dwc43
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Posts posted by dwc43
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May be a stupid question, but why is the site going down?
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That looks awesome with all that chrome trim on it. Can't wait to see the finished project.
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8 hours ago, customline said:
Update : Body painted with MCW mix of the factory color, Corinthian White, which seems kinda dark but they are paint experts, are they not? Paint was applied straight from the bottle over Tamiya fine surface white primer. Not sure if I should try to give it a high gloss or not. I have their clear coat so maybe....decals look better on slick glossy paint and there are a significant amount of them 🤔.
Engine, exhaust, gas tank and wheels are now installed. Floor bottom was fogged in order to look "factory correct" 🤓. Thanks for checking in.
Photos taken under white LED illumination.
I think the glossy paint depends on what it is. I see some of these models that have these high gloss paint jobs that you can see yourself in. That's great and they look awesome, but that was never a factory look if that's what you are going for. Even today's cars are not super glossy except in some cases like super cars. The see yourself like a mirror shine is great for a car show car that's never driven anywhere. Back in the day they spent the money on the engine and whatever it took to make it hook and go fast. I'd say most of them had the stock factory paint on them in most cases. A super glossy shine would not be right for that era I would not think. I guess if it was a team with factory support and they had deep pockets they may have gone the distance on a fancy paint job. I guess that's something to think about before you gloss it over.
By the way, it looks great and love the pipe dumps on it.
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24 minutes ago, TarheelRick said:
Seems this post has been turned into a "I remember when" rather than a build post. Any updates on the build?
We're just ramblin and waiting on an update ourselves. lol😁
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The most fun we ever had was at Hohenwald, Tn. We did a 200 lap Enduro race with a Super Street car. We prepped that car and brought enough parts that we could have built 3 more cars in the pits. lol We put tailpipes on the headers with a cross over pipe and ran them out the right side of the car trying to keep the noise down inside the car. Two cars crashed and ran over a bumper punched a hole in the cross over pipe and got a flat. Every time you backed off in the turn it would pop and flame out the pipes putting on a show. We also had a red flag at lap 100 on the front straight. You could refuel and give water or food to the driver, and you could look at the car, but not touch it. WE also had to provide a lap counter in the stands and their numbers had to match the number the track counter had in the booth. After it was over we were loading up and they started calling out the finishing positions from last to first over the PA. We thought we missed out names. We ended up finishing second behind David Earl Gentry. We proceeded to make a lot of noise and you would have thought we won the Daytona 500. lol Good times.
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15 hours ago, bobss396 said:
We had a good class going until the goon squad showed up. One night we had 62 cars signed in for 30 spots to start, so 1/2 the cars sat out.
WOW, that's a lot of cars. I know at my home track and a few others if we got a lot of cars we split them up into two heats and then lined up a normal sized group for the main. WE did have a big dwarf car race one night though. For those that don't know, that's a 1/2 scale 20's and 30's cars running motorcycle engines and cut down Toyota rear axles. They had so many cars there, with the lead cars on the starting line the tail end was halfway down the back stretch. Needless to say, that did not work out to good. Big wreck on 1st lap going into turn one. A couple cars actually got out into the parking lot, well they were hung up in the fencing and I think they did damage a couple cars. And to make it worse, they had to call the FD and EMT's to extricate one of the drivers from his car. He was not hurt bad, just could not get out of the car.
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56 minutes ago, bobss396 said:
Winchester is a tough place. My last year at Islip, we had all the Freeport bombers come race with us after that track closed. Every night was a crash fest.
Crash fest reminds me of the pony cars. Can't get through a race without 10 cautions or more. lol But, I guess you gotta start somewhere.
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2 hours ago, bobss396 said:
Not sure why it did a double post and it wont let me delete it.
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2 hours ago, bobss396 said:
Hydraulic clutches eliminated a z-bar that could pop out of position, if you have ever seen guys circling the track during yellow flags, this is why. They had to leave it in gear. A good shot to the side of the car could loosen one. Most used the slotted tab on the frame rail, ours was a solid welded washer so it had nowhere to go.
That's a fact. I got hit in the left front in the middle of 1 and 2 at Winchester speedway one night by a camaro. It dislodged the z bar mount that bolts to the bellhousing. Lucky, I did not lose the everything. It stayed on the car, but it had no clutch.
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I'm in need of 2 Sun tachometer if anyone has one. Does not matter to me if it's plastic, resin or 3d printed. Thanks in advance.
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2 hours ago, fiatboy said:
Hello Steven. I was recently on a website, I don't remember the name of it. It had many funeral type accessories, including different size coffins; anything you would find in a funeral home. It had absolutely everything! Hope this helps.
3 inches under on Ebay.
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Nice looking car. I always wanted to try racing one of these cars, but in my area, they restricted us to a narrow tire. Too much engine or a heavy right foot and you could easily burn the tires off the things. I had both issues. We always had too much engine (by the rules legal) and i had the heavy right foot too. lol
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Welcome anytime. Chevy is the same too. The thing with Mopar is the big blocks are counterclockwise and the small block are clockwise. I forgot to mention that one. Nevertheless, it looks good.
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Looks good. Firing order is 18436572 for Mopars.
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7 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
I've done something similar where I wanted a bare aluminum panel showing through worn, scuffed, and chipped green zinc-chromate primer.
I shot the panel with Testors buffing metalizer (you could use some other product like Alclad since the Testors product is NLA), let it dry for an hour, buffed it up, let it dry for another week, then shot real zinc-chromate primer over it using the "salt" method, then rubbed the salt off.
The results were exactly what I was looking for.
Sorry...no pix, but I do have the test panel I can photograph and post if you really think it would be helpful.
Thanks for that idea. I don't think a pic will be needed unless you want to post it for others. I think I got the idea of what you did. I have some metallizer too. I need to check and see exactly what I have in those type paints. Thanks.
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6 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
Why not use a piece of foil?
Cover the area, paint it with a thin coat of black, and then use whatever technique you prefer, (solvents or sanding) to remove the paint where you want it removed.
Actual metal will always look more like metal than artificial metal paint.
Another example of where BMF trumps Molotow.
Steve
Thanks. That's not a bad idea at all. I did not think about using that. Glad I asked.
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Most old 30's trucks had a rubber mat in the floor or nothing at all. The truck is black and I need to create the worn surface of the floor. So, the paint is rubbed off and it looks like a somewhat shiny or polished steel where constant wear from your feet has worn the paint off and polished it.
I was thinking about spraying some Motolow Chrome paint on it and then hitting it with a dull coat of some kind to knock the chrome look off of it. Then paint the black around the area that still needs to be black.
I can do some testing on it, but thought I'd ask and get suggestions.
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Looks good so far. Since you mentioned the radio, I thought you might get a kick out of this. Back in the 70's David Pearson had a factory cigarette lighter mounted to the dash of this NASCAR Mercury Cyclone so he could smoke during a race.
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8 hours ago, customline said:
As I was driving this morning my mind wandered away from the road and I envisioned the Tasca traction bars. I guess my subconscious had been working on your explanation of how they work and, like these sort of things usually happen, I finally got it just at the moment I was turning right on a red light and then I heard the blast of a horn of the pickup behind me ("where'd he come from? 🥺.)
Anyway, I think I finally understood that the bar takes the action off the rear half of the springs and as the axle housing tries to turn in the opposite direction of the wheels,the bars actually pull down on the rear most part of the car without losing any energy from spring flexing. All that torque is used to pull the weight of the rear of the car down on the rear tires. I guess you said all that in different words but my brain couldn't "see" it until it ran it through that part of my brain that could deal with it 🤖.....so....do I get it?
Pretty close to it. AS the pinion on the rear axle tries to rotate upward, it will pull the rear of the body downward. Bad thing is that unloads the weight off the rear tires. If you had scales under the car at launch you could easily see that. The main idea behind it was to prevent the front segment of the spring from turning into an s and snapping back and forth causing wheel hop. If you have ever noticed intermittent black marks instead of a solid black mark, well the first one is a wheel hop.
The old slapper bars did the same thing. They Lakewood yellow or chrome traction bars. They mounted to the spring under the axle tube and had a single bar on each side with a rubber snubber on the front that hit the front spring eye mount. It would try to raise the body which as a good thing cause raising the rear ride height puts weight on the rear wheels. But its real job was to stop the front segment of the spring from turning into an S and wheel hopping.
By the way, never put those Lakewood type traction bars on a Mopar. They won't work cause Mopar's use a short segment on the front of the spring and a long rear segment. So, when they launch the rear springs arch up. If both segments were the same length, then it would work like a Ford or Chevy spring. If you notice, Mopar's do what I call a leapfrog when they launch. Front up and back up at almost the same time.
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Looking good. I noticed one thing, no one makes the new race harness belts. I guess we could make them ourselves if we wanted too though. Should not be that hard to do.
The new belts have a latch link about in the middle of the writing on those belts. In the real world it keeps the shoulder belts from sliding out to the edges of the shoulder so that the impact does not break your sternum. I never broke my sternum in a crash before these were available, but I sure bruised it up one night in a crash.
On all belts, the shoulder harness should be Y'ed in the back behind the seat. On this kind of belt, a lot of people miss it. Those to larger link pieces on the end of the shoulder belts should be on the lap belt. When you hit the release, that large belt release will fall and pull all the belts apart for a quick escape. They work the same way on the latch link belts too. Whoever designed it that way got it right.
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37 minutes ago, customline said:
Making them is not a problem. Reversing what has been done could be. Luckily, Andy weighed in before I got the whole mess painted and I heartily thank him for that. I would really appreciate somebody telling me just how these rear mounted traction bars work. What do they actually do to improve the situation.... and what situation?
That's a kind offer, Tom. I think I can fab something close with junk I have around here. My smooth, well-oiled-machine-like building technique has been blown up because I made some very bad assumptions, so my seat fabrication is now on hold until I can get the traction bar thing straight. If anyone has first hand knowledge of these strange traction devices I would appreciate your input. Pictures would be great.
It's not really a traction bar so to speak. As you launch a car the pinion climbs the ring gear, that's how you end up with a wheel stand on cars with too much rear traction, usually too much percentage weight to the rear. Anyways, when the axle rotates up the spring stops it at some point and if you could see it, the front segment of the spring looks like an S laid down on the side. All of a sudden that spring unwinds and jerks that axle back down. That's when it goes into wheel hop and the tires bounce up and down on the road and chirp and spin and lose traction. That bar is trying to prevent the axle wind up that turns into wheel hop. It's also going to try to pull the rear of the car down and that's not good cause you are actually unloading the rear tires by doing that.
If you put 4 scales under a car and raise the rear end with, say leaf spring shackles, the scales will show more weight on the rear tires than the front. Opposite if you lower the rear.
That's why they use forward facing ladder bars. They do two things at once. They try to raise the car up making weight shift to the rear at the same time using that leverage to push the tires into the track. Lower the front of the bar closer to the road for more traction and vice versa. 4 links work the same way, except you have two bars to adjust on each side. Lower bar is a big adjustment and the upper bar is a fine tuning adjustment. Upper bars have more mounting holes than the lower ones do too.
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Ron Coon has just about everything you need to build it into a dirt track car. Even has the correct wheels and header pipes.
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15 hours ago, DREAMSCALE CONCEPTS said:
Thanks! I had to extend the nascar frame right in front of the firewall almost a 1/4 inch on both sides with square plastic rod which I had to sand a lot to make it look like it was unchanged. I also removed some of the cage bars to make it era appear era correct. Also you will notice from the pictures that the rear wheel wells were cut down on the top some that the body would be at the correct stance that I wanted. About your engine and transmission position problem, when cutting to fit a frame to a body , always try cut the engine mounts off and move them back if it has them or use some small plastic rod too fabricate the motor mounts and trans mount. The engines in the old stockers always sat back in the engine bay to save them from front end impacts! Hope this helps you out a bit , thanks for your input.
Actually, the reason for setting the engine back is to put more weight on the rear tires and to save that right front. Makes it handle better. All the classes I ran under had a rule that the number 1 spark plug had to be in line with the LF ball joint of the car. That's as far back as they would let us set the engine back.
As for tires, Street stocks ran 255/60r15's Super Streets ran 275/60r15's and all the other cars except the ponies of course ran the dirt track tires, like Hoosier, American Racer, and such, usually no softer than a 55 I think it was on the RR if I recall correctly. Stocks and Streets ran a min. 4-inch ground clearance. This was through the late 70's, 80,s and 90,s here in Tn.
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Looks good. And yes, those over sized tires are a joke. No one ever ran anything that looked like that.
RANDY AYERS NASCAR MODELING FORUMS......
in WIP: NASCAR
Posted
Understood. And I agree, I don't do facebook anymore. Someone hacked my account. They asked for my dl and old credit card numbers and all sorts of stuff. Someone was sure trying to steal my identity. Must have thought I was stupid and would just turn over all that info. lol