racedriver25

Nice build you got going there. One question where did you get the body? I have googled looking for a Capri body and I haven't had any luck.

Thank you for the info John.

Amazing craftsmanship. Amazing how much detail you pack into 1/25th scale. One question where or how did you letter the plug wires?

Yep still around , I live about 20 minutes away from that shop and go there on occasion... but it is mostly train stuff not too much in the way of plastic kits anymore.

This area is well known for a lot of racers in different categories of racing. Rte. 30 Dragway was a hot bed for drag racers back in the day: Bill Jenkins, Jere Stahl ( Stahl Headers), etc... And sprint car racing is huge here, the best in the business run and ran here. To add to the injection discussion I build sprint car motors and we still use mechanical fuel injection on these motors. Hilborn,Kinsler and Engler are the biggies now. Although Hilborn is not real popular anymore on the sprint cars. Tuning can be tricky but common sense usually helps. A weather station, and a good engine dyno are my preferred tools to get these things right. Mainly because if your a slight bit off...... with the compression we run in the 410 motors........ your melting some pistons. Many factors come in to tuning,main pill size,nozzle size, high speed pill size and pressure, secondary pill size and pressure,nozzle length and stack size and length. As stated short tubes tend to increase high rpm power at some low end torque expense, but they tend to make the engine more "driveable". Common practices now are to run a large diameter injection....say 2.9 to 3.0 and run reducer stacks like 2.13/16 or 2 11/16 on the 410's on smaller cube engines we run 2 1/2 or 2 5/8 with reducers as small as 2 3/16. Top end HP is not affected as much as you think doing this and by doing this the engine "squirts" of the corners and on restarts much quicker and smoother. One final thing which was touched on shorter tubes and bigger diameter generally means more top end power less torque, taller stacks more low end torque slightly less top end HP. Smaller diameter tubes tend to make more torque down low also. These are only generalizations because some engine combos can throw the normal out the window.

Small blocks ranged from 2-3/16, 2-7/16, 2-5/8. Big blocks were generally 2-11/16, 2-13/16 even some as big as 3". Those are inside diameters. The stacks were generally 1/16th to 1/8th thick.

I will be there. It will be my first NNL or contest of any kind that I have ever attended other then my model club meetings. I am only going on Saturday because of prior obligations but hoping to meet some of you, and seeing some cool models, and spending some money at the vendors tables.

Really digging the ole coach I remember watching those things every weekend.

Model Roundup has a ton.

F-1 engines have a 1" stroke that's why they turn the rpm's, they have minimal torque that's why they have so many gears to get into what little torque range they have to get off of the corner, and accelerate from a stand still and their torque range is very high in the rpm band. And I never said you didn't need horsepower but there is truth in torque wins races. I'd hate to see a sprint car motor with only 500 ft. lbs try to pull off a corner on a tacky track, it would barely be able to accelerate to its peak power rpm if at all.

That's a heck of a lot of talent there....very well done.

Umm actually torque is what accelerates the vehicle from a stand still or in the case of dirt or asphalt oval or road racing pulls you off the corner.

I am a one at a time builder. I remember always being told to finish what I start and for me anyways that means concentrating on one model at a time. Plenty of guys can build several at a time, but I'm not wired that way. I can definitely see where down time waiting for stuff to dry is eliminated but I generally will look for reference pics and so forth for projects I have planned.

Very nice....excellent decal work.

Very nice and clean.....exceptional model.