LR3

Nobody's perfect. By the way Cato I used to listen to the Green Hornet on radio in the late 30's - you can't be that old. Ah - ran into a little problem trying to place the reflective mylar on the hood. Hard to get it to stay flat as you insert it into the back end. When it touches the plastic that is all she wrote. Missed position by about an 1/8th. If you haven't installed it yet you also need to make a template of the front curves in that area. As usual I assumed it was cut to fit already like everything else in this model - mistake. Had to try to cut around the curves as the mylar was already sticking. Arrgh.

Gave a gasket some thought and decided my hand was not steady enough to paint it. Even though it is glued in the windshield will pop out I am sure (it already has more than once). I hadn't thought of using a sharpie to do the gasket until just now. I may give that a try tomorrow. I was hoping no one would comment on the lack thereof. Funny how you can pretend to ignore troublesome areas. When I am finished I will take a shot from farther back to give a better depth of field. I just wanted to see how the tape would react to the complexity of the roof.

I am going to miss the stories on this thread when I finish up. Trying blue racing stripes with thin plastic tape due to my lack of finish painting skills.

Looking at the oil coolers - it looks like they have a fitting at the top for the left cooler only. They are just letting the right one sit untended. I saw one reference photo that showed some other container on the right side next to the cooler with a line from the cooler to it but I could not see where it went from there. With my leaving the right hand pumps in place I would not have room for it but others might if you have any reference photo for that area.

Good idea to move the pumps out to a mounting plate Cato. I just don't have the energy to take the cab off and try to remove the pumps. I tried various tricks to solve the problem. I used wire flex to jump over the fire wall sill to feed the parallel pumps. I tried tubing for connections to the pump going to the filter. Painted one line aluminum to simulate flex. Now I see that I also have to paint the feed line (since been done.) I used an R B Motion AN connector to hook up the wire flex from the filter to the carb. I think anyone being serious with this model might wind up using #4 flex from Detail Master and either Detail Master or R B Motion AN connections for a clean hookup to all the fuel items. I tried white glue to mate the kit AN connections to their woven flex. It did not wick and looked great but in handling them during hookup I managed to part all the connections.

Trying to see through objects it looks like the outboard pump is in parallel as stated to the middle pump. The middle pump looks to feed the inboard pump in a connection with the tank then the inboard pump goes to the filter. Frankly too complicated with the little room available so I will basically repeat the model instructions. Now I wonder why my pumps are located so low as seen in the following picture on the left? The picture on the right is from the Trumpeter display. The pumps there are about a quarter inch plus higher giving access to the pump connections. Cato - are yours like either of these placements? Also notice the neat display AN to flex line mating. I wonder if he mounted the connections then mated the flex? If I was to make this model again (can't afford to) I would use RM Motion or Detail Master AN connections as the flex is then inserted inside the connector. You can see there are three input holes for the filter so someone could bring a fuel line from the righthand side to the filter. (not covered in the instructions).

Good info. Wasn't thinking about the two tanks so two set of pumps. At my age the brain slips a cog now and then. I think Trumpeter might have tried to simplify things. They plumb from a tank to the inboard pump on the left side then to the fuel filter. The out board pumps are fed from the tank and have parallel in and out but then go nowhere I can see. The right hand combination is the same but does not pass over to the filter that I can see. Not much room to play around in there.

Thanks - think I will give tubing a try. All six of these pumps can't be fuel related? Can you give a run down on function? Would be nice to find an 1/8th scale Cobra kit wouldn't it?

Interesting problem. A fuel hose has to come from the plate above the tank to the bottom of the first fuel pump on the left. Then the line continues to the bottom of pump 2. The cab bottom covers the lower pump inlet of number 1. Not much room down there. Seems like this area requires a notch, hole or I guess a non perfect modeler like me could just poke hoses behind the bulk head as no one can see this lower inlet. Any ideas? Another problem is the wicking of CA glue down the woven line when trying to attach AN connections. Would white glue be a solution? The lines become stiff with the wicked glue.

Oh my Gosh - that is some clean machine. If I had that I would not get out of it long enough to build models. If I was 40 years younger ----- would I have fun.

Cato - post some shots of your 1:1 cobra, would love to see it. Doors - would have liked to fill in the bubble depression but I am not qualified to paint bodies so didn't. Won't drill the hub either - remember this is a fake from Rodeo Drive! Got the little pieces back on, added the doors and bolted the cab down. Need to add water bottle for windshield washer and maybe I can think of some other street goodies?

Cato - thanks for the suggestion to stuff the brake cooling tubes with cotton so they would not collapse with the required bend. They sure do w/o cotton. I had to chop 3/8" off the tubes to make the turn seem reasonable. Also had to remove the wheels for better access and a few details got knocked around like the windshield wiper and front air dam while handling. Had a problem installing the rack and pinion. Could not handle all the mating surfaces while trying to assemble. The kit was limited on this detail - finally figured out where it went but could not get the steering wheel shaft-rotor to stay where I think it aught to go as there seemed to be too much interference. Finally just jammed everything about where it should go and decided the model will not be steerable.

Nope - just a rattle can of silver leaf I happened to have. - Thanks for the tip on the hoses. I had tried bending them just for kicks and saw how they would collapse. I was wondering how to handle that. AND like Jim says - I am learning a lot about this car. I just got the model because it looked like it had a lot of details to play with. Jim - what is holding you back from building the model seeing as a copy resides on your shelf? I looked at your gallery and you really are into detail with those tiny cars. I can barely handle 1/12 and may have to go back to 1/8 after this so the parts are big enough to get ahold of.

Two questions. What function does the dish around the carburetor perform - not the Venturi at the top but the bowl under? AND where do you fill the cooling system with water?

Nor did I buy the KA set. The model is the most detailed I have ever purchased and a joy to build if you don't mind stripping the chrome off half the set. I can't visualize what the model would look like if built as produced. Maybe it would look great. That was a good idea Cato had to scuff up some of the chrome to change it's look. I just never thought of that. By the way - what function does the dish around the carburetor perform - not the Venturi at the top but the bowl under?

While waiting for some front end things to dry I thought I would follow your example Cato and add brake lines to the back where they would be much more visible than on the front. Used thin black tube as the the small braid that I have is what I used for oil lines and I hoped the black would look smaller. This and the throttle return spring are about the only easy add ons I have found so far ( although the garbage disposal ate my oil filler assembly so I had to scratch build a replacement.) Looking forward to adding the carb and fuel lines this week. I can see why you guys that are familiar with this car complain about the thickness of the suspension but I don't think I would want to deal with thinner plastic while handling the model.

Sharing the thread is fine. Keeps everything in one place and I like the help. Now I have to study what you have done and see what I can apply. We are looking for different finishes for different car styles.

Thanks - Great detail reference photo!!

DARN! At least they could have moved the faux mounting bolt line inboard the correct amount. Seems like it will be mounting on air. Guess I will have to leave the gap. Hey Cato - The rings on the cowl have indent holes instead of bolt heads. I don't see where they will be filled later on. Why can't I drop bolt heads in these holes? Something coming later I have missed??

Cato - did you have to cut a diagonal off this piece of PE to fit the front section? I must be doing something wrong because PE should be detail accurate.

Thanks for the heads up. I found both the front and rear suspension slightly fidgety and added a drop of glue to the bottom arm connection on each. The rear suspension is a delight. Doubt I will want to cover it up. Have to wait and see. Sure was a lot of parts from which to strip chrome. What was Trumpeter thinking? The only thing better than this kit would be a TDR 1/8 chassis and engine/trans axel.

How do you access the 1:1 Reference section?

Thanks for the suggestions. I tired a pin Cato, then figured I could flatten a small styrene square rod to do the job. What the heck, painted black they all but disappear except thanks for the suggestion of gloss black you can make them out better than the photo shows. I can't believe there were fuzes as big as those tubes. Must be European? Any glass fuze I ever had was maybe a little over an inch in length. Could not think of a way to rid the silver bezels for the gauges.

Cato - how did you make the toggles for the dash switches? The kit I have just has slight bumps there. I really don't like the silver bezel around the air vent nor the two round vents. I am going to make the rim of the large vent black and blacken the two round ones. They really sick out.

Unfortunately it is an old Austin Healey 100 but for my last year in college I thought it was pretty hot and I don't think it was much taller than 40".