Dys

For those that are using 3D printed tires on their models, what are you using to simulate the color of the tires? Straight black doesn't look right

Actually I commissioned brunomcardoso to make a 3D model of it. My intention was to utilize the AMT 1970 Challenger kit for the running gear and other parts. We completed the project and I thought I had paid for exclusive files. Upon cruising 3D cults I saw the file. So if you want to purchase it, it is available, you'd have to print it yourself or hire some one to print it for you. I was going to buy a 3D printer and start the project, unfortunately I ran into some hardships and this has been put on hold for now. Here's the link if you want to buy the file. Bruno created a chassis and wheels so you could make a curbside. Keep in mind I don't control anything he is offering, I merely started the process. https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models/car/antique-car/dodge-diamante-1970

Thank you for the info! I contacted him on Facebook, can't wait to see his offerings and get pricing.

When he offered kits I just couldn't swing picking any up. I'm interested in learning more, how did you find out he intends to bring them back?

Just as the title states, I'm looking for these parts to do a replica 77 Mustang II Cobra. I've been modeling since the 80's and have multiple kit and parts to trade. Let me know what you've got and need and hopefully we can work a deal out. Thanx

All, thank you for your responses. I was stripping 2 built MPC kits I had purchased in a big lot of build ups. One came out super clean and the other chalky. It's interesting because both annuals are from the same time period. My usual go to is Castrol Super Clean, over the years I've stripped automotive touch up paint with it many times without any problems. Unfortunately this time around it did nothing. I then tried alcohol and had the same results. My last ditch effort was the brake fluid since I had no idea what it was painted with. I have several other bodies currently pickling in the super clean and they are slowly coming around.

My Castrol Super clean wasn't able to strip off one of my projects so I opted to use brake fluid for the first time. Its working surprisingly well, however I'm noticing the surface of the body is sort of white and chalky now. For those that have used this method before how do you clean the body after you're done? Is soapy water enough? I've used a scrub brush and while the body is wet it seems fine. But once it dries its chalky again. What am I doing wrong? Or is this nothing to worry about? The other thing I noticed is the windshield is hazy/crazed to. All help is appreciated.

Does anyone know if a 3D kit of a wide body Challenger exists? I really like this car and would love to replicate it in a model. I believe Texas 3D Customs has the rims, however I'd also need the wheel arches, front and read spoiler and hood/shaker.

What 3D printer did you purchase and where did you find files? Do you use a specific type of resin? Did the slicer come with the printer or is that separate item that you had to purchase? Do you need to purchase a cleaning station? I'm currently in the initial learning stages and appreciate your opinions and experiences.

FYI - Andrey Bezrodny offers a 3D printable model -see the link below. I haven't printed it, just found it the other day while cruising the site. So I can't offer any opinions on the scale. https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/automotive/chrysler-300-1970

Please educate me and help me understand. What are the various uses for machinist blocks? Especially as it applies to modeling? I'm stretching my skill set and venturing into building some big rigs. I have the the International 4300 and Ford LTL 9000 on my build list. Are you using these to square the frame?

@Sledsel I appreciate the info. I purchased a couple for build ups, from what I've been told the engine bay area on the MPC's have glue in inner fenders where the AMT's have the inner fender area molded to the chassis plate. If that is true then these are all MPC kits. They all came with hoods, however they have all been hacked up for a blower to come thru. I'm attempting to build stock versions, which is why I need some hoods. I do have one good one, which if I could resin cast, I would do. Unfortunately that's not really an option.

Pretty much as the description states, I'm looking for stock 1974 thru 1978 Mustang II hoods to complete a few restorations. I'm willing to purchase or trade depending on what you need. Let me know your thoughts and we can work from there. Thanx much for your time.

Like the title states, what current model kit could I use as a donor chassis to replicate a 1975 Cutlass 442 or a 1973 Chevelle? My thought was that maybe the 1971 Cutlass might work.I don't have a whole lot of knowledge regarding A bodies. I'm really in my initial planning/discovery phase before I tackle a build. I've purchased a resin body and don't want to do a curbside. I appreciate any and all knowledge the group could provide. Thanx!