Sixx

both are very good points,Jim, in fact in my research for an answer, that's exactly what I discovered so far. I think model companies should try to mold em near door lines and such, just a thought if you're listening Revell, AMT, Tamiya.......LOL

Hey everyone! I'm having a hard time removing mold lines. The way I'm dealing with them at this point is * I'm sanding them down with 220 grit then 320 then 500 then 800 then 1000 grit sand paper * then I'm shooting duplicolor filler primer * then two coats of tamiya primer If I'm not VERY careful at feathering out my sanding marks with the next level of sand paper, and if I leave scratches then it looks horrible when I shoot the paint particularly thinned down automotive metallics. they leave what looks like burn marks and then the mold lines turn out looking like trenches. Then the mold lines show up again also. It is difficult to maintain the body character lines and get rid of the mold lines at the same time. Am I using too heavy a grit of sand paper to start? Also, does the plastic make a difference, I'm having a problem with Lindbergs Chrysler Atlantic. First it's molded in a champgane metallic (yuck) then I'm wondering if it's the type of plastic. I shouldn't be seeing any mold lines after all that sanding and tamiya priming???? what gives?? They show up particularly with thinned down automotive, decanted tamiya sprayed through an airbrush and they are even worse with metallics. What are the tricks for getting rid of mold lines without sanding them and taking the risk of leaving sanding scratches and then have to scrap the bodies? thanks for your help

I think I'm going to stick with the Tamiya regardless of the cost. It ends up costing me more if I have to scrap a project, which has definetely happened. Then I'm out the cost of the kit and time let alone a bunch of frustration!

Hey guys! I need some help. I normally use Duplicolor filler primer then wet sand that down and then I shoot Tamiya fine white primer before paint. What is the difference between the fine white and grey primers. Does one fill better than the other? or does one lay down smoother than the other??? I'd really appreciate some feedback about their differences and proper applications! thanks all, six

I dig the Jegs too, the hood and scoop were my first attempt at resin casting, not bad if I say so myself. The blue one was modified to a Cuda, I dug that one too!! It went to Japan!! Slot car racing is huge there!!

I got my rear kicked!!! by Tom Nugester and my buddy John Collet!! They do some awesome work!! I did say something wrong, that contest was earlier this year! (such a dork!)

I did use that one, but if I remember, I used the engine from the Yenko Nova

I used Testors fabric tan spray, it has a slight texture to it

I did too, I just painted the bowtie blue!!

That came from R&D Unique, if I remember right

Jon Great tip! They do still make the wooden clothes pins and I never thought to use them! As for the pictures, my wife is responsible for the picture takin' and her little people as she calls em' I think she only agreed to take pictures for me if I'd let her do some shots with her people in em' I like em' too, but I agree, I prefer to see just the car more often, but they do add scale and she does a good job with em'.

Skip and Harry, thank you very much, that means alot to me!!

I built these for the slot car racers, sold on evil-bay These are just built bodies, to be used for slot car racing, thanks for looking, Sixx

Hey everyone, I built this last year, took it to Indy for my first real contest. It didn't place but oh well, it did get photoed for the mag.!!!! Not sure when it will be in there, but I was all geeked about it!! Thanks for looking, Sixx http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e79/designsbydercock/Derricks%20Cars/tt6.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e79/designsbydercock/Derricks%20Cars/tty6.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e79/designsbydercock/Derricks%20Cars/ty7.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e79/designsbydercock/Derricks%20Cars/P1010510.jpg By the way it's painted HOK chrome yellow (looks orange) with painted black stripes

Great advice Charlie, I did keep the warped chassis for use on another project. I really appreciate your help! I posted some photos of the completed car above! thanks again Derrick

Hey everyone! Just a quickie, I've used Tamiya grey and white primers for quite awhile, great stuff, been getting em at Hobby link.com but it seems they've stopped stocking them. I can get em from Mega Hobby but man, they want nine bucks a can!! There are no hobby shops close to me anymore, all closed up. Does anyone know where I can get em without paying out the nose?! Thanks in advance. Sixx

Thanks to everyone that replied. I found the problem...my chassis was warped ever so slightly ( bowed upwards in middle) that when I started attaching parts, they were WAY off! I didnt see the warp in raw plastic (dummy) only until things were glued. Thank God I had an other kit!! I'll try to get finished pics on here for ya to see.Thanks again everyone. Sixx

Hey whats up everyone?! I've been a member for awhile, this is my first real post. I was wondering if anybody has built Lindbergs 53 Ford lately? I don't have pics yet,but I'm havin Huge fit problems! The dash, firewall, inner fender wells, grill support, etc...it all fit just fine during test fittings, now nothing fits!!! This is not because of paint thickness!! Car is painted, parts glued on, go to attach body...boom! Body does not connect to front splash pan. It's a 1/4 of an inch to high! Does that mean I am??!! I dunno, I'll try to get pics soon. Thanks for listening to my pain. Later, Sixx

I got that one from ebay, total GARBAGE!!!! Like it was covered with sand!! Bowed at the cab end, to narrow at rear. I got stung on that one!!

Romell, not only an AWESOME build but an AWESOME paint job too!!!!! Great work man! Sixx