FenderMender

BEFORE:::: It's possible to write a long-winded account of this "model", but the real short version is that this Monster Jam's vehicle body was "cast" from a 1/24 scale Jada 2006 Dodge Charger R/T (91953) using only tissue paper, white and yellow carpenter's glue, water-based wood filler and water putty, plus gobs of patience, experimenting and learning. Having learned from some but not all of the mistakes encountered in my first similar "casting of a 1/25 scale plastic AMT/Ertl Classic 1951 Chevy Fleetline kit (38274) , I followed up with this second "casting" from a defunct radio-controlled 1/24 scale Jada 2006 Dodge Charger R/T (91953) . The Dodge body shape was less complicated and proved to be somewhat "easier" to fabricate, even though it had its own peculiar problems that needed to be solved, in particular the window cut-outs. The finished Dodge "Handyman" has antique decals over fifty years old and a few mylar stickers. The front windshield was removed, but all others had to remain solid for structural reasons, so paper was treated with sealer, color and paint to simulate cut-out window openings. The gloss red is called Banner Red. My rationale for the unorthodox "building" of four Monster Jam models: My main thought in doing this project was twofold. First, to experiment with the idea of possibly using an existing model, either plastic or diecast, as a suitable mold for making an inexpensive but fairly accurate copy utilizing paper or other cheap and disposable media that would conform to the shapes of said model. I wanted to be able to use household products on-hand without going into an involved and expensive affair requiring unfamiliar materials, products and procedures. These two projects presented challenges which I welcomed as something fun to do, too, and if it were to be successful and perfected, could become a relatively "easy" source of my favorite body styles of cars and trucks to be duplicated and customized down the road. Second, I have four bodiless Monster Jam chassis that were bought for a dollar a piece and I have grown tired of looking at, as they were incomplete. I decided on doing these projects without damaging, ruining or utilizing a perfectly fine 2006 Dodge Charger R/T model or a pristine, un-built, still in the box 1951 Chevy Fleetline (which will be made as a stock or mild custom street car). My reasoning was to create a "win-win" situation regarding the mold models themselves. As a result, the outcomes of the two projects "saved" the two good mold models; if the projects had failed, I would not have lost the two good mold models either, and the material costs of construction would have been insignificant just being mere paper and glue, etc.! N.B. A third edition Monster Jam vehicle is being considered although I've not determined a body style yet. One thing for sure, the processes involved in making the third edition will incorporate valuable experiences and ideas that were garnered from the making of these first two. Thanks for looking.... From this:::: To this:::: To this:::: AFTER::: To finally this, the Dodge "Handyman" Monster Jam::::

BEFORE:::: It's possible to write a long-winded account of this "model", but the real short version is that this Monster Jam's vehicle body was "cast" from a 1/25 scale plastic AMT/Ertl Classic 1951 Chevy Fleetline kit (38274) using only tissue paper, white and yellow carpenter's glue, water-based wood filler and water putty, plus gobs of patience, experimenting and learning. Needless to say that it lacks both the strength and smoothness of metal and plastic. And it is rather difficult to tool. Learning for all the mistakes encountered, I followed up with a second "casting" from a 1/24 scale Jada 2006 Dodge Charger R/T (91953). The Dodge body shape was less complicated and proved to be "easier" to fabricate. Since I have four complete Monster Jam underbodies with wheels and tires that lack body shells, this '51 Chevy was my first attempt to fabricate a body shell for one of them. Thanks for looking... AFTER::::::

BEFORE:::: It's possible to write a long-winded account of this "model", but the real short version is that this Monster Jam's vehicle body was "cast" from a 1/24 scale Jada 2006 Dodge Charger R/T (91953) using only tissue paper, white and yellow carpenter's glue, water-based wood filler and water putty, plus gobs of patience, experimenting and learning. Having learned from some but not all of the mistakes encountered in my first similar "casting of a 1/25 scale plastic AMT/Ertl Classic 1951 Chevy Fleetline kit (38274) , I followed up with this second "casting" from a defunct radio-controlled 1/24 scale Jada 2006 Dodge Charger R/T (91953) . The Dodge body shape was less complicated and proved to be somewhat "easier" to fabricate, even though it had its own peculiar problems that needed to be solved, in particular the window cut-outs. The finished Dodge "Handyman" has antique decals over fifty years old and a few mylar stickers. The front windshield was removed, but all others had to remain solid for structural reasons, so paper was treated with sealer, color and paint to simulate cut-out window openings. The gloss red is called Banner Red. My rationale for the unorthodox "building" of four Monster Jam models: My main thought in doing this project was twofold. First, to experiment with the idea of possibly using an existing model, either plastic or diecast, as a suitable mold for making an inexpensive but fairly accurate copy utilizing paper or other cheap and disposable media that would conform to the shapes of said model. I wanted to be able to use household products on-hand without going into an involved and expensive affair requiring unfamiliar materials, products and procedures. These two projects presented challenges which I welcomed as something fun to do, too, and if it were to be successful and perfected, could become a relatively "easy" source of my favorite body styles of cars and trucks to be duplicated and customized down the road. Second, I have four bodiless Monster Jam chassis that were bought for a dollar a piece and I have grown tired of looking at, as they were incomplete. I decided on doing these projects without damaging, ruining or utilizing a perfectly fine 2006 Dodge Charger R/T model or a pristine, un-built, still in the box 1951 Chevy Fleetline (which will be made as a stock or mild custom street car). My reasoning was to create a "win-win" situation regarding the mold models themselves. As a result, the outcomes of the two projects "saved" the two good mold models; if the projects had failed, I would not have lost the two good mold models either, and the material costs of construction would have been insignificant just being mere paper and glue, etc.! N.B. A third edition Monster Jam vehicle is being considered although I've not determined a body style yet. One thing for sure, the processes involved in making the third edition will incorporate valuable experiences and ideas that were garnered from the making of these first two. Thanks for looking.... From this:::: To this:::: To this:::: To finally this, the Dodge "Handyman Monster Jam::::

Thanks, Rob, for your commendation. My main thought in doing this project was twofold. First, to experiment with the idea of possibly using an existing model, either plastic or diecast, as a suitable mold for making an inexpensive but fairly accurate copy utilizing paper or other media that would conform to the shapes of said model. I wanted to be able to use household products on-hand without going into an involved and expensive affair requiring unfamiliar materials, products and procedures. This project presented a challenge which I welcomed as something fun to do, too, and if it were to be successful, could become a relatively "easy" source of my favorite body styles of cars and trucks to be duplicated and customized down the road. Second, as mentioned in the post, there are four bodiless Monster Jam chassis that I grew tired of looking at as they were. I decided on doing this project without damaging, ruining or utilizing a perfectly fine 2006 Dodge Charger R/T model or a pristine, un-built, still in the box 1951 Chevy Fleetline (which will be made as a stock or mild custom street car). My reasoning was to create a "win-win" situation regarding the mold models themselves. As a result, the outcome of the project "saved" the two good mold models; if the project had failed, I would not have lost the two good mold models either. N.B. So I will finish up the 2006 Dodge Charger R/T soon and start working on a third edition Monster Jam vehicle , although I've not determined a body style yet. One thing for sure, the processes involved in making the third edition will incorporate valuable experiences and ideas that were garnered from the making of the first two.

BEFORE:::: It's possible to write a long-winded account of this "model", but the real short version is that this Monster Jam's vehicle body was "cast" from a 1/25 scale plastic AMT/Ertl Classic 1951 Chevy Fleetline kit (38274) using only tissue paper, white and yellow carpenter's glue, water-based wood filler and water putty, plus gobs of patience, experimenting and learning. Needless to say that it lacks both the strength and smoothness of metal and plastic. And it is rather difficult to tool. Learning for all the mistakes encountered, I followed up with a second "casting" from a 1/24 scale Jada 2006 Dodge Charger R/T (91953). The Dodge body shape was less complicated and proved to be "easier" to fabricate. Since I have four complete Monster Jam underbodies with wheels and tires that lack body shells, this '51 Chevy was my first attempt to fabricate a body shell for one of them. Thanks for looking... AFTER::::::

Maisto's 1:18 scale 1994 Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet was found at a thrift shop needing a little work done to it, essentially removing much dust and giving it a good cleaning. And there was no spare in the front compartment. Don't know if when it was new, whether it had one or not. A little detailing was done here and there to the interior and engine bay.. Thanks for looking...

Motor Max 1:24 scale "Fresh Cherries" diecast model kits of three 1974 notorious small American hatchback cars- the Pinto, the Gremlin and the Vega. On four separate areas of their display box it is indicated that the trunk opens. This is not the case for my three hatchback models as their back panels are sealed. It would have been a real nice feature if that panel did, in fact, open. And I don't recall that MotorMax made any of these 1974 models with actual trunks other than the hatchbacks. Have to give MotorMax credit for coming out with images such as these based on the original 1:1s being unique and quirky. The Chevy Vega came gray primered in the kit and was painted yellow; the other two were factory pre-painted as such. Notable quotes from the liner notes: 1974 Ford Pinto "Although Ford sold thousands of Pintos, there aren't too many around anymore." 1974 AMC Gremlin X "American Motors offered the Gremlin X package as early as 1971, calling it 'The sharpest, sportiest group of features in one package.'" 1974 Chevrolet Vega "Another standard feature found on the Vega was front wheel disc brakes- a FIRST for any GM vehicle." Thanks for looking...

A 1:18 scale Welly 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Extended Cab pulling a modified Maisto motorcycle trailer with two 1:18 scale Harley-Davidsons, a damaged white 2000 Harley- Davidson FLSTF™ Fat Boy® and a yellow and silver 2004 Harley-Davidson FXSTDSE2 CVO. All of these models were found at a thrift shop. To attach the trailer a removable hitch was made from card stock, aluminum and plastic. The trailer was also fixed so that it can now transport motorcycles in three areas rather than just the one as per the factory. The 1973 BMW R75/5 cycle and Chevy pickup are by Welly in 1:18 scale. Everything else is by Maisto. Thanks for looking... Joining in for a visit are two old 1:18 scale Maistos: a red 2000 Ducati Supersport 900 and a yellow 2000 Honda CBR 600 F4. Got loaded on the truck bed a damaged Welly 1973 BMW R75/5. The last pickup of the day of a severly damaged and wrecked white Maisto 2008 Ducati 848. It's a shame as it is missing both tires and all the fairings.

This article says it all as a preamble to my Magnum post: https://www.allpar.com/cars/lx/magnum-2018.html#:~:text=Since the Dodge Magnum was killed off after the 2008,crossovers and hatchbacks soar in Now this 1:25 scale Revell 'Large' (Germany) diecast kit was bought around 2006 on closeout. The model is a custom Dodge Magnum RT which features scissor doors, simulated TV monitors in multiple locations, opening hood and pan HEMI engine and, of course, oversize rims with red calipers. Revell wanted to capture the current street scene of the mid 2000s. As the article suggests, perhaps we will see the return of a new Magnum in the near future, albeit, not as extravagant as Revell's version. Thanks for looking... [Forgot to properly close the door before shooting this and #5 pic]

Out of the box, these 1:43 scale Wellys show a goodly amount of wonderful detailing and precision. The castings and paint are crisp and clean. Bought at a dollar store in 2013, all the Welly NEX (New Exploration) models do feature quite a bit of plastic, yet it serves its purposes very well with rolled up windows all around and authentic-looking tires and wheels. Pretty impressive at such a low price point. Thanks for looking... Mini Cooper S Audi R8 Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4 Volkswagen The Beetle Aston Martin V12 Vantage Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG

JT, that makes perfect sense due to you being in a very large metropolis and in the big state of Texas where everything is bigger! Since I live in a "rural" state and sparsely populated to boot, spotting any foreign cars are on the rarer side. The only Alfa that I know of here is an older vintage restored convertible one owned by my niece which isn't driven in public very much at all. As for newer foreign models, have never seen one. Seen a couple of Maseratis, a Fiskar, two or three Ferraris and Lambos, and an older De Tomasa over the years. LOL

Sorry about that Randy. You are absolutely right. It does indeed have an opening hood and an engine underneath. Before shooting the pictures, I checked the chassis' bottom and it just was one piece with the engine and transmission and all the other components included in the single mold. I assumed the hood was sealed, too, as it was quite tight fitting. So much for assumptions. I should have checked further before hastily taking pictures. LOL

Here's one you don't see everyday on the open road... at least not here in the States. It's a 1:24 scale Motor Max Alfa Romeo 159 Sportswagon. Unusual model in that all windows are shown in the up position. Two doors open and that's it, however. Wheels roll on straight metal axles, so no steering. Bargain brand, no engine. Tight-fitting hood opens up revealing an all black , one-piece engine. Shut line was so tight I thought it was sealed. But it is an Alfa. And that's a good thing for those who like Alfas.

This 1:32 scale diecast 1923 Chevrolet Series D one-ton truck is made by New Ray from their Classic Collection. New Ray is a budget brand noted for their many truck castings among others. Their detailing is fair and presentable in most cases. The Chevy truck here has but two opening panels-the hood. Rendering of the engine is modest. Wheels are mounted on straight metal axles, so no stearable action. The graphics are nice and the gas tanks look realistic enough, but are molded as one single unit and are not removable. Neither does the tail gate open. The bed is painted and textured to resemble wood. For its low cost and old-time appeal, however, it's easily a diecast model worth having. As far as I know, New Ray maybe the only maker of a 1923 Chevy truck! Thanks for looking...

My favorite Chevys are from the years 1939 to 1967, with the obvious Tri-Fives and the latter two years of the 1950s being very highly regarded. Into the 60s, each and every year marked a good one to boot. Somehow tho, the ones in the 50s seem to edge out the latter ones in appeal to me. Maybe it's just nostalgia. There are those that will probably cite the wheels on this model as being inappropriate, demeaning and disrespectful to the 50s era, and even ugly. Be that as it may, the lines of this 1:24 scale Jada custom 1959 Chevrolet Impala hardtop still ring true to 1950s nostalgia. Personally, the casting here provides a hearty dose of it. The metallic white paint job with the continental kit outback screamed to me to photograph it. Certainly not stock, certainly not completely authentic, but certainly 1950s and unique! Thanks for looking...

JT, I think it would be difficult to duplicate as the metal would break when forcing various distortions. Below are examples of 1:18 scale Revell Ford Mustangs that are continuing the cancer process. Note the years involved. Your suggestion about not having to weather them is correct, but adding to the "decay" with paints, stains and powders certainly improves the junkyard looks. I did this with the Mustangs. The Camaro has been decaying for about four years now. [In 2014 I put the following post together. In the year 2020, the three models are pretty much in the same condition except that "Ugly" has deteriorated even more.] Of all the various things that can totally ruin your diecasts, like dropping them, the one problem you definitely don't want your models to have is the dreaded diecast cancer! These two 1:18 Revell (#08753) 1965 Ford Mustang Convertibles in a teal color have had the disease since sometime before 2004. In 2004, I received the "Bad" and the "Ugly" as "gifts", in assorted pieces, and went to work on piecing them back together to try and actually salvage them. After about two weeks of work using jigs and braces and different adhesives, the models finally stayed together. Ever since then, the cancer has been growing steadily, with deep fissures in the body, swelling parts, and the cracking of joints. In 2013, a fellow collector graciously sent me an old "Good" version of the Mustang, missing the wipers and a rear wheel and tire. This copy had no cancer whatsoever, and with parts from "Ugly", is now complete, whole and healthy. "Ugly" , on the other hand, has deteriorated to the point wherein I had to relegate it to the beater junk yard. Current alterations to it were made in 2014. One headlight and turn signal light were removed and the front passenger seat deformed purposely to make it look the proper part. Debris and a spare tire in the back seat were added to the interior for extra emphasis. On "Bad", both doors are non-functional now as they were permanently glued with Gorilla glue to actually hold the entire model together. The hoods on both "Bad" and "Ugly" still work barely, but notice how wildly distorted they are. And on "Ugly", see how much the lower rear valiance protrudes from the rest of the car. "Ugly" currently suffers from a damaged front suspension and a non-stock, Dub-style rear wheel just to get it off the ground. Finally, both have lost big chunks of their rocker panels, making both models essentially two pieces- a front clip and a rear clip- held together by the chassis alone. Much has been written about this diecast cancer problem, and this particular teal Revell model is notorious for having it. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any remedy to completely stop the progression of the disease once the model is afflicted. Guess I'm "lucky" these two very sick ponies have survived for the last sixteen years. And that I have become an adopted parent of a "Good" healthy one. I knew a time would eventually come when one or both models reached their point of no return. It was quite a bit of fun with "Ugly" converting it to an almost complete wreck. "Bad's" fate is not so far in the future. Thanks for looking..... The "GOOD" in 2014 The "BAD" in 2014 The "UGLY" in 2014 Condition of "UGLY" in 2009 2020 : Here is what "Bad" and "Ugly" look like currently. The cracks you see are in the actual metal of the model, not in any body fillers. There are no opening panels on either car as all the hinges have given way to the cancer and the panels glued in place. Care has to be taken lest the models actually break in half. If it were not for the bodies glued to the chassis, they would. Engines in both are in excellent shape, however. "Bad" "Ugly"

This Motor Max (#73293) 1:24 scale diecast 1967 Chevrolet Camaro SS soft top American Graffiti model kit included two sets of custom flame decals and a pre-primed body. The soft convertible top is plastic. The kit was bought new a number of years ago for five dollars and proved to be a decent one. Painting and detailing of the car was satisfying. The quality of the parts and all appeared to be quite good at that time, but after a couple of years degradation began and persists to this day. It is so severe now that if any panels were to be forced open, the hinges would surely break or the part itself would be bent out of shape and /or dislodged from the car. Essentially, the model is now "sealed" with no access to the engine, trunk or the interior via the doors. I wonder if others who have or had this particular kit met with these same problems- the dreaded diecast cancer! Thanks for looking...

A little background first.... Gowland & Gowland (England) was one of the early plastic scale modeling companies. Gowland & Gowland designed 30 kits which Revell issued as the Highway Pioneers series from 1951 thru 1953. Highway Pioneers Series Two, 1/32 scale, featured these five cars molded in ( ): 1908 Buick "10" Rumble (red) 1914 Stutz Bearcat (yellow) 1915 Model "T" Ford Sedan (black) 1910 Studebaker Electric Coupe (green) 1910 Cadillac Limousine (light blue)- 2 copies These models had been built in the late 50s and put away in the hot attic in 1961. They remained there until 2007. All those years(46!) in the attic had totally warped and disfigured the models. The Studebaker's smaller parts had literally crumbled into powder, and its mangled body shed countless slivers of decayed plastic. The Studebaker's so-called "body" might be a subject of a future diorama as it is absolute junk, with no possibility of ever restoring. After completing the redo of one of the two 1910 Cadillac Limousines, the 1915 Ford Model "T" Center Door Sedan and the 1914 Stutz Bearcat, I began working on the 1908 Buick Model 10 Rumble. "The 1908 Buick Model 10 Rumble was a two-seater up front with an additional back single seat or "rumble" seat in the rear. This back seat was popularly called the “mother-in-law” seat. The Buick's four-cylinder (cast in pairs) engine produced 18 horsepower. It had a 92 inch wheelbase and a planetary transmission." This model was warped and disfigured, but not as badly as the previous ones. It was on the workbench a goodly amount of time because of its warped nature, missing parts and my inability to determine what particular parts were on the original 1:1 Buick Model 10 and what parts were or were not included in the original model kit as the kit's instruction sheet was unavailable. Specifically I struggled with the question of the windshield, its support brackets and the top- how they were configured on the 1:1 car. As per the internet, there are photos of multiple variations. I opted to scratch build a windshield and brackets for the top as a complete unit that is removable, thereby leaving the "hot rod" runabout version topless and with no windscreen. However, due to space necessary for measuring and positioning the windshield brackets, the two "running lanterns" located on the cowl will now not fit, so they are absent on the top up version although they could be mounted on the "hot rod" version permanently. This would then nix ever using the top, though. One headlight, a running lantern and the gear shift mechanism were all cast in water putty from an original part. The front axle is plastic sprue and the lower springs are strips of aluminum as all these critical pieces were missing. The original rumble seat was missing, too, so a scrap piece of plastic had cut straight pins applied to the seating area to mimic a slight tuck and roll look similar to the front seats. Black elecrical tape serves as a mat on the running boards. Fine copper wire and craft wire serve as brackets and supports for the top. The only disappointment is that the top cannot fit if the running lanterns are mounted to the cowl. Otherwise, the entire lengthy and tedious process was an enjoyable project. Suppose the final decision is: top up without running lanterns in formal mode OR top down with running lanterns affixed in hot rod mode? Thanks for looking.... Hot Rod without running lanterns: Hot Rod with running lanterns:

A little background first.... Gowland & Gowland (England) was one of the early plastic scale modeling companies. Gowland & Gowland designed 30 kits which Revell issued as the Highway Pioneers series from 1951 thru 1953. Highway Pioneers Series Two, 1/32 scale, featured these five cars molded in ( ): 1910 Cadillac Limousine (light blue)- 2 copies 1915 Model "T" Ford Center Door Sedan (black) 1908 Buick "10" Rumble (red) 1914 Stutz Bearcat (yellow) 1910 Studebaker Electric Coupe (green) These models had been built in the late 50s and put away in the hot attic in 1961. They remained there until 2007. All those years(46!) in the attic had totally warped and deformed the models. The Studebaker's smaller parts had literally crumbled into powder, and its mangled body shed countless slivers of decayed plastic. The Studebaker's so-called "body" might be a subject of a future diorama as it is absolute junk, with no possibility of ever restoring. After completing the redo of one of the two 1910 Cadillac Limousines and the 1915 Ford Model "T" Center Door Sedan recently, I began working on this 1914 Stutz Bearcat.This model wasn't quite as badly warped as the others, but still significanly so. My recollection is that when new years ago, the front suspension especially along with the main body were already warped and ill-fitting. The rear suspension's plastic had degraded so much that all that could be saved were the springs and the differential. A rear axle was made from plastic sprue. Up front, it was sort of worse in that the layout of the correct suspension wasn't at all obvious and basically out of shape. A metal flat bar was fastened to the front axle to give it strength as the plastic was extremely crumbly. The springs here, too, were misaligned and crooked. The plastic was so decrepit that when bonding with Super glue, the two surfaces held but the underlying plastic literally gave way. To gain integrity and to give joints extra strength, moldeling putty was thinly applied over them. From various photos of actual 1914 Stutz Bearcats, it appears some had a small circular windscreen mounted to the steering wheel stalk. Maybe I'll make one for this model in the future. Thanks for looking...

A little background first.... Gowland & Gowland (England) was one of the early plastic scale modeling companies. Gowland & Gowland designed 30 kits which Revell issued as the Highway Pioneers series from 1951 thru 1953. Highway Pioneers Series Two, 1/32 scale, featured these five cars molded in ( ): 1910 Cadillac Limousine (light blue)- 2 copies 1915 Model "T" Ford Center Door Sedan (black) 1908 Buick "10" Rumble (red) 1914 Stutz Bearcat (yellow) 1910 Studebaker Electric Coupe (green) These models had been built in the late 50s and put away in the hot attic in 1961. They remained there until 2007. All those years(46!) in the attic had totally warped and deformed the models. The Studebaker's smaller parts had literally crumbled into powder, and its mangled body shed countless slivers of decayed plastic. The Studebaker's so-called "body" might be a subject of a future diorama as it is absolute junk, with no possibility of ever restoring. After completing the redo of one of the two 1910 Cadillac Limousines recently, I opted to finish working on this 1915 Model "T" Ford Center Door Sedan. Seven clamps were used for about two months to attempt to get the two main body parts aligned; seven clamps were also used for the same time period as well to possibly straighten up the chassis/fenders part. The two main body parts were Gorilla glued together requiring seven clamps. Then the now single unit main body needed further straightening under heat to match up correctly with the chassis/fenders part in an assembly process. This work took six clamps and four or five heating sessions. To join the chassis/fenders to the main body was a royal pain as various clamps were needed to finally bring the parts snugly together utilizing Gorilla Glue Clear. The glue is quite strong, fills gaps and is paintable. But it takes 24 hours to reach its full strength. I wait at least 36 to 48 to be sure, as parts under stress possibly separating when the clamps are removed would necessitate starting the job all over again, which indeed, happened. The second attempt bore fruit as the glue held completely tight under the stress when the clamps were removed and the joint fit snugly. Luckily, all the remaining smaller parts, two side lanterns, wheels, seats and the front radiator/axle unit were all intact and complete and only needed proper coloring. These parts were not deformed in any way. Finally, it all came together out of the "fog" looking like this:

A little background first.... Gowland & Gowland (England) was one of the early plastic scale modeling companies. Gowland & Gowland designed 30 kits which Revell issued as the Highway Pioneers series from 1951 thru 1953. Highway Pioneers Series Two, 1/32 scale, featured these five cars molded in ( ): 1908 Buick "10" Rumble (red) 1914 Stutz Bearcat (yellow) 1915 Model "T" Ford Sedan (black) 1910 Studebaker Electric Coupe (green) 1910 Cadillac Limousine (light blue)- 2 copies These models had been built in the late 50s and put away in the hot attic in 1961. They remained there until 2007. All those years(46!) in the attic had totally warped and disfigured the models. The Studebaker's smaller parts had literally crumbled into powder, and its mangled body shed countless slivers of decayed plastic. The Studebaker's so-called "body" might be a subject of a future diorama as it is absolute junk, with no possibility of ever restoring. Okay, now there was another 1910 Cadillac Limousine in extremely rough and terrible shape, the worst of the lot besides the Studebaker. This is the model I chose to start on first of the group to "restore" and is shown below. The Cadillac did have its wheels fortunately, but like the rest of the models, was extremely warped, so much so, that the possibility of getting it to a point wherein the two body halves would actually align and join up somewhat seemed almost impossible as all joining edges were crooked, incompatible and uneven, Heating the larger misaligned plastic body parts wasn't viable as the thinner and/or projecting parts on it would get distorted. So all the models above were subjected to over two month's worth of jigs, braces, weights and clamps. Many types of clamps- bar clamps, 'C' clamps, hand clamps, alligator clips, clothes pins, etc. Mechanical methods and techniques were used to straighten and to get the parts back to a semblance of their original shape. The Cadillac was missing a headlight lantern, a tail light lantern, license plate, rear valance, left front spring assembly, both axles incomplete, and a huge depression in the roof which required extensive filling and sanding to "repair". Upon its completion, I'm having a hard time believing it came out as it did, as I had initially thought it couldn't be done. My adhesive of choice and the saviour of the model was Gorilla Clear. Now its on to the other 1910 Cadillac, the Buick, the Stutz or the Model "T", whichever is the most difficult to redo. LOL Thanks for looking....

This is a 1:18 scale plastic bodied Mercedes-Benz GL-550 model made by Jingwei Industrial Company, Limited in China which specilizes in developing, producing and selling remote control cars, especially the copyright ones, such as Hummer, Audi, Cadillac, Chevrolet etc. I came across this model at a local thrift store and from a distance thought it might be a higher end diecast model. The looks of it are very nice, the trim work and wheels well done and with a detailed interior. No opening panels, but with spring suspension and operable lights both front and rear. The kicker was that this model was only one dollar. Thanks for looking....

From Chenghai, China via Jingwei Industrial Company, Limited (*) comes these two 1:24 scale 2012 Chevrolet Corvette C6Rs. They are featherweight plastic bodied, no interiors, no opening parts, metal axles and rear wheel driven by a geared, fast-turning (when pushed a few brisk times) metal flywheel arrangement. Both models were one dollar each from a local thrift store. The "Corvette Racing"-logoed rear wing model had an unrepairable drive gear missing two of its teeth, so its "engine" won't function. The other "Sirius one will haul, assuming enough "revs" are provided. Due to their lightness, weights were installed internally to give them some substantial mass and heft. And because of their cheap price and their questionable quality, they were bought strictly for possible use as donor cars. But for now, I do like the flaired fenders and the graphics of these two. (*) Jingwei Industrial Company, Limited specilizes in developing, producing and selling remote control cars, especially the copyright ones, such as Hummer, Audi, Cadillac, Chevrolet etc. This explains precisely why these two models are the way they are. Thanks for looking...

This 1:24 scale diecast model of a 1954 Chevrolet lowrider is by Malibu International Ltd. "Long Beach Lowrider Repair". Malibu did a decent job with the interior, the straight six engine and the underside. Fairly well built and hefty, too. The hood won't close tightly for some reason. And the exhaust pipe was just a rectangular plastic glob which needed to be altered. It was colored silver and two holes drilled to improve the appearance. The scallops are water slide decals which you don't see often on diecast models. Its most notable and unusual feature, however, is a fully poseable suspension which I found fairly difficult to quickly change from slammed to raised, but much easier vice versa. And in the slammed position the lines look so fine, hence it's pretty much left in that position all the time. Who knows how long the poseable mechanism will last anyway, so why overtax it. LOL The shaved hood and truck lid, as well as the frenched in tail lights, provides some old school custom charm. Thanks for looking....