TheCamaroKid

I'm about to assemble my first slot car drag car. I've done two NASCAR's so far and they are straight foward. The only thing needed to glue after paint is the Windshield. But what about a hard boy drag car? I have a 1969 Camaro SS. I glued the hood before painting. Now I have both the front and rear metal bumpers. I know people in the display world often use the Clear Parts Cement since it dries clear and won't eat into the paint if it rains. Could I still use that? Will it be strong even to withstand repeated passes on the 1/24 scale quarter mile? Or should I use the Revell model cement that welds the parts together? I know this car will be reset but I still want it to look somewhat presentable.

I recently built a 1991 Lumina as a Dale Earnhardt to use as a hard boy slot car. I used Testors Clear Parts Cement a little over a day ago to attach the windshields. In real life as well as on the bottle, it says it dries clear. While parts of the Testors clear parts cement did dry clear a large portion dried blue! It was yellow when I applied after an hour a large portion dried clear but that portion dried blue. A little over 24 hours later, it's still the same. Does it sometimes just take a few days to turn completely clear or could color weather have effected it or perhaps I just got a bad batch?

I was hand painting the louvers of my Camaro IROC Z model Kit. My Camaro IROC Z is white (matching my real car), and I wanted the louvers black. I covered everything in Tamiya masking tape. I had painted the louvers with lacquer. They came out decent. What disappointed me most was that random black dot on the back of the hood. I'm not even sure how that got all the way over there. Minor runs near the louvers don't bother me, but that's like that Seinfeld episode (the red dot sweater)! Is there a fix? I'm building this is as a slot car drag car. I'm not sure if I want to strip it down, since the rest of the paint looks great!

I think that does help and that is how I will likely do my paint tomorrow. I'll probably just do 4 mist coats to get full coverage of the car.

I just did a primer coat on a Frank Iaconio pro stock Camaro. I did 4 light mist coats. No runs but the primer doesn't feel smooth. It's not rough either. I'm going to sand it with fine grit sandpaper later and shoot the yellow coats (also Tamiya) tomorrow or Friday. The car is covered and no runs, so I am happy about that.

I'm spraying outside in a painter's tent, in Florida. Humidity has been low the last few days but I do have a dehumidifer for the tent. Usually it takes 70% humidity down to below 50%.

Ill have to try duplicolor then.

Whats the best way to do clear coat then with Tamiya spray?

That was my theory too, that It was the wet coat causing problems. Is it better just to build up complete coverage with light coats? Then do the same with clear, then polish clear to get rid of any orange peel?

Alright, sounds good. I'm probably going to finish Dale tonight or tomorrow night.

I know just about every other thread as well as video on YouTube says Tamiya Lacquer Spray cans won't cause runs but I can't seem to prevent them. I soak the cans in a bowl of warm water, I shake well and frequently, I usually do 2 to 3 lite mist coats about a foot away. Then I do a heavy wet coat close up and almost every one of my models save for 2 has gotten at least on small section of runs (usually on the sides, usually near the wheel wells) or bubbles (usually around the wheel wells or the windshield. I also use Tamiya Primer. And often the Tamiya Primer gets some runs or bubbles, even when applied in mist coats. I can't seem to prevent them no matter what.

I'm wondering if simply using a smaller box rather than a large paint tent would be better. I think the paint tent (despite being small, is still about 3 feet tall and just leaves too much room for everything to get in.

I might have to try the bathroom idea. Sometimes I just can't see to win with the weather. If it's not windy, then with out fail a bug files into the paint or the windy is 2 mph and it only blows when I paint.

I'm shooting nothing but Tamiya Lacquer, yet I still can't prevent dirt, dust or grass shavings from getting in the paint.

I've been trying to paint near the fence using a painter's tent but still not look. Sandly no garage option.

I try that using one of those Tamiya paint stands and sometimes bugs and dust still end up in the paint. Where do you put your models to dry?

I guess so. Because I cannot win. Today, I had 3 bugs land in my paint. What are the odds? Almost everday, something seems to blow into it. What set up do you use?

I live in a typical Florida super division, that has that crappy saint augustine grass. On a day like today, even when the wind is less than 5 mph, when I try to paint, the wind always choose to blow at that time and dust and grass end up in the paint. Or a bug (or 3) lands in it! I have a painters taint, I'm sure it's better than not using one but it still doesn't seem to help much.

PS as you can see on the above photo, the Micro Set/Micro Sol kind of leaves stains when it runs. Is there a fix for that? Look right above the Goodwrench. Will clearing it just fix that?

A look at the driver's side.

I'm having trouble getting the two stripe decals to stay on the front bumper. 90% of the decals I am using are new Slixx decals, however these two are from the original kit. I used clearcoat on the original decal sheet and used Micro Set on the model and Micro Sol over the decals. However, these two decals keep peeling no matter what I do! Any fix? This is being built as a slot car. So I will clear coat them. I'm just hoping they stay long enough for me to clear coat!

So for the overlapping decals, should I just let them sit for 24 hours and then do them? Like on your Coors mountain decals on the side skirts, did you let those sit for a while before you put the sponsor decals of them?

I'm shooting a 71 Cuda, to be a slot car drag car. However, I did 3 coats of Tamiya Lacquer and before I shot the 4th, noticed some dust particles in the paint. Sure enough, I let it dry, they are embedded. Before I move further, what is the best fix? The particals are only on my roof/top of the car. The sides look really good. I'm guessing just sanding the body down until the dust comes out, smooth out the sand and reshoot? What grit should I sand with?

I'm doing a 1999 Dale Earnhardt Bristol Night car (the car he rattled Labonte's cage with). I have 90% of the decals done. The numbers, the Goodwrench, the hood, the rear bumper, the silver and orange (yes it's orange not red) stripes. The only things not done are the small sponsor decals, the 3 for the headlights and the RCR decal for the headlights. Since these decals overlap other decals. Should I put on a light clear coat of what I already have then let it sit and then do these decals? Or just let these cure for a while and then overlap the new decals?

I just ordered two. A larger one for the garage with a 35 oz tank and a small portable one that I can place in my paint tent (my paint tent is tiny). I hope they get the job done. I'll keep the one in the tank and it's a short walk to the garage and I will store the models near the garage.