks they keep sending me http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j206/chu.../Picture285.jpg Chuck

Update on the 40. Tha fan wouldn't fit with the radiator in place so I'm going to use an electric fan on the front side of the radiator I finished cutting off the molded on exhaust pipe still have to clean it up a bit more. Put a coat of primer just to get an idea of just what needs work Been working on the interior. The seats are from AMT's 57 Ford Fairlane the rear seat had to be narrowed and fitted to the interior bucket. Ive got it pretty close to how I want it so it's almost read for some paint. I've painted the dash the base color for the body and painted the details. There will be a tach mounted on the steering column slightly right of center. Still have to find a steering wheel and shifter that I want to use. Here is the moch up of the interior at this point Thanks for checking it out Chuck

Welcome Doug, if you don't learn something here you don't really want to learn. The day I don't learn something is a day I must have slept away. Chuck

Okay I just got told who some of the vendors who are registered to be at the nationals this year Modeltyme Designs/Detail Master - with products from Detail Master, The Model Car Garage, Model car Warehouse, Gibson Engines Satco, R & D Unique, S.E. Ltd. and more R N R Vacumn Craft - Resin Bodies Premire Hobby Products - model body putty, window tint shades And there will be people sell model kit, die cast vehicles, collectable Hot Wheels and more

now that I've finally stopped carveing up altenator brackets here is what I've got The first picture shows the bracket that I used as I was fitting it to hold the altenator . The second picture shows everything all painted and mounted, I'm not sure if I'm going to use this fan or not. Chuck

I found the can of paint the name is Plasti-Kote's Kameleon copper to green paint. When you use this paint don't wet sand it wait till you put a couple of coats of clear on it or it will ruin the effect. I found out the hard way. On the engine I've got the fuel lines run from the fuel pump to the carbs. I also cut the fan belt off the pully assembly, then I rounded up the pullys and will be useing masking tape to make a new belt

32 Ford Roadster from Revell this is a great kit wish I had bought more than one so I could do it a couple of different ways Chuck

The special paint is flip flop paint over a redish color in stead of black. I joke about it 'cuase the instructions on the can say it should only be painted over the black they make for it. here is apicture that shows off the paint a bit better The roof took a lot of work to get it right