Longbox55

Preiser figures can be found in the US, many model train stores carry them, especially if the have G scale trains. The Adams and Eves sets aren't too expensive, and tend to have much better detail than the standard Prieser figures, which have very good detail to begin with. As mentioned, they do require assembly and painting, and you will have to sculpt your own clothing on them, but there are many options on how they can be assembled, as there are extra arms and legs, plus the torsos are in different poses. It's basically a Mix-N-Match the parts to get the poses you want. For the regular Prieser figures, look for the unpainted sets. They run about half what the painted versions do, and realistically, they're mor elike one quarter the cost as they tend to have 6 figures instead of the normal 3 that are in Prieser sets.

Hhmmm. Read the article twice, never saw the first mention of the Viper .

You can cut up cured silicone into small peices to act as filler in non-crucial parts of the overall mold, which cuts down on how much fresh silicone you would need to use. Common practice by the big time casters to cut costs when a mold is retired.

Here's an easy retool one for Round 2/AMT. and one for Galaxie Limited. Perhaps one of these? Or maybe one these?

I'd drive it!

You can also use Scott's Blue shop towels as a substitute for coffee filters.

The Green Hornet Black Beauty is also available as a slot car in 1/32. I saw one when I was in Indy over the weekend.

No burnout pix from what I've seen (I haven't read the whole thing yet). I have noticed, though, that it also has dicolored chrome on the headers and a rock in the groove on the right rear cheater slick :o ! BTW, only the subscriber version has this car on the cover. The newstand edition has Carly Lyn Terrell in a '59 Chevy, who is also featured on pages 75-77, tats and all :o .

I disagree. I run my '55 Chevy with stock type rebuilt drum brakes as my daily driver, with an original style master cylinder. While the dual circuit does give a bit of extra safety (you will still loose the pedal if a line goes), it is not a "must have". Sock brkae serve just fine, even in todays traffic. Rebuild/repclace the master/wheel cylinder, install new friction, recondition/replace the drums, and replace all the stell and rubber lines, it'll be just fine.

Check out Patrick's Antique Cars for hop up parts for that old Chevy 6. http://patricksantiquecars.com/

I certainly wouldn't want oil near a paint booth either. I was only using the oil bath air filter as means of describing the operation of the water trap Gregory mentions. Same principle, only using water instead of oil.

I store mine in the garage. Mine is heated for winter (heat is only on when I'm working out there), but otherwise not climate controlled. Other than one resin body getting warped (a '55 Chevy conversion cab), I've had no issues with storing not only my kits, but also all of my paints and supplies in the garage.

I don't think thet Gragory intended to mean to force the air underwater, but rather a setup not unlike an old oil bath air filter, which would not impede the airlow very much at all.If you're unfamiliar with the oil bath air filter, it essentially works like this; The air enters the housing and is forced down to the the oil reservoir (obviosly water for the purpose of catching paint particle), then turned 180 degrees. The particles tend to not make the 180 degree turn, and are trapped in the oil. A mist of oil is stirred up, and is trapped on a wire mesh in the upper part of the filter housing, condensing on it and flowing back to the reservoir. It's actually a vry simple and effective form of filtration, though they are somewhat messy to service. They don't carry them anymore.

Colin, I was at Big 4 Hobbies in Plainfeld and the Hobbytown USA in Castleton..

I just picked up the Subaru version yesterday, and as posted, the only differences are the body parts that are Subaru specific and that the body is molded in blue instead of white. As mentioned, only the top part of the engine is present, but on the 1:1, that's all you can really see with the hood up anyway. I only have two gipes about the kit, one is the lack of seat backs (easy fix), the other is that it only has the RHD dashboard. Reading that the Aoshima kit is will the scion FR-S building option, I would take it that it will also have the LHD dash, since the Scion is only sold in North America.

Made a trip to Indy, hit the two main shops there, plus the Hobby Lobby in Laffeyette. Got the Revell GMC/snowplow, AMT Avanti, both AMT tire sets, Modeus 300, Tamiya Subaru BR-Z, AMT Munster Coach, and a Revell '37 Ford pickup. Also picked up a MCG items, styrene stock, and few Hot wheels I thought were cool. . I also picked up a Lego set for mt nephew, who's real big into Star Wars.

Re-reading the initial post, I beleive you're correct about that.

Actually, led lighting uses less power than incandescant lighting does, so the strain on the electrical system would be greatly reduced.

I agree. The H is virtually indestructable, easy to service, and easy to work with. I do have to disagree about the HF airbrushes. Their double action airbrush is a decent unit for the price. I use them without any issues.

Last year they did an Ecto-1 in roughly 1/43 scale. Looks like I'm going to pick this one up to go with it!

Exactly. While many judged car shows will give leeway for consumable items, such as tires and filters, or parts that cannot be seen, such as a Pertronicspoints eliminator, and perhaps different color paint as long as it's a factory color, restored means just that, returned to original condition. Once you start changing things, like different engines (a big block in a Z/28), wheels, tubbing,etc., it becomes modification. Granted, there are exptions, such as a car with a racing pedigree, or perhaps one used in a TV show or movie (actual car, not replica), and af course anything used as a commercial vehicle, which may require alterations to allow the vehicle to do its job. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with altering it if that's what you want to do, but you should use the correct term.

Why shouldn't Pickups be included in the Trucks section? Last I checked, Pickups are a type of Truck.

This one was at a local show I went to about a month ago. Under that chopped Stude cab is full IMSA stock car chassis, set up to outcorner, outbrake, and outrun any of those shiny trailer queens.

And here I thought I was the only one that did that!

The let shiny ones in, too . Here's a few pix of the show sponsors vehicles, the Georgetown Junk Yard dogs.