pete3522

Is it safe to clearcoat over decals or should I put the decals on after i clearcoat im going to paint the can - do wrecker and i dont want to trash the decals any suggestions?

I am eventually going to buy one of them and make it into the movin on S Pruitt truck its alot more acurate and cheaper

I am redoing a can-do wrecker i bought off evil bay the light bar on the rotator was caked with orange arcylic paint which looked like ###### I stripped it off down to the original clear point. Is their a paint for this that would make the clear look like tinted orange??Also same thing with the turn signals on the ends of the headlights. If i paint it orange from the inside i still dont think it would look right???Any of you guys know a good paint to use for this?I see they have transparent arcylics is this what i use???

Thanks for the info scale trucker I might do that to give it that 379 look

oh i see I almost was going to use my itareli 379 cab and hood on the wrecker but i never built that kit so i didnt want to part the kit out just for that

How is the lonestar kit to build? I almost bought one a couple times !! I am not a big international fan but i always thought that truck looked pretty cool

Tim i looked at your pics i see what you mean but i dont have an extra 379 hood around so im just going with what i got! Is the cab much different form a 359 to 379?? I have a 379 itareli kit i havent got around to building i never paid attention to all the differences i know they are close

Thanx fo yor input and pics Fortunately a person on the other model site i belong to had 2 sets of decals and sent me both yesterday talk about luck Thanx for the offer though! I have tried printing decals can never seem to get the scale and size right. I think there is like 125 decals for this can-do?That should be fun I read from other people they can be a real biotch??

i used a air brush when i built these when i was a teenager with all the advanced auto spraypaints out there you can achieve the same results if not better with a spray can

i use spray cans never did the warming trick but sanding between coats is a definite and clear coating dont paint when its damp cold or windy outside i spent many hours redoing trucks cause of this

I am redoing a peterbilt can- do wrecker i bought off evilbay that was in terrible condition was painted flat black with the stepps decals which i thought wouldnt look to bad till i recieved the truck besides the paint and decals being backwards it looked like a 2yr old got a hold of 20 tubes of glue and some arcrylic paint and went town but the great thing is i bought this for 50 bucks compared to the 300. they are asking on evil bay So to make along story short one of the issues was the front of the hood was kinda melted from all the glue that was used to put the grill on .So while i started to sand the hood down i decided to remove the grooves on the center of the hood and the sides which i thick would make it close to the 379 hood that is suppose to be on the real truck ??? I hear alot about this cause the chasis is suppose to be a 379 not 359 and its suppose to be a cat not a cummins?? But anyway i smoothed the top of the hood and the sides i heard these decals are a real b*t*h so i figures this would make that easier so anyway just wandering i have a itareli 379 kit which i havent got around to build was going to use that for a refrence but i didnt get that far so you guys tell me? And by the way i will eventually post pics of this build its goin slow lot of paint strippen and redoing parts and fixen stuff all the movable parts were glued got all those freed and working so anyway let me know

i actually found a awesome way of doing this re a friend i talk to! Ok heres how it goes take a new blade in a xacto knife use the back side of the blade!! I know that dont sound right but trust me i just used it today on a revell peterbilt 60 inch sleeper doors usually it taKES ABOUT 6 swipes the whole way around if it dont pop out then use the blade side . Next take a file or sand paper clean your edges. Now for the hinge i take small tubing i cant remember the od but super glue a about a 1/2 inch on the edge of the door then set your door in place put a piece of tape in behind to hold it in place then i take about 2 3/16 pieces of tubing run a piece of wire thru the first 3/16 piece then thru the 1/2 piece you glued to the door then stick the other piece on. then super glue you 2 small pieces to the body once the glue sets go back with duco cement or epoxy then their you go hinged doors this all takes time dont rush it

a/gass your method sounds interesting But will dental floss cut plastic?

yeah i just looked at that your bonding your tubes to plastic pieces then glueing it to the door?? im trying to bond mine right to the edge of the door of course truck doors are straight though? Another way i thought of trying was using auto body filler(bondo) which i have used on models before and kinda use it as a epoxy to bond the tubing

Anyone know a easy way to cut out doors beside a xacto knife tried the dremel tool with a cut off wheel it makes to wide of a cut and tends to go crooked next thing is piano hinges just started messen with this bought some small steel tubing seems like it would work problem is getting the metal tubing to the plastic door tried different glues with no sucess was thinking maybe using epoxy like jb weld or something anyone else with these issues??Or know something that worx?