Plumcrazy Preston

The Paasche 1-oz lids I have measure 1 1/4" inner diameter with my ruler. I still say their website is poorly written for customers to easily follow. I'm going to try to talk Paasche in to making this misunderstanding up to me anyway by eating some if not all the costs. Also, the gaskets have to be impervious to paints, thinners and solvents. The Paasche ones in the website picture look like cork and not rubber or plastic. The 1 oz. jars I ordered from Paasche came, in fact, with siphon lids with cork gaskets included. That the siphon lids actually had gaskets already included is another reason a rational person should also expect gaskets with plain solid lids.

I found those stupid gaskets at the Paasche site finally. Chuck emailed me back with the part number. I could not find those stupid things navigating the site by myself. Why in the devil don't they just list the gaskets on the same page as the lids? They should already know most people are going to need something to seal the lids. Whoever in this world would want to order a lid without sealing provisions anyway? Their website is not very consumer-oriented. 5-G | Making Quality Spray Paint Equipment in the US Since 1904 (paascheairbrush.com) I think Paasche should at least eat the shipping costs if I were to order these gaskets, what do you think? I'm calling Paasche out on this one.

Now I have to pay more shipping costs for the stupid gaskets. Do I have to ask online lid sellers from now on if gaskets are included before making the purchase? Shame on Paasche for not presenting things in clear plain English.

Well, the Paasche website is not very intuitive. I think they should have just printed "gasket not included" or "gasket sold separately". Most rational people would have the expectation that a jar lid comes with provisions for sealing it. If a transistor radio or a flashlight does not come with batteries, should it be listed as "L/batteries"? I interpreted the L to mean LARGE and not LESS.

there was not one gasket included! How cheap can they get!! You mean even the gaskets to seal the paint in the jars are sold separate? H-191 | Making Quality Spray Paint Equipment in the US Since 1904 (paascheairbrush.com)

One thing a good model builder needs as a tool is plenty of light to work. I don't fancy dragging a plug-in electric light out into the tent, so I need a good, bright hands-free flashlight that can be worn with a respirator. Any suggestions?

I have placed small screws and hex nuts inside glass Testors enamel bottles (0.25 oz) as an agitator and they have never harmed the glass. I just stuck a hex nut inside a new empty Paasche bottle with the siphon tube in it. No sign of glass breakage or cracks when the devil is shaken out of it. Not a scratch. The genuine glass jars are rather expensive. The metal "agitator" doesn't appear to obstruct the siphon tube either.

PS - I just ordered solid lids from Paasche directly for 1 oz. jars. $10 and change for 6 with gaskets including shipping. Is the ball bearing in the jar a bad idea?

That nearly $30 set of six Paasche jars did not even include solid lids. The notion of shaking paint in airbrush jars to mix paints is derived from this Andy X video. I'm trying to keep costs, space and things to clean up to a minimum. I'm looking for efficiency in painting projects. I thought about a small square of shipping tape to seal vents for storage. I thought there might be special plugs for those on the market. I'm also thinking about putting a ball bearing in a spray jar as an mixing agitator spray-bomb style. It's nice to be able to use just one container to store, mix and spray paint. Less mess, less stuff to soil up. KISS = keep it simple stupid

What do I do about shaking, mixing and storing paint since Paasche has vent holes on their siphon lids? I need a paint/air-tight solution for paint mixing, storage and shaking. I don't want mess up more equipment with paint than I have to. The less stuff to clean up after painting sessions, the better. Paint will spill out those vent holes if the jars are turned over or shaken. The paint/thinner mixture won't be preserved without an airtight seal. I bought the following jars and siphon spout caps but now I need to do something about the vent holes. Amazon.com: Paasche Airbrush Assembly 1oz Glass Airbrush Paint Bottle, 1 oz, Clear : Arts, Crafts & Sewing Amazon.com: 30 Pieces Airbrush Bottles Caps Airbrush Jar Caps Pour Covers Siphon Adapter Liquor Spout Covers for Airbrush Bottle Jar Caps, Black : Arts, Crafts & Sewing I just received my shiny new Paasche H airbrush it and some other airbrushing accessories. I'm now studying the included literature to get to know my new Paasche, its parts and to get to know airbrushing. I want to get to know this precision painting instrument like an airline pilot knows his jetliner before I ruin one more expensive model kit. I also received my second AMT Kenworth W-925 tractor kit to get needed replacement parts from and my Testors grape enamels, Dullcote and Clearcote lacquers. I have a collection of some other Testors enamels already. I still need to go to Lowe's to buy lacquer thinner. Amazon.com: Paasche Airbrush Kit with Anodized Aluminum Handle : Arts, Crafts & Sewing Amazon.com: Paasche Airbrush Paasche AC-7 Airbrush Cleaning Kit : Arts, Crafts & Sewing WYNNsky Air Coupler and Plug Kit, Quick Connect Air Fittings, 12 Piece 1/4" Industrial Solid Brass Quick Connect Set - - Amazon.com

It would be nice if kit manufacturer's would just make doors, hoods, trunk lids and gas cap doors separate from bodies and doors that open to boot.

Why are you car folks so obsessed over panel lines anyway?

My kit shows wipers on the box picture but none are included in the kit and there's nothing noted on the instructions about wipers to boot.

But the TIPS (the PDF they attached to me email) are only about applying decals. There is nothing in the email body about mixing with thinner or whether a mist should be sprayed over decals. I presume the label on the back of the bottle will have all the dope on that.

Yes, only about decal application but nothing about clear-coating over them. I only have simple decals to lay on relatively-flat surfaces anyway. I will use the instructions as provided by my decal printer, www.highballgraphics.com, to lay the decals. Yes, a couple mist coats before laying clear heavy over the model. Back in 1992 I tried to clear-coat a model F-15 with a spray bomb from the hardware store and the decals just curled up and floated right off the model plane. I was dumping that stuff on heavy. That model was trash. I did also build a model R/C sailboat that same year with flat tan for the hull out of a spray bomb and that finish actually turned out pretty neat. I never have much trouble with flat paints out of an aerosol can, only gloss colors can give me nightmares.

I ordered Glosscote LACQUER in a bottle.

I just got a reply from Rust-Oleum. My message to them: Hello:I have a few questions regarding Testors clear coat products for plastic kitted models. I plan to airbrush my plastic kit static models with Testors enamel (in 0.25 oz. bottles) mixed with an equal part of lacquer thinner according to Andy-X's "modified Donn Yost" method. I plan to use a Paasche H airbrush with 35 psi and a No. 3 needle.My models will have water slide decals applied to them. I will need a way to seal in the decals on some models with a gloss final finish and other models with a flat final finish. Which Testors clear coat products work best for this purpose in airbrushing? Does Testors Dullcote and Glosscote need to be mixed with anything to make ready for the airbrush? Should decals be misted a couple times before heavy wet clear coats are applied? Are complete airbrushing instructions printed on the bottles? Please advise. Thank you. Their repsonse today to me: Hello David, Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support. We appreciate your interest in our products. Please see the attached tips for application of decals. Application of Glosscote is acceptable for both applications. For the application which you desire a lower sheen / matte finish, the Dullcote may be applied over the top. If you have any additional questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact us. Sincerely, Jenn I ordered both Testors Glosscote and Dullcote in bottles from amazon. These products get mostly 5 stars there. One reviewer says he uses 25% thinner or lacquer thinner while another customer likes 1:1 mix of the clear coat with thinner for airbrushing. Maybe "thin to win" on the clear coat over waterslides?? A couple of thin mist coats to protect decals. Many online sources stress a couple mist coats for decals. I believe it is 5-10 minutes between mist coats. I believe one can go heavy on clear but only after the decals get the few mist treatments. I have some spare clean model parts and some spare decals to practice with. See how it goes before touching the actual parts slated to go into the model's contruction.

I beg your pardon? Robdebie already suggested to me Andy X/Donn Yost on an earlier thread of mine. He is in fact a member here. I just ordered a Paasche H online and some other supplies based on HIS suggestion.

Oh, those are paid YouTube videos. Ouch!! I have to pay money to listen to Donn Yost lecture? Andy X doesn't charge a penny and I hit the subscribe button.

Still plenty of purple at amazon.com. I better hurry and order some up before they are all gone for good.

Andy X doesn't even use primer in his modified Donn Yost technique. The Testors enamel and the lacquer thinner in the mix should chemically bite into model kit plastic quite readily. I would still lightly scuff the bare plastic with fine 5000-grit sandpaper before turning the paint gun on it.

I'm good at reading and following instructions and I gather The Most Hallowed Paasche H will come with a good manual.

I have my heart set on a new airbrush. of course, I would try to buy stuff factory-packaged for airbrush use. The Testors clear in bottles I have in mind are lacquer products. Zeropaints has lacquer clears that are "airbrush ready" with thinner already built in. These are lacquer products too. These should all be decal-safe when mist coats are properly applied to decals to protect them from wet coats to follow. I have a bunch of unpainted spare parts that are disposable from one of my kits that is already botched to experiment with before committing any new paint products to my good parts I actually want to construct a good model with. I can use some of my spare clean parts as a test bed for both my painting skills to hone and my painting products. One might even buy cheap model at a five-and-dime store as a trial-and-error proving ground to develop painting experience. Maybe buying a plastic sign and practicing with it might be actually good for airbrush skills honing. Can I even practice on plastic picnic spoons? I still believe even a greenhorn is more likely to get much better results from a single-action time-honored proven Paasche H than any rattle can in the world. I'm willing to bet some money and gamble on Paasche. I have a bunch of spare decals to practice with too.

Does Testors Glosscoat and Dullcoat (mixed with any amount of some type of thinner) draw away from those panel line seams unlike 2K?

How do auto painters of real cars deal with the panel line issue? Here is a panel line wash video: