slowly

Ok it is officially started, i put down a couple of layers of styrene to make sure it would fit nicely... then i dumped a tube load of filler on it! > http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/s...=Picture002.jpg

Sorry Ed, I got your PM but never got around to replying to it but that is awesome advice, It'll help me fix that hotrod for sure Heres my latest endevour... using a fishtank with a side missing and a rusted out old 31 ford >

Stuff it, I'll just post a link http://amcc.forum-motion.com/how-to-s-q-s-...-tuts-t1298.htm Post up what you's think of them

Wow that failed pretty good huh? Ill fix em up when I have had some coffee... or I can just link yous to the forum they are on... but im not sure of the link-to-other-forum policy you's have here... ?

These are a few of my mini tutorials Iv been doing for a while... theyre very basic (NOOBY!!) and you'll probably need your imagination for them But here goes anyway... (sorry if they are a bit wierd looking, but I couldnt be bothered writing them all again, so i copied and pasted them from a HTML source) SIMPLEIFIED CARBY LINKAGE Right, here we go; Carbies make sure the right amount of fuel and air go into the engine. below is a picture of the inside of a simple carburetor. notice the choke valve and the throttle valve, im not sure wich, if not both, require linkage. Since I'm doing my linkage very much lower than the choke valve im going out on a limb and saying that im doing links for the throttle valve . A couple weekends ago a mate and I were replacing the gasket for the manifold on a straight 6 engine, which involved taking off the manifold completely- while poking and prodding about I noticed that the carby linkage resembles the mechanism for the brakes of a push bike... vaguely. So now Iv got sort of a new way of looking at carby wires etc. Sorry for all the stories and words-here come the pics...<br Simple carby 'slice'<img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/55%20Sportsman/300px-Carburetor_svg.png" alt="Image" /><br /><br />OK i started by stuffing 2 lengths of 8amp fuse wire into a 1mm hollow wire about 5mm in and bending about 3-4mm at the ends 90 degrees-<br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/55%20Sportsman/Picture125.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Next i drilled 2 very small holes on a flat bit of the carby/manifold-<br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/55%20Sportsman/Picture124.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Then carefully stuck the two ends of the fuse wire in the holes and hey presto! really easy carby linkage... since the holes are slightly hidden by the fuel resivoirs I didnt even worry about tension plates or springs. If you are feeling particularly skilled you could add a small tension plate to the back of the manifold where the fuse wires meet the 1mm one I didnt- it was 5am- 'nuff said.<br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/55%20Sportsman/Picture126.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />I also added some fuel lines coming from the fuel resivoirs going to a random cylinder poking from the engine block that is now the fuel pump <img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/55%20Sportsman/Picture127.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />So there you have it, Hope this helps some of you's out! (you can get fuse-wire from almost any hardware shop and its dirt cheap, and comes in many sizes Coming next (hopefully) Bodgy's Clear Wheels- weather he builds them or not! BONNET PINS I saw some sewing pins at the supermarket and thaught they could be useful for something model-wise, didnt take me 5 mins to do so yous would probably know it over in a few seconds <br /><br />Get yourself some sewing pins with the heads on them, relatively thin ones (mine are .65mm apparently) and chop the sharp end off, just so you dont ###### yourself while handling it, then get some really thin wire, I used the wire i stripped from the 1mm tubing ages ago, fold it in half, loop in around the pin and pin vice twist it until it looks like so,<br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/Picture002-2.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Now drill your hole wherever you want,<br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/Picture001-1.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />now all you gotta do is chop the pin down to a reasonable size, leaving enough room for you to loop the wire back on it and go through the hole!<br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/Picture003-1.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/Picture004-1.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />May not be as detailed as the photo-etched ones, but a helluva lot esier, and im sure theres pins with smaller heads on the end if you look around... just thaught id share RANDOM WIRES OK im not sure this first part belongs in the Tutorial section, but hey, its cheap and effective <br /><br />Part 1:<br />Start by finding an old unused electrical applience of some sort... I used old broken computer speakers. If you are taking something apart please make sure it is unplugged Computer speakers will usually have a cord running from them to a green plug. Thats the cord you want. Take the cord off and cut it into 10cm leangths. Now *carefully* take your hobby-knife and slice the length of cord longways. Now you will most likely see 2 small wires, carefully remove them but pulling it through the slice you made down the big cord... Now that the hard part is done lets start witht he next hard part <br /><br />Cut the small wires into desired lengths, i did 5cm... the end of it whould look like this...<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture111.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />if the teeny tiny wires arent showing just do a diagonal cut at the end of the wire and you should be right.<br /><br />Heres the fun part! Take a pair of tweezers and slide the tiny wires out of the bigger wire...<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture112.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Make sure to get all of the tiny wires out, so your .5mm wire will fit in its place..you will end up with 1mm hollow 'tubing' perfect for making plug boots! you can do as much or as little as you want... i did alot <br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture114.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />You will also end up with a messy pile of those tiny wires, dont throw them away! They can be useful!<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture115.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />You can use them for all sorts of stuff! Like making tiny 'twist ties'... heres one example. <br /><br />Having wires run along, or having 'padding' strapped roll cages would look cool on a drag or racing car i rekon, I practiced feebly on an old 1 peice rollcage... you'll need a voulenteer rollcage, your trusty (or rusty) pinvice, wire or 'padding' to run along the rollcage and a few of those tiny wires you extracted from the 'plug tubing'.<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture116.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Make a loop with a tiny wire and put the 2 ends meeting in the end of your pinvice...<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture117.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Now place your wire (pictured black) on the bars of the rollcage where you want it, loop your tiny wire on the end of the pinvice around the cage with the wire on it and twist away!<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture118.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />When it is tight enough to hold the wire (pictured black) in place simply cut the twisted wire to your desired length and hey presto! Do it as many or as few times as you like, remember the love is in the detail <br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/plug%20wires/Picture119.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />I bet yous can come up with way cooler ways to use this technique, so lets hear em!<br /><br />Sorry for all the long-winded explinations, but I hope yous can take this and use it heaps of different ways! MUFFLERS I baught some piping from Toyworld a while ago and have been experimenting with it in different ways... this is one <br /><br />Its relatively cheap and easy to handle and cut... and bend! OK here we go, my first tutorial!<br /><br />Cut desired lengths of 3 different sized pipe, I cut the biggest 3cm, the middle 2cm and the smallest 2.5 cm<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/1-1.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Now put the smallest one through the middle one, making sure that one of the ends matches up.<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/2-2.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />Now slide the big one over them both and adjust to your liking...<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/3.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br />You may want a nice exhause system to go with your shiny new tip, so get an even smaller pipe and slide into the end of the tip and bent to suit the car, in this case its my Supra, to make a muffle its pretty simple, just cut even leangths of the three pipes and slide into eachother and place on the smallest pipe where you see fit. Somthing Michele said stuck with me, it was along the lines of &quot;It dosent have to start, just look good.&quot; If you go by these words you'll end up with a good-looking exhaust.<br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/4.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/end.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br /><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/slowlylearning/end2.jpg" alt="Image" /></div> They arent that great, but I figured people could elaborate on them and get some ideas... hope they somewhat help

hey thanks guys, some tope info your handing out! Nope, it was straight from the can, i dont use an airbrush cause i dont have a compressor:( Ans i didnt use the primer I have as it was a different brand and the test piece with primer and the met paint turned out extremely horrid, probably had some problems as the primer was a different brand. I spose I just got over-eager and didnt think and now the model is paying for it But i will dip it in brake fluid after a severe sanding etc. Thanks Ed, thats some info i can use on a few other projects (69 charger, 57 ford, 56 ford, dodge magnum, Prelude- just to name a few ). Come to think of it I see newish cars these days with horribly stippl-y painjobs, but so much clear smacked on the top that the texture of the surface is really smooth but its mostly on metallic paints, I spose its just how the factory paints em really quickly to get em off the assembly line aye crazy, the rocker cover is only on there so I could see if i wired it too tight, but the engine is meant to be a chevy big block, so im going to strip the chrome from them and fill in the letters. As for the thread, If someone could move it to the workbecnh that would be stellar, as i dont want to set fire to anything (im horrible with computers, I think i was born in the generation before the new breed of computer whiz-kids )

Heres the latest, its a POOH (pulled out of hat) build for another forum, the subject is 50's Drag, but I'm cheating a bit Have almost finished the engine, just need to fix up those rocker covers that say PONTIAC... Would love some ref piccies or info on those diagonal-sitting carbys... I brushed tamiya 'smoke' all over this sucker, dunno why, just makes it look gritty and used I spose. Still madly sanding away at those tyres to get rid of that insightly mould line. Havent touched the body yet, will be trying somethng new with the paint, will get a regular colour then ill mask off a stripey down the side and use a scrunched up ball of foil to press a pattern into the tacky paint then sand it all down smooth, wish me luck! I'll need it.

Go to your car and swipe a fingerfull of oily residue Other than that I just smack on some tamiya smoke and while it is still wet sand up some chalk pastel or charcoal and drybrush it into the smoke in all the usual places. or you can paint the engine whatever colour you want, fill a small container with very fine dirt mixture and shake away! Another thing I do is go and snap some rust off the car in my garage waiting for a restoration, grind up the rust and pretty much use the same technique as with the container of dirt, then add tamiya smoke over the top of that and let it all soak in... hope this helps!

I was thinking to myself today weather to do a box-stocker build for that chev, but Ed mate, I'm pretty sure I missed out on the genome that makes you want to do a box stock build Im just going to chuck some whitewalls on it and use some torque thrusts in em'... maybe a nice simple stock-looking paintjob with some nice chrome Hahaha I like to mix and match the bits, thats why I start em all... gets the creative juices going Heres the latest... the paint on the ford is monged... I went agains rays suggestions and did a couple of really thick coats... thats automotive paint and as you can see is orange-peeled to the brick-house!... suggestions? what can i do to it to make it in any way smoother without stripping it and starting it again?

I decided just to confine my builds to one thread, makes it so much esier Hope you enjoy! Heres the latest... Joint build with Ray... 76 Caprice, Iv done the ride height, paint-job, engine wires... 53 Belair... wont be building anytime soon, dont know what to do with it, suggestions very welcome! 32 Ford Sedan... best rod Iv got my grubby mits on... wite-striped the tyres, using the wire-wheels, going very traditional, going out for paint tomorro morning, so get your votes in! Will most likely get a schmikko paint job since its my first rod besides that dead one i did a while back... That engine is a Dodge one i was test fitting, but ill most likely use the kit-supplie Mustang donk. This is a Handa Prelude, front wheels drive... but not for lon, will be pinching a random ricer engine from god-knows-where (anyone? ) Them wheels are the Supra ones, who else thinks they are too big? The kit is 1:25 its just a tiny car :roll: This is a Toyota Celsior.. Yeah I know TWO ricerish cars! Im thinking of doing a stealth drift Car, since its curbside I dont have to do an engine, just a ricer cannon exhaust :roll: Maybe a 3 tone paintjob on this one, but keep it looking relatively stock :? Not entirely sure as of yet

Brian its so hot that the snakes are sweating I would love some rain right about now, but I went down the the genie lamp store and they said they were all out! Thanks for the warm welcome there george! Heres a couple of mine, not the best, but they work great for dust-catching... BMW took a couple weeks I think, those are wheels from an eclipse I made into deepdish thingos... 57 Ford, took me a couple weeks also, just a quicky, basically BS excpet for tyres and wheels...

I seem to remember a tutorial on leather, may be the one above (cant click it computer being tempremental:P) But a fello got some real leather, shaved the back to a certain tin-ness then took a metal ruler and hammer then impressed the plat pattern into it by hitting the edge of the ruler onto the leather... hope that somewhat helps... if not theres a custom trans tunner cover in the AMT 57 Ford kit with that pattern i think

Hey all, Just thaught I'd say a quick Hello before taking a look around! I'm slowly, aka slowlylearning, aka kc Im 17 (for a few more days) Been building for a few years, have 20-ish projects on the go and 3 finished. I just keep taking them off the shelf to change a couple of things and all of a sudden I'm re-doing the whole thing! I dont think Im a terribly 'professional' modeller, but thats why I joined the Forums I have. Cant wait to see what you's have in yout Tips and Tricks folder! Cheers, kc