MILD

http://streetmachinemag.typepad.com/.a/6a00d834540dd169e20133f52c7853970b-pi Apologies for being so slow off the mark this month but I think the wait is worth it! This is the third build of this car for Peter Fitzpatrick but by far the most extensive. A twin turbo 440cube Chevy small block puts it's power down through a Powerglide and Ford nine inch combo. The whole deal sits on a tubular chassis and so much of the detail in the body isn't obvious at first glance. The entire floor pan in straight and built with the exhaust in mind which is tucked tight to the underside of the car without anything being out of place or creating an eye sore. I'll leave you guys to check over the pictures and decide for yourself whether we know how to bolt a car together down here or not!

Gentlemen- after a handful of problems getting my hands on some real BMF I thought it was worth tracking some down whilst interstate. In the whole town, only one hobby shop had it in stock and they were asking a lot for it. Instead I held out and it was by pure chance while in an electronics store I can across some aluminium foil tape. The roll is 50mm wide and a whopping 50metres long- at $17AUD that's a whole lot cheaper than BMF. It is listed as 40microns however when we measured it it did come in ever so slightly thicker. I used it to foil a logo on the top of a jar lid and it seems to be more than appropriate for modelling. Has anyone used it before and with any kind of success? The particular brand I got was Duratech although I did find this link - http://www.electrotape.com/aluminum-foil-tape/aluminum-foil-tape-500.html For those on a budget or unable to get their hands on the real mccoy this might be an option. For the Australian readers the tape is readily available at Jaycar. Thanks.

I simply love that colour. It reminds me of so many old street machines I saw at shows growing up. So cool.

I think I use The Workbench as it was intended, but maybe I was wrong. My work is far from advanced or worthy of entertaining or even interesting 99% of posters on this board. I post my mundane pics or my mundane subjects to get constructive criticism. I actually post to get advice and to improve my modeling. Further to that, I post to document my own progress so I can look back on what I did right and what I did wrong. Yes- I could have a document saved to my computer that I only access offline but then I would miss out on feedback from you guys and maybe, just maybe, another junior modeler could learn from my mistakes. So far so good. I have received some great feedback and those people not interested in anything but elite level builds have stayed out and reserved their time for looking at what interests them. Everyone wins. Unfortunately, I don't often update as often as I'd like. Typically this is due to having a demanding job that requires extensive travel and a young family. Now I tick two boxes- I'm a talentless hack who rarely updates my threads I'd like to counter the OP's suggestion with one of my own- how about a little self moderation? If the thread doesn't interest you, click right on by. I purposely stayed out of the drama created in various threads here during my short tenure that resulted in bickering and really achieved nothing. I also felt the removal of the rants and raves board was a move in the right direction. Regardless it seems some people- rather than changing their own behaviour- need to focus on making everyone else conform to their standard. I am hoping that I haven't been drawn into the web of negativity the aforementioned threads create (not necessarily this one, although it have come awfully close). I guess it is now time for me to practice what I preach and also self moderate so that I can come here to learn, view some spectacular works that inspire and talk models. Not bicker about politics, how everything is wrong and go out of my way to stroke my own ego. Apologies for the meandering rant. I hope I made some kind of sense.

Yup- it was Angie. I was sure to send her an email thanking her for the efforts- it's the very least I could do. That kind of service is absolutely worth it's weight in gold.

Apologies for the resurrection of an old thread but I think credit should be shared where credit is due. I recieved the part in the mail yesterday- safely boxed and in perfect condition. Big thanks to Revell for making it happen!! I was sure to forward a thank you email to the person who helped me through. Something to keep in mind for Australian modellers- it looks like we too can use this excellent service.

I think you are being a touch hard on yourself mate. Remember to relax and enjoy your build- you don't want to put too much pressure on yourself or else the enjoyment will evaporate and you'll pull the pin before you improve. Keep at it mate! I actually enjoy looking over my other complete model. It reminds me of the errors I made and also what I am doing better this time around. Enjoy what you do and the skill will come. Pressure will make you nervous to try new things and that is no way to progress. Can't wait to see your next effort.

Great work so far and terrific thread. I love seeing the amount of effort some of you guys put in and the warts and all pics really show what it takes to get high level results. Amazing. And I love your sanding sticks. I am stealing that idea!

I bluffed it a bit with my hinges on this model. I glued them to the hood and left them unattached at the body. This way I can display hood down, hood up (using a support strut to hold in place) or hood off. It doesn't really answer the question, but I believe they were intended to be used as such? The underside of the hood did have the area for them to be glued to marked- if I remember correctly there is a the outline of where they should go for alignment purposes.

Is this the Revell Special Edition 2 in 1?

While it wouldn't be my first choice of colour, that's a very nice shine it has. It looks like a lot of effort went into laying that paint down and a job very well done.

Looks like a very detailed kit- I might have to give something like this a try next I think. It will be interesting to see how the build goes.

Condolences Don.

I have a rule with eBay- I enter the most I would be prepared to pay for it (never equal to retail, always lower) and walk away. Sometimes I snap a bargain, often I lose out which results in the LHS getting a sale but I never, ever lose sleep over eBay auctions. Granted though I am not a collector searching for rare items, but even still I think the above would apply.

Just to keep everyone posted, today Irecieved a email from Revell asking for photos of the damaged item and a few scans from the instructions along with a barcode. From the sounds of things they'll be placing a replacement in the post shortly. Great service and very surprised, impressed and relieved that I don't have to struggle to track down a replacement. Good show!

Absolutely Donald. I hardly believe there is anything in modelling that is one size fits all so to speak. On thing I discovered was you really need to make sure the Blu Tac has a good hold- no one likes lost bits and pieces! As for where to get it, Blu Tac is readly available at anything from News Agencies to department stores here in Australia. It's most commonly used for sticking posters and the like to walls. I'd suggest you shouldn't have too many dramas finding a similar product. The kit is so far great to build- however I noticed I have a cracked windshield. I am in the process of tracking a replacement now but other wise I'll either try and disguise it or resign myself to buying another kit and stashing the left overs for a later project...junk yard 150 perhaps?

I like to brace both my hand holding the brush and hand holding the piece against the table. It stops the shakes. Similar to shortening the brush, I hold it very very close to the bristles.

Mate it's for the Revell 57 Chev Black Widow 2 in 1 one Special Edition. If you could help at all that would be awesome!

Whoops- might be a bit late for that... and I don't really fancy paying another $40 for a windshield and some parts I may never use. Worst case I'll try and bluff my way into hiding the cracks. Thanks for the reply.

G'day guys- I am interested to hear from people outside of Canada and the US who have tracked down replacement items through Revell's customer service. I searched the site without luck, and when filling out the order form there is no option to ship to Australia. I have emailed Revell and am hoping something can be worked out. The part in question is the front windshield which has cracked from both top corner inwards (pretty hard to disguise The clear tree containing the part is still sealed in the original bag. If I had to guess I would say that it was crushed beneath the other sprues in packing. I guess that's another lesson learnt- inspect the sprues before you begin! I only noticed it because I went looking for the decal sheet. Bugger. I'll be shattered (har har) if I can't get something sorted.

I have recently been looking at the very same item. I can't wait to hear how you get on with it.

I was quite tempted to get the florists foam but given I was brush painting figured the packing foam was more than good to go. I will definitely track down a block for spray painting though. Davyou5- the only problem I found with painting on the sprue was the touch ups once you remove it and all the missed mould lines etc. I may just be me, but I prefer to run my fingers over the parts and give them a real good inspection before and after paint. So far I am happy with how much cleaner those details are with this build. Thanks for the comments gents.

Before you ask- yup I'm going to number each of my builds I am going to build this one pretty much as an out of box replica of the race car. I understand the model is hamstrung by some historical inaccuracies and I won't be going out of my way to sort these out. I may make a few little changes along the way to accentuate certain parts of the car. I guess we can put this one in the 'over restored' category then I apologise in advance for the mundane nature of the thread, however hopefully you guys can help improve my skills with your critiques. Building my Impala taught me a few things that I have already put into practice for this build. The first thing is to test fit parts! I taped up the tub and fit the body over the chassis to make sure everything is snug- so far so good. With my first car I painted most small parts on the sprue. This lead to a few dramas with cleaning parts so I decided to try something new. I used cut down skewers, Blu Tac and some packing foam. A nice cheap option- you just need to make sure you've got the parts nicely fixed to the skewer or you'll lose something I spent a lot of time sanding down mould lines and casting imperfections and fixed them to the skewer at the same point they attach to the model. A paint free join should lessen a fair amount of the heartache I had last time! While I was prepping the parts I sanded back the moulded script off the rocker covers to use the supplied decals. I'm going to finish the power plant on Sunday night before looking at the interior tub. Rather than brush paint, I think this time I will be spraying it with Tamiya's Semi Gloss Black and won't be flocking the floors. As I understand it the real car had rubber flooring which the moulding seems to represent. Thank you for looking in.

To chip in my two cents, the only show I've been to actually broke it down into classes rather than scales. If I remember correctly it was civil vehicles, civil competition vehicles and heavy civilian vehicles. The show ran from armour through to wargaming so it was quite diverse. Only problem I saw was all the 1:25 muscle cars competing against a scratch built wooden Model T that looked 1:8th or thereabouts. A very, very different type of craftsmanship.

Hahaha. It's all good lads.