4BKT VET

What's with the micro sized pics? Their even small on P-Bucket.

I can see the value in capturing over spray, but how does one of these prevent dirt from entering the area you are operating from? I built a completely enclosed downdraft unit, but had problems with the paint always being too dry. I built the entire thing from wood with a variable speed blower. It was basically like a small blast cabinet. It had a set of lights, gloves, 3 stage air inlet filter, 2 stage exhaust filters, a large viewing window and a thermometer. The concept was great, basically the air brush is inside a clean environment. The next attempt will be to build a small Clean Room. I built one at work for micro electronics assembly, but 20 people work in that one. I plan on a closet size set up and going for the down draft deal with dual door entry.

You must be older, therefore more careful. When I was 15, I was into Big Rigs. I got tired of all the east coast ###### they say are trucks, 5th wheel type. Also we have thousands of 2 axle "Shorties". These are cabover's with a cab so short, it doesn't always cover the motor. I also found no extended sleeper cab trucks. So with the money I saved up, I bought 2 AMT Kenworth cabover kit's, a "Zona saw from AutoWorld. I cut the very back edge off of one, and everything just behind the doors of the other and swapped parts. Then I takled the interiors and frame's. The most trouble I had was the frames, but I soon figured out around that too. The bottom line here is don't be afraid to push your skills. Try not to get too high of expectations but keep a clear imagination as to what needs to be accomplished. No doubt you will be very surprised where it takes you. Granted it takes longer, but there are other things to do in life, and that too will improve skills and patients. Good luck man. BTW: My mom bought me a funny car and some glue and sent me upstairs (1968-69). I had glue all over everything, but I did get it built and nobody showed me a thing.

I guess I better hold on to those a while longer.

Established kit? Sometime those are NOT too cool. I'm not sure it would make any difference if the recommended kit were available unless you needed bumpers, trim and interior parts. My 64 Chevelle wagon is supposed to use the AMT 65 Chevelle Wagon kit. That kit is so out of date in design it's ridiculous. The interior tub with the resin and the tub with the wagon kit make use of the huge pins molded into the tail gate that the chassis plate attaches too. I'm so dissatisfied with it that I am using the side panels and rear floor from the wagon kit and the rest of the interior from the Z16 kit. I am also using the frame, inner fender wells (cut from the body of the Z16) in place of the chassis kit. I'm not even using the window set from the AMT Wagon kit. Bottom line, I don't really need it, not even for the motor, it doesn't have the correct valve covers. It does get expensive when you need to start kit bashing more than one car to get the job done, but in the end it's well worth it. Most of the kit stuff has to be modified to work with resins anyhow, in some instances, you can scratch build the stuff, especially if it isn't a showroom stock type car.

If you look at the back edge of the door post at the top, you'll see they are squared off unlike Elco. The difference between 64 & 65; Front clip, 65 has back up lamps in bumper, 64 has flat dash insert, 65 has pointed. 64 has bright molding over the drip rails, 65 does not. Interior stitching is different. None of the 2 door wagons was offered with the third seat, less that 100 64 wagons got out of the factory with a 327, almost all were hi-perf 283 with a Rochester 4 Jet, 65 was the first year for Quadrajet.

Another car I want to build (1:1 and 1/25) is a 68 Impala wagon with hideaway headlights; but with a Duramax Yah, I like wagons.

1964 to 1967 A-Body wagon roofs are the same, even the Vista Cruiser roof is the same except the raised windows, someone grafted one on a real 2 Door Chevelle wagon, looks pretty cool. One thing I ran into is that the grill seems a half scale wider. The solution was to graft the better looking cowl from the Z16 car and widen it. Now the hood fits. I did have to buy a new hood from Drag city since the casting on 2 of mine were so bad. I also was talked into buying a new plated grill from the ModelHaus. It's slowley comming together, although I am forced to wear 18/19" wheels instead of the 15" I had on the real car.

Just trying to find the good black paint to spray.

1) Chevelle frame topic; I have restored several Chevelles and here is the low down on frames. 1964-1967 have the same wheel base and 68-72 have 1" (+/-) longer wheel base. Coupe / Sedan / Convert. have the same basic frame. Convert. has boxed rails and 65 Z16 and 66-67 Ss (big block) have stiffeners joining the upper and lower trailing arms at the frame. Elco / Wagon have the same frame except Elco has boxed frame like convert. 2) Love wagons. I had a 64 Chevelle 2 door wagon as a show car (probably seen on the WEB here). All black w/ buckets and 4spd. I'm currently struggling with an old F&F wagon but may have it ready for the "Cruzin For A Cure" car show model exhibit in Sept. (maybe).

I found this when I went to the site... "Effective immediately Kustom Kolor products are no longer for sale. We apologize for the inconvenience."

I totally agree. My interpretation of this is at least "...car you have ever actually experienced behind the wheel". In this order; 70 SuperBird (handels better at 120 than it does at 50). 69 440 SuperBee (440 Six Pac 4spd. Not a gear or tire combo can keep you from spinning them). Mom's 70 Challenger (Orange, 426, dual quads, fact. headders, 4 spd., 3:1, radio deleat, rubber matt, noisey and haul @%^!) 2005 GTO ( current DD, great for big mountain roads). 67 Miura (Not what you'd expect, but sounds bitchin'). 64 Chevelle wagon (2 door car would hunker down at 110MPH, excellent traveling car). 67 Malibu (Great Vintage American, too much to say). ...and several others

Haven't you heard, "Old Fords never die, the just get a Chevy small block." Really, it should be a ford motor, Hemi's are for Willy's. ...and take those blue oval shades off and look around. There are ton's of old Chevy's out there, they just don't put Ford motors in them. Besides, Ford's didn't originally have a Ford motor, they had a Dodge Bros. drive train, hence the term F^&*edup Old Rebuilt Dodge.

Well, for one, The 2004-2006 GTO is a re-badged Holden Monaro and the G8 is a Holden Commador, both GM from down under. Same place the Camaro is going to be built. So, that leaves the Solstice. I suspect that GM will flee N. America once they get more money from US (you and me) for their Brazill plant, just like the last batch of money. I have been primarily a GM fan, but as of the past couple of decades they have done only a couple of things correctly, TRUCKS and HOT RODS (Vette, GTO, G8). I really don't think they know how to build anything else. Even the Caddies aren't that great anymore, just a couple V series and the XLR (more HOT ROD's). In addition to my '67 Malibu and 2005 GTO, I own a 2004 Lexus IS300. That's a great car that might get an LS2 motor conversion once I flee California. So, not heart broken about GM, devastated over the employee's that have worked for them less than 10 years.

I have an older F&F Resin car I am ready to paint. I wonder if the same is true about brand specific resin parts. I was told by an experienced chrome technician that the F&F stuff doesn't take chrome well. They gave me a reputable modelhouse for a grill and bumper because of the resin casting quality and type. Anyone had experience painting the old F&F stuff?