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GTMust

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Everything posted by GTMust

  1. HELP!!! When I received this glue bomb Cafe Racer, one of the chrome headlight inserts was missing, the other was badly damaged and the lenses were useless from overgluing. They are almost impossible to scratchbuild and the one I have isn't suitable for casting. Has anyone got a spare set(or even one) of these, that I could buy or even trade for something? Thanks.
  2. Jeremy: The kit's not rare...... it's still listed and available on the Lindberg website. Tony
  3. I just ordered a Testors Snap kit of the Mercury Capri Turbo RS from Ebay. Don't know if it's a rehash of the old Revell kit or what. Seller wasn't even sure of the scale and he deals in models. I don't expect to receive it (snail mail from the US to Canada) for a couple of weeks, but wondered in anyone had any infor on this kit. Here's the box art:
  4. I think I just figured out how you do it. You're 3" tall and you work in a miniature body shop. Right? Fantastic!!!!
  5. The interior door panaels on all the Monogram Fox Mustang kits are pretty simplistic and bear little resemblance to the real door panel. The door panel design did change over the years, the earliest being represented (kinda) in the cafe racer kit and almost unchanged in the '93 Cobra kit. Backyard Billy was trying to update his '81 to look like the '85 style...... so the door panel design had to change, especially as the panels can be easily seen though the open T-tops. Here's what the '85 should look like: To update the look of the interior, the inner door panels were removed and the molded detail scraped off. Then 3M auto body filler was laid over the door and the surrounding interior and left to dry. Later I will try(?) to carve some more accurate detail into them. While that was drying, the chassis was given a weathering wash and some aging added to the exhaust sytem. It seems that the 4 cyl, turbo exhaust is the same as the '85 GT except for the Y pipe, at least my 1:1 '85 is. So this was a simple swap. Dual exhausts were perhaps added in late '85 or in '86? Still have the rear shocks and front struts to add. Struts are not included in the kit so I will pirate some from the parts boxes.
  6. I followed your build up of this one as well, Mike. Finished looking sweet! Can't wait to see what's next on your workbench.
  7. Now that is really coooool! I think you found the answer, Danny. BTW, what's a Mini Mag light? Tony
  8. I've been (quietly) following this build mrmike, and love the way it is developing. It looks great in the green you have chosen. I've personally owned every year of Mustang since 1965, except for the mid seventies Mustang II and a few of the SN95 series from '94 on. The '65/'66 fastback was one of my favourites. My '65 was a 289 in white and the '66, also a 289, was a pale gold/green color. I'm a Mustang fan (hence GTMust). I currently have 4 1:1 Mustangs from the mid '80's and a '99 3.8 summer driver. Just one final note on the chassis primer color and some of the comments made by forum members. Reading back, it is possible that some members weren't aware that the primer color on the Mustang chassis was left raw by the factory and only (as you have correctly depicted), barely covered by the body color overspray. I can understand why it may have seemed hilarious to some that I had even mentioned the color of a primer, as they might have assumed it would have disappeared when the color coat was applied. If the car was undercoated, of course, this whole issue would be irrelevant. Hopefully this will clarify why the issue was ever brought up. I only mention this again in case anyone else may build a "factory fresh" car and might find it of interest. And I will now... shut up about it! Can't wait to see the Spencer car finished. But don't rush.... I savour every post!
  9. Whoops...... now I must add a correction and apology. In the last sentence of my first post in this thread, I did accidentally mention baking "soda" although I had referred to baking "powder" in the preceding paragraphs before. Put it down to a brain f..t by an old man. Sorry for the confusion.
  10. Just a quick correction to your last post, Chuck. I suggested baking powder... not baking soda. Baking soda is caustic and can be a problem as you say. Baking powder is a different thing altogether and is harmless, just like flour. I've used it on my model railways and it works just fine. Plus it's cheap to buy. Steal a little from your kitchen cupboard and see.........
  11. Did any kit manufacture issue a late model S10 3door, extended cab, shortbox stepside? I have a 1:1 2000 S10, but can't find a base kit to work from to replicate it. I see some extended cabs from you, Chris, but no stepsides. Are yours all scratchbuilt?
  12. GTMust

    Garage Dio

    These are great. I assume you turned them on a lathe? If you decide to resin cast them, count me in for a few. Tony
  13. I like it!!! Nice detailing in the engine bay, Jordan. You've established a standard for the rest of us to work up to. Tony
  14. First of all, I hope everyone had a great holiday and the hangovers and swollen stomachs are settling back to normal! Backyard Billy (AKA GTMust) has being working while we've been playing. The plastic blobs have been replaced with real springs at front and rear. Front and rear shocks still have to be added. (Compare to the stock kit parts) The engine has been installed (minus it's accessories). The motor came from the wrecking yard without an oil pan. Unfortunately Billy didn't realise that the 5.0 Mustang should have a double sump oil pan until after the engine was installed, and he had used one from another 302. He figured it would work just as well so he left it. Work has started on the steering. The completed shaft can't be installed until the body and chassis are finally joined together and painted. Unfortunately Billy broke the windshield header when he removed the original windshield, so additional bodywork will be required in this area.
  15. I always thought these should have gone into production! Will be following this re-build with interest. Great start.
  16. Here's a couple of ideas: Dio #1. Baking powder makes great snow. If you want snow just on the ground, brush the area with white glue and sprinkle the baking powder over it. After it dries, shake or brush off the excess. If you don't have enough coverage, just repeat. For snow banks, build up layers of foam insulation, glued together as high as you want and then carved/shaped to whatever contours you want with a kitchen knife. Then cover with baking soda same as above. Consider using very fine grade wet and dry sandpaper for asphalt roadway. In 1/32 scale, I would suggest 400 grit. Then sand the surface after it's glued down and dried, in the direction of traffic travel with another sheet (dry) of the same grit. It will change the surface texture to look like worn aspalt. It's a lot simpler and quicker than your sand method. (See my two car garage dio.) I used this technique when I needed hills for my model railway in the past. Here's a picture of a 1/32 scale used car lot I'm building that I used this method. I haven't posted a thread on this project yet, as it's been dormant for a while. Swamp dio #2. Asphalt roadway as above. The rest is done with model railway supplies from your LHS. Plus check out the ideas on the campground suggestions in this diarama category (wood filler, etc.) Garage dio #3: See my two car garage dio. It should give you all the information on the materials you can use. Check also other great garage dios on this site. I only started building dios recently, but once you start, you'll be amazed what simple and cheap materials you have around the house that you can use.
  17. I've heard of fibre optics, but never actually seen any. Our LHS doesn't have them and there aren't any doll house stores around here. It will have to be the Internet or nothing....... Thanks guys, I'll check it out. I found those "flourescent" doll house lights you mentioned, Ed. Boy, those shipping costs to Canada can kill ya! 2 bucks and change for each light and $15 to ship it to me! ($5.99 shipping in the US.)
  18. Brad: We have so many pages on this build that I had to flip back to page one to remind myself what and who was building! I think the CB Project started with about 25 builders and who knows how many cars. After looking at the detail you were putting into the suspension, I have to comment on the quality of your build. And yours as well highway! Not forgetting the great starts by the other builders. I'm really hopped up on seeing some more work on all those projects. Meanwhile, I'll keep plugging away at mine even though I'm keeping the underside pretty simple compared to you guys! Too often I started off in the past with great intentions of super detailing, and run out of steam somewhere along the way. That's why I try to keep my builds pretty much OOB, unless I have to modify something like the T-tops on this build.
  19. Thanks Jim. I did see the Mach 5 thread and saw that 3 was the maximum number of small LED's that were run from a 9v battery. I really don't understand all this electrical stuff very well (volts, ohms, amps, resistors, etc.), but I'm trying to learn. Apart from connecting some wires on my model railway in the past, I never needed the knowledge before! In this case I have to connect about 9 or 10 lights to a power source, without using three or more 9v batteries. I thought of regular Christmas lights but was warned that the heat generated, if left on, could start a fire in the wood/paper constuction of my "garage". Plus the regular bulbs are rather long and difficult to hide in 1/24 scale lamps. Maybe my lack of knowledge is just making this more difficult than it really is, but if a simple solution can be found, it might also help others building dios as well.
  20. How about some progress pics of your build Brad (even if it's just the parts in the box.... hehehehe!) Seriously, though, is anyone else actually building their Foxes beside the three of us? Come on guys... how about some progress pics! Or did the extended deadline slow everyone down? (Disclaimer: Just kidding. No offence intended!)
  21. Appreciate it Derrick. Billy: The water heater idea might be great answer. Or even a cupboard under the stairs? Another thought I had was to build a lift top, wooden trash container box to house a AA battery at the end of the driveway, with a hollow styrene "hydro pole" beside it. Run the wires up to to the top of the pole and then across to the "meter" on the garage wall. I'm no electical wiz, and I don't know what power is needed to light those little lights (12v?). Maybe a AA battery isn't enough? The meter and fuse box ideas would just be dummies and the wires would run right through them. Maybe I need something like a 12v model railway transformer instead of a battery? With it's speed controller, I could probably dim the lights! I have a whole bunch of Model Railway electrical "stuff" stashed away in boxes, but finding a location for the transformer would be a problem. Virgil...... if you are reading this...... have you had any thoughts for your Lab-rat-ory yet?
  22. Looking good. I just love progress photos!
  23. Great idea... why didn't I think of that?????? Thanks James.. that will really help me.
  24. From my (very brief) experience, foamcore and styrene don't mix well! I haven't found a glue yet that will adhere to both surfaces. "Plastic cement" will destroy foamcore board and white glue won't stick to plastic. I've tried 'UHU', and a bunch of other brand names. Super glue and contact cement also ate the foamcore. If you find a glue that will work for both, please let me know. That's why I've used as little styrene as possible.
  25. Thanks James. When I started this dio I had thought to use styrene, but the cost would have been just too much for me. Using the basswood and foamcore (use a really sharp new knife!) made this a very inexpensive build. I got all my supplies from Michael's, using their 40% and 50% discount coupons. Ideas from the forum, especially the foamcore "brickwork", also saved me a lot of money. Even the base was a discarded cupboard door from a junkpile! It's all glued together with cheap school glue from the dollar store and it's as solid as a rock! $1 plastic bottles of acrylic craft paints came from the same source. With respect, may I suggest you reconsider the styrene/plastic concept. That way you could get started for less than $20. I don't think I've spent more than $20 or $30 on mine yet and I still have a whole load of material left over for the next one. Just a suggestion. And I would love to see some progress shots!
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