MrObsessive

Sorry about the multiple post...........:oops:.......I kept getting an error message (or something) when I tried to post the original.

I'd sooner replace the entire chassis with a more modern kits' version...........:wink: It would save a lot of work and maybe keep your sanity! Good example is Johan's '69 AMX ( a favorite of mine since I once owned a 1:1:))...............You can replace the chassis underneath that with ERTL'S newer '67 Mustang since the floor stampings and inner fenders are very similar. The only thing you'd have to do is shorten the chassis slightly because of the AMX'S shorter wheelbase. As Mark said, if it's going to just be a shelf model, I'd simply spray the chassis flat black, pick out the details and move on!:mrgreen:

I'd sooner replace the entire chassis with a more modern kits' version...........:wink: It would save a lot of work and maybe keep your sanity! Good example is Johan's '69 AMX ( a favorite of mine since I once owned a 1:1:))...............You can replace the chassis underneath that with ERTL'S newer '67 Mustang since the floor stampings and inner fenders are very similar. The only thing you'd have to do is shorten the chassis slightly because of the AMX'S shorter wheelbase. As Mark said, if it's going to just be a shelf model, I'd simply spray the chassis flat black, pick out the details and fuggedaboutit!! :mrgreen:

I'd sooner replace the entire chassis with a more modern kits' version...........:wink: It would save a lot of work and maybe keep your sanity! Good example is Johan's '69 AMX ( a favorite of mine since I once owned a 1:1:))...............You can replace the chassis underneath that with ERTL'S newer '67 Mustang since the floor stampings and inner fenders are very similar. The only thing you'd have to do is shorten the chassis slightly because of the AMX'S shorter wheelbase. As Mark said, if it's going to just be a shelf model, I'd simply spray the chassis flat black, pick out the details and fuggedaboutit!! :mrgreen:

Test.....................

I'd sooner replace the entire chassis with a more modern kits' version...........:wink: It would save a lot of work and maybe keep your sanity! Good example is Johan's '69 AMX ( a favorite of mine since I once owned a 1:1:))...............You can replace the chassis underneath that with ERTL'S newer '67 Mustang since the floor stampings and inner fenders are very similar. The only thing you'd have to do is shorten the chassis slightly because of the AMX'S shorter wheelbase. As Mark said, if it's going to just be a shelf model, I'd simply spray the chassis flat black, pick out the details and fuggedaboutit!! :mrgreen:

Alex, I love the way you do your body work...everything comes out nice and straight! 8) Clever idea for the inner fenders..................I have to try that! BTW, what kind of putty are you using? Most putties I've seen have a greenish/blue appearance.

That sounds great Lyle! I'll be there!

A pic I swiped off eBay gave me a general look at how the rear tailgate area should look. I also have a dealer brochure which helps a lot for this area. Here's a pic I took at a local car show a while back at how the hinge looks for the tailgate. Actually, this hinge is off a Dodge Caliber....because there were no Dodge Magnum Wagons at the new car show surprisingly enough! They both use the same style hinge as the leading edge of the tailgate turns inside the roof. Since this is a model I'm building and not the real deal, I need to come up with something more simplified so I don't lose more hair at the top of my head! I grinded away at the leading edge of the opening to make room for the tailgate to turn inwards........I then made a new support for it. I then made hinge retainers made from .050 round Plastruct Styrene Rod. This doesn't have to be perfect because it will be hidden somewhat by the inner tailgate panel in the end. I just need something to hold the brass rod in place for the tailgate to operate correctly. I also don't want the details to be overly obvious as I'm trying to keep some scale fidelity here. BTW, to glue the hinge retainers, I used Ambroid Pro Weld. Once the hinge retainers were set in place, I marked off where I wanted to drill the holes in the support. Some trial and error was needed here as I can never get the holes drilled just right the first time. I had to approximate where the opening of the hinge retainers would be since the panel is in the way. Okay! Looks like we're getting somewhere! You can see the L-shaped brass rod holding the retainers and going through the support. When I get to final assembly, I'll epoxy the pins into the support and cut off the excess flush inside. Here's how the tailgate should open per the 1:1................It's opening and closing so far without any binding or scraping so it's all good! The panel is fitting flush so far with the bodywork. I test fit the inner tailgate panel and it fits without raising the outside panel above the bodywork. Next on the agenda is to make working struts like the 1:1 using brass tubing and steel rod. Some soldering will be involved here as the end to hold up the panel will need a retainer soldered on it. Stay tuned!

No, it's for smashing it to bits in case it won't go together properly! My work table is a little more cluttered since taking that pic..........but it's still essentially the same. My old computer is sitting where the tool box and mini drill press were.............until I can get rid of it! :roll:

Here's some pics of my work area................. I have a 3 bedroom house so since I have no wife or kids, I use the front bedroom for my workshop. I originally thought about making the third floor my work area, but the central air ducts don't go up there for the heat of the summer! :shock: This was taken about 6 months or so ago when I was still building my '59 Buick. My ever present "assistant" Captain...............I have another cat, but he's so aloof he could care less about being in the pic. I'm also into RC planes and helicopters-------I haven't flown this one yet as it needs servos and a radio, but the engine runs. Down the road, I'm going to build some wooden shelves to display the built stuff. I have lots of room to expand! All of my unbuilt stuff is in the basement...........still in the storage boxes I moved them in. I'll leave them that way since my house is in a flood plane so in case there's a chance of flooding, I can easily move them upstairs.

Lee, try here............... He may have what you need. :wink:

Japan's Camaro! And I love 'em! Too Bad Nissan never saw fit to export those here............... Looks good so far Chris.........keep us posted!

Larry, I would buy a case of each of those if they kitted 'em!!! One can never have enough kits of vintage Ferraris!

:D Yeah, it just ain't a girl car unless it's got "Dagmars"!. :mrgreen:

Charlie, Modelhaus makes the '61 Olds, but it's only the convertible. I have a 2 door hardtop I think was cast by R@R. Here are a couple pics........... To order 'em just check with this guy.

Not much into street rods, but I like the looks of that! Ditto about the redlines-------that really makes the car, especially with those wheels! 8)

Here is the next car in my lineup of builds...................an '06 Dodge Magnum SRT-8 by Revell. This color looks to be Inferno Red Crystal Pearl, so that's the color that mine'll be. I won't add the "window shades" as that to me makes a cars styling look "busy"------so I'll leave that detail off. This pic was taken off a past eBay auction as this particular car provided a lot of nice reference photos for the build. Hmmm................the body is not as well made as it could have been-------where you see the black markings is where there are (to me) noticeable sink marks. These will have to be sanded and or filled. The entire body to my view needs a good block sanding to get rid of the roughness that it seems to have. This is especially the case around the door seams which have a "trough" around them. I'm going to reengineer the rear opening here somewhat to make room for scratchbuilt struts for the opening hatch. Likewise there needs to be room for the hinges themselves per the 1:1. The plastic hinge here will be cut off and replaced with more prototypical hinges per the 1:1. I really don't care for plastic hinges in any model except when nothing else will do------I don't like how this one makes the panel open and swing above the body whereas the 1:1 panel's leading edge turns inside the body. I'm eventually going to cut this molded in mesh out and replace it with stainless honeycomb screen that I picked up at my local train shop. I couldn't resist it..................I mocked up the wheels and tires already! I think Revell goofed in the kits tires as the profile is a bit too tall for a SRT-8. It appears they modeled the tires for the regular RT version which has the taller profile tires unless you opt for the "Performance Group" which you get the thin profile tires. The tires I'm using here came from the rears of the C6 Corvette kit-------hats off to Ismael Gonzalez for giving me the extra tires I needed! Sooooo......stay tuned for more as I'm off this week------I'm gonna start on filling in the sinks and such. After the bodywork is done I'll start on the engine and chassis. I'm going to reverse things somewhat as the body painting will be one of the last things I do. I want to make sure that everything fits properly with no drama! :mrgreen: Thanks for lookin'!

Great and funny post!! Thanks for the heads up!

Absolutely Stunning Mark! I'm also jealous because I could never get the Pocher Mercedes I have done that quickly! 8)

I have to be careful when using alcohol around my clearcoated surfaces.......:shock: since I use Tamiya's water based clear X-22. Alcohol will take the Tamiya's clear clean off so I work very slowly (and carefully!) when cleaning up epoxy off windshields.

Hi Tim, Just plain 'ol Isopropyl Alcohol was used to clean up the epoxy. Now mind you, the windshield is acetate and not styrene...................clear styrene may fog up if certain kinds of alcohol are used but I've never run into that problem either. The wax is the standard wax I use when polishing the body....................Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax. I soaked a Q-Tip in alcohol to rub the inside of the glass-------- the epoxy should loosen up and peel off. The wax is used to make everything all shiny and pretty afterwards. :mrgreen:

Close but no cigar................stay tuned!.....................And thanks!

The color coats on the body are 1966 Chrysler Turbine Bronze (Dupont Acrylic Enamel) which was mixed at a local paint jobber called B.A.P.S. It was put it an aerosol, and I then transferred it to an airbrush jar and sprayed it with my Badger Crescendo. The clearcoat is Tamiya water based acrylic X-22, which also had to be airbrushed after thinning it down a bit with their thinner. After this was sufficiently dry.........I rubbed out the clearcoat with Detail Master polishing cloths (3600-12,000 grit) and waxed with Meguair's Car Cleaner Wax. Thanks for asking!

MENACING!! I love it! The stance is perfect!