CrewDawg15

Not knowing if it is a domestic, or Japanese kit it's hard to say. But from the description, it sounds like a Dodge Stealth. The AWD Nissan chassis utilize strait 6 engines...the Mitsubishi/Dodge GTO/Stealth utilized an AWD V-6 platform. Jimmy

Nice start on this one. As far as the intake goes...you could do as above...or, you could use the situation a as an excuse to go wild with the motor. You could go with a custom tubular manifold, individual throttle bodies, or the tried and proven triple sidedraft carbie setup. Googling Toyota 5M-GE engine could give you some inspiration Keep up the great work! Jimmy

Well Jason, they are not Weber carbs...they're Mikuni/Solex 40PHH Type T on the Toyota motors, and 44PHH Type S (standard Nissan OEM replacemnt carbs) on my OS motor. They are resin copies of my own master. I'll eventually get around to making Weber DCOE sidedrafts, and IDF downdrafts as I have a few projects planned that will require those carbies. All of the engines I post are scratchbuilt by me. Please overlook the top set of carbs...they were an earlier attempt at making them. I wanted to show the evolution of my fabrication work. Unfortunately, Uncle Sam decided to take away my summer vaction, and temporarily relocate me from tropical Okinawa Japan, to not so tropical Anchorage Alaska I should be back sometime next month if you are interested. Also, I thought I'd post up a few of my in-progress 4 bangers: Nissan CA18DET Nissan SR20DET Mitsubishi 4G63 Jimmy

Some Really great builds being posted up here.... ...Dave, that Rav4 is insane, and Scale Master, I love the Opel GT ! This thread is right up my alley. Here's some of my scratch built engines: OS Giken TC16-MAII (Datsun/Nissan L18 based block) Some of my Toyota "T" block engines (2T-G, 2T-C), and a 22RE (Celica/truck) There are a lot more in the works...I just havn't finished fabricating them up yet. Jimmy

I was really looking forward to getting back to do some more shopping, but was really dissapointed when a lot of my usual model shops were closed down, or had quit selling car kits alltogether Plus, the price of kits have nearly doubled...what used to cost 1000 to 2000 yen now costs 2600 to 4000 yen. Also, when I left, it was 138 yen to the dollar. Now I'm lucky to get 83 yen for my dollar I'm not too sure how the styling is going to be just quite yet. My friend is still making up the build list. I figured I'd get a head start on the motor in the meantime. I got a bit more done today. I fabbed up the valve cover, and timing chain cover...just the oil pan is left for the main parts. I made it so you could see the coil packs...that is when I get around to making them . I didn't get all of the ribbing detail on the timing chain cover, but I feel that the effect is still funcional. Here's what I've got so far: I still have more detail to add to the components. I'm just doing a little bit at a time so I don't get burned out Thanks for looking.

It's a Fujimi Evo VIII. I picked up in Japan the last time I was stationed here about 8 years ago. I couldn't have an engineless Evo, so I whipped up a 4G63 engine, tranny, and transfer case assembly for it. Unfortunately, I lost enterest in it so it's been boxed for about 4 years now. Thanks Brad and Jeff, I'll try to do it justice. Of course the style is not really me, but I'm helping someone else's dreams become a reality. Thanks for looking. Jimmy

Almost all of the kits I have are Japanese curbsides with no engine detail. rather than settle for that I decided to start making my own engines. I make mainly Nissan and Toyota engines since they make up a majority of my kit collection. Also, what I make is not readily available in scale form. Here's a few that I have fabbed up in the past: I built this motor from scratch from Evergreen styrene Rod, sheet, and quarter round using a factory service manual and numerous pics I got off of the net. Also, I'm lucky enough to take a few snaps and measurements of my friend's real car. Thanks Mike and Dave, it's good to be building again

It's been a while since I've had a project on the table...of course packing everything up and moving to the other side of the world has played a role in that As some of you guys that know me know that I'm not satisfied with a plain jane build. I love converting curbside kits into almost full detailed models....especially Fujimi kits. They are not the best on the market, but they make the subjects I like to build. By the time I get done with them, they are usually 20% Fujimi, and 80% Me...that's how I got the nickname FuJimmy. A few months ago, I took my Fairlady roadster model to work to set up on my desk. A friend of mine was so impressed with the work that he asked me to replicate his own car...a Nissan 180SX. He has a lot of plans for it and wants me to build it to look like it will be once he's all done with all the work. I agreed, and ordered a Fujimi 180SX off of Amazon Japan (I do love being back over here ) I then got started on the engine...Nissan's very popular SR20DET. I decided to make my own since I only have two choices when it comes to the scale versions: Aoshima's top half SR20 from one of their Silva kits, or the Parts Box resin engine...IMO, both are horrible when it comes to accuracy and looks. Plus, I needed another engine to add to my growing collection of scratch built Mitsubishi, Nissan, and Toyota engines Enough of my ramblings, and on to the progress so far: Block: Short block assembly: ...and how it fits so far in the car: Still a lot more to do the short block assembly before I'm completely happy with it. I'm just curently fabbing up the major components of the engine before adding in the final details. Thanks for looking. Jimmy

This looks better and better each time you update Luis. I know what you mean by the exhaust...I had the same problem when I made the 'Lady. I wanted a stock sleeper look so I just fabbed up a crossover pipe off the header, keeping the rest of the exhaust in it's stock location. Anyways, keep up the great work and good luck at the show Jimmy

Just like Greg said....I've moved so much since I've been in the Air Force. From Eglin AFB, Fl to Kadena AB Okinawa Japan. From Okinawa to RAF Lakenheath, UK. From Lakenheath to Tyndall AFB, Fl...and that's not counting the moves I've made for technical training. And my latest move...from Tyndall back to Kadena AB, Okinawa Japan. My collection has followed me the whole way. Now that I think of it...my kits have litterally been around the world. Jimmy

While I'm not a fan of CF, it does look good Luis. Is that Modellers CF? The weave looks good. If so I might have to pick more up when I get back across the pond. Jimmy

I should have checked here first...I asked the flocking question in the SPC thread I like the MS flocking and you cannot beat the price. I just bought up a bunch to pack way with my modeling supplies. Looks really good Luis Jimmy

Like I've said before Luis...great build. It would be a perfect candidate for the JDM community build. Jimmy

I'm a firm believer of trying to get it right, and not giving up until your happy. I love to scratchbuild especially engines. As far as the turbo pinto mill, do as much as you'd like. But if a lot of it won't be seen, maybe build a separate motor for display out of the car if the contest allows. That way all of you could show off your handywork for all to see Jimmy

Very cool. It reminds me of something I would see in CarToons magazine when I was a kid. Great save! Jimmy

Nice little pony you've got there. The owner should be proud of it. Jimmy

I love it!!! I Need to get my hands on one of these. My first car was a '67 Custom 500... This car's cheaper brother

Beautiful build. That paintwork is a work of art

Thanks guys. IMO, there's no such thing as a stupid question. Nissan made the Datsun roadster in 3 different models: 1.1500, 2. 1600, and 3. 2000 in both left and right hand drive versions. The target markets were of course Japan, and North America where they were converted to very popular road racers. As far as I know, not many made it to Europe. Today, these cars bring a huge premium in Japan. The demand for these are so high that a lot of the U.S. versions get imported back to Japan by restorers and collectors.

Thanks guys! I'll definitely have some fun there. I first went there on a 2 year tour, and ended up staying 7 I didn't want to leave but once they found out I was running for mayor, the Air Force said I had to go... It does have a pretty cool car culture, but its a small island and old cars rust fast there. I never really got into the drift scene...I like keeping my car intact. This is how I usually build my cars...not too flashy, but built for speed

This build has made a couple of milestones for me: 1.I finally completed a build...the last one being over four years ago 2. it's the fastest build I've done since I was a teenager. I tried to pack as much detail as I could in this tiny package: The engine is a resin copy of my scratch built master of an OS Giken TC-16MAII The engine bay is 98% Scratchbuilt...I did used the kit's radiator The fuel and brake systems are fully plumbed Porsche seats, with scratch built seat belts made out of styrene and ribbon Vintage Okinawa Number plate to reflect the mods done to it...the original small number should have been a 5 (3 reflects the body and engine mods done which places it in a higher road tax class) While the color is not what I had originally wanted, it has started to grow on me. I wish I had more time to do more to it, but I have to start packing up. I'm going back to Okinawa Japan (for 11 years total)...my final tour before I retire....Thank You Uncle Sam!!!

Lookin good Luis. That chassis looks like its been Rhino lined...no rust worms penetrating that

Yeah you've gotta watch out for Halfords clear. Halfords sprays were my paint of choice while I was living in the UK...you couldn't beat the price compared to Tamiya. I had it happened to me a few times before I wised up. I would do test sprays on scrap bodies. If they yellowed, I bought another can and used the yellowing can on darker colored paints where it wasn't as noticeable. You cold try taking the body and paint back to the Halfrauds you bought it from. The body would prove the clear is defective and maybe get a refund or exchange...just look for a can with a different lot number stamped on it. Jimmy

Nice to see this one finally finished Tareque. I know it's been a long road traveled with this one...well worth the wait Jimmy

Too bad about the paintwork. It does sound like your holding the can too close or spraying a heavy coat. Just like mopar01lee said, spray in light coats. Also remember that your spraying a metallic color. If you spray the coats too heavy, the metallic particles will have a tendency to pull away from sharp edges like door and panel lines. Keep up the good work, I'll be watching this one Jimmy