Sandboarder
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Posts posted by Sandboarder
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On 1/21/2023 at 2:07 PM, peteski said:
I wonder if SMS and Molotow are the same paint or at least related?
SMS is made right here in Australia while Motolow is made in Germany.
It is good to see Australian products (SMS and DDA) have popped up on this forum after I’ve spent months logged off
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On 3/7/2023 at 8:10 AM, niteowl7710 said:
$47 before shipping is higher than anyone else's price for a new kit short of one of the crazy top-end Tamiya kits (Enzo, FXX-K, LFA, etc), Belkits (and now DModelkits) Rally offerings, and the MSRP on Salvinos JR. All of those things being brand new tool (at the time) highly detailed plastic kits. Not a - oh well let's run plastic through it and see what happens - recycling of a diecast tooling. We all know what the Revell "dual use" kits are, and I don't think anyone around here actually appreciated the results of those kits in terms of fit, assembly, and body shell properties.
I'm fully for the subject matter, give me cool Holdens & Ford Falcons, et al. But it's 2023, I expect 2023 or there abouts quality in something that costs that much. I'd happily pay $55-60 for one that fits the bill.
Oh wow!So I bought one at my local hobby shop for $75 AUD. Now keep in mind that the here my local hobby shop charge $80 for your AMT models kits and around $80-85 for Tamiya.
Maybe seeing as how crazy the last few years were and it is 2023, remember it is very expensive to export from Australia to the USA no different how Round 2/AMT charge us Australian’s such a high retail price for their products.
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On 2/10/2023 at 4:32 PM, Digger said:
Now Sandboarder you say silver under the primer, can I put a lite coat of primer first then silver then the colour?
Yeah of course you can. The idea is that the metallic flakes in the silver will block the bleed through. Any texture from the silver can be sealed and smoothed with a primer or surfacer.
There is no reason you can’t spray primer, silver, primer, colours and clear coats. On your projects
I personally only use Mr Hobby 1500 Black surfacer for everything I paint. Recently I painted a Bandai kit molded in red and pink with black primer/surfacer and then a light green paint, no bleeds.
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Spray a coat of silver under your primer or use black primer.
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This turned out awesome. Sounds like you really enjoyed the Bandai kit. Great to see your OOB build and then taking the time to disassemble and rebuild after paint.
Looking forward to your next Bandai build, what ever it is that you choose
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Wow!! Absolutely amazing paint job!!!
Providing you have not mentioned any mods and said the kit was a joy to build, it has really turn out impressive. Clean build with all the right details to make it pop and stand out. Nailed the Gasser stance.
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This build is amazing!!! Great take on a C211, I really enjoy seeing fresh ideas and interesting platforms.
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1 hour ago, Jim B said:
Actually, I have not. And I was kind of surprised the Tamiya recommended a Testors product.
That’s unusual. I try to stick to the same brands materials. Tamiya paint, thinner and remover etc.
Got a few options to try out now.
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On 11/14/2022 at 7:47 AM, Jim B said:
As much as i like Tamiya spray paint, I'm always a little apprehensive when I'm applying them because I know if I have a paint failure, I'll never get the paint off
Have you searched the Tamiya catalog? -
I haven’t used it but I bet it’s bright
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3 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:
Maybe the Amish were right all along?
I like your point -
12 hours ago, Dave G. said:
I use 1000 in the bottle, thin it and airbrush it and it's smooth. But I get the Mr "Primer" Surfacer 1000 in white, can't speak for Mr Surfacer 1000 in black. What might be of interest to you though Mike ( and more why I writing this), the stuff stinks enough to blow your head off. But doesn't stink for long as it dries quickly.
The Black is smoother then the white. I assume the Black pigments are finer but it has never given myself a bad result.
I use both 1500 black from rattle cans and through the airbrush with the same results.
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23 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
Well that definately is black. So the one with the rough finish is over the Mr. Surfacer?
It’s over 500, that the equivalent of 500 grit sanding. If you use Mr Surfacer get the 1500, it’ll cost the same and is super smooth when dry. -
3 hours ago, dragstk said:
@ Sandboarder - I have a Aoshima Liberty Walk kit and that is what started this idea. But Id rather not take the flairs out of it, so , at some point, build it as a Liberty Walk car.
Im just saying don’t be afraid to buy a Rocket Bunny 86 and pull the flairs out. You can still build a great car from the kit without the flairs.
I really should make an effect to finish these one day. RB kit suspension with a simple 18” Aoshima wheel swap. Zero modifications, OOB.
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Company’s like Hobby design make resin LB Walk fenders and body kits but they are about twice the cost of buying a Aoshima kit and separating the parts you want.
The Lambo has moulded on flairs while the Aoshima 86 is better suit. You can take the flairs out and still built a really nice Toyota 86 in RHD or LHD or FRS Scion
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The UK will already stop the sale of new gas powered cars in 2030 or something. All the brands like Dodge are just trying to get on board with the new technology’s before a banned like you UK stops their sales.
Can they sell me a reasonably priced EV that does 800km per charge? No. Until they travel 500 miles a tank for under $40,000 USD they aren’t practical and travelling 186 miles down Route 66 and then stopping for a long charge just ain’t going to happen.
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Mr Hobby do a good selection of these paints as well.
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Clear coated primer? You mean this colour??
I can get around most trends when they are built well and understand the trend/influence.
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Gloss clear coat
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I mainly use thinners for airbrushing but I only use Mr Hobby Mr Levelling thinner for any lacquer paints. It’s a bit slower drying which helps the paint level and dry smooth.
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Mr Hobby gun chrome is a pot of solvent based lacquer paint. As always airbrush for the best and most even results but of course you can brush it on.
Ensure it fully mixed as mine brushed on a little grainy. I only don’t a small test as I intended to airbrush it but I have not at this stage.
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3 hours ago, Dpate said:
Yes you’re right. But yeah I’m back at square one, because can’t find that yellow anywhere but scalefinises. I’m just gonna have to suck it up and drop $20 on it.
Looks like Zero Paints also do the yellow.
https://www.hiroboy.com/Toyota_2000GT_Bendix_Yellow_Paint_60ml--product--13125.html
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1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:
If you plan to go white I would not recommend pure white or arctic white.
Back in the lacquer days GM never did this because the reflow oven would not handle a pure white. These types of white colors only started in the early eighties as the GM plants were gradually converting to BC/CC technology.
GM's cleanest white of the era would be off-white or ivory by today's standards.
Appreciated guys but re-read @Dpate posts.
He is painting A Toyota and has now chosen Yellow.
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6 hours ago, Dpate said:
Solid. It's for the Aoshima toyota GT 2000
Dude I’m lost.You want to paint a 1967 Toyota with a 1959 Cadillac factory colour? You already own all of the suggested whites but would prefer to buy a rattle can with bad reviews and decant it.
In the end the Yellow is a much better choice for the Toyota but your back at square one after saying would don’t want to $20 for Scalefinishes paints.
im just thinking out a loud here.
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What did you get today? (Model Car Related Items)
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
These arrived today.
Now to find to factory colours as they were sold out when I ordered these.