TheCamaroKid

I wonder if I just got a bad mold of a model. I only did just the body and it was the single most frustrating one I have done. I did an MPC IROC Z and it was straight forward. Much better fitment too for both the head lights and taillights.

I know it was a limited release in 2018. I don't know if it's every kit but mine seems to be the kit from hell. It was an unopened kit from 2018 that I brought recently. I'm just building the body to use as a slot car drag car and it's been nothing but problems. For a Revell-Monogram kit it's surprising. It has the quality of an MPC. A lot of the pieces are just two big. And not sand them down bit but actually cut too big including the rear tail lights and the rear hatch glass. The hood was too small. I know most people don't glue their hoods and have them open, so you can see the engine but if you wanted a closed hood, you can't. I had to putty the front of my hood for it to fit. The waterslide decals were uneven and too big. Each side has the large water slide decals that say Frank Iaconio that basically acts as a wrap. I've done tons of NASCARs before, so I am used to large wrap style decals but these were just too long and did not fit evenly on either side. Lastly, the windshield glass. You are suppose to glue it from the front like a NASCAR but there really isn't a place for it to sit. It's hard to use clamps due to the shape of the third gen Camaro. I have an MPC Camaro IROC Z and it has plenty of space inside the frame for the windshield to sit so you can apply glue, press and tape. But the Iaconio pro stock? No it just kept slipping and slipping. I never had this much frustration with a model car before. I love the car and the look of it. I can't wait to see it on the drag strip but man is it Revell P-61 Black Widow levels of frustrating. Has anyone else done this build? Did anyone else have similar issues or did I just get a bad model.

I've done 3 Hardbody NASCARS so far. Two I did all Tamiya (primer, base coat and clear over the decals) and one I did with Testors Extreme Wet Look Lacquer. The Tamiya cars both seemed to hold however, both cars got wrecked in crashes. One pretty much exploded into a dozen pieces... but the decals held under the clearcoat. I tried Testors. The car looked great but as soon as I removed my first lane sticker from the hood, most of the decal went with it... Then from hitting the walls the decals fell off. Almost like it had no clear coat. Is Tamiya the best? Or perhaps I should try Krylon or Duplicolor?

Cleared it today. I did Tamiya Pearl Clear over the paint and decals. All good. Not perfect, not a show winner but good enough for a slot car drag car that will get covered in finish line glue.

Its all tamiya rattle can lacquer. Ive done quite a few NASCARS(though all gloss) nad had no problem with clear over decals.

I will try it tonight

Ok, so its fine to apply the decals on pearl paint?

I have a 66 GTO model kit that I have painted in pearl white. Can I apply the waterslide decals to the paint or should I apply a gloss coat first, then waterslide then clear with the pearl clear?

I've done quite a few NASCAR hardbodies with Tamiya Lacquer and Mr. Gloss lacquer. No issues. I just go really really light mist costs for the first 2, regular mist for the 3 and 4th and 5th and sometimes 6th wet.

Thanks, I'm buying this!

No, it was only in the water for a few seconds.

I'm building a Frank Iaconio Camaro Pro Stock as a slot car drag car. I did the waterslide decals recently and one decal keeps giving me a hard time. The corner of it keeps peeling off. I applied the decal using warm water, Micro Set and micro sol. None of the other dozens of decals on the car gave me a problem. Right from the start this one did not want to adhere for what ever reason or another. Eventually the rest of it did and this corner won't stay. This is the 2018 kit. I read a much other thread that someone recommended using pledge to help flatten decals. Could that work here? Also if I do put pledge over my decals and car body, after it dries/cures, can I spray it with Tamiya lacquer? Also is the pledge revive made under a different name now?

I ask because I love racing hardbody NASCARs. It's my favorite class. However, near me while all of the slot car tracks have an oval, 90% of the Harbody NASCAR races are always on the road courses. I've been doing it for a good 3 to 4 months now and almost every race is a road race. Seems most of the long term racers prefer the road courses and that's what the businesses cater too (I can't blame them, gotta keep your customers happy). Maybe it's because I'm young and new at this but I much prefer the oval. I still race anyway and have fun but I'm surprised that even NASCAR fans prefer driving the road course. What do you guys prefer?

For stock cars, I use shoe goo but less parts on those compared to drag cars. Plus they are getting banged around.

Update, I just ended up using Revell Model Cement. I was careful not to let it run and ruin the paint job. It cured and held. I used shoe goo for the front wheels.

Good News everyone. I tried the PlastX. I got 90% of the glue and streaks off. The roof looks really good. It did leave a slight polish cloud. I will likely try again later to really buff it out.

Awesome, I'll pick up a bottle of PlastX on my lunch break and give it a try. Fingers crossed.

I order a bottle for features builds. I love their setting solutions for water slide decals.

Ok. What's the best process? Wet sand with a really fine grit sand paper, then rub in the compound?

Would just rubbing Meguir's PlastX on the car with a cloth fix this? I can pick up some tomorrow.

I put it away for now. I might buy a second IROC Model kit and try the above guy's spray paint technique. Come back to this project later. Maybe strip it down and paint it all black.

I tried both. Sadly no improvement.

It's the Tamiya Clear Parts Glue. What type of polshing compound should I use? Would the Tamiya Finish work?

Last week I finished a 1969 Camaro SS body. I cleared with Tamiya lacquer. I let the paint set for a week. Today, I went to do the windshields and bumpers. I saw a video online of a guy gluing windshields and bumpers, he used a damp paper towel to wipe any excess. I did the same but I got water streaks on the rear quarter panel. I tried wetting the roof of the car with water and wiping it with a microfiber cloth and also got water streaks. Is there any fix for this? Or did water just ruin a perfect paint job...

It's been almost 36 hours and it still looks like that. I guess it's still drying?