Scale-Master

The rear frame section that is the spare tire holder and license plate mount will be removable (for weekend racing). After repairing the damage to the main section from it being a disassembled factory built, I cut the tire/license section off and retrofitted brass stubs and sleeves then drilled them for lock bolts.

Thanks Bob. Just having fun with this one. The sway bar comes anodized and I wanted it to be a lighter shade. I stripped the anodizing off and polished it. And then acid treated it for the final finish. Here it is installed with silicone insulation for the bushings and vinyl tubing for the stays at the modified upper control arms.

I fabricated the tie-rod ends from brass and the mounting hardware/fittings from aluminum.

Those Phillips heads will not be visible once the wheels are installed. There are others still visible that will get fixed with hex head hardware later. I use them until I know I don't need to worry about disassembling those pieces.

Thank you John. The front calipers have been detailed with fittings and hard lines and mated to the scratch-built rotors/hubs and those assemblies installed. The ball joints/Zerk fittings were installed too.

The (reworked) front suspension arms and shocks have been installed and uses the new hardware I machined to hold it all together.

The aluminum floor panels are made with holes in them for them to be screwed on to the frame. I didn't want to have those screws showing so I filled in the ½ dozen holes. I had to make some new rivets to replace to ones that got lost during the filling. I dirtied them up following the bottom of my car since it has similar panels. Cut and buffed the clear on the side panels and installed them too.

You will still need a 3D model to print from. Just like if you have a laser printer you'll need a document for it to print. Printers are just output devices. They don't create the part, that is done with software, they just print out the design.

I'm not 100% sure of your question, but to get something 3D printed you'll need a 3D model to print from. I use SolidWorks to create them, but there are other programs, and some are free.

Thanks Chris! White glue works, but I found Canopy Glue works better, and yes it is thinned out with water. Resin is messy, too thick and just a pain to work with in this case. It also obscures some of the pattern, which if you want to do is easily accomplished with primer or paint.

Here's how I kept the Camaro exhaust and mated it to the modified Corvette headers.

I've done the swap. A lot of small things need to be addressed besides the larger more obvious ones if you want it to be accurate for a factory BB. Like changing the heater box. Big block Camaros used a different one than the one rendered in the kit. I was able to use the Corvette headers, but heavily modified them and used the Camaro chambered exhaust.

Thanks guys! The fiberglass material is fabric softener sheets on this one. The aluminum body side panels have to be installed very early on in the construction of the car. The ones from the factory built car were somewhat bent and dented so they have been straightened out. Primed in white and a base coat of TS-26 Gloss White applied where the Gulf logos will go. The blue and white areas were masked off and the TS-12 Orange was applied. Then the orange was masked and TS-23 Light Blue was applied. And all the masking was removed… I didn't like the way the logo came out so I remasked and reshot the orange. That's better… Next up the blue and black decals I made for it were applied. And then sealed with a clear coat.

Thank you Rob, I try... The inside of the nose has been fiber-glassed…

Thank you Frank! I got around to finishing the front spoiler. SMS HiDef C/F decals sealed with clear lacquer and then sanded & buffed out. The underside will be left raw. I started fiber-glassing the inside of the nose too.

The front spoiler is scratch-built from styrene and pinned to the nose. Fiber texture has been added to the underside.

Thanks John. The front shocks needed to be reworked because the open snap-fit lower eyes didn't look real. This one came off the factory built car I've disassembled. I had a fresh set of shocks left over from another kit. I cut off those lower eyes and replaced them with brass ones. Then I cut the pistons off all four top pieces and replaced them with aluminum rod. The holes that hold the set pins were filled and sanded smooth. The springs were painted with R/C car body paint to flex and I made Koni decals. The snubbers were made from silicone and BMF was used for the spring tensioners. (The rears will be compressed when they are installed.)

Thanks!!!!! I cut vents into the nose and added a beak reminiscent of a Ferrari or Gurney Eagle. Rounded corners were added to the scoops. A coat of primer before hopefully a final sanding.

Thanks John! Oil filter installed and custom made decals applied to it, the belts and the oil cap…

Thanks Chris! After a complete tear down and clean up and some modifications, the frame was built up then given a base of Navy Blue.

Oil pan is ready for installation. If the molded in bolt detail was done as hex heads I might have just painted them. But they were round so I shaved them off and made new bolts and washers and some fittings.

What better to replicate silicone plug wire boots than… brass?

Distributor installed with I.D. plate. The reworked and detailed oil pump is also installed.

The distributor cap was milled from white resin I dyed gray and poured as a blank. After milling it was polished so it looks like the raw plastic of a real one. The boots are made of brass. The base and vacuum advance canister are aluminum. The bracket is repurposed photo-etch material and the actuating rod is steel. The cap is just loosely sitting on the base.

Thanks guys! Chris, I was thinking of our discussions about the belt when I was making it. I almost did it and the cogs in SolidWorks, but I went old school with what I knew and could do without outsourcing the printing.