traditional

As with the Japanese truck kits, these 1/32 bus kits are somewhat overpriced but excellently molded, and many of the bus kits are available with the main body already painted and including the basic graphics. They are not,,however, simple kits to build as there is a lot of painting and masking required to finish the interiors and window details, and the installation of the operating doors is quite 'finnicky'. Like the truck models though, I do find the Aoshima bus kits very satisfying when completed. Mitsubishi 'Aero Queen' Mitsubishi city bus

This 1/32 model of a small Japanese truck is from Fujimi and, like most current Japanese models, is well molded with good proportion, detail and no sink marks. The kits are not inexpensive, but to avoid the usual model kit sink marks, they probably use higher quality molds and a much slower mold cycle. They make a whole series of similar medium duty Japanese trucks. Paint is basecoat/clearcoat with Humbrol, Testors, and Tamiya for trim and detail.

Until I started travelling on both business as well as vacations, I didn't give a lot of thought to foreign trucks, but I must admit, I now really 'love-em-all'. Aoshima 1/32 Japanese truck kits are somewhat overpriced, and they're rather simple builds (no significant engine detail or tilting cabs etc.) but the mold quality is second to none......smooth crisp molding with no sink marks, excellent fit, and high quality plating and glazing. I wait for bargains to come along on ebay and, ultimately, I find these very satisfying kits to build. The main effort on these kits is in the paint detail....window gaskets and grill/trim detail etc. I've generally used automotive basecoat/clearcoat for the main bodies, with Humbrol, Testors, and Tamiya for trim and small details. Isuzu Giga tractor with modified trailer and added gladhand air lines etc. Fuso 'Super Great' (actual name of vehicle) dump truck Hino side opening van Isuzu dump truck Older style Hino van Medium duty Isuzu 'drop-side' flatbed The Isuzu Giga Dump truck posed with a lighter duty Hino 'Cruising Ranger' dump truck

These are some of my old builds from the '70s and '80s when I was just getting back to building models again, after a few years of restoring and working on full size cars as a hobby......Now, I really enjoy both hobbies. The models were mostly built from original old Johan kits, with a few disassembled and refinished original Ex-Cell (Sp?) Johan 'repops' thrown in as well. Back then I painted with a Binks airbrush and typically mixed Testors paints to suit my needs. The trim was either masked and sprayed with Pactra 'chrome silver' (much better than Testors at that time) or else I used 'muffler repair foil' for simple or straight trim......something that I still prefer today over 'bare metal foil' for basic trim since it seldom looks 'wrinkly'. Although these relatively simple models are all quite old builds and, other than a few minor tweaks, are basically built box-stock, they still appeal to me after all this time and they've stayed in great condition thanks to individual display cases.

What a fabulous job you've done on that model!!!! It looks absolutely real and it's a great subject matter as well. To my eyes, that's magazine cover material.

Tony, That model is superb !!!! Just the planning must have been time consuming, and the results are outstanding. Good, also, to see that you protect it in its own display. It's great to see some variety in the types and nationalities of vehicles shown on this forum.......once you travel a bit, you really appreciate all of them.

Tim, It's a '35 Ford roadster made by grafting the front clip from a 'Crown Premiums' '35 sedan delivery (a cheap diecast model) to the cabriolet body of a stock '36 Ford diecast. Since it's difficult to effectively glue metal to metal permanently, you have to use mechanical means....in this case drilling and pinning.

Taking advantage of a lazy day here in Ottawa, I took some time today trying to shoot my favorite rods together.......all traditional hot rods, extensively modified from 1/24 diecasts, and all have been shown here before separately. I found it quite difficult to maintain enough depth of field to keep them all in focus and, of the many I tried, only these three shots came out reasonably well. Cad powered '35 Ford Roadster...from a stock '36 Cabriolet. Chevy powered chopped, channelled '33 Ford coupe...........from a full fendered '33. Chevy powered full fendered Deuce 5-window....from a deuce hiboy (FM 'Rockin' Rod') Paint on all the models is custom mixed basecoat/clearcoat, and all the models have custom interiors, super-detailed motors, and complete chassis detail, including brakelines, fuel lines and fabricated detailed suspension.

This model is a colaboration between my brother, Larry, and me, modified from a Japanese, 'Bandai' large scale kit (1/22?). The kit was originally one of those strange, overdecorated Japanese trucks, and designed to use a large printed label on the van body over absolutely smooth sides and rear panel. All the van detail......doors, latches, hinges, etc. had to be fabricated as well as the rear bumper detail. The mirror brackets and lower van safety protectors were soldered up in brass wire (following reference gleaned from the 'net'), and the grab handles were also bent up from brass wire. The grill (originally a large chrome affair) had to be modified at the headlight area to look stock and then painted in the more typical satin silver. Paint and graphics are done in basecoat/clearcoat with Testors, Tamiya and Humbrol details added. After travelling a few times in various Asian countries over the last few years, I've realized that these really super-long wheelbase straight trucks are quite prevalent on the highways between towns. They'd obviously have some difficulty maneuvering around in the more crowded inner cities.

Actually, I recall this kit being quite basic and simple.....but it does require some tweaking of the rear fender air intakes and outlets to be more accurate. Still, I remember it as being a 'quick build'.

This model was built in a short time around 15 years ago using the old MPC kit with a few modifications. I love the look of the T70s and simply added my own livery as well as thinning out the rear fender air inlets, finishing the rear outlets (behind the rear fenders, plated wire roll bar, tubing exhaust ends, and adding the spoiler to the rear deck. Now-a-days, I'd have added a lot more engine detail, but I like to keep my old models in the state they were initially built as a record of my hobby. Paint was basecoat/clearcoat and details were typically Testors and Humbrol.

Built from the old IMC kit when it was marketed by Testors many years ago.....the same kit now reintroduced by Lindberg. Since these gasoline engined L700 trucks wouldn't have been too appropriate for interurban transport, I decided to build it as an urban transport with the short version of the trailer. I've always liked the look and style of these unusual trucks and I've only added a few modifications....gladhands, engine wiring etc. Paint back then was lacquer with Testors and Humbrol details, lettering and logo were done with Letraset, and it's stayed in good condition thanks to always being kept in a display case

Geoff, Now that is pretty! Beautifully finished and gorgeous colouring.

Obviously based on a WCDP diecast rather than the stated Monogram, but so what....I love it. Great concept and well executed. I'm a real fan of modifying diecast models....especially ones that I find damaged and inexpensive at toy shows or on Ebay. My attitude is.. use whatever starting material that is going to give you the best results. Working with diecasts often takes more time and effort than with plastic, and the end product will likely outlast the plastic model.

David, that model is ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS!!! It truly looks real, and your detailing and finish is terrific.

Yes, I've been to Oswego a few times and you've nailed it......your model looks great..super build. It makes me want to head off to Oswego again this summer. Thanks for the pics.

This relatively simple model of a '40 Willys gasser was built around 1980 using the Revell Stone/Woods/Cook kit and modified to look like a typical basic B/Gasser of the early '60s. Modifications included typical details of that era....rear fender lip, '40 style grill opening, simplified interior, hood scoop (using injectors rather than blower), plumbing-pipe push bar, and some then popular amber tinted windows. My paint preference back then was automotive lacquer with pactra details and Letraset class number. Foil trim was cut from muffler-tape. Now-a-days, I'd have added a lot more detail, but thanks to a display case, it's stayed in good condition and I'm happy to have it as a page from my modelling past.

I considered putting this model into the "BigRig' Forum, but the vehicle just doesn't seem to fit that category....it's too compact. This early post-war Bedford OSBT truck model kit is made by EMHAR and, I think, builds into a cute, interesting looking small British dump truck. I've added hinges to both the engine hood (bonnet in 'Brit-speak) and the doors since although they're all molded as separate parts, they're intended to glue permanently in either open or closed position. I also fabricated the dumping hydraulic mechanism in polished aluminum tubing and styrene because it also is intended to be permanently glued in up or down position as manufactured by EMHAR. I did find the alignment of hood, fenders and grill shell to require a bit of tweaking to fit well, but part of that issue may have been exacerbated by my hinging mods to the hood. I used automotive basecoat/clearcoat on the cab, frame, and wheels, and then used only basecoat on the simulated wood dump body, and I added a touch of foil on the appropriate grill bars

This multi-media 1/12 model kit was never inexpensive, and they have become even more expensive now on Ebay, but it still is, in my opinion, one of the nicest model kits ever made.....everything is so well molded and detailed, that it's a shame that the body hides most of the frame and engine. I bought the kit many years ago in Chicago at one of the model kit shows (Old town escorts??) for just under $200...a lot of money way back then. Anyhow, it was an absolute pleasure to build and, although the plastic parts are nicely molded in color, I chose to paint everything for the added opacity and realism. The aluminum parts are intended to stay in the raw aluminum and seem to be anodized or coated to keep the surface from tarnishing over time. The soft tarp and cloth seatbelts look realistic and the steering as well as working suspension are beautifully done.

Actually, Harry, for whatever reason, I prefer vehicles to look 'FOB the factory'....I guess it's the '1/1 car restorer' in me coming out in my models. I don't even weather my military models or trains anymore.

That's an absurd price ($999.00)........I got mine when they were 'dumping' unsold kits quite a few years ago. It took a while to get motivated enough to tackle it though.

Here are a few detail shots of the engine, tilt lock, rear suspension etc.

At 1/8 scale, this truck model is HUGE! ...... The pics had to be taken on my living-room rug. I always find Pocher kits to be somewhat strange in that they're impressive and beautifully conceived, but usually only about 95% resolved, with a bunch of details that need to be modified to complete the models. I have the feeling that after months of development, someone in authority told the Pocher designers and molders that enough time had been spent...now get it out the door! The main unresolved (factory-rushed?) issues with this model included the inside sleeper bunk (needed complete refinishing to fit), and the rigid front fender leading mudflap that completely restricts the tilting of the cab to reveal the diesel engine detail. I solved that one by adding a miniature piano style hinge where the leading mudflap joins the front fender. Paint on this model is custom mixed automotive lacquer with Testors, Humbrol, and Tamiya small details. I built this model a while ago from a kit bought decades ago for $140 at the Toledo Toy show....the build was completed in a 4 1/2 day/night marathon with absolutely no sleep...I couldn't stop!. That's the only time in my life that I've been so compelled to complete a model in one continuous session....not a healthy plan. If memory serves, I believe there were well over a thousand parts (plastic,metal, and rubber) including zillions of tiny fasteners..... the door latches operate, side windows go up and down, suspension springs are individual leaves, and the steering is realistic. The finished model is protected by a custom made simple polycarbonate display case..... so large that it's difficult to carry through a doorway.

Protar makes some challenging but interesting multi-media kits of cars and motorcycles and, like many of the Italian kits that I've built over the years (Pocher,Revival,Protar, etc.), this racecar model required some tweaking of a few of the assemblies to complete the build. The kit includes a miriad of tiny fittings and fasteners etc., the zinc castings are quite well molded with through-hole louvres on many of the body panels, the cast wire wheels are amazingly fine, steering is quite realistic, the seat and engine wiring/plumbing is molded in soft vinyl, the steering wheel uses a cloth wrap, the hand brake operates the mechanical brake-lines, and the multi-disc friction shocks/leaf springs are beautifully detailed. I used automotive basecoat/clearcoat for most of the build and although it was a challenging model, I'm very pleased with the end result.

Yes, Harry, the steamer style trunk is included in the kit....the rack can fold down to carry it .