Scale-Master

Even though I measured several times and the dimensions were and are correct, they just didn't look quite right when I installed them into the rims. A more common issue than many might realize when making things in scale, sometimes things have to be made out of scale to look like they are in scale. So I made a new slightly smaller set of five. (I already installed one just to see how it looks…)

I machined the valve stems for the wheels in one piece each including the washer, two nuts, stem and cap (plus a mounting pin).

The rear fenders are done as far as paint and graphics. I still need to add stone guards to the front, after I decide what material/color I want them to be. The taillight housings were drilled out to accept clear bulbs I made for them, (they are just loosely set in place). I used foil for the reflector panels.

Thanks David. Technically the blue is too rich and intense compared to the GT-40 color. But since it isn't a replica I don't think it is an issue...

After shooting the final clear on the hood I was quite pleased with the outcome, at first... The graphics came out fine which were my primary focus, but secondarily were the louvers. I did not like the little fillets of clear on the louvers that I expected to pull in as it dried. So I stripped it in the solvent tank and with the paint the filler came off. I redid the body work like the first time, but then thought it needed something more… I formed and fitted a fairing to the carb opening in the hood out of sheet aluminum. I masked off the white and shot the blue. Then masked the blue too and shot the orange. Ready for decals… The decals have been applied. I added some new Caterham lettering I drew and printed for it too. Still needs to be sanded to fully smooth out the Gulf logo, but I like the louvers better than the last try. Plus it has the new fairing. Clear has been cut and buffed… I am satisfied.

Rear panel clear coat has been cut and buffed. Rubber gasket and fuel filler installed…

You got the concept as I am using it in this case Mike. Glad to help.

Basically it is a sealer layer of clear. I used the same clear as for the finish and cut it with extra reducer and applied it relatively thin. Also in most cases I don't worry about the level of shine since it will be sanded and cleared later. It is a very useful technique when painting multiple layers of colors for graphics; sort of way to save (protect) your work as you go.

Yes, great to see you too last night Pete. Thanks for making the trek.

The rear fenders were painted the basic same way as well… Blue and orange. The white was applied followed by the dark blue decals, then clear coated. Clear has been shot on the rear panel and is ready for final buffing. Same process for the hood and cowl except due to the louvers on the hood being so close to the Gulf logo a light intra-clear was applied that will be sanded out to make the logo smooth under the clear before the final clear is applied.

Thanks Brian! The hood and rear panel were painted in similar fashion as the other two-tone pieces; primed in white then masked and the first color applied. In this case the blue went down first. Then the orange was applied after masking the blue off. When I did the sides I found it yielded better results to do the white after the blue and orange so I did it that way on these pieces too. Here is the rear with the decals for the blue and black applied on top of the paint.

I made this little back-up light since I removed the factory ones from the rear fenders. I machined an aluminum housing, bezel and double-lock mounting nut, made a light bulb, and found a lens from the parts box to build it all around. The mounting post is steel.

The fuel cap was machined as two basic pieces. Then 6 bolts were made for mounting to the car and a ring added around the lock cylinder.

Thanks John. Was able to shoot the clear last night…

The nose was primed in white and what will be the blue areas were masked off before shooting the orange; much like the sides were done. Then the orange was masked and the blue applied. The black pinstripes were added. When they fully dry I'll clear coat.

Thanks guys! Borrowing styling cues from the Lotus S4 and SS TwinCam rear fenders I modified the somewhat boring stock ones to hide the blocky tail light set up to a degree. I filled in the holes for the back-up lights first. Then I built boxes around the mounting area of each light and added more sheet styrene to make the fairings. A little rough sanding to shape… Primed and ready for paint.

The kit provides the floor of the "trunk" as a nice sheet aluminum piece. A friend of mine has a plywood part for that piece in his Seven. So I cemented some thin sheets of birch wood together, stained them with some dark brown acrylic and sealed the bottom with resin and fiberglass for strength.

Thanks Brian! The fuel tank and filler pipe, both kit parts just painted up with added decals and wiring for the fuel gauge and a machined fitting for the fuel line. A little staining and grime was added too.

Thanks guys! Primary fuel filter. Aluminum with brass bracket and steel spring lock. Grungied up a bit before installation. (Big Ruler back by popular demand.)

Thank you for the kind words guys! I used talc powder in the paint to create the sand cast texture and it is "scaleable" for smaller models. It took a little more fine tuning than I expected to get the trans and engine mated properly, but worth the effort.

The transmission is done and ready to be attached to the engine. Sand cast texture was added. The bellhousing was given a powder coated finish. At least 40 added machined aluminum pieces, (some of them will be installed after mounting to the engine), and another fill tag.

If the engine is visible (like the Ferrari and Lamborghini examples) it should be judged. Same for the interior on a convertible and the suspension and what can be seen of the bottom on a jacked up 4x4. The rule of thumb is very simple. Judge all that can be seen without picking it up. Just like walking around a real car and looking without touching.

88 Fair Drive, Costa Mesa CA, 92626 OC Fair & Events Center, Building 10 Model Car Contest Registration is from 9:00AM-12:00 Noon Awards Presentation is at 2:00PM 14 categories. Trophies, Model Kits and other model related goodies are awarded to the winners. Trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd place. Plus Trophies and Awards (and kits) for: Best Engine, Best Interior, Best Finish and Best of Show Sponsored by: Scale-Master Decals Tamiya Models Revell-Monogram Models Round 2 Models Scale Auto Magazine Brookhurst Hobbies Scale Motorsport Prestige Hobbies Evett's Model Shop Model Car Contest Info: www.cruisinforacure.com/model-car-contest/ General Show Info: www.cruisinforacure.com/

Funny you mention the big ruler. I too was just noticing the other day that I hadn't been using it for photos. I still have it...

I was able to get the half shaft stubs out of the rear end, but the differential cover and drive shaft would not come off without serious damage, so I had to work with them as one piece. I hand milled (my fingers turning an end mill) the U-joint bearing caps to make the recesses then made retaining clips for them from wire. The dampener flange was cleaned up and drilled for the bolts I milled. Balancing weights were also added. The differential was textured to look like a cast unit then detailed with more machined hardware including an acid treated fill plug. A custom decal was made for the plug tag and a vent line was added along with a guide and clamp.