Tommy124
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Posts posted by Tommy124
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49 minutes ago, ismaelg said:
My intention is to stay as close as possible to box stock on this build.
Well, we'll see... Wouldn't be surprised if we came to see some minor corrections in this WIP... such as a V8 placed in the front end...
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18 hours ago, Intmd8r said:
Thomas - Not sure about the products available in Germany, but my AK set was packaged with the Clear, Hardener, thinner, and two syringes.
Steve, I have to correct myself. The thinner is not mentioned on the box, but it is mentioned in the product description in their webshop: "Two-component ultra-gloss lacquer. Mix the lacquer and hardener in 3/1 ratio. Contains a 60ml bottle of thinner, 60ml lacquer and the hardener and two syringes." They do not mention ratio for using the thinner though... is it mentioned in the instructions somewhere on the box? Looking forward to learning about your experiences with this set.
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7 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
I dump the paint out of the cup if it's a gravity feed, and remove the jar if it's siphon feed, and then run some lacquer thinner through the brush.
It only takes a few seconds and it will assure a clean brush when you're ready to paint again.
If nothing else, I do this just to be sure that my paint gets a good shake again before the next coat.
Metallic particles will settle to the bottom in a matter of minutes.
After 15 to 30 minutes, the majority of those particles will be sitting in the bottom of your paint jar, or in the throat of the air brush.
Giving the paint a swirl as Peter stated may work with a siphon jar, but it will not get all of that metallic out of the throat in a gravity feed.
You can shoot the heavy metallics out before you begin again, but now your paint has lost a lot of the particles and will not be uniform with the previous coat.
Steve
I fully agree here. Regardless of the type of paint used, I would never let the color set inside the airbrush for such a period. I use a gravity-feed (Harder & Steenbeck Evolution) airbrush, so I empty the cup into the paint container. After that I fill in a small amount of the stuff that I found to be the most effective for cleaning the AB just aswell as stripping paint off a model. It's called Methoxypropanol (https://www.kremer-pigmente.com/de/methoxypropanol-pm-70920.html). I also found it useful to close the nozzle with a plastic cap (https://www.everythingairbrush.com/plastic-nozzle-cover.html) before spraying with a bit of of that stuff inside the cup. With the nozzle being closed, the pressure is reversed, so the cleaner goes back the other way and makes sure for a good (intermediate) cleaning inside the AB.
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5 hours ago, Intmd8r said:
I use cheap, white craft glue to hold my headlights and “glass” in place.
Just Apply a thin layer with the end of a toothpick. Dries clear.
I use either that glue on a stick or the "wax picker pen": https://www.ebay.de/itm/2-Stuck-Picker-Pen-Stift-Strass-Stein-Perlen-Applikator-Wachsstift-Nail-Art/272661436612?hash=item3f7be358c4:g:YJMAAOSwXoxafFZ0:rk:12:pf:0. This is very nice to handle.
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Nice build, Will!
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On 4.1.2019 at 2:07 AM, Bernard Kron said:
Well, we all know how totally out on the edge this project was. Following along was one of the highlights of the year on the MCM forums. For me it was an inspirational and educational exploration into just what can be accomplished with a plastic model car kit in 1/24th scale.Thanks for it all!
All the best for 2019!
Dann, completely agree to this! What a build, what a WIP, what a result! Looking forward to you cutting down to doing only 4 builds simultaneously, as that will mean more and quicker progress!
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20 hours ago, mitchy said:
It is probably wise to put it on a bit warm, not really hot though. I actually put it on for this test at ambient temperature (approx 15C, 54F) and it went down quite easily. I think installers use some gentle hot air for complex bodywork contours.
Wrapping it around the extremities like window returns probably requires a higher ambient temp, but I did not try it as I was afraid to pull the primer off whilst peeling off this test piece.
Thanks for the tip, I will definitely be checking out this stuff. Product description says it has "air channels". I assume that means the adhesive reverse side is somewhat engineered in such a way as not to let any "air bubbles" occur during application.
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I actually just got the sister kit (2in1, "Classic Cruiser") by trading with a fellow modeller. It's not so easy to find around here. Will be following your process!
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No, I haven't. It's a very nice box though... I once considered trying this out but honestly, I don't know why I should. I don't see any point to prefer this over Zero paints 2k clear which I mostly use on "modern car" models. Furthermore, I believe both products are nothing special or different really. They are 2k clearcoat lacquers as used in the automotive industry, while probably being modified for airbrush (small nozzle) use. Other than the ZP product, the AK stuff comes without any separate thinners which is something I don't like. As that means there is a fixed clearcoat - hardener ratio (3:1) but nothing can be done about the viscosity. I like to vary the amount of thinners in the process, so this is not good imho. The next thing is that the AK stuff is very expensive, given the small total quantity of only 80 ml. The ZP set comes with twice the amount (100 ml clearcoat + 60 ml hardener = 160 ml) PLUS 60 ml thinners which further increases the total amount of mixed varnish and, more importantly, the flexibility to adjust the ratio according to my needs. Both products cost about the same, a bit more that 20 EUR. So AK has the nicer packaging, but I'm pretty certain ZP is the better deal...
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STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL model and photos!
The kit has been on my wishlist for some time, it's time it got in my stash!
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Very nice model. And a very productive builder, 2 builds after 2 weeks... I must be doing something wrong?
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Great model, great pictures! Customs wheels look good on it!
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On 13.1.2019 at 2:23 AM, Roadrunnertwice said:
outside of the model-building world
There is no such place!
Your builds look fine!
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2 hours ago, Ich_Will said:
I don't think I've ever seen this livery. It's very nice! Well built.
Yes, both look great. The livery is for a German company producing heating appliances. I always liked it, already as a kid, because of that bunny!
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On 13.1.2019 at 12:50 AM, Snake45 said:
This might be one of the very rare cases where I might think Future/Pledge could be the best and least risky solution.
I agree here. I cannot tell if Future/ Pledge are exactly the same stuff like the Alclad Aqua Gloss (AAG) I have been using. But I have been told that they are at least very similar. Anyways, I have made good results with cloth-applying AAG directly onto the basecoat. Just a drop and then polish it in. At least it worked on matte basecoats (Zero Paints, Gravity Colors) to the purpose of creating partial glossy areas on which BMF is to be applied (in order to avoid making a full intermediate clear coat). And yes, that means I clearcoated the BMF later on which worked out just fine...
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On 11.1.2019 at 3:06 PM, mikemodeler said:
If I was running Revell, I would be studying this technology and try to incorporate it into a business plan soon.
That is summing up in short words what I meant! And yes, of course the technology is here already. But there doesn't seem to be enough pressure on the kit companies yet to deal with the subject pro-actively...
On 11.1.2019 at 9:44 PM, mikemodeler said:I have wasted more time in meetings listening to reasons why something can't be done when in fact most of the time it's because no one will take ownership of a project or process.
There once was a company meeting in which all the others agreed that ''it can't be done". The one guy who didn't join the meeting didn't know about that... - and accidentally just DID it...
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Great discussion going on here. I specifically followed the one about the possible outlook that our mutual hobby might be facing.
I'm surprised however it has not been brought up that we will probably be facing a technical development, maybe revolution even, that will dramatically change the way plastic parts can and will be produced in the not so far future. I'm talking about - of course - 3D-printing. Some of us already use that kind of technology for creating parts they do not get elsewhere. Those parts imho often miss the "final touch" presision-wise, but that will change, I'm sure.
Hardware, printing materials and CAD designing software are progressing towards perfection all the time. Not so hard to imagine that kind of technology could replace an expensive and energy-intensive molding process which requires molding tools that are very expensive - even on an industrial scale.
To my knowledge, companies like LEGO consider offering POD (print-on-demand) production for certain plastic parts in the future. And if THEY do, along with declining model kit sale figures, I'm sure there will be the need for the model kit industry to go down that road, too.
This doesn't necessarily have to be bad news to us, the builders. First off, real big quantities (if any) might still be produced the "old way", if that's cheaper. But unlike in molding production, in 3D-printing there are no tool costs and only low setup costs, which allows to go for small quantities. Product variations that required expensively (maybe irreversibly) modifying the molding tools before, can be done easily just by additionally designing the required parts. A huge field of specialized after-market part producers could develop and add a lot to the variety.
And then there is the vision that one day 3D-printing devices will be part of normal domestic life. Not only for modelling parts. Download and print your model kit parts yourselves at home one day? Don't believe it? You better...
It may not all be happening that way, but I guess most of it will. Sooner or later. I guess we might become the "vinyl guys" of modelling one day...
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Simply beautiful! Did you use Alclad on the bumpers?
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On 6.9.2009 at 8:06 PM, MrObsessive said:
By letting the liquid glue thoroughly dry and then re-sanding the area, you're now "erasing" the memory of what was molded there. Thus when you paint, since paint is not a hot a solvent as glue, the memory shouldn't come back.
Fully agree with you there Bill! And may I add that for filling panel lines you can use the same method, but depending on the depth of the line, it may be recommended to use styrene melted in glue. The way I did here with the sunroof panel lines on the Porsche.
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Lovely restoration! I like the BMF job you did on the lettering.
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Really great models and photos! You have a great gift of making them look REAL!
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8 hours ago, disconovaman said:
Another tip on the camaro... Making the custom wheels deep or 20 inch Rallys...
Both modifications look good but 20 inch Rallys if favorite for me...
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Looking great so far!
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My name is Tommy and I'm a collective addict. Coming here helps me, especially when I see that I'm NOT crazy owning ONLY around 400 kits.
Which equals around 65 years of work to do at my current building rate. Could be difficult, but why bother with facts of life while you've got a nice hobby... While I'm writing this, another parcel is being handed over to me. 4 new kits inside I believe... On a good day I can remember what I ordered. Wait... 2017 Camaro AMT Snap kit, AMT '68 El Camino Derby Kit, MPC '73 Mustang... what's the last again? Ah right, Monogram '70 Buick GSX. And some wheels, but wheels don't count, right? Collect on!
The kit has been on my wishlist for some time, it's time it got in my stash!
Your builds look fine!
AK Interactive Ultra Gloss Varnish
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
That's poor information from AK... Maybe some general instructions from ZP will help: https://www.hiroboy.com/Diamond_Finish__2_Pack_GLOSS_Clearcoat_System_2K_Urethane_220ml--product--10301.html
As regards the thinner's ratio, I suggest to start at a low level and then adjust. Changing the viscosity shouldn't affect the possible result, but the way the mix is going through the airbrush. Which nozzle size are you going to use?