Scale-Master

Thanks guys. The engine was filthy. The Chevy Orange was barely visible under the grunge. I still need to work the weathering and grime as I build more on the engine. The wiring was special too. (This is how I got it.) There were “insulators” made of foil tape to protect the #2 and #4 wires from the (rusty) exhaust manifolds. It had stock ignition wires, and I think the ones on the model are in a lot better condition… It had nice aluminum valve covers, I sourced them for the model from the AMT ’70 Z/28.

This is going to be a model of my third car. It was a 325 HP 327 with a Muncie 4 speed still in original paint. But it was not a pretty or even well maintained car when I got it. I started by painting and weathering the chassis and engine bay.

I had one of those, I think it was from a Honeycomb box. I know the song was Jingle Jangle.

I don't think the Nomad came with a record in the kit, you had to send away for it.

Yeah, but it's a pretty weak interpretation of a Turbo 400 by today's standards.

There was also and Apollo record we had from Revell. My Dad brought a lot of cool and interesting things home when he worked there.

Still have the one about the Doolittle Raiders from Revell somewhere. Thirty Seconds Over Tokyo. Or was is Sixty?

I foiled the window trim too. On my real car I removed the plastic chrome trim from the drip rails and finished them before I repainted it and then left them body color.

It's BMF brand.

No, multiple pieces. If I try to wrap it around the corners it is too much for the foil and will wrinkle, so the ends are separate pieces. It conforms around the license plate indentation, but much more than that can cause it to split or wrinkle. Still, a very workable product.

I rechromed the rear bumper with foil.

I made mirrors from parts box leftovers I reshaped and added stems and bases to.

This is the simplified/salvaged chassis. Just enough suspension pieces hanging down to give the look of something being there from the top.

Thanks guys! It isn't that the body is fat at the beltline (the width is actually pretty much the only close to accurate dimension) so much as it is proportionately and almost uniformly too short. I always thought it was odd that for a funny car they shortened it instead of stretching it. Since there were no windshield or door windows in the kit, and the rear windows were pretty thick, I made all the windows from sheet Lexan that I tinted with Tamiya Smoke.

This kit was originally tooled to make the Mako Shark II from 1965. There were only two Mako Shark II real cars, and only one of them was a driver. But there were a lot of customs inspired by them when people customized '68 and later Corvettes. I set up the stance and ride height with wire axles and brass tubing. I intend to use the kit’s tires, but not the turbine style rims. They are not in the best shape. I also want it to sit a lot lower than the way the kit builds. I had to hog out the rear chassis and inner wheel wells to make room for the tires. I had these resin wheels I cast laying around and they have bosses for wire axles molded to them. I probably will not use these wheels, at least not without some added machined rims to make them deeper. Right now I’m leaning towards Daisy’s.

This started as an MPC Street Fever Vette. A very good friend gave it to me; it was complete, unpainted and (poorly) partially assembled. It came apart with only minor damage (all repairable) to a few parts. The opening for the grill is probably the worst damage to the body, but not a real problem. The rear panel has some glue smears, but a minor issue as well. I decided to go curbside. After I cleaned up the body and cut out the scoop in the hood I reinforced a few spots inside the body and cemented the hood on. Next it was just a case of trueing the body, (typical 70s tooling), scribing in the panel lines to be more uniform and sanding off molded in details like the Corvette scripts. I plan to go with some type of metal-flake paint job. I have a few bottles of original Testors Metal Flake colors that seem appropriate.

The glass area of the sunroof was made from chrome Mylar and painted Tamiya Smoke. The button fasteners are steel pins.

Quick little Hot Wheels repaint with custom made decals. I made the wheels and soft tires from castings I did several months ago.

Exactly Ray. If you try to cut the decal before it is dry it might pull it or move it. (Always use a sharp knife.) I made and added the side marker lights and door & trunk locks. The stripe decals have been “fine-tuned” as mentioned above.

I mixed the Starburst Bronze Metallic from a handful of Testors enamels. Predominantly Pearl Orange, Stoplight Red, Sable Brown and some leftover bronze I mixed for the Revell Olds 442 Convertible (box art model). In reality the color was just a variant of Rust. What better color to paint a Vega? It will get a clear coat so I was only concerned with uniform coverage.

I made the stripes and applied them. When fully dry I’ll cut the panel lines through.

After making some test swatches with the color I mixed for the body, I decided a tan undercoat was the way to go. The mounting points for the wipers and mirrors have been drilled into the body.

It's also an optional part of the C6 Grand Sport graphics package (both sides).

I'm not sure what you're asking. What's the meaning of the Rally Stripes on a Camaro? What's the meaning of Hemi Billboard graphics on a 'Cuda? What's the meaning of Rocker Stripes on a Mustang? What's the meaning of a Bumble Bee Stripe on the back of a Mopar or front of a Camaro?

They've been on my car since before it was a fad. Left side only...