seeker589
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Posts posted by seeker589
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Great build. Nice stance. Love the grill treatment. It is always great to see someone mess around with early designs.
Thanks for sharing!
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Great build! Love the Sticker-Bomb on the dash.
Thanks for sharing!
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When I grow-up - I wanna build like John!
Until then - I'll just drool over his builds.
John - this one is brilliant. In concept and execution.
Thanks for sharing!
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Right - that was your first build?!
Way too impressive! I Love it! You definately have a very good eye and mad skills! Thanks for sharing and keep it up.
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I left the body in the pond for 24 hours. With some mild toothbrush scrubbing - just about all the paint was off.
The body is primed and gassing out for color later this week or earlier next.
Thank you for all your help and advice!
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Wow!
That's some fantastic building! You've done a very nice job creating a very original design.
Thank You for sharing.
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What Mark says is totally correct.
I would like to add that if the color is a metallic - be careful. The shade of the color could very well change if you sand too deeply.
I have read many posts on clearing with Future floor wax/polish stuff- then polish sanding that after it hardens. Do some searches for the solution that suits you best and experiment.
I haven't used the Future solution - and am a little sceptical - but I am eager to try it due to some of the results that I have run accross on this board.
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As long as it takes Tim...I've had an MPC Fiero GT in the purple pond now for over a month
It hasn't adversely affected any styrene I've tried as of yet.
WOW!
What kind of paint are you trying to strip?
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Ok
I botched a paint job. I attempted to use Brake fluid as a stripping medium with little success.
So I went out and got some Purple Power and submerged the body in that. It is a Revell/Monogram '69 Six-Pack Super Bee molded in white.
The paint is a Camo Olive drab - I think it is by Krylon.
How long should it soak? Will the Purple Pond attack the plastic?
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You could always do white with grey or houndstooth inserts.
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Great looking build so far!
That orange isn't Hemi orange. Or is it? Did you paint it a darker color or have you weathered it to get it that way?
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And the beginnings of a beater, rat rod... '95 Toyota Supra????
You don't just think outside the box - you shead it up and burn it!
Outstanding!
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I can't believe I'm the first to post this today!
Happy
Father's
Day!
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Welcome, Tim! From a Tim.
I'm not too far from you in Lancaster. If you can get to a CPMCC (Central Pennsylvania Model Car Club) meeting in Mount Wolf on the first Saturday of every month - you will go back again.
I haven't been able to make it to a meeting in about 20 years. I should add I am getting back into building after about the same amount of time.
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Time spent on models...
...Hmmm. I spend about 5-15 hours on the bench every week. As was said previously - winter months are the prime time.
I may spend more time at the bench when I get a new tool or hobby gizmo. I've been spending too much time lately trying out different paints and things with my new compressor, paint booth and getting re-aquainted with my air brush.
There are so many things that pull us away from the bench. Children, work, family functions, enriching spousel relationships, car shows, other events, etc. All of these reasons are valid and very important. Model building helps us balance our lives - we cannot let our activities turn into obsession and throw our lives out of balance.
OK that was just too deep - just find your own balance.
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I just wanted spread some good news.
I have a 20 or so year old, Model 395 - type 3. The nylon coupler to the output shaft had sheared rendering the tool more of a wired paperweight.
I just called Dremel customer service (toll-free) and told them of my problem - without hesitation, Jamie(the cust. rep) said exactly what my problem was and offered to send me a replacement for $1.25 - I elected for two output collars (one for back-up). She then suggested that I also order the splined motor output shaft for a dollar. Since I was getting parts shipped - I figured "what the heck" and ordered that too.
For about $6.00 I will get all the parts to fix the tool and have some spares. They could have scalped me or told me that parts weren't available for a tool that old. Thay could have told me to go and get a new one.
She was very friendly. Outstanding service - successful company. I will be spreading the good name of Dremel around.
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Uber clean! Love it!
I was looking for a green that pops and sparkles - looks like I found it!
Thanks for sharing!
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I heard plain ol' water works.
Your kidding! Would water in a pump bottle work? Does it leave a cloud like the other stuff does when sprayed?
I have to try this!
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im really tired of paying 5 bucks for these little cans of spray paint. im trying to figure out what you guys are talking about here. are you buying these large cans of krylon and just using it outa the can? or you airbrushing? i would really like to find a can of 12 oz paint for 99 cents. )
so these 12 oz krylon fusion paints are the same price as the little modelmasters or testers 3 oz cans? you can use them the same way? right outa the can? they lacquers?
Rob - the Krylon or Rust-oleum 12oz cans are similar to the Testors enamels but not exactly the same. The Testors formulation (I'm assuming) is made specifically for plastics. The other 12oz enamels are formulated to go on just about anything. I use them because they are good enough and don't yet have my airbrush set up.
As far as for being lacquers or enamels - please read the label on the can. Lacquers should be well labeled.
I use 12oz name brand primer exclusively on models I have modified and used putty on. I've had good experience with Krylon and Rust-oleum products.
Go to your local Home Depot or Lowe's and spend some time reading the cans - they should say they can be used on plastics.
While I've never done it - I'm also assuming they can be decanted just like the smaller cans can.
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I use Krylon all the time, I think it is great paint.
Were you using regular Krylon or Krylon Fusion (the stuff for plastic)? Personally I don't really care for Krylon Fusion even though it is marketed for use with plastics.
Did you prime it first? I find it works much better over a good coat of primer. It can be a bit hot for bare plastic.
I as using regular Krylon. I was wondering about the Fusion stuff - I didn't get it because I was fearful of too much paint build -up.
I was shooting directly onto white plastic - which very well could have been my greatest problem.
Thank you everyone for your replies.
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OK -
I wanted some semi-gloss or satin or flat black for a build. I went out and found 12oz. Krylon indoor-outdoor satin black at Wallymart.
I tried to spray it on an interior tub and really didn't like the coverage. It's now soaking in brake fluid.
I then tried some Krylon black primer I had laying around on the underside of a hood and on some wheels - the coverage was great - the spray was predictable - after a few light coats the wheels look just like I wanted them.
What is the best 12 ounce spray bombs? Krylon - Rust-oleum - Valspar?
I like to use it for not-too detailed builds for chassis/interior, etc. I haven't quite progressed to detail painting of chassis.
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This is a very good example of how you need to use reference material - cause that's what the PROs use.
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I use this one as it is really quiet.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200354872_200354872
Works great with the tank.
I just ordered one! It was exactly what I wanted. Compressor with small tank and a regulator, with water trap. The price was reasonable, too. Just over $100 to my door.
I'm looking forward to exercising my airbrush rights!
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Cal, unfortunately not much audience here for sports car racing. Thanks for the update.
How do you think interest is created? Just cause people haven't watched a certain form of racing doesn't mean that they might not try something new. I think the drama of teams/drivers/cars in a 24 hour race is quite interesting.
All in all - racing is inspiring. From mud-bogs to F1 - we can all learn goal setting, patience, tragedy and triumph. Winning or losing is something we can all identify with.
Body types
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
I was under the impression that "Roadster" ment Removable windshield,soft-top and no roll-up side glass. Convertible (cabriolet) ment fixed windshield and roll-up side glass with a soft-top. Coupe means a tin roof with no B-pillar. Sedan - tin-top and B-pillar.
The current car manufacturers will use any name or tag-line they can to sell cars. I saw a full sized Buick hard top with one of those canvas add-on tops with the word "Roadster" plastered on the trunk. If the words "festering cow dung" would sell cars - they'd use it!
Good subject.
Liberally used - maybe.