GTMust

Love the colors. You have overcome the problems with this kit very well. I have mine in primer, back in the box, when I lost all interest in it a year or so ago. What a challenge! But you've inspired me to open the box again. Whether or not I'll keep it open is another question! Excellent work!!!

Very interesting. As 1/8" - 1'0" is 1/96 scale for architectural models, where did you get the cars? Or are they HO model railway (1/87) scale? Is this model part of your professional work? Tony

Really appreciate the info, Robert. Stupid as it may sound, I never thought to check out Radio Shack! Next thing on my list when I go to the Mall. Maybe they have all the stuff I need to power the lights as well. By the way, my kids are 38, 36 and 25...... But maybe the grandkids can help....! Thanks. Tony

I received the 1925 Model "T" Ford, 3 in 1 kit from Ebay this morning so I'm all set to go! Three models will be built from these two kits: 1. A stock 1926 Model "T" sedan delivery using the body from the Revell kit and the chassis and motor from the AMT 1925 kit. 2. A 1950's style hotrod using the custom chassis, the stock 25 "T" roadster (but modified) body and Lincoln engine from the AMT 25 "T" kit. 3. A modern "Rat Rod" using the chopped "T" coupe body on the Revell custom chassis. Would like to stay all Ford, but may use a Chevy 350 in this build. As I will be switching and swapping parts from these two kits, this WIP thread will include the build of all three models. Confused? Me too, but hopefully it will all work itself out in the end!

Yes and yes Robert, As I understand it, fibre optics need a seperate feed to each light. So nine lights would need nine seperate feeds? I believe this is correct? Or am I wrong? I've also explored LED's as the actual "light", and probably will go in that direction, but I'm looking for a simple (no-battery) power source. Plus I have to locate the actual LED bulbs and holders for a reasonable price. Checked our local stores - nothing.... and the doll house lighting suppliers are a little expensive! I found some dollar store key chain LED lights, but they need constant pressure on the switch to keep the light on. Plus the holder is a little bulky. I'll explore that possibility as well when I take one apart. (Right now it's on my key chain and I need it!) I haven't made this a priority, and I'll get back to it when some of my other projects get finished. Thanks for the input.... Tony

Ed: I've been experimenting with lighting ideas, but haven't finalized anything yet. Battery drain is a problem as you say, so I'm trying to get something working with a 110v/12v transformer. Model railway type seems to work in principle, but it's big and I have to find a place to hide it. Jim: I've been working on my CBP Fox Mustang, so the dio took a back seat for a while. But I've stalled on the 'Tang until I can paint it in the Spring so the dio will be back on the bench soon.

OK.... decision made after a restless night's sleep! I'm going to build it, but not as part of this community build. And not right now. When, and if, I do get it finished, I'll post it in the finished projects section, and we can all have a good laugh!!!

Things have been kinda quiet around the garage. The CBP Mustang is on hold for a while until it can get to the paint shop. So "Backyard Billy" decided to clean up a little. (Not that there's a lot to clean up yet!)

To be honest Eric, I haven't decided whether to finish this piece of garbage, or put it where it belongs and start something else. My brain says "dump it" but my heart can't resist the challenge. Decisions... decisions!!! Hopefully it will help others who may read this. Quick poll..... is it worth continuing on this CPB or have you already seen more than enough?

Great Jeff, I love reincarnations! Lots of pics please. In a previous post, I mentioned that I had ordered a Testor's Mercury Capri RS Turbo off Ebay. It has arrived and it will be my second entry into this community build. First let me describe the kit for those that may be tempted to buy it. Unless you indulge in self torture...... don't bother. In my case, I'm already stuck with it so I have to make the best of things. It's about 1/20 scale so unless you're building in that scale (?) don't think about keeping it for parts. It's a snap together curbside, no engine and the body comes in two parts..... an upper and a lower part which is attached to the "chassis". Body detail is vague, and the tailights are a "stick on" decal. But here.. take a look at the major components. My first job was to seperate the lower body panels from the chassis: ... and attach them to the upper body. Unfortunately the lower panels are a little shorter than the upper body location, so some surgery will be needed around the wheel arches. The belt line molding is nowhere near accurate and is split in half where the body panels join: As you can see, there are also numerous sink holes that had to be filled. The red plastic has a high gloss finish that resists any grade of sandpaper finer than 80 grit. When I tried to attach the front grille, I realized just how badly the body was warped and have had to superglue the grille and hold it in place until it fully sets up. If it doesn't hold I will have to heat up the body and epoxy it in place. You can also see the twist in the body in the following picture: The kit comes with oversized rear and side window louvres. The rear spoiler is part of the rear window louvre part, way too thick and the wrong shape. I'm determined to finish it as I once owned a 1981 Capri with the straight six, auto, without a rear spoiler and blue in color. So this build will be in memory of that car (sort of).

Looking really nice, Mike. I love the stance. Great job. Tony

Very true Eric... very true. I must admit the box art is neat, but not worth that kind of money! BTW... check out the prices on the Snake Bite kit... or any of the early (79 to 83) Fox kits. They're all getting up there.

Really neat!! Great upholstery work. Is it my imagination or does the car have magical cowl vent that appears and then disappears? Maybe that home made wine I had was just too strong!

Hey Jeff...... thanks for the comment. Which of the pace cars are you doing... the Monogram or the MPC? I tried to score both these off Ebay last week, but they went over my budget. I'll keep looking though. Look forward to seeing your build pictures. Tony

Love what you're doing with this, especially the realistic door swings inside the front fenders. Great start!

I'm usually an OOB type builder, but for some reason, this build has taken on a life of it's own. So I had to add some detail to the bare Monogram front suspension (or lack of)! Especially as it can be seen through the open spokes of the turbines. I started by robbing an AMT Chevy van glue bomb of it's shocks and adapting them to act as front struts. Then I added upper control arms to the existing chassis. Front disc brakes came from the Revell 26 Ford T sedan delivery which I am building in another thread and modified to fit. The idea here was to get an indication of the front suspension without going overboard, as most of it will be hidden by the body. Here's some build shots: I still have to extend the front sway bar and add the end links (the kit has the center part of the sway bar but it's not attached to anything. While that was all drying, I test fitted the GT tailight lenses (another of Billy's visual upgrades in the late 80's). Good job I did as they didn't fit! After much cutting, filing and sanding, now they do. Here's a picture of the mods I had to make to the driver's side, before doing the same to the passenger side. With that completed, it's time to turn my attention back to the interior. Stay tooooned.......

Keep adding, Tony..... It's all those little details that really give it so much character. But I have a question. With those gorgeous girls around, where are the guys? I can't believe they're inside, working on the cars! Real conscientious, eh? (Did I spell that rite?) Love it!

The 5.0 has been plumbed and wired and installed in the chassis. I'll add heater hoses and finish the wiring after the body is added.

I've slowed down on the Fox body CBP, as I'm just about ready for paint (hurry up warmer weather!). So, to keep busy, I started another project I've been thinking about for a long time but never got started on. To add to my collection of Model T Fords (as Henry built them) I needed a stock chassis to replace the custom built chassis included in the Revell 1926 Model T Delivery. So I purchased a 25 Model T kit form Ebay that has to alternate bodies included. I intend to use the custom Chassis from the delivery kit under the "chopped coupe" body from the 25 T kit, and the stock model T frame under the 26 delivery body. So to get started I have assembled the custom chassis. The chrome sprues in this kit were terrible, thick chrome over lots of flash, so I removed most of the chrome and will paint the complete chassis. I left off the inboard rear discs to use on the front of my Mustang CBP and will replace them with drum brakes from my parts box. Suggestions and critique always welcome.

Much as I'm a lover of Mustangs...... won't it be a shame to cover all this fine work with a body!

Thanks for this Virgil. I really need to get off my a.. and make myself a spray booth. These videos have given me some great ideas. Tony

The contact man (president) of the Kingston Scale Auto Club is Dick Allen. You can contact him at dirtydik@hotmail.com. for information about the show, meeting dates and location, etc.

Here are a series of videos that might help you if you're designing or redesigning your latest project: http://www.drivenmavens.com/2011/01/05/how-to-draw-carsexterior-analysis-and-guidelines/ Hope you find it interesting and informative.

Looking good! Us older Canucks still think in inches.... If we drive in kilometers/hour, do we get there faster??

Another quick update. I have the door panels filled and sanded and pretty much ready for primer. I carved the panels to closely match the photo of the 1:1 door panel and added some solder (dry fit for now) to represent the chrome trim. I have made two armrests, one is shown here and added them to the panel. I've been struggling with what kind of wheels to use. I originally intended to use 5 spoke chrome Cragars, but couldn't find a match in my parts boxes between the rims and suitable tires. I didn't want to use the typical Monogram/Revell no-names, and the only decent looking other tires I had were 14". Then I found a set of Goodyear L60-15's, but they wouldn't fit the Cragars. So I asked Backyard Billy what he used. It appears that Billy still has the car and has been updating it from time to time as cash and his searches through the junyards would allow. But he could never afford to do a five bolt changeover to his brakes so the Cragars were out. Back in the late 80's he found a set of turbine rims from a wrecked '88 GT, thought they looked neat, so he bought them and added them to his car. He also picked up a few more goodies and added those as well. We'll see some of those in future posts. I was able to use the turbine rims from the New Monkees kit, but had to modify them to fit the L-60 tires. I cut them down and attached the rear drum brake to the rim with the tire sandwhiched between. For the front brakes, I dug through my parts box and found some trim rings for the rear of the wheels that were deep enough to work with the cut down turbines. There are round "things" that hold the wheels onto the chassis in the kit, but they didn't work with my new set up, so I cut them up and used the large ring piece as a spacer for the rear wheels... and the tube piece as the spacer for the front wheels. I don't have a picture of this, but it seems to have given me the correct wheel stance that I was lookin for..... basically as a stock Mustang looks with the four bolt turbines. Here's a pic of the car dry fitted to check.