Scale-Master

I started working on the oil coolers, but decided to machine the sandwich block and a couple fittings first.

But wait, there's more… I embossed the Dynomax logo too.

This is the main muffler bracket/mount. Hand formed sheet aluminum. And with the mounting hardware…

Since it's for the street I started making a crossflow muffler. It would still be loud, but at least not straight-pipe loud. Inlet and outlets are brass tubing.

I made the rear hanger brackets for the exhaust.

Thanks Andrew. I permanently installed the rear bulkhead and engine mount cross-member and just had to test fit the block and trans… Figured I'd do the rear sway bar while I was working on the front one too.

I fabricated the front sway bar guides from brass and styrene and then after machining the bolts and washers I lost one of the guides. I wasn't in the mood to make the same exact part again, so I machined a different style of new (beefier) guides and used the aluminum hardware on them. (I did not find the missing part yet…)

Thank you Tim! The tub and some of the other bulkheads and related parts finally received some paint.

Thank you Jim! I turned my attention back to the interior and started fabricating the dash parts. The bulkhead is all styrene; solid stock and sheet. The dash/gauge panels were made from sheet styrene too. A little more styrene was used for the steering column and its mount.

I started texturing and coloring some of the suspension parts…

Thank you Jim! Dry fitting the transaxle subassembly together…

The Red Alert Chevelle has an awful body. I was just looking at my kit a couple months ago and was shocked at how bad it really is. It does not look like any real Chevelle or other car. And the real Red Alert was a '70, so even if the parts were accurate for the year it represents, it's still not correct. Why reissue something so "off" that can be had now with a much more accurate set of parts?

More little machined aluminum hardware added to the (3D created) rear cover.

Breather can holder and mount…

Thanks Trevor! The rear of the case was also done the same way and the bolts were acid treated.

The BD-J is done.

The BD-5B is done.

The transaxle was lightly textured and new bolts and drain plugs were machined for it.

Thanks Trevor! I used Warbird (Scale-Master) Decals white stripes for the meeting edges of the canopies, the rest of the frames were hand painted with Tamiya white. The canopies don't fit too bad, (or all that great) and there is a slight difference between the jet and prop versions so it's advisable to keep track of which plane they go on during assembly. The pitot tube is a steel straight pit cut and filed down to size. While the ½ gram in the nose was enough to keep the nose wheel on the ground, the pin doesn't hurt especially with the prop on the rear.

Thanks guys. I use hydrochloric acid. It is NOT friendly to aluminum, or concrete for that matter. Be very careful if you experiment.

Unfortunately it's all too common. It will likely split along the wrinkles, but the rest is still good; so cut around them. Usually changes in humidity are the culprit, and there's not too much you can do to other than use it up.

Thanks Guys!! I made the head bolts and acid treated them because they were too bright. Added a little grunge too.

These have 2.75 and 3.5 inch wing spans. All the decals are on them…

The oil pan is done for now. More machined aluminum parts too. It's starting to look like something…