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GeeBee

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Everything posted by GeeBee

  1. I'd give them a go, they get a lot of bad comments, not sure if it's just brand snobbery, but I've been using them for years, and once stirred and thinned correctly they airbrush just fine, I also use Revell and Testors, and to me, they all airbrush just the same, but Humbrol do have a huge range of colours to choose from.
  2. this is the only one I have seen, but no one seems to have any for sale http://www.rocketfin.com/resin_product.cfm?id=2482
  3. I used Humbrol # 103, cream, it was a matt finish, so I added a little clear to it to make it slightly satin, I used photos i have of the real thing, took at an American car show I went to a few years ago
  4. It's just some single stage acrylic lacquer I borrowed from my local bodyshop, good job the managers a friend of mine, what ever it is, it was touch dry in around 5 minutes
  5. I'm pretty much the same as you Bill, drives me crazy when things on a model are supplied or molded in that are just not correct, it's not top of my list, but if I ever come across a resin convertible body for the 300C, I'll grab it, as you say, just cutting off the roof just wouldn't be correct. Well I'm slowly carrying on with the build, but I've had to order a new set of photo etch scissors, I'm not sure who's been using them, looks like they've been used to trim a dinosaurs toe nails, so I've just ordered a new pair, as I have the photo etch sheet for this, I'll probably not use everything on the sheet, but I will be using the front grill, and the speaker grills for the rear shelf. With the roof lining painted and left to dry before I do the three chrome strips on it, I thought I would fix the front number plate th=o the bumper, but the front bumper has a slight bit of chrome missing on the edge, I wish I had seen this earlier, when I was painting the rear bumper in chrome, I tried the chrome pen, and it looked awful, tried a bit of bmf, and it still stuck out like a carrot in an omelette, so it's gone in the stripper and will be in K Colors chrome to match the rear bumper.
  6. there not the cheapest paints I've used, but there certainty the best, I used them for the Chrysler Im building at the moment, he's sure to have it listed
  7. it wouldn't, those instructions are for the Monte Carlo rally version, but the main parts are the same for all the Tamiya Mini kits, so far I've built 8 of them, although two were commissioned builds
  8. No you didn't, you've put the bottom of the steering column on the subframe mount, look at the instructions here, the bottom of the steering column os supposed to go between the brake and clutch pedal, a per the real thing
  9. Just a tip for you, you need to move the steering column more forward, it shouldn't be sticking up like that, if you don't move it, you won't be able to fit the body, as the steering wheel will be too far forward and will catch on the windshield,
  10. Interior built up and then fitted onto the chassis
  11. Finally got the wet sanding and polishing finished, it will get a coat of wax once all the bmf has been done, also got the headlamp buckets masked and painted in body colour, not the easiest masking I've ever had to do, but I'm pretty happy with the results
  12. Very nice build ....
  13. Thanks for the heads up, I've been after one of these, since I lost my built up version in a house move, I bought it from the Ertl outlet in Dyersville, after visiting the factory as I was writing an article for a magazine about Ertl, you wouldn't believe the hoops I had to jump through to be able to take photos in the factory. It cost me around $7.00, not bad when i was getting close on $2 to the pound, when I got it home, the bodyshell was bent like a banana, which i straightened, and it was a pig to build, but I've been after one ever since without paying silly money. Hopefully I'll make a slightly better job this time around
  14. before trying it out on a car body, get yourself some plastic spoons, when your happy with the finish on the spoon you can then move onto to painting the model.
  15. I would start with a 50:50 mix of thinners and paint, and depending on the airbrush and size of needle, you might have to go to something like 30% paint / 70% thinners, I buy most of my paint in 100 ml tins from Paints4u, after many years mixing paints, I do it by eye, and no longer measure out the paint and thinners ratio.
  16. This has got to be the best built up Jo-han model I've ever seen, superb work !
  17. Chrysler copper brown, by MCW
  18. Thinned properly, they airbrush just fine .....
  19. I've seen seasoned modellers do worse than this, very good for a first attempt
  20. Another Mopar added to the stash
  21. its the first time I've tried this technique, I hope I've got it looking somewhere near correct
  22. i think it's going to take quite a bit of bmf to do this one
  23. Started the wet sanding today, I didn't really have too much to do, as the paint finish is pretty good, so i decided to only sand out the dust nibs and polish the rest, i've removed all the dust nibs and so far polished out the roof panel,
  24. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/subscribe/ $45 a year for overseas subscriptions
  25. While giving my models in the display cabinet a clean, I thought it was about time I got some better shots of this one, I'm not sure where the interior mirror went to, it was there when I got it out of the display cabinet, hopefully it will turn up ...
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